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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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    #4742
    Flaccus
    Registered Users Posts: 3,971 ✭✭✭Flaccus


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118026624#Comment_118026624

    Pass with compensation



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    #4743
    Flaccus
    Registered Users Posts: 3,971 ✭✭✭Flaccus


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118025143#Comment_118025143

    After consulting with an interior architect who is also a cyclist, black on celeste seat tube and celeste on black down tube is the preferred configuration with the added bonus that the carbon is painted on the inside of the celeste cages so bidons remain immaculate



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    #4744
    Flaccus
    Registered Users Posts: 3,971 ✭✭✭Flaccus


    Here's a maintenance question. I want my LBS to remove a 10mm spacer from my headset but still have top cap flush with bars. Bike is stock with a 35mm stack. The spacers are the clip in and out variety. The issue is whether they have to cut the steerer after which could be very messy as it could mean cutting hoses, removing the bar/stem if not enough slack.

    However if you look at the pics below you will see the top cap is hollow and taller than 10mm so should be just a matter of installing it after removing the spacer and no steerer cutting needed ?


    Here is the top cap. It is hollow.

    image.png


    And here is the spacer I want to remove

    image.png




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    #4745
    nicksnikita
    Registered Users Posts: 940 ✭✭✭nicksnikita


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118034366#Comment_118034366

    Depends how close the steerer tube already is to the bottom of the top cap.



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    #4746
    Flaccus
    Registered Users Posts: 3,971 ✭✭✭Flaccus


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118034572#Comment_118034572

    its not visible at all. So max 10mm tube would be exposed once you remove spacer.

    Post edited by Flaccus on


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    #4747
    Wildly Boaring
    Registered Users Posts: 3,645 ✭✭✭Wildly Boaring


    Not looked under a cap like that.

    But how does the cap for tightening the steerer tube work?

    In a standard tube you'd have to put the 10mm spacer back on above the bars to tighen the headtube.


    I see that there's space for the tube inside the hollow cap. But does the removed spacer have to fit too? And does it?



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    #4748
    07Lapierre
    Registered Users Posts: 8,242 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118034572#Comment_118034572

    The Topcap is used to compress the headset so the steerer tube/fork doesn't rattle. to do this, the steerer tube must be at least 3 or 4mm below the topcap. If you remove a 10mm spacer, the cap will drop by 10mm. Is the steerer tube currently 13/15mm below the topcap?



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    #4749
    Flaccus
    Registered Users Posts: 3,971 ✭✭✭Flaccus


    Thanks. I will have to have all that checked by LBS as I am not going to mess with it.

    This guy has top cap removed and my steerer is like this. Saw it when mechanic was installing dfly. No steerer tube visible.

    https://youtu.be/cHrsc7luIek

    image.png

    Looking at the video, to me it looks like the hollow top cap is used to preload the headset using a long bolt which threads into the expander plug.

    My guess is if I remove a 10mm spacer, I will be able to put the hollow top cap on with 10mm to spare.

    But I think the steerer tube will need to be cut in order to able to apply the preload.

    I found the instructions here :

    image.png


    Post edited by Flaccus on


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    #4750
    padyjoe
    Registered Users Posts: 1,194 ✭✭✭padyjoe


    IMG_20211019_111504[1].jpg
    IMG_20211019_110118[1].jpg
    IMG_20211019_110155[1].jpg

    Is this wheel failing me? The drive side locknut has come loose again, so I've taken the cassette off and met this. (EDIT:I have a feeling that chain was thrown between the cog and the spokes, as there are marks on the spider arms holding the last 3 cogs.)

    It's an 11 spd, does it need a spacer at all? (EDIT: yes, according to Shimano the HG600 11-34 needs to be fitted with a spacer on road hubs, mtb hubs go without it.)

    I'm thinking about a wheel upgrade. It's a low mileage secondhand bike(from a second hand), bb had to replaced already, now this. I'm a heavier rider, 91 kgs, but this is hardly overstretching an Attain SL 2020 weight limit.

    Am I right thinking that for proper tightening the axle should be withdrawn fully, drive side nipped up then after inserting the finishing touch is done on the non-drive side.

    Post edited by padyjoe on


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    #4751
    breezy1985
    Registered Users Posts: 25,729 ✭✭✭✭breezy1985


    Not sure if it counts as "maintenance" but I am gonna by my first pair of cycling shoes and wondering if all road shoes are pretty much the same or are there different types or things to look out for ?



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    #4752
    Wildly Boaring
    Registered Users Posts: 3,645 ✭✭✭Wildly Boaring


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118042508#Comment_118042508

    it's fairly obvious but make sure they fit

    Hard to buy online without trying a few pairs on.


    This chap sells shoes so gonna push people toward expensive ones, but he makes good points

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2BaRUajjMeg



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    #4753
    breezy1985
    Registered Users Posts: 25,729 ✭✭✭✭breezy1985


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118042714#Comment_118042714

    It's one of the few things I will definitely buy in a bike shop for the sake of the fit.

    It's stuff like the rigidness that I was worried about but the video covered all that.

    Thanks



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    #4754
    Brian?
    Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 21,192 Mod ✭✭✭✭Brian?


