Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Domestic solar PV quotes 2018

Options
1…7273757778…96

Comments

  • Options
    #2222
    Shefwedfan
    Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    joujoujou wrote: »
    They do. Don't know about other systems (and will be glad if anybody else share some info about their systems), but in case of solax I have, you cannot monitor it locally - system sends all the data to China, and you can access it via web browser or mobile app. It works, but sometimes painfully slowly.


    China????????



    What about all those hackers robbing our birthdate and jean sizes:p:p:p


  • Options
    #2223
    Northumberland
    Registered Users Posts: 116 ✭✭Northumberland


    joujoujou wrote: »
    They do. Don't know about other systems (and will be glad if anybody else share some info about their systems), but in case of solax I have, you cannot monitor it locally - system sends all the data to China, and you can access it via web browser or mobile app. It works, but sometimes painfully slowly.

    I also have a Ginlong Solis Hybrid inverter and as previous post says, it comes with a wireless monitoring system as standard. I have not found it to be slow, and generally very good and useful. The poster who found that it was slow should check he or she has the latest software updates, available from a helpful support service that the company runs in England. I have another installation with a Growatt (non hybrid) inverter, that also comes with a similar web based monitoring system, but think I had to pay a bit extra for that.


  • Options
    #2224
    joujoujou
    Registered Users Posts: 13,542 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    Yeah, China. Not surprised at all, why are you? What'd you expect? :P

    https://www.ip-adress.com/website/solaxcloud.com

    Germany in theory alright, but all data goes to China anyway. :cool:

    Re. updates - app runs well, but gives alot less info than web based service. And it's slow because of poor design of webpages they provide, so it's extremely unlikely any software update would solve that.


  • Options
    #2225
    Donadea Leo
    Registered Users Posts: 198 ✭✭Donadea Leo


    spose wrote: »
    We had a 200L cylinder with solar thermal in a well insulated house. When there was just 2 of us we didn’t need to use the boiler from about April to October. Really liked not burning anything for half the year. Now that there’s 5 of us it just couldn’t keep up and we ended up using the boiler for a top up most days. Now we have a 400L cylinder with the thermal and new PV feeding it. I know there’s an argument for whether the price per kw from oil makes the diverter worthwhile but if we can get back to 6 months of free hot water I’ll be pretty happy

    Interesting, 400 litres is pretty big, I m not sure we d use that much, there s 4 of us and the 2 kids hop in the shower twice a week, they re big enough not to need a bath. Our bath isn't actually working, the taps weren't working when we bought the house and I still haven't replaced them. It s not a big job to fix and would be nice to have the option of the bath but it would be rare enough I d say.
    We also have another shower that I thought was a 2nd electric shower (it didn't work either)but in fact it's a power shower with it's own electric pump. It would be good to use that. Like you i like the idea of not using the boiler in summer, though a little boost from an efficient gas boiler is probably a pretty efficient way to heat water.
    I have noticed that since the hot water cylinder is off the heating is working remarkably well (could do with a cold snap to properly test it) but I ve knocked 2 hours off the timer and have noticed the boiler is actually not firing for some of the time it is set 3.5 hrs per day. The rads upstairs get extremely hot while they are on and rooms hit stat temp in 10 to 15 minutes. This has dissuaded me a bit from thinking about heat pump as previously rads were only Luke warm and stat temp was never hit. We defo need to upgrade insulation in fairness too. Also I d imagine heating controls would be a big benefit.
    I ve applied to the superhomes site to see if we can get an assessment, I don't think we ll be doing deep retrofit but would be good to get a proper review of how well house is actually performing.


  • Options
    #2226
    rob w
    Registered Users Posts: 1,111 ✭✭✭rob w


    Hi,

    Maybe this is the wrong thread for this post, if so mods can move it.

    Just wondering about anyone who has done a DIY install, or through a REC rather than a registered SEAI contractor (as quotes I'm getting with grants are very high). The ESB NC6 form requests the 'type test forms' to be submitted with the application.

    Does anyone know where these can be sourced from, I presume they are supplied by manufacturer along with purchase or how are they obtained?

    Thanks


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #2227
    Shefwedfan
    Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    rob w wrote: »
    Hi,

    Maybe this is the wrong thread for this post, if so mods can move it.

    Just wondering about anyone who has done a DIY install, or through a REC rather than a registered SEAI contractor (as quotes I'm getting with grants are very high). The ESB NC6 form requests the 'type test forms' to be submitted with the application.

