Help with Mustang

corelon

I got a 66 mustang, nearly a month ago now, I have noticed an over heating issue. Which I have narrowed down to 2-3 possibilities. Firstly there is no Fan Shroud. It only over heats when in traffic, so advice I have found on the net suggest this Fan Shroud will solve this issue. 2ndly there is a very small leak from the radiator, I doubt this is it but something I should address, i'm sure.. Someone advised me to buy (cant rem the name) something I put into the radiator as liquid and that it will fill the hole after harding.. My issue with that is could that substance continue into the engine or does anyone think its a bad/good idea.3rdly and again I doubt this is it.. but maybe the thermometer is broken.. (can't find the bloody thing though)
Any suggestion would be great.
Thanks D

MercMad

Well since the summer season is here and you will undoubtedly want to use your car regularly I would suggest that you fix ALL of the problems !

Firstly....why do you suspect it is overheating, what does the gauge read ?

Second, if it should have a fan shroud then yes get one, either way if it was designed to have it then it should !

Thirdly, pouring Radweld may or may not fix the leak but its really only a temporary solution, though I have had good luck with it before. You can purchase it in any filling station.

Finally, the sender unit for the gauge is normally screwed into the cylinder head and may have just one small wire attached. It is normally up high but someone else may confirm exactly where on a Mustang. You can easily test the temperature of the water with a regular thermometer or get a garage to do this for you !

Enjoy !

corelon

Thanks for the reply.

Gauge reads 3/4 when I'm on a good run.. but once it sits in traffic it reads too close to H for my liking.. virtually touching H actually.. Scares the life out of me.

Is there an issue with using Radweld,someone mentioned it might get into the engine.. but I thought it wouldn't myself..

Thanks D

gs39t

Check out the fordsix forums http://www.fordsix.com/ -they'll sort you out on any tech issue your having. I'm not sure about the temp guage, my 68 is a V8 hence all different. I've a 6cyl 'stang engine but cant get to it to look at it im afraid, so dont know myself

BrianD3

Surely the gauge should not read "3/4" on a good run? I would have thought it should read 1/2 way up or maybe a bit below. Maybe your gauge is faulty? If the gauge is correct, maybe the car is actually overheating slightly on a run in which case it's likely to be a problem with the cooling system rather than with the fan or shroud.

As for the leak - I wouldn't be on for using radweld type products in a cherished car like an old mustang. Maybe look into getting the rad reconditioned, there are places that do this sort of thing. If you do decide to use a radweld product, the product "Barrs Leak" is reputed to be better than Radweld itself.

gs39t

Come to think of it, i have a 6 cyl radiator - if you want it, PM me

ds20prefecture

corelon wrote:

I got a 66 mustang, nearly a month ago now, I have noticed an over heating issue. Which I have narrowed down to 2-3 possibilities. Firstly there is no Fan Shroud. It only over heats when in traffic, so advice I have found on the net suggest this Fan Shroud will solve this issue. 2ndly there is a very small leak from the radiator, I doubt this is it but something I should address, i'm sure.. Someone advised me to buy (cant rem the name) something I put into the radiator as liquid and that it will fill the hole after harding.. My issue with that is could that substance continue into the engine or does anyone think its a bad/good idea.3rdly and again I doubt this is it.. but maybe the thermometer is broken.. (can't find the bloody thing though)
Any suggestion would be great.
Thanks D

Bear in mind that traffic jams were not a big issue in 1966 - even with a shroud, your doing nowt but sucking hot air from the car in front. I imagine your fan is driven off the crankshaft, and thus it's effectiveness is relative to the engine speed. (This is also the case in my DS). Believe it or not keeping a slight rev on can help when things get too hot. If your car should have a shroud, you definitely need it - makes a huge difference on mine. If you spend most of your time in traffic and aren't too pushed about originality, you might consider fitting a thermostatically controlled electric fan - consult Mustang newsgroups or other owners. (try yahoogroups.com for Mustang newsgroups)

You should get the rad pressure tested and overhauled. There's lots of places in Dublin that do this, but strangely I can't think of one. Check the yellow pages or ask your local mechanic. This is not expensive work unless it needs to be recored. If you have a leak you really need to check your coolant level every time you drive. It's very bad for an engine to run with insufficient cooling.

