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Cat5e/Cat6/Cat6a - which?

  • 27-11-2023 4:47pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,364 ✭✭✭


    I've got to run some cabling in my house from the internet providers modem to the router in another room. I've got insufficient Cat5e (which is used throughout the house) to complete this in a single run without a splice - which would be in an inconvenient place anyway.

    Therefore, I'm going to purchase a new drum of cabling. So do I continue with Cat5e as per remainder of house or do I run Cat6 or Cat6ainstead as a means of keeping part of the network up to date.

    I have some other work planned which would required PoE end devices. which do I go for? I don't think that anywhere in the system I would have a cable run from router exceeding 50m.

    Does Cat6 and Cat6a terminate with same network connections as Cat5e - I'm almost 100% sure they do, but I do remember something about bend radius and some Cat6 (or was it Cat6a) being difficult to terminate into the connectors.


    TIA.



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,827 ✭✭✭✭astrofool


    You can go to cat6a (I always find the cost in cabling is in the work rather than the cable), connections are the same but you can get them certified for cat6a as well (you can always change them later), POE shouldn't be an issue. The bend radius is slightly less on Cat6A vs 6 and 5e but nothing that would make a difference in a domestic install, cable also a bit heavier and harder work to handle.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,364 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    I've got some connectors, but I don't know (presume not) if they are cat6a rated.

    Will the same tool join them?

    Presume copper core wire is better than CCA?



  • Registered Users Posts: 577 ✭✭✭Facthunt


    Following……

    I had been told by my provider to furture proof the house and use CAT6! It’s been in about 18 months and I’ve asked a few around even the cable provider if they could terminate it! The provider said they couldn’t and any electricians said they could only do CAT 5! I’m not tech savvy….. but is it that complicated and I am being taken for a ride!!!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,827 ✭✭✭✭astrofool


    I didn't even know they would do CCA in network cabling but I guess they do, avoid unless cost is a big issue.

    Bulk Network Cable (cablemonkey.ie)

    The same tools and connectors work they just won't be "cat6a rated" if you use cat6/5e connectors, but again, in a domestic install under 20m it's unlikely to make a big difference.

    Are you asking them to certify or just terminate? It's really not that hard and anyone who can do cat5 won't be able to make too much of a mess of cat6+ but most old school electricians won't do it too often, you may have more luck with someone more recently trained (I'm sure there's a few on here that would be scratching their head why they can only do cat5).



  • Registered Users Posts: 577 ✭✭✭Facthunt


    Terminate was the plan …. But wait you mention certificate 🤔 is that something else I need to worry about!



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,364 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,827 ✭✭✭✭astrofool


    No it's not (most commercial premises would test and certify the installation as part of the install process, it's not needed for domestic, the testing equipment alone is quite expensive). Domestic only needs a simple continuity tester: Connectix Pocket Socket Tester | Testers (cablemonkey.ie). If the electrician will only do "cat5" it means they probably haven't ever installed anything else or don't do it often (or don't know the difference).

    How NOT to splice network cables... : techsupportgore (reddit.com)



  • Registered Users Posts: 577 ✭✭✭Facthunt


    Any idea of what it would cost to terminate both ends. Cable in there! At one end it’s gone through wall coiled up … at the other end it’s coiled up outside!!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,827 ✭✭✭✭astrofool


    I'm unsure, I'd expect a tradesman (who knew what they were doing) to charge about 150-200 for the call-out and then depending on how long the job would take (i probably take about 3-4 mins per connection DIY but I'm probably slower than someone doing it for a living). It will also depend how you're terminating (just a simple connector on the end or into a patch panel or wall socket/euro module and if they need to be installed/bought as well).



  • Registered Users Posts: 577 ✭✭✭Facthunt


    it would be a wall socket of some sort! Not sure if a Patch Panel would look nice by the TV !

    If anyone can recommend an electrician I’ll get them to pop out and have a look!



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,946 ✭✭✭whizbang


    Biggest issue i see is folk crimping RJ45 connectors onto solid conductor structural cable. Most times it works, but can give very poor results, and cannot have any movement on the cable whatsoever.


    You will thank yourself later for using patch panels. They are very easy to connect yourself.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,364 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    In this instance it's a single run from the ONT to the router so crimping is the best choice.

    I could put a socket in the cupboard, but that is another potential point of failure, so I'm just going to bring the cable in through a brush plate an terminate it with a RJ45 connector.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,364 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    All done, but the connectors I've got aren't very good. No satisfying click when I plug them into the router.

    It seems to be prone to dropping the connection if it gets wiggled.

    Any recommendations for a decent connector for Cat6 cable?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,827 ✭✭✭✭astrofool


    Is it solid core or stranded? If solid core, connect them to cat6a euro modules.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,364 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    Solid copper core.



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