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Scratches

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  • 06-06-2005 10:38pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 2,084 ✭✭✭


    As it was such a nice day today I drove up North today for a walk in the country. At one stage I was driving along a very narrow country road with gorse bushes on either side. When I checked my car later I found lots of long scratches on the sides. Only one or two are really proper scratches, but the others are still visible in the sun.
    So what are my options now? I've only ever had to deal with tiny scratches up until now, and the touch-up faint pen has done for those. Any help appreciated!


«1

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Give it a good T-cut and a polish and most of the scratches will be minimised.


  • Moderators, Regional North West Moderators Posts: 19,121 Mod ✭✭✭✭byte
    byte


    On the topic of T-Cut, does that stuff eventually destroy the paintwork over using it numerous times, or is that just an old wives tale?

    I've heard that everytime it's used, it thins the paintwork to make it spread over the scratches etc...


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 361 ✭✭Con9903


    you are in fact skimming off a miniscule layer of paint, but don't rub the same area for a prolonged length of time and you'll be fine. I suppose eventually the paint would wear down.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,102 ✭✭✭Neil_Sedaka


    I think you would have to do a whole lot of t-cutting to reach the primer :D
    If it's a metallic finish I think you need a special metallic t-cut, ask in any good motor factors.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,393 ✭✭✭BrianD3


    I also had this problem on a metallic car and used a T-cut colour polish (similar to that "Color Magic" stuff)

    I think the original T-cut is a much harder abrasive than these polishes and is more for use on oxidised paint rather than light scratches


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,084 ✭✭✭fjon


    Brian, my car is metallic black - should I use T-Cut Colour Polish instead of regular T-Cut then?


  • Registered Users Posts: 21,465 ✭✭✭✭Alun


    I drive a lot around the Wicklow Mountains, and getting scratches from gorse bushes is an occupational hazard there. Luckily though the scratches are mainly superficial, and I have some stuff called "Safe Cut" from Turtle Wax that gets rid of them quite easily. It's a paste, in a tube, rather than a liquid, and it is safe for use on metallic finishes.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,146 ✭✭✭Ronan|Raven


    Will T-CUT cover up the type of scratches where you introduce yer vehicle to a large concrete mass?! :-D


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,393 ✭✭✭BrianD3


    fjon wrote:
    Brian, my car is metallic black - should I use T-Cut Colour Polish instead of regular T-Cut then?
    I'd say use either the T-Cut "black" polish or as already mentioned use the Safe Cut. Both of these are abrasive, I don't know which is more so but both should be safe to use on metallics. IIRC Safe Cut comes in a yellow bottle or tube. Whatever you use, follow the instructions on the back of the container and experiment with polishing a small piece of bodywork first and then move onto bigger areas.


  • Registered Users Posts: 498 ✭✭bmoferrall


    I just spent a couple of hours using T-Cut for the first time on my car. It's excellent at removing superficial scratches. Although it wont remove deeper scratches it does help to feather them. If you use T-cut on the whole car it will produce a really deep shine - your car will look like it just left the showroom.
    I highly recommended it, but avoid over-rubbing and make sure you get the correct colour.

    [Edit]A couple of stray cats have taken a shine to my bonnet after dark. Bless their furry feet for having such exquisite taste but if I catch them retribution will be swift. Apart from using a cover is there cat repellant available that might deter them?[/Edit]


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,033 ✭✭✭Silvera


    I worked as a panel beater/sprayer for 6 years and we always used 3M 'Finesse It' for machine buffing and hand-polishing metallic paintwork.

    I still keep a bottle handy for my own use....it's not cheap tho!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 900 ✭✭✭Gegerty


    BrianD3 wrote:
    I also had this problem on a metallic car and used a T-cut colour polish (similar to that "Color Magic" stuff)

    I think the original T-cut is a much harder abrasive than these polishes and is more for use on oxidised paint rather than light scratches

    Is colour magic an abrasive?? I just bought some i thought it was a wax with colouring in it no?


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 25,558 Mod ✭✭✭✭Dades


    I think the colour magic stuff is just normal wax, while the T-cut stuff is abrasive.
    I have the blue T-cut stuff and the bottle looks just like the original colour magic one.