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118042508#Comment_118042508

    There are world of options. I would make sure not to buy online, but I have funny feet so need to try shoes on.

    what kind of pedals are you using? This decides how many screw holes you need. What’s your budget?

    they/them/theirs


    And so on, and so on …. - Slavoj Žižek




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    #4755
    breezy1985
    Registered Users Posts: 25,729 ✭✭✭✭breezy1985


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118046267#Comment_118046267

    Budget is cheap but still a good brand so level entry Sidi or similar. Pedals are one of the Shimano dual sided ones but not sure the spec right now



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    #4756
    flatface
    Registered Users Posts: 719 ✭✭✭flatface


    9ADA1056-33B8-4BBC-BF4C-980DB9D6F9CB.jpeg

    Hi I have an issue with my sons Frog bike. It had 8 speed and a tourney derailleur that always made a noise in gear 1. Problem is there is no b tension screw to adjust.

    I think there may be some way to adjust instead with the length or angle of the cable housing, any ideas?



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    #4757
    Elvis Hammond
    Registered Users Posts: 491 ✭✭Elvis Hammond


    Tourney FT type derailler? I can't find much specific info on it but yours seems to have a problem with the hanger position. Just compare it to this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BrNlDQ7ClLQ



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    #4758
    flatface
    Registered Users Posts: 719 ✭✭✭flatface


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118099473#Comment_118099473

    I think it’s similar to that model, yeh it doesn’t look setup right, but can’t quite figure it out myself. I think I might email frog and see what they can advise.



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    #4759
    Elvis Hammond
    Registered Users Posts: 491 ✭✭Elvis Hammond


    The derailler's a bit scuffed looking; probably the bike's been dropped on it. I'd loosen off or remove the hanger, & see if it can be located properly, or if something needs replacing.



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    #4760
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,418 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    looks like an RD-TY21 - based on a quick search on the shimano manuals site? no sign of a b-screw here.

    https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/storage/pdf/en/ev/RD-TY21-A/EV-RD-TY21-A-3445A.pdf



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    #4761
    flatface
    Registered Users Posts: 719 ✭✭✭flatface


    Yeh definitely no b-screw on it. Just not sure how to adjust without it. I see similar problem mentioned here: https://www.mtbr.com/threads/help-no-b-tension-screw-on-shimano-tourney-rear-derailluer-rd-ft30.863294/

    but not sure how the housing loop should be to adjust the angle.



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    #4762
    wersal gummage
    Registered Users Posts: 1,648 ✭✭✭wersal gummage


    Mudguard question...


    Asked one of these before and no answer so I'm guessing limited interest again but would appreciate any input..


    Does anyone have experience of fitting a front mudguard with a daruma bolt rather than an L bracket? If so I have a question or two!



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    #4763
    Luxman
    Registered Users Posts: 937 ✭✭✭Luxman


    Chainring Question,


    I have a worn out 52/36 combo, need to replace it. I want to keep the 36 (for hills) and bump the 52 to a 53. Its an older version Ultegra 6800 di2 setup. Will the front derailleur need adjusting (height) for this? Thanks



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    #4764
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,418 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    i think that's officially not supported, but i can't see a huge issue - except that you're gaining really very little there? less than 2% difference. do you max out the 52 much?



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    #4765
    Luxman
    Registered Users Posts: 937 ✭✭✭Luxman


    ah not really max out no, but thought I would gain a bigger difference with the 53. I will still with the 52 , thanks



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    #4766
    Elvis Hammond
    Registered Users Posts: 491 ✭✭Elvis Hammond


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118101745#Comment_118101745

    The derailer in your photo has been knocked back clockwise where the black part attaches to the shiny grey part. The cable loop I'd say will be fine once this is remedied.



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    #4767
    devonp
    Registered Users Posts: 814 ✭✭✭devonp


    Disc brake pad replacement ....


    have the old Sram Apex 1x pads out and have the new kit (pads same type organic resin, spring, bolt/screw and circlip) do i need to push back the pistons ?

    and if so can i use a plastic tyre lever (or 2 tied together) ?



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    #4768
    Raymzor
    Registered Users Posts: 350 ✭✭Raymzor


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118040905#Comment_118040905

    Hi there, did you buy new wheels? If so what did you buy? I was thinking of changing the wheels on my attain! Cheers



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    #4769
    ARX
    Registered Users Posts: 586 ✭✭✭ARX


    My Wippermann Connex quick link came apart on the road (I stopped at a traffic light and noticed that my chain was hanging off). Anyone have one of these fail? I had a spare KMC link so was able to get home.



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    #4770
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,418 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    new issue on the bike today, out on the winter bike for the first time in two weeks and the downshift on the right shifter would fail most of the time - it'd usually work on the third or fourth attempt. almost feels like the downshift lever was not connected to any mechanism. i haven't had a chance to look at it, but i suspect the two main things to check would be an issue with the shifter itself or maybe the cable is sticking in the housing - as the downshift is a release of tension, maybe if the cable doesn't move, the shifter would feel like that as there's no tension in the cable to pull on the mechanism to operate it?



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    #4771
    crosstownk
    Registered Users Posts: 12,863 ✭✭✭✭crosstownk


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118237691#Comment_118237691

    I'm experiencing similar with my Shimano 105 5800 set up when I attempt to release tension. It's happening with both levers despite fairly new cables and mechs. I was putting it down to my clumsy fingers now that I'm wearing bulky winter gloves.

    Untitled Image




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