Check that the cap on the radiator is of the correct pressure rating - you should find that in your service manual or the newsgroups.

It doesn't sound like your thermostat is gone, as you would see overheating regardless of driving style if it failed closed, or very slow warmup times if it failed open.

Don't obsess too much about a guage reading - the guage is as old and prone to failure/miscalibration as anything else in a 40yo car. Is the car actually boiling over?

The radweld stuff should not harm your engine unless you already have buildup of deposits in your water channels. This would be quite likely in a 40yo car, so personally I wouldn't use it.

Is your timing OK? If the timing is too far advanced, the car can run hotter than it should at idle.

Lastly, if you're worried and need a quick fix set your heating to full and turn on the fan - this basically brings a small secondary radiator into play on your coolant.

Hope this helps.

corelon

Heh thanks so much for the replies and all the really helpful info.Timing is something that popped up in other american forums. I didn't get a manual with the car.. which is something I'm trying to get from Haynes, or down in halfords in Blanch..I have no idea how to check the timing I am sure I can find the timings on the web but how to fix this is something else.. I have really thrown myself into the deepend here, but thats the way i am anyway.
reving has actually helped a bit in the past.. I tried it one day and it seemed to help a bit.
Thanks D

Dades

corelon wrote:

reving has actually helped a bit in the past.. I tried it one day and it seemed to help a bit.

I'd say it didn't help the guy in front though...

I have a manual switch on my (non-mustang) dash, with which I can flick on the fan manually if think the car is overheating.

That might be simpler again than fitting another thermostat control.

G'luck!

kyote00

Probably not much help to you but...

I'd think its worth plugging the whole in the rad as its usually pressurised and a weak might effect that....(for example, putting the wrong rad cap on has interesting effect ;-))

Also worth checking the timing as it can also cause overheating.

The grade of coolant used can also have an impact. I find that replacing with a stronger coolant mixture can cause the car not to heat up as quickly.....this may not be great idea as if you have automatic choke or fuel injection then the car will probably run rich....

Usually the temp guage after the car has warmed up and is on a run should be around the middle....might creap up in traffic but should go back down once the fan kicks in....

ds20prefecture

corelon wrote:

Heh thanks so much for the replies and all the really helpful info.Timing is something that popped up in other american forums. I didn't get a manual with the car.. which is something I'm trying to get from Haynes, or down in halfords in Blanch..I have no idea how to check the timing I am sure I can find the timings on the web but how to fix this is something else.. I have really thrown myself into the deepend here, but thats the way i am anyway.

http://www.classicjunkyard.com/manuals/1966_Mustang.html

50 bucks looks a bit extortionate. Join the most popular discussion forum on mustangs you can and ask about manuals. I am blessed that some guys on the DS forum on Yahoo scanned all 1800 pages of Citroën's fabulous service manuals for the DS, indexed them, and made them freely available for download.

Joining http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/restomod-mustang/ looks like a good start.

Checking the timing is something you need the manuals for. Timing is making sure that the spark plugs fire at the correct point in the compression cycle of the engine - on my DS this is 12 degrees before Top Dead Centre (TDC). By rotating your distributor a little you can advance or retard the timing. Some cars have methods of statically timing - you should find out how that is done on a Mustang.

For example, my DS has a 6mm hole in the flywheel and a hand crank - I can turn the engine very slowly until a 6mm allen key drops into the fly wheel. At this point, the number 1 cylinder is TDC, meaning the piston is at the uppermost reach of it's travel on the firing cycle. There's a timing scale in front of the main pulley. I mark 12 degrees before TDC on the pulley using tippex. The I use a strobe light clamped to the number 1 spark plug lead - this light strobes when the spark fires. I shine the light on the pulley and rotate the distributor with the engine running until the strobe co-incides with the timing mark.

