Nitro r/c car owners

poache

Just looking around the various boards on the net and i noticed that there is very little irish nitro car owners out there so this is for any one interested in getting started in the nitro world....
I myself have a tamiya xbg rtr subaru that i imported from germany very very cheap ....
There was no import tax as i was within the EU and since it is euro ther was no currency rate....
Postage and package cost only 20euro for the complete box that was very heavy and large...
I will post the web site of the place in germany if any one wants it..
Any others out there with nitro cars will u please give us a post of how much you paid fpor yours and any other stuff about it..
Oh ya and i paid a complete 220euro for my car and p&p..

Standard Toaster

Will ye post up that German web site linky. Cheers

coolwings

poache wrote:

...I myself have a tamiya xbg rtr subaru that i imported from germany very very cheap ....
There was no import tax as i was within the EU and since it is euro ther was no currency rate....
Postage and package cost only 20euro for the complete box that was very heavy and large...... and i paid a complete 220euro for my car and p&p..

Hard to tell which spec it is from the pic ...
Is it this one ?
http://www.greenhobbymodel.com/CarsonCS.htm
from the Carson Tamiya importer in Ireland
sport engine, street tyres, muffler exhaust ...
or this ...
http://www.greenhobbymodel.com/CarsonCR.htm
with the race engine, slicks, tuned pipe, 2-speed gearbox & so on

Did you get just the car and radio for EUR240 ?
Or was the other bits included with it?

Pacifico

Currently have a Traxxas T-Maxx which i paid way too much for from www.ktmodels.co.uk :rolleyes:

The truck is class though

2 Espressi

I'd love to get a nitro kit, but I know nothing about two stroke engines, and I don't know where to ask.
the electrical stuff is fine and easy to pick up on yer own, but I'm apprehensive about getting a nitro kit, and fecking up the break in or carb settings fuel choice or some other techie bit, just because there's no -one to ask the newbie questions.
As you mentioned there isn't much happening on the nitor side of things, as people aren't prepared to pay €400 + for something they may never be able to run properly.

Axel if you don't mind me asking, how much did the tmaxx cost incl shipping? I reckon the next purchase will be off road (I'm after a basher not a racer) I'm thinking of either a tmaxx/revo or an electric kit I can convert for rockcrawling, like a clodbuster or an e-maxx...

[edit] can you post that link, poache?

poache

it's a tamiya xbg subaru 2003 (43511)....

A complete RTR built kit with radio and all electronics installed and is completely assembled out of the box..all it needed was a few AA batteries and some 16% nitro and it was of....I've had it a year since christmas and have run about 2 gallons through it when the recoil went and i just ordered one the other day..should be here in a week....
The web site i ordered it from is....www.mbs-modellbaushop.com
the online shop is in english and all.....came within a week...

Pacifico

2 Espressi wrote:

Axel if you don't mind me asking, how much did the tmaxx cost incl shipping? I reckon the next purchase will be off road (I'm after a basher not a racer) I'm thinking of either a tmaxx/revo or an electric kit I can convert for rockcrawling, like a clodbuster or an e-maxx...

Something like €600 Inc extra body, fuel tank and a fail safe :eek:

btw I dont really use it that much if you're looking for one i might sell it. I've a few more extras also

poache

Help...my recoil starter went about a few months ago and i ordered a new one as well as the one way bearing that goes inside it..on opening the packageing i carefully prevented the spring from unwinding and placed it on the rear of the engine..but as look would have it it won't screw flush to the backplat and when i tighten it to close the gap is way too tight to pull the string....and people have similair problems or remidies for the problem can you please help me..:mad: :eek: :mad:

SLIM19198

Try reversing the one way bearing, it only goes one way you know

coolwings

If you were sent the correct replacement part, it would fit just as well as the old one....
Sounds like you received a generic pullstart, of broadly the same size, but not exactly the same size. :mad:
When you tighten the bolts that last 2 turns, it locks up - right ?

There will be a "standard" modification that allows it to fit and work correctly ... assuming that this is actually the right pullstart.

This is where a local supplier can "shine" explaining it all over the counter and demonstrating it with the actual parts in front of you.
Call the seller, they should set you right probably with a simple routine, like adding spacer washers as necessary, or something similar.

coolwings

BTW
Why did you change the one-way bearing if it was the pullstart that broke ?

It takes a fair bit of use to wear that bearing down so it needs replacing you know. Though in that particular car it (the one-way bearing) does wear .

OTOH If the bearing is inserted the wrong way facing out the recoil start is totally locked tight, even when the bolts are loosened those last 2 turns ....
if that is the case, the previous advise is good, remove it and just turn it over.

poache

i'm certain that the one way is in the right way....the problem is that when a tighten all the screws the shaft is pushing the oneway against the spring unit inside the pull start...i'm also certain it's the right part i compared the old and new and they are exact....is it wise to take the recoil apart or will i just be wasteing my time tring to rewind the spring...

SLIM19198

You got any pics? cant get what you are saying!

coolwings

poache wrote:

i'm certain that the one way is in the right way....

Then the tightness problem is the recoil starter ... or the engine is seized.

poache wrote:

..the problem is that when a tighten all the screws the shaft is pushing the oneway against the spring unit inside the pull start...i'm also certain it's the right part i compared the old and new and they are exact....is it wise to take the recoil apart or will i just be wasteing my time tring to rewind the spring...

If the new part was identical to the old, you would have the same fit as before, I believe you are fooled that they are the same, when they are actually slightly different in size.

What you must do to check this : take the old starter unit and place it back to back with the new, so that the holes line up .... I bet you that there is not a true alignment ... and that there is in fact about 1.5mm out of true in the hole distances from each other, that is the wrong starter if this is the case.

