Question for Roofer Pete

borris the bad

Hi Roofer Pete
Can you tell me how you would weather where a hip disapears into a valley?It must be possible.
Regards
Borris

rooferPete

Hi borris,

I take it you mean the hip stops in the valley area ?

If I read the question right, the valley should be in a continous run from the eave to the top or ridge of the valley.

Fit the lead or copper lining as usual and allow the hip hook to be fitted above the metal which should allow the ridge to terminate over the valley with the front of the ridge cut at the same angle as the valley is running.

That should mean the hip and the tiles on both sides of the hip ridge are draining into the valley in line all the way up the valley.

That way the hip ridge should look well from a front or side view and it will be waterproof because it overhangs the valley.

I hope the above is of some help.

.

borris the bad

Hi
Good advice as usual.I am using redland Cambrian slates with a mitred hip.The valleys are small ones.I have a small hipped roof sticking out over a bay window.The valleys are where this projection joins the main roof.The whole bay has been a pain in the a--e.Hope this makes things clearer.
Regards
Borris

rooferPete

Hi Borris,

I hope you were supplied with Cambrian Slate and a half for that detail, cambrian can be a very deceiving product for the most experienced and a nighmare to price.

They have a special detail for the close mitred hips which would be a time consuming job for the most experienced tradesman.

I don't have Kadman's skills with computer programmes but if you find yourself stuck I may be able to come to an agreement with the Kad of team RooKad to get you more detail.

.

borris the bad

Hi Roofer Pete
Have already successfully done the garage with mtred hips.Never done a valley bit will be atempting ourselves.I think I have it worked out now.I have to put the runner on the other side of the hip keeping parallel to the center of the valley,run it "up and over "the hip. I will also have to move the fascia intersection out by 140mm.Regrettable but the tidiest solution I think

I will be getting wireless broadband next week so will be able to send photos.
Regards

Builderwoman!

Hi Pete,

Looking for some advice on using clay roof tiles please?

Thanks a mill

rooferPete

Hi,

The first thing that comes to mind when clay tiles are mentioned is there is no such thing as a cheap clay tile.

Make sure all tiles presented to you carry a current British Agrement Cert, take extreme care when offered any of the new imports, some of them work very well in their own snow bound countries but there are very few roofs with a 60 degree pitch in Ireland.

The smaller "rosemary" tiles can look really well when done properly, again you need a pitch of 45 degrees for them to be truly effective, a good clay tile should be able to work without any underlay (same as any roof really) so if you want to test the rep tell them you don't care if it's crazy but you are not fitting underlay, you want your roof to be truly traditional and breathe.

.

Builderwoman!

Hi Pete (and sorry for butting in on your post Borris but I thought Pete might check back in to your post so hence my reason for hanging in here rather than creating a new one!)

We were looking at the HP 10 form Imerys Roof tiles. They have the British Agrement cert. Have you fitted them?

rooferPete

Hi,

I refused to fit them, not because of the tile or the manufacturer.

.

Builderwoman!

Pete, you have me really wondering now- WHY? Help??? We are about to buy them! Tell me the pitfalls, problems etc PLEASE?

rooferPete

Hi Builderwoman,

Apologies, I think that is the first post where I allowed personal experiences over rule professional opinions.

I will leave the post there un-edited because at this point it could make your post appear out of place.

Apologies once again.

.

Builderwoman!

Hi Pete, without prying, can you advise me if, in your professional opinion they are a good buy, a good product, a good roofing solution.

Really looking forward to your response. I value the opnion of anyone in the building trade with relevant experience. Our roofers haven't used this product before so they cannot advise us.

Thanks a mill.

rooferPete

Hi,

Please email roofconsult@eircom.net where I may be able to answer your question in more detail.

.

spanners

Hi Pete.
My name is Tim. I'm new here,a truck mechanic, building extension at the moment. Would you be able to tell me how to weather the chimney stack. it iexits partly on the hip,which adds to the difficulty.
thanking you .
spanners

rooferPete

Hi Tim,

Any chance you can send a photo to roofconsult@eircom.net ?

The flashing detail at a hip should be reasonably easy easpecially if you have a concrete tile on the roof.

Slate is more difficult but as you are exiting at the hip you can remove the slates easy enough once you have the hip ridge tiles off.

Take care if you have to trim the hip rafter, make sure you support it, while it may not drop by much nothing looks worse than a hip out of line.

Give the chimney enough time to set before you allow any pressure against it, even though the timbers will be trimmed and probably cross braced I expect it's not the only section of the hip you will be working on.

.

spanners

Thanks Pete
I did'nt explain myself very well.I am using lead for the flashing ,and one of the plasterers just mentioned that lead is not used anywhere else except here and in the U.K. what I was wondering was if you would use lead or copper or some other flashing ,,
Thanks again
Tim

rooferPete

Hi Tim,

I would have no problem using lead, no offence but I would recommend you use code 4 lead on your chimney because working with copper is a skill that takes a long time to master.

Zinc and aluminium can be used but to use them properly you would need skills that are equal to if not above those of a coppersmith especially for Rheinzinc, standard zinc has a life expectency of about twenty five years, if you are lucky.

The plasterer is wrong about the locations where lead is used, they use their fair share in France and they even coat copper with lead in the USA.

I think he may have been reading articles about some Nordic countries where they are concerned about the lead run off contaminating the ground water tables.

My advice is take proper health and safety precautions like wearing gloves, washing your hands and no smoking while working with lead because you may leave small deposits of lead on your cigarette that end up in your mouth.

If the roof is new apply patination oil to both sides of the lead before using it and you won't get streaks running down the roof finish, there are no rules against using it on old roofs either.

.

spanners

Peter .
Thanks for the advice, it is a pleasure to see the work of a craftsman or indeed a craftsman at work.I come from a small rural farming background, and the only way we could get things done , was to get started.One would be amazed at the various skills one picked up, growing up in rural Ireland in the late 50s and 60s. I could plough at 11 and by the time I was 18 I could overhaul the engine of a Fordson Major tractor.These days things change so fast that we often find out that the way we do things, is way out of fashion. One would need as many advisors and consultants as the Dept. of Health. Anyway, this extension is proceeding apace, but not fast enough fot the missus who wants to go into Cork and start buying curtains, drapes , tiles and a new kitchen, and she wants eejit here to have it all done for Christmas. Lord help me but, one of these days I'll give her back.
Regards , and thanks again for the kind help.
Tim