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Tubeless road - it actually works

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    #482
    CantGetNoSleep
    Registered Users Posts: 7,221 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    Today I fitted a tubeless tire to a new wheel and it actually worked first time.

    Rims came tubeless ready so popped in valve, mounted tire, pumped through valve core (I do have a tubeless pump), put in valve and pumped again with a foot pump to check, deflated and removed valve core, put in sealant, valve core back in, pumped again, done.

    Five minute job like you see on YouTube. Not sure if it was the fact that it was new rims and tires, the specific rim and tire combo, pure luck, or as I suspect, all of the above.


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    #483
    harringtonp
    Registered Users Posts: 2,563 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    Well done. People's experience with tubeless does vary enormously.

    What wheel and tire did you have ?


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    #484
    ratracer
    Registered Users Posts: 3,226 ✭✭✭ratracer


    I’ve gotten ~4K km out of my original Mavic Yksion front tyre that came with the wheelset, only changed the sealant once on that time. I haven’t been so lucky with the rear though. The original tyre blistered badly after 1500km, I replaced it with the same, which had the same problem after 1000km. I never punctured either of them though.
    When replacing the Mavic, I decided to try the Conti GP5000, as I’ve used Conti on all my other wheels (tubular) without issue! No matter what I tried, I couldn’t get it in the rim, so that was put out to pasture.
    Tyre number 4 was a Schwalbe Pro One, which fitted easily enough to the rim, but punctured on its first spin out. I didn’t think the hole was that big, but it wouldn’t seal at all, so I had to take the tire off and put in a tube on the roadside. Trying to get the tire back on was a balls, ended up breaking the levers, and for the first time ever, had to call MrsRR to come get me! I patched the tire when I got home, but the sidewall is peppered with little pin holes that also don’t want to seal, so I have little confidence in taking it on the road again.

    I’ve now ordered a set of these Hutchinson All Season, for €75 delivered,
    https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Hutchinson/Fusion-5-All-Season-11-Storm-Tubeless-Tyre-Bundle/KJMK, so I hope whenever they arrive, I might have a bit more luck with them heading into spring!


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    #485
    CantGetNoSleep
    Registered Users Posts: 7,221 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    My own experience varies enormously, although this is now my third bike on tubeless. In the past I possibly haven't cleaned away the old sealant enough

    DT Swiss P1800 wheelset (from the Bargain Alerts thread here). Schwalbe Pro One 28mm tires (but not the latest version with the red logo, the ones before that)


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    #486
    manafana
    Registered Users Posts: 3,484 ✭✭✭manafana


    ratracer wrote: »
    I’ve gotten ~4K km out of my original Mavic Yksion front tyre that came with the wheelset, only changed the sealant once on that time. I haven’t been so lucky with the rear though. The original tyre blistered badly after 1500km, I replaced it with the same, which had the same problem after 1000km. I never punctured either of them though.
    When replacing the Mavic, I decided to try the Conti GP5000, as I’ve used Conti on all my other wheels (tubular) without issue! No matter what I tried, I couldn’t get it in the rim, so that was put out to pasture.
    Tyre number 4 was a Schwalbe Pro One, which fitted easily enough to the rim, but punctured on its first spin out. I didn’t think the hole was that big, but it wouldn’t seal at all, so I had to take the tire off and put in a tube on the roadside. Trying to get the tire back on was a balls, ended up breaking the levers, and for the first time ever, had to call MrsRR to come get me! I patched the tire when I got home, but the sidewall is peppered with little pin holes that also don’t want to seal, so I have little confidence in taking it on the road again.

    I’ve now ordered a set of these Hutchinson All Season, for €75 delivered,
    https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Hutchinson/Fusion-5-All-Season-11-Storm-Tubeless-Tyre-Bundle/KJMK, so I hope whenever they arrive, I might have a bit more luck with them heading into spring!

    their are tubeless levers which i think i will invest in, also the plugs seem good idea to patch any major seals once home to stop them opening again.

    I used the hutchinsons as they are makers of mavic tyres


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    #487
    CantGetNoSleep
    Registered Users Posts: 7,221 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    manafana wrote: »
    their are tubeless levers which i think i will invest in, also the plugs seem good idea to patch any major seals once home to stop them opening again.

    I used the hutchinsons as they are makers of mavic tyres

    I've got parktool tubeless levers which work well. I try to get on by hand as much as possible as apparently levers can damage the bead but I never succeed.

