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Heat Pumps - post here.

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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,001 ✭✭✭mitresize5


    We're currently looking at this option.

    1980's house that needs complete refurb.

    At todays money it might be hard to justify but in our life time oil will either be defunct or prohibitively expensive.

    And then theres the environmental impact.

    So while it probably doesnt make sense financially now there are other considerations



  • Registered Users Posts: 13 gunggung69


    I have a friend (a Quantity Surveyor) who got an air source heat pump into a new build property earlier this year. He has since said that he wished he got oil due to the running costs. The technology still isn't 100% perfected.



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,120 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    Or the builder just built a sub standard house that’s leaking like a sieve! ;)


    heat pumps are not new. It’s the same technology as is in your fridge!



  • Registered Users Posts: 13 gunggung69


    from what I know my mate was absolutely on top of the builder for everything. he got that bead insulation blown in, balanced flues fitted and totally air tight windows and doors and one of those recirculating fan things instead of trickle vents. even with all that he said the electric costs were mental.



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,120 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    How much is "mental"?

    Could also be bad install, badly spec'd HP for size of house, faulty sensor etc etc.... but its not the fault of "heat pump technology". Plenty HP installs running with very low running costs. You're only as good as your builder and installer.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,876 ✭✭✭Borzoi


    A QS knows the price of everything, and the value of nothing.

    He's stood all over the builder, and ignored the gobshite plumber installing a HP and setting it up as he would a gas boiler. Biggest problem with heat pumps in this country is the people putting them in



  • Registered Users Posts: 388 ✭✭Biker1


    Totally agree. If a heat pump is designed,installed and commissioned correctly then the running costs will be very low in a house built to the proper standard. Sadly this is very often not the case.



  • Registered Users Posts: 352 ✭✭Snugbugrug28


    Ah I dunno about this to be honest. People say stuff. People also say don't get vaccinated too.



  • Registered Users Posts: 618 ✭✭✭handpref


    The technology is cutting edge, the systems operate on refrigeration circuits that are extremely efficient. The problem is with the ‘new builds’ and the installers. They work brilliantly when installed correctly and when the rest of the build is up to spec.

    As outlined before new builds may be built to A3 spec but going by the ones I’ve seen they are in no way air tight or properly insulated.

    The plumbers may put in underfloor piping and rads, the refrigeration tech will put in the heat pump and the sparks will provide the power to an isolater and controller.

    None of these guys will end up on site together as it’s all subbed out- the refrigeration guy can’t commission properly because he’s most likely not up to speed on the individual circuit flow rates. The one person who could help- the plumber won’t be around.

    Now nobody knows what the controller is doing or if it’s wired right to the motorised valves, the flow rates aren’t set up right so the system will run more than it should. The Delta T’s on each flow and return aren’t checked and the unit is just left running.

    In winter the heat pump will ice up because it’s running flat out, it will try put itself on a defrost but can’t defrost properly because it’s working too hard and freezes up again. Trying to defrost the outdoor coil sucks the heat indirectly from the rad circuit dropping the supply temp to your rads when you need it most and the cycle repeats itself, all the time burning through electricity.

    Having all your valves on the header labelled and your tradies on site at the same time working on a proper commissioning protocol will ensure things work well.

    However by that stage the lads are long gone, on another site or booting up the M1. Your QS or new home buyer is left with a system that more than likely wasn’t commissioned properly or to ISO standards, they probably didn’t receive the commissioning documents and chances are they don’t know a good fridge man and plumber that they can line up to sort it all out.



  • Registered Users Posts: 13 gunggung69


    electric bill when from €400 a qtr in his old house that was about the same size and had oil to about €3500 a quarter in this one



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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Although electric bills are usually 2 months..

    But that needs looked at. Something is not right. Either a) the bill, or b) the heat pump.

    I'll put it into context, 3500 a quarter, 120 days, to get that at 15c a unit - is 22500ish kwh/units (I'm counting pso levy and standing charge too)

    That works out as a constant load of 7.8kW! 24/7



  • Subscribers Posts: 41,592 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    €14,000 annual electrical bills for a family home??

    Nah, there's something seriously wrong there.


    Heat pumps are successfully installed into homes every day. If something like this happens, it's not the system that's at fault. It's either the design, installation, or general construction that's the problem.



  • Registered Users Posts: 13,942 ✭✭✭✭josip


    Maybe it's running in reverse, trying to heat the outside...



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,120 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    I'm calling BS on that. He's telling porkies or you are! ;)

    You're not a oil burner salesman are you?! 🤣



  • Registered Users Posts: 13 gunggung69


    I put him over this again. he said that the house took ages to heat up and to cool down so instead he just kept the heat on permanent and when it got too hot he opened the windows. Not surprised then with the bills he got.

    nah, not a oil burner sales man. its worse, I sell hospitality goods (napkins, cutlery etc to hotels) 🙈



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    :Facepalm:

    Well. There's the problem. Gonna give the guy the benefit of the doubt and say there could be some control issues with thermostats etc but the method he came to was akin to using a sledgehammer to crack a nut.