    I got better results from Autoglym "paint restorer" though.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 16,659 ✭✭✭✭dahamsta


    You mean "Paint Renovator" Atheist? I've been meaning to cut my bus and I was going to go with T-Cut, but I'm a big fan of Auto Glym products. So you reckon it's better than T-Cut?

    adam


  • Registered Users Posts: 498 ✭✭bmoferrall


    bmoferrall wrote:
    I just spent a couple of hours using T-Cut for the first time on my car... If you use T-cut on the whole car it will produce a really deep shine - your car will look like it just left the showroom.
    I thought I'd back this up with some pics of my 3 yr old car (any excuse). I applied T-cut by hand so results would be even better had I used a buffing machine:

    side.jpg
    side_rear.JPG
    front.JPG
    side_front.JPG


  • Registered Users Posts: 21,465 ✭✭✭✭Alun


    You seem to have overdone it a bit on the licence plate :)


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 25,558 Mod ✭✭✭✭Dades


    dahamsta wrote:
    You mean "Paint Renovator" Atheist? I've been meaning to cut my bus and I was going to go with T-Cut, but I'm a big fan of Auto Glym products. So you reckon it's better than T-Cut?
    Sorry adam - yup that's the one.

    Had a go with the coloured T-cut and didn't much of a result. The Autoglym stuff came up better for me.

    Depends on the job I guess. The car I'm working on has been in storage and you wouldn't believe the black grime that was coming off with the (white) autoglym stuff. The parts of the body work that weren't too bad were coming up quite shiny.

    You're supposed to use the Resin Polish afterward.

    G'luck!


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 16,659 ✭✭✭✭dahamsta


    Sorry adam - yup that's the one.
    Ta.
    You're supposed to use the Resin Polish afterward.
    I wouldn't use anything else. :)

    adam


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,269 ✭✭✭MercMad


    Thats a lovely Alfa ! It came up very well but I wouldn't recommend using any type of abrasive unless really neccesary.

    I used to work in a bodyshop too and I second the 3M and Autoglym recommendations completely !

    Sometimes its good to really wet the cloth before applying any compound as it reduces the effect, so its good to try this first as you may not need to remove much !

    Also after using any compund you should apply a decent quality wax .........or resin polish ! :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 881 ✭✭✭Ernie Ball


    So what would be the complete recommended procedure for a car with scratched paint?

    Would it be:

    1) Wash
    2) Dry
    3) AutoGlym Paint renovator
    4) Resin polish ?

    Anything else?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,791 ✭✭✭prospect


    Wash with wax free product.

    Wax.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 881 ✭✭✭Ernie Ball


    prospect wrote:
    Wash with wax free product.

    Wax.

    Are those steps 5 and 6?


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,791 ✭✭✭prospect


    No,

    Replace step 1 with:
    Wash with wax free product.

    And Wax & buff is last,
    I think. I have never used the resin polish though. Maybe its the same.


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 25,558 Mod ✭✭✭✭Dades


    Again - depends on the state of the paintwork.

    A car that just needs a good buff, is different to one that has gone dull over time and needs extra work.

    I say the "Restorer" stuff does what it says on the tin!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 881 ✭✭✭Ernie Ball


    What about clay? Where would that fit into the process?


  • Registered Users Posts: 498 ✭✭bmoferrall


    *double post deleted*


  • Registered Users Posts: 498 ✭✭bmoferrall


    MercMad wrote:
    Thats a lovely Alfa ! It came up very well but I wouldn't recommend using any type of abrasive unless really neccesary.

    I used to work in a bodyshop too and I second the 3M and Autoglym recommendations completely !

    Sometimes its good to really wet the cloth before applying any compound as it reduces the effect, so its good to try this first as you may not need to remove much !

    Also after using any compund you should apply a decent quality wax .........or resin polish ! :D
    Thanks for the tips. It was a once-off job to remove a 3-yr build-up of minor scratches; I intend switching back to autoglym polish until I feel the need for T-cut (or this 3M stuff) again. I didn't bother applying normal polish after the T-cut and that probably shows (might do so and post revised pics tomorrow).


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,033 ✭✭✭Silvera


    If you want to know more about polishing, buffing etc, have a look at this site - these guys are fanatical about it ! :D

    Buff like mad!


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 16,659 ✭✭✭✭dahamsta


    Right, I've decided to cut the beamer tomorrow, any tips for me? You know, stuff like "don't apply it diagonally because all the paint, and your mirrors, will fall off by the end of the day". :)

    Seriously, there's usually knacks to these things that aren't mentioned on the tin, so if there are any tricks, pass 'em on.

    adam


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 88,978 ✭✭✭✭mike65


    Get up early! Do the job when a you're fresh (ish) and before the sun has got any heat in it or indeed there may be low cloud/mist. Make sure you're doing the job on freshly clean paint. Last thing you need is to rub in some gritty particles as you go. Do you have plenty of clean soft cloth, I find old t-shirts exellent for this sort of work.
    what about clay? Where would that fit into the process?

    Ernie, claying comes after a wash and before polishing or waxing clay will remove those nasty particles I mentioned above without damaging the paint.
    When claying use car wash shampoo as lubricant.

    Mike.


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