Pads fine after 28k miles?

skyhighflyer

Hi lads,

Just a quick question...

I'm 19 and drive a 2000 Citroen Saxo (yeah yeah I know - but it's not modded or anything it's just a cheap set of wheels)

Anyway, I do most of the routine maintainence on the car myself (oil/ filter changes etc), however one thing I always leave to the pros is the brakes....

Please look at the following chronology and if you can help me out with my question

Bought car with 21k miles on it (main dealer)

25000 - brought in for service - dealer informs me that pads need changing - pads are duly changed

38000 - Bring it to a dealer to resolve airbag issue - asked them to check the brakes - say pads are fine (over half left)

53000 - bring it to advance pitstop to check the brakes as I'm sure they need changing by now - feeling softer - he checks the pads and tells me they're fine!

So my question is this - is it normal to get 28,000 miles out of a set of pads and for them to be fine? Especially since the previous owner (a woman) drove it for 21,000 miles and they needed changing 4000 miles after I bought it, which would suggest 25,000 miles is about right?

Cheers lads,

Dan

PlayaFlow

depends what brand brakes they are , depends how you drive and youre breaking technique. i dont know the mileage i last changed mine . but i do remember i changed them 3 times , while my dad only changed his 1 and he drives a hell of a lot more than me.
I dont kno why your worried though , if the pitstop guy says theyre fine. and usually u know when they need changing because they start screeching, and even then they still have some juice left.:D

oh and 1 question. if you do all routine work urself why not do the brakes yourself too????... its simple really , just a step above changing a wheel! and u cant really go wrong.

JohnCleary

I agree changing the brakes is very simple and can save you money!
I did a whole brake upgrade on my car, I removed my cr4p 262mm solid discs and replaced them with 282mm vented discs & calipers from an MG ZS 180.

I was quoted 150euro to do the conversion (with me supplying the parts) but I said id give it a go, and it worked fine! The only thing I was iffy about was bleeding the brakes but I got a friend to help (pressing the pedal).

And changing the pads is very simple its only 2 bolts! Nothing messy at all (Except brake dust!)

Squirrel

Changing the pads is easy, I'd call it much easier than the oil filter, and it all depends on your style of driving, the previous owner could've been very hard on them. Where you drive might have some effect also, town driving would have more wear I assume

skyhighflyer

Thanks for the messages lads,

I think that it must be a difference in driving location, the previous owner must've driving in town most of the time whereas I usually use the car on the Naas dual carriageway (for town), M50 southbound (for college) and the M(N)9 to Carlow for work. Not much town work involved...

I bought the Haynes manual for the Saxo the other day... might have a go at changing the pads myself when they do finally need to be done.

Could the reason the brakes feel soft be because it's time to bleed the system and change the fluid? I don't think it's ever been done on the car... the instructions in the manual make it seem a bit complicated - has anyone here done it before (John) and what was your experience?

AMurphy

I'd expect 30K minimum for a normal vehicle and normal driving.

the Van did 60K on teh first set, the camry 70K on the front and still working on the rears at 150K....maybe they are stuck

Why are they soft, what have you at the back?.
Could be many reasons. Air in the lines being the easiest to clear.
Failing Vacuum servo.
Poorly adjusted rears.

No harm in refreshing hte fluid every time you change the pads anyway, or every 60K or so.

After that it gets a bit complicated.
Blocked lines
Failing seals
Lines that expand due to weaknesses,
Your foot is changing.
Pads worn to a triangle shape.
one is stuck and overheating.
who knows....

squibs

My almera did 65 on the front, 80 and still going strong on the back.

Interceptor

AMurphy wrote:

the camry 70K on the front.

From talking to a mate in the 'states there was a company selling replacement pads and guaranteeing them for the life of the car, he bought a set and thought nothing of it until he went for a service and was told that the pads were fine after 60,000mile but his DISCS were worn away. He ended up junking the super pads because he would have been replacing discs more regularly. Pads 1 : Discs 0.

Back on topic, the Saxo shouldn't eat pads if your driving style is gentle and the pads are good quality. Fitting them yourself is easy but you should get someone to show you how, or check your work - I learned the hard way when I didn't bleed mine properly and was only braking on one side at the front and the car changed direction under heavy braking. Being able to check calipers and cylinders for problems is another skill and you should be cautious.

Rear pads and their associated self-adjusting handbrake mechanisms still cause me occasional grief, as have the couple of times I've sheared bleed nipples after Hulk Hogan tightened them in the Renault factory.

'cptr

skyhighflyer

I'd expect 30K minimum for a normal vehicle and normal driving.

the Van did 60K on teh first set, the camry 70K on the front and still working on the rears at 150K....maybe they are stuck

Why are they soft, what have you at the back?.
Could be many reasons. Air in the lines being the easiest to clear.
Failing Vacuum servo.
Poorly adjusted rears.

No harm in refreshing hte fluid every time you change the pads anyway, or every 60K or so.

After that it gets a bit complicated.
Blocked lines
Failing seals
Lines that expand due to weaknesses,
Your foot is changing.
Pads worn to a triangle shape.
one is stuck and overheating.
who knows....

Well that makes me feel better about it anyway

I haven't noticed a huge reduction in braking performance... they just weren't as sharp as they used to be I guess... probably just time!

Anyway cheers for the advice.

AMurphy

Interceptor wrote:

From talking to a mate in the 'states there was a company selling replacement pads and guaranteeing them for the life of the car, ...... Pads 1 : Discs 0.

.....
I've sheared bleed nipples after Hulk Hogan tightened them in the Renault factory.

'cptr

Some rotors die faster than others, eg my Voyager van. seems to be 60Kmls for both pads AND rotors, if I want any peace. The rotors do not wear, just warp. I'm going to try Crossdrilled/scored aftermarked ones next time, which is coming up soon.
truck (Toy) has the original rotors @ 180K, slight warp on one, not sure which side and at $240 each... not that worried about it. Probably fail your NCT...but...
Camry still on original rotors, F&R.

forgot, Nipples. typically I have found only rusted nipples shear. And to keep them from rusting I use little rubber caps and renew them if they crack. also, first time you do the brakes, remove them completely and grease the threads. and if you cannot obtain rubber caps, heat and form caps out of 1/4" plastic tubing, cheap and works.

MercMad

Could the reason the brakes feel soft be because it's time to bleed the system and change the fluid? I don't think it's ever been done on the car... the instructions in the manual make it seem a bit complicated - has anyone here done it before (John) and what was your experience?

..........yes most likely times to change fluid and bleed. Most manufacturers reccommend you do this every 2 years. Thats possibly a bit extreme but certainly every 3-4 or at leats every 40k whichever comes sooner !

As far a pad life goes, the trend is for extended service intervals so manufacturers are using harder compounds, with the resulting brakes squeal and shortened disc life as a result.

About 10 years ago you really only changed discs at high mileage 80-100,000 miles or if they were warped or damaged. Now I see main stealers trying to replace these at 30k !!

If you are getting long life from your pads thats great, my father has 110k on his Merc and its only on its second set of pads, still lots left too !

I would suggets leaving bleeding/renewing fluid to the pro's as although its not complicated its also not for 1st time DIY. If you get it wrong it will cost you !