Immermat Replacement

mz3ns

I have an Immermat timerswitch on my boiler, the mechanical timer no longer works. Tired of waking up to a cold house in the morning. I have done my share of electrical, other DIY but it was all in Canada so everything is a bit different. House is a typical western Ireland semi-detatched from early 2000, and from what I can tell it is a system boiler that also heats the hot water cylinder in the hot press. House is a rental and our landlord won't fully replace it because they are 70 and feel on/off is good enough for them so it isn't an issue, and due to the defective block issue they won't put any money beyond the bare minimum into the house. We plan to move to a different rental or ideally buy in the future, but there is nothing on the market right now besides where we are.

My understanding is that the switch is a glorified on/off switch for the boiler. I had picked out something like an EPH R17 timeswitch from Screwfix to replace it, but before I ordered it I pulled the switch off the wall, and rather then two wires I was expecting to run to the boiler, I had 2 sets of each (see right side of wiring photo). I know I could just replicate the wiring on the new switch, but is there some unused functionality for zoning I could setup or does it power two separate items in the boiler that need to run at the same time?

tikka16751

One would need to see hot press and boiler set up but it’s unlikely it is zoned.

10-10-20

How many zone-valves do you actually have and do you have any thermostats on walls? Does the hot water cylinder come on automatically or is it dependent on having the rads heat up?

mz3ns

Thanks both.

From what I can tell, it is as simple as can be. No zone valves I can see either in the hot press or around the boiler. However the piping isn't visible for the boiler, it enters a covered enclosure right of the top and goes up into the ceiling.

Also no thermostats in the house, and not even thermostatic valves on the rads, just basic open/close ones.

My other option would be to switch to something like a hive with a remote thermostat and leave it in a different room and manually work on the valves of the rads to get them to a temperature I want in each room.

Picture of the front of the boiler, no real controls or system info on it, (white shiny thing on top is just a vase I moved temporarily):

10-10-20

Not sure why you have a pair coming out of the timer then, the boiler should only need one to trigger. You could try drop one of the lives and see does the boiler fire-up and maybe there is a zone valve somewhere for the cylinder...

The Mulk

Are the two cables definitely coming from the switched side, or could it be a loop feed for something else?

Is there an extra circulation pump anywhere in the house, i've seen this done previously.