22wmr zeroing

Umiq88

I'm going to zero in my rifle at the weekend just wondering if you could help my a bit most of it can be learned from trial and error heres a pic which pretty much explains what i need to know .

Basically i want to know when the bullet comes into the line of the scope and when it leaves and the distance it goes up in between and the distance it will drop at 150yards

Umiq88

Will this work on the rifle above

.22 SILENCERS

MRSILBK SILENCER BLACK
With standard uniform thread, this silencer can be used on all threaded Marlins and other makes of rifle. Alloy construction and alloy baffles make this a very effective moderator and it is easy to clean. Finished in black
Normal Delivery 2-3 Days
21 in stock (Last Updated 19/05/2005 11:19:14)



For anyone looking for one its from http://www.deben.com just go to gun accessories in the menu and select .22 silencers

civdef

http://www.huntingnut.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=3

Try this out.


As for the moderator, is your rifle threaded? They don't come like that from the factory. That's also a .22lr can, mightn't make too muc difference to a .22wmr's noise, and mightn't hold up too well.

Umiq88

i can get the barrel treaded its the silencer im trying to sort out can anyone else tell me if it will work or recommend a website that will sell a .22 wmr one

macnas

Is it possible to get subsonics in .22 magnum????

Rovi

psittacosis wrote:

I'm going to zero in my rifle at the weekend just wondering if you could help my a bit most of it can be learned from trial and error heres a pic which pretty much explains what i need to know.

Basically i want to know when the bullet comes into the line of the scope and when it leaves and the distance it goes up in between and the distance it will drop at 150yards

Nothing beats doing your own experiments, with your own gun, using the ammo you'll be using in the field.

That said, I plugged some 'basic' data into Shoot 3.0 (assuming your sight is 2 inches above the bore) and came up with this-
1st zero- 40 yards
Mid-range- 60 yards (+0.4 inches high)
True zero- 90 yards
Drop at 150 yards- -5.25 inches

Changing the sight height to 1.5 inches gives this-
1st zero- 30 yards
Mid-range- 60 yards (+0.6 inches high)
True zero- 90 yards
Drop at 150 yards- -5.5 inches

As you can see, sight height has a fair bit of effect on 1st zero and some effect on mid-range and 150 yards. They're all well within my margin of error for holding a rifle in the field though, so I wouldn't worry about them too much
I also did a lot of guessing at barrel length, rifling twist, bullet type, and a bunch of other stuff.


I'd suggest you zero it at your 90 yards, and then do some shooting at other ranges to see how much hold over/under you need.
If I was shooting this gun, I'd hold dead on out to about 110/120 yards (2 inches drop), and start holding over out from there. Call it 6 inches at 150, about the height of a crouching adult rabbit and half the height if he's standing up.


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Umiq88

im guessing most of the stuff ill be shooting will be at 80 yards i guess ill just have to shoot off alot of ammo to get it right any tips on how to zero it accuratley ive been told to just shoot it off my sholder to get the best result and to zero it in at a close distance and then at the distance i want also that the easiest way to shoot is to line up the vertical line and come up along the target till the horizontal line comes up to it then squeeze the trigger apparently it keeps it steady although for zeroing ill make sure i have a good rest

jaycee

psittacosis wrote:

I'm going to zero in my rifle at the weekend just wondering if you could help my a bit most of it can be learned from trial and error heres a pic which pretty much explains what i need to know .

Basically i want to know when the bullet comes into the line of the scope and when it leaves and the distance it goes up in between and the distance it will drop at 150yards

Just a note on the diagram ...

It shows a bullet rising as it leaves the barrel ..
this dosent happen and can confuse people.

Bullets only drop on leaving the barrel .. they dont rise.
They appear to rise because the line of sight of the scope is inclined downwards ,and initially the bullet intersects the line of sight giving the impression that the bullet has risen.

When we zero a scope ..we adjust it so that the point of aim coincides
with the point of impact of the bullet .. which is the second time that the bullet intersects our line of sight.

Rovi

psittacosis wrote:

im guessing most of the stuff ill be shooting will be at 80 yards i guess ill just have to shoot off alot of ammo to get it right any tips on how to zero it accuratley ive been told to just shoot it off my sholder to get the best result and to zero it in at a close distance and then at the distance i want also that the easiest way to shoot is to line up the vertical line and come up along the target till the horizontal line comes up to it then squeeze the trigger apparently it keeps it steady although for zeroing ill make sure i have a good rest

Depends on your definition of 'a lot.'
A box of 50 should be plenty to get things set up, and shooting your gun is part of the fun anyway

Don't try zeroing your scope offhand ('off the shoulder') unless you're an Olympic champion shooter, but don't clamp it in a vise either!

Set yourself up with a rudimentary benchrest or go 'prone' (lying down), with the gun supported on a bipod or bag. A bag of dog food makes a wonderful impromptu 'front bag.'

If you can haul on old kitchen table or something similar out to your 'range' you'll be well set up. Be careful though if you use the roof/bonnet of a car as a bench as it's pretty easy to make it move on the suspension, making things harder to get right.

Set up a target at 25-30 yards. A sheet of newspaper with a sticker or blob of paint on it stapled to a pallet is a good size to start off with, as it'll be hard to miss unless the scope is drastically misaligned.

Support the rifle on the bag similarly to how it will be supported in the field- rest the fore end (not the barrel!) snugly on the bag and the stock to your shoulder. Use you left hand (I'm assuming you're right-handed here ) to manipulate the stock at your shoulder. Be careful not to let the gun come in hard contact with the bench (keep your 'non-trigger' hand under the stock), as that will make it recoil unpredictably.
Get yourself reeeeaaaaaal comfy behind the rifle, line up the target in the sight, and squeeze off a shot.
Have a look at the target and see where the hole is. Adjust your scope to 'walk' the hole unto the target, firing a shot and checking after each adjustment.
Remember that the adjusters on the scope refer to the 'fall of shot.' If the hole is high and to the right, adjust down and to the left.

Once you've got the fall of shot onto the bullseye, move the target out to your 'zero' range, 90 yards in your case IIRC. Put up a fresh target
Fire a few test shots, and see where they land. Adjust scope as above. Remember that the hole will move much further for each 'click' of the adjuster at this range.

Fire a few groups of 3-5 shots to confirm your zero, making minor adjustments as necessary.

Move your target to various ranges and fire groups at the bullseye to see how high or low the rifle shoots at each range.
Put out a bunch of clay pigeons or tin cans at your test ranges and see how you get on putting holes in them.
Do some shooting offhand ('off the shoulder') to see just how wobbly you are (bet you're not as wobbly as me ), and learn to use whatever support is available to you wherever you shoot. Go prone, lean against a tree, leave the rifle on a fence post or over a gate (supported by your hand, or a hat, or something soft, don't leave it in hard contact with anything), sit down, whatever.
Offhand shooting is always my last resort, if I can find ANYTHING to steady things up.

Don't be afraid to burn up a few boxes of bullets setting up and having fun, ALL trigger time is good!


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Umiq88

Thanks for that for targets im using the zeroing one off http://www.mytargets.com its got a 1" grid so it will make it easier adjusting the scope