    If there is a hole that is not sealing, you can patch the tire from the inside as you would a tube. You need to remove fully though, I've tried to do it by unseating one side and it doesn't work as well. Super glue in through the hole from the outside can help too apparently.

    I've got 2000km on a pair of Schwalbe Pro Ones. Front needed patching once (thankfully that puncture was 3km from home - piece of glass), rear probably needs replacing now, I was going to patch it but there are four or five decently sized nicks in it (none of which disturbed me out on the road at all)


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    #488
    koutoubia
    Registered Users Posts: 2,262 ✭✭✭koutoubia


    ratracer wrote: »
    I’ve gotten ~4K km out of my original Mavic Yksion front tyre that came with the wheelset, only changed the sealant once on that time. I haven’t been so lucky with the rear though. The original tyre blistered badly after 1500km, I replaced it with the same, which had the same problem after 1000km. I never punctured either of them though.
    When replacing the Mavic, I decided to try the Conti GP5000, as I’ve used Conti on all my other wheels (tubular) without issue! No matter what I tried, I couldn’t get it in the rim, so that was put out to pasture.
    Tyre number 4 was a Schwalbe Pro One, which fitted easily enough to the rim, but punctured on its first spin out. I didn’t think the hole was that big, but it wouldn’t seal at all, so I had to take the tire off and put in a tube on the roadside. Trying to get the tire back on was a balls, ended up breaking the levers, and for the first time ever, had to call MrsRR to come get me! I patched the tire when I got home, but the sidewall is peppered with little pin holes that also don’t want to seal, so I have little confidence in taking it on the road again.

    I’ve now ordered a set of these Hutchinson All Season, for €75 delivered,
    https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Hutchinson/Fusion-5-All-Season-11-Storm-Tubeless-Tyre-Bundle/KJMK, so I hope whenever they arrive, I might have a bit more luck with them heading into spring!
    Have a look at IRC Formula pro tlr tyres.
    Have a set that done 1400 kms with one tiny hole on the front that sealed with orange seal.A bit slow but I have full confindence in them.


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    #489
    harringtonp
    Registered Users Posts: 2,563 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    I'm on the market for a set of tubeless winter wheels. For variety, looking to move some training to smaller rougher roads so looking for a bit of extra comfort. Ideally most of the following criteria would be met

    - must be 10 speed compatible
    - good spokes, Sapim double butted race or CX ray
    - easily serviceable hubs
    - take 25mm and 28mm tires
    - Strong but not overly heavy, less than 1700g
    - fits a good range of tubeless tyres
    - less than 450 euro

    Anyone bought a set recently fitting these criteria ? Link appreciated

    Just edit in a couple of extra requirements

    - rim brake
    - alu


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    #490
    Birka
    Registered Users Posts: 254 ✭✭Birka


    harringtonp wrote: »
    I'm on the market for a set of tubeless winter wheels. For variety, looking to move some training to smaller rougher roads so looking for a bit of extra comfort. Ideally most of the following criteria would be met

    - must be 10 speed compatible
    - good spokes, Sapim double butted race or CX ray
    - easily serviceable hubs
    - take 25mm and 28mm tires
    - Strong but not overly heavy, less than 1700g
    - fits a good range of tubeless tyres
    - less than 450 euro

    Anyone bought a set recently fitting these criteria ? Link appreciated

    I've bought a pair of Scribe 365-D alloy disc rims (https://scribecycling.eu/collections/alloy-disc/products/scribe365). They use Sapim d-light double butted spokes with brass nipples, 1586g official and a 19mm internal rim. I fitted a pair of GP5000 tubeless tyres with went on with minimal struggle (I did have to use tubeless tyre levers to get the last bit on) and was able to pump them up using just a floor pump. The rear sealed first time without sealant and held pressure overnight, the front leaked slightly without sealant. Removing and refitting the front tyre was no problem with tubeless levers and I'd be happy that I could do it at the roadside without issue. I put an extra layer of tubeless tape on the front and it then held pressure overnight without sealant.

    Scribe service was excellent and very responsive to queries.

    The wheels roll well and feel robust although its early days yet. Hunt might be another option for you although they don't use Sapim spokes.

    Either option will probably involve some additional Brexit-related charges....


