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Renovation - External Insulation & new windows?

  • 24-03-2017 09:26AM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 559 ✭✭✭


    Hi,

    I've about to buy a property I've been renting for a few years. It's a 1990's semi detached and not what I would call comfortable. It cools down quickly and overheats easily. I'm applying for the mortgage but wondered if I should add on an extra 20K for renovations? (add to mortgage or withhold from deposit) This would allow me to get external insulation fitted and replace the original windows.

    My question is if this would add value to the house down the road if I sold in the next 3-5 years? Or would I be better doing up the inside of the house much more cheaply as this would make it more attractive to a potential buyer than comfort / BER rating? Would I recoup that 20K back in a sale?

    I'm probably going to put all my savings into the deposit and if I decide not to sell in a few years perform this upgrade then. This would reduce my mortgage payments but not my gas bills - plan to rent a room so those costs would be shared anyway.

    Thoughts?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,541 ✭✭✭Dudda


    I've just put in new triple glazed windows and external wall insulation (EWI) on my house. It's a big house and cost more than 20k and depending on the size of the house it will probably cost you more than 20k too.

    I think you're better to insulate the house than carry out cosmetic work. If you were to spend the money on say a kitchen and bathroom refurb then by the time you sell it you'll have a kitchen that's 5-10 years old. The way things are changing so fast it could be seen by new buyers as an old fashioned kitchen. I know we'd like to think a kitchen would last more than 5-10 years but from a selling point it would be a nice kitchen not a brand new state of the art one.

    Doing EWI and new windows are the better bet here and you can currently get grants to help you. A few tips. Have the new windows positioned so they're moved out in line with the new EWI as this will create a fully insulated fabric. If the windows stay where they are and you externally insulate you'll have cold areas around the window reveals. You'll need to carry out both at the same time to achieve this so you can't eg. do windows this year and EWI next year.
    The next point is to get the most from the EWI you'll have to pump any external wall cavity you have. This is to stop cold air currents going around the EWI in the wall cavity. This in comparison is relatively cheap and will improve the house further. I'd also get 150mm of insulation or 200mm although most of the companies installing it will probably just offer you 100mm as this is what they do daily to comply with the grant. It's not much more expensive as the labour is the same, it's the same amount of plastering, etc. but provides a far warmer house. You can also do stuff like remove the roof soffit to allow the EWI continue up to meet the insulation in the attic and remove the cold bridge in at the eaves. If doing it once do it right as it's hard and costly to go back later and fix it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 909 ✭✭✭bemak


    Looking at this very thing for a house at the moment. These are the rule of thumb rates I have based on averages across jobs

    external insulation: €100 per sqm
    glazing: €700 per sqm

    Might give you a rough indication of how far your 20k will go. Don't forget new sills and making good works will be required following the installation of the external insulation.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 559 ✭✭✭mike_2009


    Thanks,
    A key decision point is if I'd recoup the investment in EWI/new Windows in a sale 3 years down the road vs the house next door with nothing like that done? Does the second hand market take notice of these upgrades or would I only get say an extra 10K over an adjacent house that had no upgrades done - loosing 10K overall from the investment. It might help selling the house easier but that's not worth loosing 10K over....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 909 ✭✭✭bemak


    The insulation and new windows will give you a better BER and make it a cheaper house for you to heat while you occupy it so you need to take that saving into consideration as well. Also, by doing the work, you're taking the hassle out of it for the next owner which will not go unnoticed. Personally I would do the work just for my own comfort and to reduce the cost of living in the house. You might decide in 3 years time that you're very happy there and stay. Best do it and make it a selling point if/when you do decide to sell it. If the job is done well it'll pay for itself.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,612 ✭✭✭Dardania


    If your timescale is a number of 3 or 5 years...frankly you'll never see the payback in running costs, nor the commensurate value in a sale situation for EWI. 
    Not too many viewers of house would notice it, and I'm not sure they would attach the appropriate premium to it (running costs are far down the importance list for people looking for a home - things like floor space, layout, commute distance, shops nearby, schools, aspect even all come before the bimonthly bill)

    What I would suggest, and bearing in mind your OP where you note that the house overheats alot, is look at the heating controls, as a low hanging fruit. If you were to optimise the heat input to the house (e.g. fitting Thermostatic Rad Valve and a decent programmer/temp sensor) you would be able to more easily maintain a comfortable temperature, notwithstanding the heat loss at present.