    Does anyone know where these can be sourced from, I presume they are supplied by manufacturer along with purchase or how are they obtained?

    Thanks

    You need to find someone who is certified to sign off the connection to the grid, the installers know this and that’s why you pay a premium


    I couldn’t find anyone so paid the installer, I doubt ESB will allow anyone either just to connect in


  • Options
    #2228
    rob w
    Registered Users Posts: 1,111 ✭✭✭rob w


    Shefwedfan wrote: »
    You need to find someone who is certified to sign off the connection to the grid, the installers know this and that’s why you pay a premium


    I couldn’t find anyone so paid the installer, I doubt ESB will allow anyone either just to connect in

    Yeah but can't a registered electrical contractor do the sign off, it will just not meet the SEAI requirements for the grant then?


  • Options
    #2229
    Shefwedfan
    Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    rob w wrote: »
    Yeah but can't a registered electrical contractor do the sign off, it will just not meet the SEAI requirements for the grant then?
    https://www.esbnetworks.ie/new-connections/generator-connections/connect-a-micro-generator


  • Options
    #2230
    spose
    Registered Users Posts: 297 ✭✭spose


    rob w wrote: »
    Hi,

    Maybe this is the wrong thread for this post, if so mods can move it.

    Just wondering about anyone who has done a DIY install, or through a REC rather than a registered SEAI contractor (as quotes I'm getting with grants are very high). The ESB NC6 form requests the 'type test forms' to be submitted with the application.

    Does anyone know where these can be sourced from, I presume they are supplied by manufacturer along with purchase or how are they obtained?

    Thanks


    I did same. DIY on all except connections. It was only going on a shed so wasn’t too worried about impacting the integrity of the roof. Was doing an extension anyway and electrician did it as an extra. No issues with not having seai registered installers name on the nc6 form just reci needed. Obviously couldn’t claim the grant which would have helped a lot since we were skint from the extension anyway. For me I just couldn’t justify the extra cost in going with an installer. The report for the nc6 came from the wholesaler I bought the gear from.


  • Options
    #2231
    rob w
    Registered Users Posts: 1,111 ✭✭✭rob w


    spose wrote: »
    I did same. DIY on all except connections. It was only going on a shed so wasn’t too worried about impacting the integrity of the roof. Was doing an extension anyway and electrician did it as an extra. No issues with not having seai registered installers name on the nc6 form just reci needed. Obviously couldn’t claim the grant which would have helped a lot since we were skint from the extension anyway. For me I just couldn’t justify the extra cost in going with an installer. The report for the nc6 came from the wholesaler I bought the gear from.

    That's great, thanks for the info. Exactly what I was after. I'll make sure I can get the certs from wholesaler before buying if I go down that route.

    Just wanted to be sure too there was no hassle with using a REC (as opposed to one registered on SEAI list) for sending in the application. Might send you a PM with a few more questions on your install if you don't mind? Dont want to derail this thread any more!

    Thanks


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #2232
    spose
    Registered Users Posts: 297 ✭✭spose


    No problem


  • Options
    #2233
    worlds goodest teecher
    Registered Users Posts: 1,107 ✭✭✭worlds goodest teecher


    A PV contractor recently told me that by installing solar a 4kW PV system and battery in a house, at a min I could reasonably expect to improve an BER rating by one letter, ie D2 - C2. Correct?


  • Options
    #2234
    Shefwedfan
    Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    worlds goodest teecher wrote: »
    A PV contractor recently told me that by installing solar a 4kW PV system and battery in a house, at a min I could reasonably expect to improve an BER rating by one letter, ie D2 - C2. Correct?

    Wow that would be impressive....I would question him and confirm how he knows that would happen

    My house is a C1, I very much doubt with Solar I will jump to a B1.....I would be happy to get into the B’s at all

    Now maybe he is correct if house is down low like an E or something and it would jump to D

    I’m no expert but if jumping was that easy then happy days


  • Options
    #2235
    Shefwedfan
    Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    So had a chat with installer, dropping the Eddi and putting in additional 1kW will cost 300 quid more....undecided yet


  • Options
    #2236
    worlds goodest teecher
    Registered Users Posts: 1,107 ✭✭✭worlds goodest teecher


    Shefwedfan wrote: »
    Wow that would be impressive....I would question him and confirm how he knows that would happen

    My house is a C1, I very much doubt with Solar I will jump to a B1.....I would be happy to get into the B’s at all

    Now maybe he is correct if house is down low like an E or something and it would jump to D

    I’m no expert but if jumping was that easy then happy days
    Well he didn't specifically say that, he said that you could expect to move up a letter, the house we were discussing currently has an E rating. Will be pumping cavity plus adding 200mm insulation to the attic before I look at solar. I'm aware of the min C rating post PV installation required for grant.