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    #491
    who_ru
    Registered Users Posts: 2,033 ✭✭✭who_ru


    ratracer wrote: »
    I’ve gotten ~4K km out of my original Mavic Yksion front tyre that came with the wheelset, only changed the sealant once on that time. I haven’t been so lucky with the rear though. The original tyre blistered badly after 1500km, I replaced it with the same, which had the same problem after 1000km. I never punctured either of them though.
    When replacing the Mavic, I decided to try the Conti GP5000, as I’ve used Conti on all my other wheels (tubular) without issue! No matter what I tried, I couldn’t get it in the rim, so that was put out to pasture.
    Tyre number 4 was a Schwalbe Pro One, which fitted easily enough to the rim, but punctured on its first spin out. I didn’t think the hole was that big, but it wouldn’t seal at all, so I had to take the tire off and put in a tube on the roadside. Trying to get the tire back on was a balls, ended up breaking the levers, and for the first time ever, had to call MrsRR to come get me! I patched the tire when I got home, but the sidewall is peppered with little pin holes that also don’t want to seal, so I have little confidence in taking it on the road again.

    I’ve now ordered a set of these Hutchinson All Season, for €75 delivered,
    https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Hutchinson/Fusion-5-All-Season-11-Storm-Tubeless-Tyre-Bundle/KJMK, so I hope whenever they arrive, I might have a bit more luck with them heading into spring!
    i have the mavic ksyrium wheelset (aluminum 1650g ), but only put about 1000km on them so far, i also bought two replacement tyres for the set. so far they have been bullet proof but i never let the sealant go dry. i inflate them to a max 80psi.



    i have a Giant carbon wheel set as well, with Giant stock tyres. One puncture on the rear, more a cut by glass, but thankfully close to home. The front got a pinch flat but sealed nicely and i'm still rolling around on that tyre.


    good luck with the hutchinson, let us know how you get on. I'm tempted to buy Pirelli P Zero next time just to see how they go.


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    #492
    harringtonp
    Registered Users Posts: 2,563 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    Birka wrote: »
    I've bought a pair of Scribe 365-D alloy disc rims (https://scribecycling.eu/collections/alloy-disc/products/scribe365). They use Sapim d-light double butted spokes with brass nipples, 1586g official and a 19mm internal rim. I fitted a pair of GP5000 tubeless tyres with went on with minimal struggle (I did have to use tubeless tyre levers to get the last bit on) and was able to pump them up using just a floor pump. The rear sealed first time without sealant and held pressure overnight, the front leaked slightly without sealant. Removing and refitting the front tyre was no problem with tubeless levers and I'd be happy that I could do it at the roadside without issue. I put an extra layer of tubeless tape on the front and it then held pressure overnight without sealant.

    Scribe service was excellent and very responsive to queries.

    The wheels roll well and feel robust although its early days yet. Hunt might be another option for you although they don't use Sapim spokes.

    Either option will probably involve some additional Brexit-related charges....

    Thanks for this. They would seem to be the best value wheels I have come across this time round. For my purposes

    https://scribecycling.eu/collections/alloy-disc/products/scribe365

    looks like a great wheel if I were to fully trust the Sapin D-light spokes. They're undoubtedly a good spoke but I have CX-Ray on a set of carbon wheels, have hit potholes racing and they're still as solid as ever. So I've built up a trust in the CX-Ray's and for this reason would likely tend towards

    https://scribecycling.eu/collections/alloy-disc/products/duty-1-587g

    Still light for a winter wheel and with the 28/32 spoke count and high weight limit, I should have plenty in reserve.

    A couple of questions. I gather most of their wheels use the same proprietary hub. How long have you been using your wheels and have you had any issues with the hubs ? Would you know if they are easily serviceable ?


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    #493
    Birka
    Registered Users Posts: 254 ✭✭Birka


    harringtonp wrote: »
    Thanks for this. They would seem to be the best value wheels I have come across this time round. For my purposes

    https://scribecycling.eu/collections/alloy-disc/products/scribe365

    looks like a great wheel if I were to fully trust the Sapin D-light spokes. They're undoubtedly a good spoke but I have CX-Ray on a set of carbon wheels, have hit potholes racing and they're still as solid as ever. So I've built up a trust in the CX-Ray's and for this reason would likely tend towards

    https://scribecycling.eu/collections/alloy-disc/products/duty-1-587g

    Still light for a winter wheel and with the 28/32 spoke count and high weight limit, I should have plenty in reserve.

