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how to repair rough running on any car

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  • 25-04-2005 12:56pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 6,031 ✭✭✭


    i have done this on 2 cars that suffered the above. cars were a mk iv golf and toyota corolla .symptoms are a jerk when u release the accelerator suddenly etc, loss of power

    go to halfords and buy 'carb and fuel injection cleaner' its in an aerosol can. take off the air filter, and ul see the throttle butterfly. while revving the car spray it in bursts of 5 or 10 seconds. note all the smoke coming out of the exaust,this is the oil and dirt thats sitting on the maf sensor and the butterfly. spray 3/4 of the can in if the symptoms were bad (they were in my case)

    now reassemble replacing with a new air filter and go drive. note how ur car drives like new again. absolutely amazing difference, i recommend everyone with 50000 +miles to do it.
    The golf is particularly sensitive because the blow by gases vent pre throttle body and there is no oil seperator on it. the oil tends to cover the whole mechanism and everything in it-bad design

    the corolla on the other hand vents after the throttle body into the intake manifold but still spraying the stuff in makes a big difference.
    on the Golf its a HUGH diference


Comments

  • Moderators, Regional North West Moderators Posts: 19,121 Mod ✭✭✭✭byte
    byte


    You can buy stuff in cans that you pour into a full tank of petrol (STP for one). These claim to clean out your car's "bits"! :) Would this have a similar result or would the spray produce better results?


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,031 ✭✭✭lomb


    byte wrote:
    You can buy stuff in cans that you pour into a full tank of petrol (STP for one). These claim to clean out your car's "bits"! :) Would this have a similar result or would the spray produce better results?

    they wouldnt do a thing tbh i have tried them. u are better running a tank of shell pura thru to clean the fuel system .besides on fuel injected cars the fuel is delivered via the fuel rails to the cylinders bypassing the throttle body and manifold where the problem arises in the first place. nothing can clean the air aintake system except a grease stripper sprayed into the running engines air intake. and the air intake system including delicate sensors like the throttle position sensor, air temp sensors and maf sensors are all here and are bound to be covered in dust and dirt if not frank oil and grease from the dirty crankcase oily gases that vent here and dirty air that passes the air filter.fuel rails on the other hand are cleaned automatically by petrol which is a solvent and the detergents in petrol so stp is a waste of money and there is no way the concentration will be high enough to clean anything anyway. so for air intake cleaning use the stuff halfords do just turns oil into water. it absolutely eats it with no rubbing, it left the metal a shiny shiny silver with no rubbing from absolute greasy oily black. well worth 7 euro, i think daveg on boards paid 300 euro for the same job. u really do need to use at least half a can in bursts on it, so u have enough for two cars.


  • Registered Users Posts: 651 ✭✭✭sirlinux


    Most motor factors have this as well as halfords, it's the business especially on city driven cars they seem to get filthy much quicker.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 88,978 ✭✭✭✭mike65


    Carb cleaner is great and STP is of dubious valve I think. If you want to do a proper job on the air intake/throtle body area then you need to open up the butterfly and clean it and the port it sits in. I used carb cleaner with some paper towel and a toothbrush. Then I sucked out whatever bits of sooty grit came loose with a vacum cleaner. Made a huge diference.

    Mike.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 738 ✭✭✭gaui3d0pnbz86o


    must give it a go myself


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,031 ✭✭✭lomb


    mike65 wrote:
    Carb cleaner is great and STP is of dubious valve I think. If you want to do a proper job on the air intake/throtle body area then you need to open up the butterfly and clean it and the port it sits in. I used carb cleaner with some paper towel and a toothbrush. Then I sucked out whatever bits of sooty grit came loose with a vacum cleaner. Made a huge diference.

    Mike.


    id be cautious of rubbing anything in there with a toothbrush, a sensor could get damaged. a small possibility but its still there although ur job would be more thorough, still the spraying the stuff in if u spray enough of it does an excellent job and is safe as it evaporates rapidly so wont damage any sensors if sprayed in small amounts. also i have heard of people damaging mafs by rubbing them, but its safe to spray them in short bursts according to the guys at uk-mkivs.net
    the stuff i used was wynness carb and fuel injection cleaner in a large aerosol can.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,175 ✭✭✭Ratchet


    lomb wrote:
    id be cautious of rubbing anything in there with a toothbrush, .......

    yep , e.g. maf on micra could be killed instant


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 88,978 ✭✭✭✭mike65


    My car does'nt have a "hot wire" sensor. It uses a flap as part of a semi mechanical set up (bosch KE 3 jetronic).

    Mike.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,175 ✭✭✭Ratchet


    not everybody drives a beemer


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 88,978 ✭✭✭✭mike65


    True enough..I dont either. :)

    Mike.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,175 ✭✭✭Ratchet


    :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 92 ✭✭Auslander


    Watch out when using carb cleaner
    I know that its possible to damage the catalytic converter.
    I was always told to clean the venturi/body with the engine off.
    What does it say on the side of the can of cleaner?


  • Moderators, Arts Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 10,676 Mod ✭✭✭✭Hellrazer


    Anyone remember Redex--I used to have an old battered 86 fiesta that was running crap and was told by somone to pour a quarter of a can down the plug ports and leave for a MAXIMUM of 10 minutes only.Of course the phone rang,I sat yapping away to a mate for over an hour,went out,put the plugs back in and started the car.

    Im not joking,you couldnt see across the road with the white smoke that came out of the exhaust.

    Deciding to drive up the M50 to try and clear it and left like one of those smoke trails that you see in spy movies behind me.Funny as f**k.

    Car ran about a million times better after that.Obviously cleaned all the burnt on oil off the pistons,cylinders aswell as the carb.

    On a more serious note some manufacturers actually recommend some of these products.And they do work.

    Also if anyone drives an Accent :eek: and are told they need a Air flow sensor(which I sell roughly 3 per week of) all you need to do is take the sensor off,spray carb cleaner on the little "tonsil" like protusion and you`ll keep the car going for years without it costing you €250+ for replacement of the sensor.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,031 ✭✭✭lomb


    Auslander wrote:
    Watch out when using carb cleaner
    I know that its possible to damage the catalytic converter.
    I was always told to clean the venturi/body with the engine off.
    What does it say on the side of the can of cleaner?

    it says safe for use on oxygen sensors, but u are right the burnt oil might overheat the cat, prob best to do it on a cold cat/engine?


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,031 ✭✭✭lomb


    Hellrazer wrote:

    Also if anyone drives an Accent :eek: and are told they need a Air flow sensor(which I sell roughly 3 per week of) all you need to do is take the sensor off,spray carb cleaner on the little "tonsil" like protusion and you`ll keep the car going for years without it costing you €250+ for replacement of the sensor.

    can i ask where the air flow sensor is on the accent, is it on the throttle body, in the manifold after the throttle body or is it in the airbox before the throttle body? does the blow by gas vent pre throttle body ans pre airflow sensor? if it does there is ur answer for why the problem arises


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