I have seen it lots of times before, and the only cure is to modify the part or swop it for another exact replacement.

Did you telephone the supplier (long distance call ??) and ask that question to eliminate this as a possible cause?

I appreciate that the farther the distance to the seller the worse the after-sales advice and backup, but you now have to deduct these communication costs from the "better price" you originally were proud of getting on the car. It's not much use with a starter that won't work after all.

Or ask your pals for help if they are knowledgable on RC cars ....

First step : place those parts together and compare carefully. Width or depth may be 1.5mm different.

poache

the space between the circular unit the holds the wound up rope and the outer edge of the case is alot less than this picture of a proper one...What i think has happened is that the spring as popped out behind all this and pushed the circular rope unit out more...Some thing like this but not as messed up..the pring back effect still works and it seems o.k....is it wise to try and rewind the spring back into the case or is this out of the question.

coolwings

If the spring is not in it's recess it will bind tight when the pullstart is installed and that might account for your problems.

As long as the plastic spring retainers are still square edged, the spring can be rewound.

There in a knack to it ... if you haven't done it before, you will wish you had an extra hand
Good luck.

poache

thanks for the advice.....just in the last few minytes i have got my engine running...the problem is still there i have just temperarely fixed it....i removed the recoill unit and with my finger holding the circular string mechanism tightly back i started to slowely pull all the string out of the unit and slowely let it pull itself back in and after a few times the speing seemed to catch back into it's place and i snapped on the retaining clip and screwewd it back on to the engine...it's not recoiling all the string but when the engine fires it seemes to pull the remaining dtring back ....i just run a half a tang of 16% trough it now and it needs some final tuneing after another few tanks to break the engine in again..thanks for your advice but i'll thing i'll leave the rebuild of the recioil untill i really have too...

shane0312

I recently bought a hotbodies tornado car. Could anyone tell me if there is any clubs or tracks to race the car on the North side of Dublin because you can only go up and down the road so much.cheers

coolwings

St Annes park, Raheny

revo

story lads. i got myself a traxxas revo and my bro has a nitro 4tec looking for details on were everyone meets up etc, any irish web sites out there. let us know

shane0312

I have a hotbodies .18 car about 2 weeks and ive been using 16% nitro and its running grand.But the shop didnt have any more of it so I got Liquid gold 10% Nitro. Could anyone tell me whether or not this will damag my engine or will I just have to adjust the Carb. Cheers.

revo

hey mate i wouldnt go near a 10 percent nitro. 16 is the best. wouldnt downgrade just wait until its back in stock. were do u race your car?

coolwings

Fuel Makes...
Liquid Gold is a good fuel
Model technics is a good fuel
Percentage Nitro ...
10% nitro is easier on your engine than 16%
On 10% the engine will last longer than on 16%
But it won't accellerate quite so fast on 10 vs 16.

So don't have any worries, the car will be OK on 10% and there will be no damage from it. At least no damage that you weren't doing worse with the 16% you had before. You just won't win races against other equal quality drivers who have 16% in their engines with your 10%.

By the way, the Harolds Cross shop in Dublin had lots of 16% on Saturday (always have it). So there is no problem getting it.

NitroSTANG

can anyone tell me what wires, if any, go connected to the nitro engine?

NEWBIE HERE REMEMBER...im trying to make my electric Radio Control car into a nitro....I want to trow in a nitro engine on it....thanks

Ciaran_Dub

NitroStang, No wiring goes to a Nitro engine. There would be a lot of work involved to convert an electric to a nitro. It would be a nice project to do all the same. What car are you converting from? A good place to check out how a nitro car goes together is check out the HPI website. I know in the past they had PDF's of the manuals that came with their kit cars.

Ciaran

Plug

2 Espressi wrote:

I'd love to get a nitro kit, but I know nothing about two stroke engines, and I don't know where to ask.
the electrical stuff is fine and easy to pick up on yer own, but I'm apprehensive about getting a nitro kit, and fecking up the break in or carb settings fuel choice or some other techie bit, just because there's no -one to ask the newbie questions.
As you mentioned there isn't much happening on the nitor side of things, as people aren't prepared to pay €400 + for something they may never be able to run properly.

Axel if you don't mind me asking, how much did the tmaxx cost incl shipping? I reckon the next purchase will be off road (I'm after a basher not a racer) I'm thinking of either a tmaxx/revo or an electric kit I can convert for rockcrawling, like a clodbuster or an e-maxx...

[edit] can you post that link, poache?

I got T-maxx for €450 with everything required to get it up and running and some extras except fuel. I got it from www.towerhobbies.com. That €450 includes €50 shipping and €90 vat. They wont ship fuel. It arrived in 28 days exactly.

Darren______Kilkenny

dexter27

hey everyone!

could some one tell me why my engines revs. but the wheels dont spin!! thanks a lot

Plug

dexter27 wrote:

hey everyone!

could some one tell me why my engines revs. but the wheels dont spin!! thanks a lot

Your spur gear could be stripped caused by a very tight adjustment on your slipper clutch. If it has reverse try moving the shift servo back and forth until a gear is selected.

dexter27

sorry but i dont know what or where is the slipper clutch or spur gear??!!

could u post a pic or describe where it is and how it looks like?
thanks!

coolwings

dexter27 wrote:

sorry but i dont know what or where is the slipper clutch or spur gear??!!

could u post a pic or describe where it is and how it looks like?
thanks!

Just bring it in and ask the shop you bought it from to give you the quick runaround the model, and you will understand it all in a few minutes.
It is quite easy once someone shows you, but pretty complex to explain in written instructions.
All shops I know show their customers how to use it for free...

dexter27

ok... thanks

ill do that