    Even if you were to fit EWI down the road, you would need decent controls anyhow, to prevent an overheat situation. This is a screenshot from the Nest programmer in my home for the past few days, which has EWI - you'll still need to input heat, so you may as well control it correctly:
    412662.png

    Windows are probably a good idea if the old ones are poor. Doors too - the composite ones give good u-values. And altogether you could probably address some airtight issues along the way with installing those elements? A buyer might notice & appreciate details like that. And a BER at the time would bear in mind those types of upgrades, and read well to buyers


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 909 ✭✭✭bemak


    I have a Nest as well. Put it into a house we're renting (will take it with me) and it's been great.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,179 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    OP:
    1: I would max the mortgage and conserve cash, keep some in reserve and do out a repayment profile based on increased interest rates.
    2: if this is a refurb and flip then you should have verifiable work and keep a record of your energy bills now and afterwards.
    Hoping to regain your investment based on a BER differential is cuckoo land, it will need one for you to buy anyway and its based on expected occupancy rather than actual.

    The overheating may be due to poor heating controls in winter or in summer due to solar gain through windows and roof/velus windows, with little attic insulation so check the need for perhaps summer shading of south and west facing windows, especially second floor.

    Would I do it, yes, if you have the cash/debt and enjoy the improved living conditions

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 559 ✭✭✭mike_2009


    Thanks everyone!
    Appreciate all the advice - pros/cons.

    Cheers


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 58 ✭✭little_monty


    If you're wall is cavity block that would count against EWI

    I would also consider internal wall insulation especially if house needs or you are considering some internal refurb work

    I have experience of both Internal (my last house) and external (current house)..
    While the houses are very different, and there are other factors at play I found internal very effective

    The jury is still out on the External.

    I would also guess you're more likely to get your money back if selling in a few years by spending money on internal + heating improvements + extra refurb rather that just external


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 559 ✭✭✭mike_2009


    It's cavity wall with no insulation in the cavity as far as I can tell. There is internal dry lining in place. I'd be anxious over introducing mold problems with internal insulation which I've heard about? But it would be easier to apply although I'd end up with gaps at the floor junctions. Be a nice project though. External seems to make more sense as it's continuous....
    The payback / resale issue means I'm likely to lose some of that investment though. I'd prefer to do insulation and windows together but I'm also trying to limit the mortgage size I'm applying for making that extra €€ harder to justify.
    I'm probably just going to do the basics, the BER guy just left and he said the fact it's a new gas boiler really helps with that rating. I can increase the insulation in the attic myself and lag the water tank / pipes better.
    So, a balance of insulation, heating improvements and a bit of surface refurb sounds like the best strategy.
    Cheers!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,179 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    If you're wall is cavity block that would count against EWI

    Why?

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 58 ✭✭little_monty


    I'm not an expert .. but i was thinking of the risk of thermal looping (cold air getting into hollow block cavity).


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    If you're wall is cavity block that would count against EWI

    I would also consider internal wall insulation especially if house needs or you are considering some internal refurb work

    I have experience of both Internal (my last house) and external (current house)..
    While the houses are very different, and there are other factors at play I found internal very effective

    The jury is still out on the External.

    I would also guess you're more likely to get your money back if selling in a few years by spending money on internal + heating improvements + extra refurb rather that just external

    The jury is not out on ewi.

    It's the best method for thermal bridge retro fit scenario.

    Improved comfort needs to be rated as well as cost.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    I'm not an expert .. but i was thinking of the risk of thermal looping (cold air getting into hollow block cavity).

    Pump the cavity before installing the ewi?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 58 ✭✭little_monty


    I accept that EWI is superior .. and I don't regret getting the EWI installed ..
    It's just that I have not fully convinced myself that in my case its benefits justify its cost.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    I accept that EWI is superior .. and I don't regret getting the EWI installed ..
    It's just that I have not fully convinced myself that in my case its benefits justify its cost.

    What was your air-tightness test result ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 58 ✭✭little_monty


    I didnt get one (how many people retrofitting EWI get one ?)
    I have good attic insulation, good windows , dcv and i don't believe there is a excessive problem with draughts in my house.

    One thing i notice is the 2 bedrooms with 1 external wall are stay warmer for much longer than 2 bedrooms at (south) gable end of house with 2 external walls (and rooms are very similar otherwise) .
    While I know this is to be expected to some degree I see this as indication alot of heat is being lost to external walls


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,179 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    If you're wall is cavity block CB that would count against EWI
    I asked Why?
    You replied
    I'm not an expert .. but i was thinking of the risk of thermal looping (cold air getting into hollow block cavity).

    I would be more concerned about looping in a CW.
    There is not the same level of continuity in a CB.
    This assumes the top of wall is closed

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



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