Warped Brake Discs

Gryzor

after i had the cv joints done on the car....i was left with a knackered bearing and warped break discs (vibration through the steering wheel under breaking).....i had all the repairs done (new bearing and new discs)...thought all was ok, but after about 3 weeks the vibration under breaking is back.....brought it back to the same mechanic and he rekons that one of the new discs is warped..

just wondering is there anything else they could have damaged in there when they were changing the cv joints that would be causing the discs to warp

they basically told me they had to heat the hubs and hammer the ****e out of the car to get the old joints out...

De Hipster

If it's a warped disc it should be feeding back through the pedal under breaking.

If it a bush in the steering rack it will be feeding back through the steering wheel only.

Gryzor

De Hipster wrote:

If it's a warped disc it should be feeding back through the pedal under breaking.

If it a bush in the steering rack it will be feeding back through the steering wheel only.

it only feeds back through the steering wheel.....think a disc will cause that aswell though

DukeDredd

I know in the situation where you have to brake hard and after the car is stopped you don't release the brake pedal it can cause the disc to warp. Probably to do with heat but i'm not sure...

De Hipster

Gryzor wrote:

it only feeds back through the steering wheel.....think a disc will cause that aswell though

ye should feel it in the pedal if it's the disc afaik...I did.

AMurphy

Gryzor wrote:

.....brought it back to the same mechanic and he rekons that one of the new discs is warped..

just wondering is there anything else they could have damaged in there when they were changing the cv joints that would be causing the discs to warp

they basically told me they had to heat the hubs and hammer the ****e out of the car to get the old joints out...

There are ways of doing things and ways of doing things.

What sort of a car/suspension are we talking about and what size of hammer and force.

It does not make sense to hammer the hell out of a wheel hub (on the car) to remove the shafts, etc. because you are also hammering the hell out of the suspension mounts, struts, steering rack and joints, strup top bearings, etc.
So where was the item when heated and hammered... on a press or bench I hope.
If a press is available hammering is not necessary.
Apart from hammering, there is the heat. If done ont he car, some will transfer to the first steering joint, where it may dry out the grease and generally play hell with any plastic or rubber bits in the joint.

On reassembly, if it were that rusted, were the parts completely free of rust on re-assembly, cause any trapped rust could brake apart, allow the hub to loosen and split the bearing apart when driving, that would cause more than a wobble.
Ask questions like, is the hub nut self locking or castelation and pin type. If self locking, was a new one used, it should have been. If castellation and pin type, at least a new pin shoud have been used.

So check back through the details of what was done where, where the item was when heated.