Plasterboard Problems

kaiphas

Hi,

I bought a bungalow nearly four years ago. The problem is the plasterboard walls are starting to bulge where the nail heads are (ie they nails are about to break through the plasterboard).

Is this common?

The ones in the bathroom are actually causing a brown rust mark on the paint.

I know I can clear them out, polly-filla and re-paint but should this be happening literally all over the house?

Anybody encountered this type of prob before

YAPP

1. clear area.
2. rattle plasterboar at nail points that look dubious
3. remove nails and replace with screws
4. cover over with pollyfiller, sand down & paint room.

I dont know why people are still using slab nails these days when
screws and screw cartridges are so easily available!!
always use screws where possible

YAPP

FX Meister

Perhaps the batton holding the slabs to the wall have come loose?

rooferPete

The normal slab nail is galvanised to protect it from rusting, perhaps the nails weren't galvanised ?

Plaster can be very corrosive, I have seen where people used screws thinking they they were the best job but they used standard "Spax's" not plaster board screws.

The plaster popping at the nail heads is not unusual sometimes caused by a skim coat that's too heavy or nails that didn't get a proper bite.

FX has a very good point, I have seen laths held in place by as little as two masonary nails with very poor grip if any.

What may have happened is 2" x 3/4" timbers were used with 3/8"th slabs and the slab nails were too long and actually pushed the laths off the wall.

Yes I have seen that too

kaiphas

Thanks for all your help. Much appreciated. Is this a matter I should take up with Homebond (I also have loose roof tiles and a gutter that leaks at nearly every joint) or do I chalk it down to experience, bit the bullet and fix it all up myself.

Again - I really appreciate your helpful replies.

Cheers

Borzoi

kaiphas wrote:

Thanks for all your help. Much appreciated. Is this a matter I should take up with Homebond

I think they'd laugh you out of it. A certain amount of popping is inevitable - slabs nails are galvanised, but there's sometimes a weekspot on the coating, so they pop.

I use a slightly different treatment ot Yapp though:
Remove the loose plaster, but leave the nail, touch up the area using an oil based undercoat, then fill, sand and paint. Never had to come to any that way

tapest

"
What may have happened is 2" x 3/4" timbers were used with 3/8"th slabs and the slab nails were too long and actually pushed the laths off the wall."

Nice one Roofer pete, I hadn't thought of that.I job, we got an extention built. At all the joins(not joints) with the older building, Vertical cracks are seen...They did not use reinforcing mesh. All, yes every one, of the slab nails are exposed through the plasterwork, 'cause they simple plastered over them. An extra light tap mof the hammer to indent the plasterboard at these points and a special filler ( I can never remember the name, you know the stuff, snow white, mix an egg cup full at a time , it goes off so fast) should have been used before plastering. Also used over 4" paperlike tape when plasterboard sides have 2" rebate along sides. Just the width of the trowel.
God ,it's boddering me now....Come on pete , what's it called???
t

rooferPete

Hi tapest,

I do believe you are describing.................Joint filler

Scrim is usually used when skimming ceilings (mesh) not so much on walls as they don't have the gravity problem or the movement in the floor or ceiling joists.

Tape and joint for dry lining is usually seperate to skimming because the skim coat and the joint filler are not the best of friends.

If the Gypsum or Lafarge joint filler is used immediatly before a skim coat the skim coat will set faster everywhere it comes into contact with the joint filler.

There is a new version of the joint filler available, it comes in tubs pre-mixed and has a slower setting time, ideal for filling joints that have to be raked out, just put the lid back on each time your finished it has a great shelf life.

Kaiphas,

I can't afford to post my opinion of Homebond on the internet, needless to say it is not in the positive.

Roof coverings (tiles) are not covered although they are the prime waterproofer of the building they are not classed as structural, if your roof truss breaks that is structural, just hope you never have to try claiming.

Plaster slabs are decorative finishes so not covered, if the foundations subside or the walls start to fall they are structural defects.

nuff said

tapest

rooferPete wrote:

Hi tapest,

I do believe you are describing.................Joint filler

Scrim is usually used when skimming ceilings (mesh) not so much on walls as they don't have the gravity problem or the movement in the floor or ceiling joists.

Tape and joint for dry lining is usually seperate to skimming because the skim coat and the joint filler are not the best of friends.

If the Gypsum or Lafarge joint filler is used immediatly before a skim coat the skim coat will set faster everywhere it comes into contact with the joint filler.

There is a new version of the joint filler available, it comes in tubs pre-mixed and has a slower setting time, ideal for filling joints that have to be raked out, just put the lid back on each time your finished it has a great shelf life.

Kaiphas,

I can't afford to post my opinion of Homebond on the internet, needless to say it is not in the positive.

Roof coverings (tiles) are not covered although they are the prime waterproofer of the building they are not classed as structural, if your roof truss breaks that is structural, just hope you never have to try claiming.

Plaster slabs are decorative finishes so not covered, if the foundations subside or the walls start to fall they are structural defects.

nuff said

Hehe As usual a wealth of information...so long as your not selling it...lol