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,120 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    Basically its not properly commissioned/tested then. i.e. bad installer.

    And more importantly he's making a bad situation worse by leaving the pump running like it is. He can fully expect that it will burn out in short order and he'll have another large bill to deal with. No doubt he'll blame heat pump technology for that too.


    he said that the house took ages to heat up and to cool down

    Just to focus on this one... with a heat pump you dont have the house heating up and cooling down. The idea is that the system keeps the house at an even temp 24/7. There is no heating up and cooling down. Thats for oil burner systems.

    He needs to get an expert in and go over the entire install and commission it properly. If the bills truly are at €3500 per quarter (which I still dont believe tbh) the charges for getting the system fixed will be paid for within the first month.



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,423 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Let's see a copy of the bill, we don't bill quarterly here.

    Anything else is bs

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 70 ✭✭lyda


    I've had a heat pump since April and it's very cheap to run. Obviously it will run a fair bit more in winter, but I have a PV system to offset some of the cost.

    Has anyone here looked at microwind generation as a way to offset HP costs? It seems to me it's often windy when it's cold so it would work well.



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,120 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    Obviously it will run a fair bit more in winter, but I have a PV system to offset some of the cost.

    Dont count on that. The PV system wont be producing much, if any, excess during the winter when the heat pump is running the most. If it adds up to a pint of beer it will be alot! 😉



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  • Registered Users Posts: 659 ✭✭✭KevinK


    First time using a heat pump- still figuring out how it works and plumber meant to be doing a run through next week,


    But in the meantime- what temperature should the thermostat be set to?



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Depends if you like a warm house or a cool house.

    But anything from 18-22 ish. It's a set it and forget it sort of thing.

    The aim is just to keep the house at a constant temperature.



  • Registered Users Posts: 659 ✭✭✭KevinK


    Thanks - makes sense.


    Have been advided to avail of cheaper night time electricity. how does this work if the heat pump is always on? Is it simply the fact that the night time is colder?



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    I don't know the complete in and out of it but yeah generally it's at night when it's the coldest, while the heat pump is always on, doesn't mean it's running all the time, it just runs when needed to maintain the temperature.

    Depending on how everything is setup, it can run the domestic hot water on night rate etc. (Night rate runs from 12-9 am in the summer and 11pm - 8 in the winter)



  • Registered Users Posts: 151 ✭✭Michael_Myers


    An installer told me that it was practically impossible to get the SEAI grant for a heat pump ?

    He based this on the Technical Assessors reports (pre and post installation) and the property failing to reach required SEAI requirements / efficiencies in the majority of cases.

    Any experience of this ?



  • Subscribers Posts: 41,592 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    Its not hard for a property to reach the required HLI for the grant. in general most 2005 onwards houses will be there or thereabouts.

    however whats happening is if your just at the HLI levels, and you install a heat pump with rads, it becomes hard to reach the minimum 300% efficiency thats required for space heating, even with pretty decent of heat pumps.

    however it absolutely should not be left to "post installation" to confirm whether or not these levels will be met.

    the pre install assessment should be reflected in the actual carried out works... so the only way non compliance can come about is if someone changes the specification, or the heat pump designer / installer changes their calculations



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,423 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    This is complete b....x and sadly is 100% emblematic of many HP installers, who in many cases are plumbers not trained in HP tech or the rules of the game and are in cahoots with builders who complete shoddy work.

    This enables them to do crap fabric refurbs/ carp HP installs that don't work well and they all escape any accountability.

    As I said b....x

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 11,394 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    Recently got our heat pump serviced for the first time. We've a Dimplex A6M installed in 2017. Warranty expired this year so we have to start looking after the thing now

    We'd been getting a loud rattling noise from around the circulation pump whenever the heating was on, sounded like cavitation or turbulence. Since it only affected the heating circuit we decided to get it looked at before winter


    We'd also been getting a lot of F59 errors from the hot water, which is basically a timeout that the water didn't get hot enough in time

    The technician from Brefini reckoned it was the 3 way valve between the heating and hot water circuit. Ours was a solenoid type valve which they've stopped installing.

    Apparently the force of the flow of the water is enough to stop the valve from closing fully, hence the turbulence

    He replaced it with a rotary servo valve. Since then the system has been behaving itself, no noise or errors

    Just wish we'd gotten it sorted sooner. Anyway, I thought this might be of use for anyone with a Dimplex A class heat pump suffering from similar issues

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users Posts: 67 ✭✭niteowl1


    3200sq feet two-storey built in 2007 with underfloor. Have had an absolute disaster with geothermal. BER is B2 and Heat loss indicator figure is 1.85. Getting conflicting opinions regard oil or air to water? Would the underfloor drink oil? Any advice or experience please?



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