  • Options
    #2237
    unkel
    Registered Users Posts: 65,027 ✭✭✭✭unkel


    Shefwedfan wrote: »
    So had a chat with installer, dropping the Eddi and putting in additional 1kW will cost 300 quid more

    Try negotiate that down a bit more. Even if you couldn't, the pay back on the bigger system without the Eddi will be quicker (provided we get a FIT, even a low one, at some point in the next 5 years or so)

    And like I told you before, with or without an Eddi, with or without a FIT, with or without a battery, getting excess PV into one of your cars via the Zappi that you have already installed, is the most profitable use of your PV after the direct use of electricity in your house


  • Options
    #2238
    Shefwedfan
    Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    unkel wrote: »
    Try negotiate that down a bit more. Even if you couldn't, the pay back on the bigger system without the Eddi will be quicker (provided we get a FIT, even a low one, at some point in the next 5 years or so)

    And like I told you before, with or without an Eddi, with or without a FIT, with or without a battery, getting excess PV into one of your cars via the Zappi that you have already installed, is the most profitable use of your PV after the direct use of electricity in your house

    Oh I know, topping up the cars will be a priority to make this work

    I’m more or less set on the additional panels. No matter what I do I think the Misses will have the immersion on anyway. Tried to flip her to heat the water off boiler but she doesn’t like that, too slow and doesn’t get as hot .....haha


  • Options
    #2239
    championc
    Registered Users Posts: 6,075 ✭✭✭championc


    rob w wrote: »
    That's great, thanks for the info. Exactly what I was after. I'll make sure I can get the certs from wholesaler before buying if I go down that route.

    Just wanted to be sure too there was no hassle with using a REC (as opposed to one registered on SEAI list) for sending in the application. Might send you a PM with a few more questions on your install if you don't mind? Dont want to derail this thread any more!

    Thanks

    Basically, you can safely buy inverters sold in Ireland by the likes of midsummer.ie or solartricity.ie since they will all need to be certified for Ireland to be installed in Ireland.

    I personally have a pair of Sofar Inverters and both have Irish Specific certificates.


  • Options
    #2240
    championc
    Registered Users Posts: 6,075 ✭✭✭championc


    Shefwedfan wrote: »
    For those that have system installed. Do they come with a standard system that allows you to monitor SolarPV generated etc? or do you need to invest in something additional?

    Here are links to live data from my system. Yes, they are stored on a Chinese website but it's better that people can see real data rather than Sales pitch crap

    Most systems have a local RS485 port

    3000TL - https://www.solarmanpv.com/portal/Terminal/TerminalMain.aspx?pid=95390
    ME3000SP - https://www.solarmanpv.com/portal/Terminal/TerminalMain.aspx?pid=95268


  • Options
    #2241
    wexfordman2
    Registered Users Posts: 2,541 ✭✭✭wexfordman2


    worlds goodest teecher wrote: »
    Well he didn't specifically say that, he said that you could expect to move up a letter, the house we were discussing currently has an E rating. Will be pumping cavity plus adding 200mm insulation to the attic before I look at solar. I'm aware of the min C rating post PV installation required for grant.

    I seem to recall, after my install, my ber went from b3 to b1.


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #2242
    worlds goodest teecher
    Registered Users Posts: 1,107 ✭✭✭worlds goodest teecher


    wexfordman2 wrote: »
    I seem to recall, after my install, my ber went from b3 to b1.

    I would be starting off at a E1. List of priorities: 1. Pump cavity 2. Adding 200mm insulation to ceiling 3. Draft strip windows 4. Composite doors front and back 5. Replace open fire with pellet stove 6. Install 4kW solar PC system with battery 7. Replace 20yr old oil boiler with a more efficient oil boiler. Wonder what the min size boiler I could get away with after all that.


