Bridging Question !

borris the bad

Hi,I have a question on fixing solid bridging in my floor.
Is it ok to stick a couple of 4" nails through the ends of the bridging or do I want to skew nail from the bridging side!
Thanks in anticipation
Borris

kadman

borris the bad wrote:

Hi,I have a question on fixing solid bridging in my floor.
Is it ok to stick a couple of 4" nails through the ends of the bridging or do I want to skew nail from the bridging side!
Thanks in anticipation
Borris

Hi Borris.

Herring bone strutting would be far superior to internal bridging.
Diagonal strutting tightens, as the floor joists shrink, and the floor becomes more solid and stable.

Internal blocking loosens, naturally enough, when the joists dry out and shrink a bit. The whole floor is a lose arrangement then, and thats when you get creaking, and deflection in the floor joists.

You can get steel herringbone struts, that you screw/nail in, or you could use timber strutting, but the steel would be superior and faster to install.
I cant think of the proper name for the steel inserts, no doubt Rooferpete ( smarty ) will know them, as he probably uses them.



kadman

rooferPete

Hi Borris,

I think Kadman is referring to the Herringbone Joist Strut, the most common one used that I know of is made by BAT.

Most construction fixing companies should carry them, I buy mine off,

The Fixing Company,
Coolmine Industrial Estate,
D. 15.

They are very helpful, and you buy one or 1,000 and they value your custom.

.

kadman

Hi Rooferpete,

An excellent little 3d pic there Rooferpete, was that one you prepared earlier.

I had better watch out . :rolleyes:

kadman

rooferPete

Hi Kadman,

Nothing to fear from my drawing skills be it with pencil or computer good companies provide those drawings

.

borris the bad

Thanks again Kadman and RooferPete.
Looks like I will have to go with a herringbone strutting arrangement.We want our self-build to last 500 years at least!
As regards the last query you guys helped with re.RSJ/Wall plate question the beam is sitting nicely where it should be with a right angle (Forming an external hip )coming out about 3 1/2m. We welded a plate on the bottom of a 90mm galvanised steel tube and welded it to the beam underneath the hip rafter foot and concreteted the base. Do you think the tube is chunky enough to take all the weight of the beams /joists/roof?
It was like Kadmans drawing.
Regards
Borris

kadman

Hi Borris,

Is it like this now.

Kadman

Victor

borris the bad wrote:

As regards the last query you guys helped with re.RSJ/Wall plate question the beam is sitting nicely where it should be with a right angle (Forming an external hip )coming out about 3 1/2m.

This is where you should really employ an engineer.....

borris the bad wrote:

We welded a plate on the bottom of a 90mm galvanised steel tube and welded it to the beam underneath the hip rafter foot and concreteted the base.

But how think was the steel in the 90mm tube? Is it fireproofed?

rooferPete

Hi Victor,

I am inclined to agree with you, it is an engineers detail to calculate the load details, I'm not so sure I would worry about fire proof since it's outside the building the facia and sofitt details will burn faster than the steel.

I know this detail can be done as a cantilever because the load is spread to the two wall plates by hip rafters, the last similar corner I did was resting on a pillar of concrete blocks that was in turn on a very good foundation.

I think the tube in this case is carrying the steel more than the roof, of course a lot depends on the bearing the steel has on the walls.

The type of detail that should not be specified "blind" on an internet web site ?

.