    A couple of questions. I gather most of their wheels use the same proprietary hub. How long have you been using your wheels and have you had any issues with the hubs ? Would you know if they are easily serviceable ?

    The Duty wheel that you linked to looks like a great option for the use that you describe. I haven’t my Scribe wheels long so I can’t vouch for their longevity. There’s a video on their website showing bearing replacement- it seems straightforward.

    If you want to spend more, I can thorough recommend these:

    https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/collections/road-rim-brake-wheelsets/products/borg31-wheelset

    I have a set and they’ve been absolutely bombproof through all conditions over approx 5,000km. I hit a lowish kerb head on in the dark one morning and apart from a slight distortion on that rim that can really only be felt under braking, they shrugged off the impact.

    The Scribe wheels would save you a good bit over the Borgs and should be just as robust given the higher spoke count.


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    #494
    harringtonp
    Registered Users Posts: 2,563 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    Birka wrote: »
    The Duty wheel that you linked to looks like a great option for the use that you describe. I haven’t my Scribe wheels long so I can’t vouch for their longevity. There’s a video on their website showing bearing replacement- it seems straightforward.

    Looked at that video at

    https://scribecycling.eu/pages/hub-servicing

    Could probably get around drifting bearings in and out without specific tools using a socketset, however 52 seconds in they use a "ratchet removal tool" to get at the bearings. This will need some figuring out as bearings will go at some point.


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    #495
    Birka
    Registered Users Posts: 254 ✭✭Birka


    harringtonp wrote: »
    Looked at that video at

    https://scribecycling.eu/pages/hub-servicing

    Could probably get around drifting bearings in and out without specific tools using a socketset, however 52 seconds in they use a "ratchet removal tool" to get at the bearings. This will need some figuring out as bearings will go at some point.

    Maybe the Park FR-3 would fit it - Scribe should be able to confirm

    https://www.wiggle.co.uk/park-tool-freewheel-remover-fr-3?lang=en&curr=EUR&dest=6&sku=100673052&kpid=100673052&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Shopping+-+All+Products&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mkwid%7CsCe7X9IKj_dm%7Cpcrid%7C315058293977%7Cpkw%7C%7Cpmt%7C%7Cprd%7C100673052ie%7C&pgrid=68384414771&ptaid=pla-523099107836


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    #496
    68 lost souls
    Registered Users Posts: 3,983 ✭✭✭68 lost souls


    Apologies if its already been answered, wanted peoples opinions. Its overdue time to check/change my sealant. I'm using mucoff sealent, can I just remove the valve core, draw out whats init to check levels and top up the syringe then reinject or do I have to remove the tyre completely , clean it al lup and put a fresh batch in?

    Tyres were an absolute nightmare to get on so dont want to have that argument again if I dont have to.


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    #497
    CantGetNoSleep
    Registered Users Posts: 7,221 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    68 lost souls wrote: »
    Apologies if its already been answered, wanted peoples opinions. Its overdue time to check/change my sealant. I'm using mucoff sealent, can I just remove the valve core, draw out whats init to check levels and top up the syringe then reinject or do I have to remove the tyre completely , clean it al lup and put a fresh batch in?

    Tyres were an absolute nightmare to get on so dont want to have that argument again if I dont have to.

    I always just top up through the valve core. Tubeless tires don't last years so it shouldn't be any problem just topping up every few months then giving the rim a good clean when you go about changing the tire


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    #498
    Birka
    Registered Users Posts: 254 ✭✭Birka


    Use a small cable tie as a dipstick into the valve core to gauge sealant levels (valve nearest the ground) and then top up if you need to.

    If you let the wheel turn freely it should settle with the valve closest to the ground as that's usually the heaviest part of the rim. If the valve stops elsewhere then another part of the wheel is heavier and you may have a clump of sealant at that point. That'd justify removing the tyre to clean it all up, otherwise best and easier to leave it on.


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    #499
    andy69
    Registered Users Posts: 661 ✭✭✭andy69


    68 lost souls wrote: »
    Apologies if its already been answered, wanted peoples opinions. Its overdue time to check/change my sealant. I'm using mucoff sealent, can I just remove the valve core, draw out whats init to check levels and top up the syringe then reinject or do I have to remove the tyre completely , clean it al lup and put a fresh batch in?