  • Options
    #2243
    Stefs_42
    Registered Users Posts: 151 ✭✭Stefs_42


    worlds goodest teecher wrote: »
    I would be starting off at a E1. List of priorities: 1. Pump cavity 2. Adding 200mm insulation to ceiling 3. Draft strip windows 4. Composite doors front and back 5. Replace open fire with pellet stove 6. Install 4kW solar PC system with battery 7. Replace 20yr old oil boiler with a more efficient oil boiler. Wonder what the min size boiler I could get away with after all that.


    ever since we moved to our house which initially was rated as D1, Ive done following improvements to increase my BER rating:


    1.double glazing for windows
    2.pumped wall cavities
    3.insulated attic
    4.installed energy efficient boiler
    5.installed stove with back boiler
    6.installed air to water heat system
    7.LED bulbs all around


    Whole that reduced BER to C2


    now we ve installed PV system and got B1.


  • Options
    #2244
    wexfordman2
    Registered Users Posts: 2,541 ✭✭✭wexfordman2


    worlds goodest teecher wrote: »
    I would be starting off at a E1. List of priorities: 1. Pump cavity 2. Adding 200mm insulation to ceiling 3. Draft strip windows 4. Composite doors front and back 5. Replace open fire with pellet stove 6. Install 4kW solar PC system with battery 7. Replace 20yr old oil boiler with a more efficient oil boiler. Wonder what the min size boiler I could get away with after all that.

    Similar steps to what we did

    1) attic insulated and walls pumped
    2) oil boiler upgraded to condensing boiler
    3) boiler controls added (nest)
    4) composite front door added
    5) solar Pv added

    House was built in 2000, not sure there us much more we can do that makes financial sense.


  • Options
    #2245
    tech
    Registered Users Posts: 2,801 ✭✭✭tech


    hi wexford man what was your BER rating and what is it now?


  • Options
    #2246
    wexfordman2
    Registered Users Posts: 2,541 ✭✭✭wexfordman2


    tech wrote: »
    hi wexford man what was your BER rating and what is it now?

    Its b1 now, cant remember what It was initially, the bits were done over a few years so it was a gradual increase.

    The solar was the last but, and I think it took me from c to b1, will dig out the carts and see if I can get more info


  • Options
    #2247
    wexfordman2
    Registered Users Posts: 2,541 ✭✭✭wexfordman2


    wexfordman2 wrote: »
    Its b1 now, cant remember what It was initially, the bits were done over a few years so it was a gradual increase.

    The solar was the last but, and I think it took me from c to b1, will dig out the carts and see if I can get more info

    Ok, so the first job we got completed with a BER was when the boiler got upgraded, and we were C3 after that.

    We then got walls pumped and attic insulation improved, which brought us to c1.

    We got the front door replaced from a timber one to a composite one, but no BER was done based on that work.

    The solar Pv install then brought us to b1 (vant find the ber for that, but am sure it was b1, as I was a bit disappointed hoping to jump to maybe an A3.


  • Options
    #2248
    worlds goodest teecher
    Registered Users Posts: 1,107 ✭✭✭worlds goodest teecher


    wexfordman2 wrote: »
    Ok, so the first job we got completed with a BER was when the boiler got upgraded, and we were C3 after that.

    We then got walls pumped and attic insulation improved, which brought us to c1.

    We got the front door replaced from a timber one to a composite one, but no BER was done based on that work.

    The solar Pv install then brought us to b1 (vant find the ber for that, but am sure it was b1, as I was a bit disappointed hoping to jump to maybe an A3.

    B1 is good rating


  • Options
    #2249
    garo
    Registered Users Posts: 1,874 ✭✭✭garo


    BER ratings can sometimes be a crapshoot and I have seen the exact same house get different ratings from different assessors. My house was a D2 and after converting lights to LED and heating controls and new cylinder I got to D1. Solar PV got us to C2.


  • Options
    #2250
    garo
    Registered Users Posts: 1,874 ✭✭✭garo


    garo wrote: »
    November
    Predicted: 109.9
    Actual: 63.9

    December
    Predicted: 61.9
    Actual: 43.6

    PS: Nov prediction was 96.7. 109.9 was predicted array output. Still have had poor output for two months now.


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #2251
    mike_2009
    Registered Users Posts: 528 ✭✭✭mike_2009


    My house was a D1 when I bought it two years ago (And that was with a new gas boiler), did a few small improvements but recently got Solar PV and it shot up to a B1, was shocked to say the least! Attic insulation 300mm, basic heating controls, chinmey capped top and bottom, LED lights, nothing major and original double glazed windows. No other insulation changes.


Advertisement