For all cars, you can set the timing by ear, but it is a little more imprecise, and takes a lot more time. To do this, find a long straight with a steep hill. The N11 has a couple. Put the car in top and drive up the hill at around 50 or 60. The engine should be labouring (it certainly does in my 2.0 DS!). If you hear a "pinking" noise from the engine, your car is a too far advanced. Retard the ignition by rotating the distributor in the opposite direction of flywheel rotation. Do this only a little and try again. The perfect timing point is where the engine would pink if advanced even a little. Note that you may need to go the opposite way - if there's no pinking, advance a little until there is, then back it off a tad.

You might have to adjust your idle speeds after adjusting your timing. This is done on the carb, and you should know how to do this before messing with the timing.

If this all sounds a bit too far over your head, don't despair - 2 years ago I knew absolutely nothing about how engines worked. I'm still a rank amateur, but I'm comfortable enough to give things a lash. The manuals and discussion groups about my car helped enormously in this respect. Also, find someone local with a mustang who's willing to show you the ropes - it might cost you a pint or 6, but you'll learn more in a weekend hands-on than you would in a month reading manuals or the web.

You should shop online for your auto manuals rather than going to Halfords - there's 44000 hits in google by typing in 1966 Mustang Service Manuals.

You're right to throw yourself in at the deepend - I faffed around unsurely for far too long with mine. Just arm youself with enough knowledge/friends and you won't go wrong.

If you want - I'd be happy to bring you through the little that I know - it should only take an hour or so All it would cost is a spin in the Mustang. Where are you based?

Good Luck!

camarobill

most old v8 v6 will heat up when stoped in traffic theres a clutch on the fan which means it will only turn at full speed when reved up/if ur not sure what ur looking at,it wouldent be a bad idea to get a service done,theres also a small hole at the bottom of the water pump which lets water out when the seals or bearings go inside the pump.the water can then make its way down the rubber pipe onto the radiater,and makeing it look like the radiater is to blame theres a good guy if ur stuck near mondello who works on old engines,call fran at 0876249095 if u nead help :rolleyes:

MercMad

The guys here have given very good advice so far. I would stick to the basics for now though and as said above if you see the gauge heading up then raising you idling speed to about 1500-2000 RPM whilst in traffic WILL help. I sometimes do this on my SL, just to be on the safe side, and my cooling system is perfect !

You should check to see whether this car has a viscous fan clutch though as standard. Basically these are a finned type arrangement between the driven pulley and the fan blades. It should be free to spin when cold but after the car warms up, you switch the engine off and the fan should be very stiff to move, meaning it has thermostatically locked up correctly. This could be all OTT so the Mustang forums would prolly e the best source of accurate info !

corelon

Thanks again, everyone. My first step will be to find that bloody thermometer. I have a new one in the boot, which came with the car so it might be there for a reason. I'll see how that goes, as I know it was NCT'd a month before I got it (and I have proof of this). But failing that working I will start going through all your suggestions guys.Its great to see everyone being so helpful.
A friend suggested it should be close to the end of the top hose coming from the radiator.So i'll have a look when I get home.On the off chance, does anyone know of a place which would sell a cover for this mustang.. I know they do it in the uk but Ireland would be faster and better.
thanks again all.
D

ds20prefecture

corelon wrote:

A friend suggested it should be close to the end of the top hose coming from the radiator.So i'll have a look when I get home.

That's where the thermostat is in my DS.

On the off chance, does anyone know of a place which would sell a cover for this mustang.. I know they do it in the uk but Ireland would be faster and better.

I can recommend www.covercraft-europe.com. I use their Weathershield cover as they had a pattern for the DS. It's very good, with no scuffing of paint, good security from wind an excellent waterproofedness & breathability. It also folds to about the size of a t-shirt. It is mad money, but cheaper and more portable than a garage

AMurphy

What engine do you have in it and plugging of the cores in old radiators is common.
So either with your hand or an IR theremomenter test all over the rad to see it is pretty uniform in temp. A cold spot indicates a plugged core or two.

It is not impossible for the gap between the fan and rad to be incorrect and/or too great, hence only cooling when moving. And you do have a missing shroud problem, which is no help either.