    Tyres were an absolute nightmare to get on so dont want to have that argument again if I dont have to.

    guys in the bike shop told me when I asked about that particular scenario, that most of the sealant is water (or water-based...whatever), and over time it will evapourate and I can just refill it and not worry about the remains of the sealent as it'll basically have just dried up. No need to unmount and remount tyres.
    It was one of the things putting me off switching to TL - the thoughts of unmounting, scrubbing, and the awful* job of remounting.



    *I say 'awful' after I had watched a video from GP Lama (I think) attempting to make a switch of tyres, and the remount of a used tyre was just a non-runner, no matter what he tried. Tyre walls stcking to each other etc etc :(


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    #500
    and still ricky villa
    Registered Users Posts: 1,164 ✭✭✭and still ricky villa


    544116.jpg

    Might be a bit of a thick question but I've a tubeless rear disc (rim brake) that has just arrived without valves. It did come with the crack pipe extension. I'm planning on using a MilkIt set up

    What would folks recommend? 35mm?
    I've 75mm between the inside of the rim and the top of the gap in the disc cover. Hopefully the pic helps explain what I mean


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    #501
    Effects
    Registered Users Posts: 9,761 ✭✭✭Effects


    I'm looking at replacing the tubeless tyres that came with my Giant gravel bike. They were working fine until Christmas, I got a new track pump, and inflated to 70psi, with a recommended 75psi on the tyre.
    Ended up getting a big bubble, and due to it being Christmas, I just used some duck tape on it. Got a few decent cycles in over the period.
    Few more bubbles popped up, but as I wasn't cycling a lot due to lockdown, I didn't worry about them too much.

    Anyway, one of them popped at the weekend, and sealant plugged it up thankfully. Not a good long term solution though.
    What do people recommend to replace them with?
    I'm thinking PANARACER GRAVEL KING or CONTINENTAL Terra Speed ProTection Cross/Gravel Tyre.
    I have Schwalbe G-Ones on a bike I keep abroad, but they came with tubes, and I've had multiple punctures on them.

    I don't do a massive amount off road, as I'm based in Dublin city, but want something that's still capable when I cycle by road to get somewhere to go offroad.


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    #502
    Underpinner
    Registered Users Posts: 89 ✭✭Underpinner


    I've been using G-One Tubeless for about 18 months. I've had to replace the back tyre in the last couple of weeks. I'd say it had somewhere short of 6k on it, a 30mm tyre. It began to have an increasing number of puntuctures, all of which sealed - except for one, which needed a plug. The front tyre is still going. I replaced the back with a G-One speed Evolution tyre which is TLE - tubeless easy. Like a lot of people I've struggled to mount tubless tyres but this one went on as easy as a rim brake tyre. It popped at 60psi on an ordinary track pump. Tubeless Nirvana.

    I really like G-Ones though the variety of them is confusing. I've Pro-One tublesss on another bike really like them but they would not be as robust as G-Ones. Like yourself I don't do a massive amount of off road but I would recommend the G-Ones.


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    #503
    Resoguy
    Registered Users Posts: 41 ✭Resoguy


    Effects wrote: »
    I'm looking at replacing the tubeless tyres that came with my Giant gravel bike. They were working fine until Christmas, I got a new track pump, and inflated to 70psi, with a recommended 75psi on the tyre.
    Ended up getting a big bubble, and due to it being Christmas, I just used some duck tape on it. Got a few decent cycles in over the period.
    Few more bubbles popped up, but as I wasn't cycling a lot due to lockdown, I didn't worry about them too much.

    Anyway, one of them popped at the weekend, and sealant plugged it up thankfully. Not a good long term solution though.
    What do people recommend to replace them with?
    I'm thinking PANARACER GRAVEL KING or CONTINENTAL Terra Speed ProTection Cross/Gravel Tyre.
    I have Schwalbe G-Ones on a bike I keep abroad, but they came with tubes, and I've had multiple punctures on them.

    I don't do a massive amount off road, as I'm based in Dublin city, but want something that's still capable when I cycle by road to get somewhere to go offroad.


    I have a set of 37mm WTB Riddler tyres on since last September and haven't had a problem, centre thread is wearing a little more than I'd like maybe, they are light enough so are working out as a good allrounder for road and trails. I'm about 85kgs on a good day and would use ~40psi(front)/45psi(back) tubeless for a road only spin or 25/30psi for mixed road/trail spin, not sure I could hack 70psi now.

    I have a set of 38mm slick GravelKing Plus tyres which i'd use if I was going to do a long road spin/audax, they can take a bit of punishment on trials also.


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    #504
    fat bloke
    Registered Users Posts: 5,829 ✭✭✭fat bloke


    I've been idly googling sealant use in tubular tyres. Has anyone here any experience of that? With tubs gone out of fashion there can be great deals on wheels and tyres. I wonder if they're a viable alternative?


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    #505
    aidan61
    Registered Users Posts: 6 ✭aidan61


    fat bloke wrote: »
    I've been idly googling sealant use in tubular tyres. Has anyone here any experience of that? With tubs gone out of fashion there can be great deals on wheels and tyres. I wonder if they're a viable alternative?

    A set of Zipp 404 Tubs is what you need? :)


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    #506
    Rogue-Trooper
    Registered Users Posts: 1,854 ✭✭✭Rogue-Trooper


    Was out yesterday struggling up an incline and heard the unmistakable sound of a tubeless puncture on the front and the fst-fst-fst of the sealant struggling to seal the hole as the wheel rotated. I figured I had better stop and see if it needed to be plugged before I lost too much pressure and coated my frame in sticky white goop.

    Do you think I could find the hole though? Nope. Examined every inch of the tyre and no sign of a hole or escaping sealant. There was a bit of a headwind so thought it might have been a trick of the wind and it was coming from the rear wheel. Nope, no sign.:confused:

    Gave up and got back on the bike to head off again but the fst-fst-fst noise started again before I started moving..........only to realise it was in fact a guy at the side of the house I was stopped outside washing his car with a power washer.........I didn't have a puncture at all.........I do, however, need my hearing tested.........:o:o


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    #507
    DJB030244
    Registered Users Posts: 84 ✭✭DJB030244


    Decided to put a set of mavic 28mm tubeless tyres onto hunt aero 38 carbon wheels yesterday
    The easiest set of tubeless tyres I’ve ever fitted . Tyres easily on and went up first time
    I use a lifeline Airblast tubeless pump and it was painless . I’ve probably done over twenty sets of tubeless on gravel cx or road . Checked pressure this morning and it’s perfect
    Sometimes the tyre and wheel combo work really well together .


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    #508
    harringtonp
    Registered Users Posts: 2,563 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    True. The last 2 tires I've fitted on my Carbon 50mm rims have been Contintental 5000 TL. They are harder to put on than Schwalbe Pro Ones but unlike the Pro Ones I've been able to just pump the straight up without using the chamber.


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    #509
    fat bloke
    Registered Users Posts: 5,829 ✭✭✭fat bloke


    This flashed up on my suggested reading today

    https://www.cyclingweekly.com/products/the-unfortunate-incident-of-the-failing-tubeless-tyre-sealant

    It fairly accurately describes my tubeless experience - that they're great until they're not.

    Is this tubeless revolution a fait accompli now or what can the it-ain't-broke-stop-tryin'-to-fix-its do for themselves? Have tube manufacturers anything to say about it? When shopping for a set of wheels now, when you filter out for rim brake only, and then remove the "TL's" and the "TLR's" there's precious little left and even less again in stock. Are wheel and tyre manufacturers all on this one, same page now and driving forward with the demise of the tried and tested wheel+tube+tyre fit by hand system that has been shown to work for years and years now?

    I've salted away a little buffer / bunker for myself the last few years, I've bikes, wheelsets, tyres and tubes to do me for a lot of cycling to come, but I do wonder if it's an inevitability, or will disgruntled end-users call a halt at some stage?


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    #510
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,647 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    i thought TLR meant 'tubeless ready', thus compatible with both tubes and tubeless systems?

    i bought my first TLR tyre the other day and it explicitly says on the box that they can be run with tubes.


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    #511
    fat bloke
    Registered Users Posts: 5,829 ✭✭✭fat bloke


    magicbastarder wrote: »
    i thought TLR meant 'tubeless ready', thus compatible with both tubes and tubeless systems?

    i bought my first TLR tyre the other day and it explicitly says on the box that they can be run with tubes.

    Absolutely that's what it means, but in practice in my experience it can mean the worst of both worlds, trying to keep a foot in both camps. Difficult to mount for tubed use, difficult to mount and seal for tubeless use. Why the hell works anyone want both? It's like Heineken supplying a shot of pure alcohol with their 0% cans, in case anyone works like to throw it in. Making your tubeless system tube compatible is a admission of the flaws in your system right from the off :).


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