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Solar PV Hints, Tips & Troubleshooting

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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,606 ✭✭✭THE ALM


    Have updated the installed capacity thread with details.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,606 ✭✭✭THE ALM


    For those running home assistant there is a solis integration and a myenergi integration that might be of interest.

    Just playing around with them at the moment but should be good to integrate into the home assistant energy integration and pull various statistics and keep an eye on how things are performing.




  • Registered Users Posts: 261 ✭✭S'


    That's great. My 7.1kW system is currently being installed. I have home assistant setup already so will be good to get all data into HA.

    11.2kWp E/W split arra. Mayo



  • Registered Users Posts: 736 ✭✭✭BuzzFish


    Looks great. Using HA myself. Pity the https://app.electricitymap.org/map has broken in the last couple of weeks to get non-fossil data. I had a look but no idea how to fix..



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,991 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    Not to be an arse but you don't have a 7.1kW system, your system will be limited to your inverter size, like most of us you are oversizing which is the right way to go, I'm 7.4kWp but a 6kW system, might have hit 6kW maybe for an hour tops over the last year

    My stuff for sale on Adverts inc. EDDI, hot water cylinder, roof rails...

    Public Profile active ads for slave1 (adverts.ie)



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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,493 ✭✭✭ECO_Mental


    Cool thanks, just got my PV system up running mid October (and moved into my new build house) and I really want to get a better handle of my energy consumption and use my PV to the max. I have a Solis inverter but their online portal isn't the greatest.

    Anyway Santa Claus is getting me a Raspberry Pi4 for christmas and Im going to dive into Home Assistant over the holidays so this link is great.

    6.1kWp south facing, South of Cork City



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,469 ✭✭✭MAULBROOK


    Did you have to piss on his parade, just let him enjoy the moment.



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,165 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    New BER completed. Now an A3 rating 😎



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,606 ✭✭✭THE ALM


    That will keep you busy over Christmas, down the home assistant rabbit hole😁



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,469 ✭✭✭MAULBROOK


    Now go off and get a green mortgage from AIB. I did and saved a shxt load. Had to move from ulster Bank anyway.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 547 ✭✭✭Blue4u


    What is your plan for the integration? do you plan on turning on or trying to get items to turn on if excess power is generated?



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,165 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    Already in process of switching to Avant. Cheaper than even the "green" mortgages. 🤔



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,165 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan




  • Registered Users Posts: 1,606 ✭✭✭THE ALM


    That is the plan alright. Between home assistant and loxone most things are integrated into those systems so shouldn't be much work in setting up a few automations based on pv output.

    With the myenergi products any excess can be diverted there for now.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,710 ✭✭✭Deagol


    Anyone here expert enough to answer this one: I want to add 4-5 panels to me existing system. Currently I have 12x 340 Qcell panels on one string of my inverter - a Solis 5Kw 4G Hybrid. They are facing south but get shadowed badly at this time of year.

    On the other string I have 7x Peimar 310watt panels roof mounted facing south west. I want to add 4-5 additional panels to this string. I can't get the Peimar panels so thinking of Qcell 350watts. I understand basic electrical principles and therefore that mixing the panels will cause some inefficiencies (as I can work it out, the 350watt panels will act as 310watt). That's fine with me!


    All I want to understand is if I can safely add panels to that string. Inverter says it can take 11A+11A so I can't see it's a problem. But I'm getting contradictory advise from a certain supply company in Dublin. They say it's not recommended - but they can't explain why (or rather they bluster about DC voltage being too high but they don't seem to be able to explain where exactly these limits on voltages are).


    Anyone?



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,606 ✭✭✭THE ALM


    Had an error thrown up today - Grid Over Frequency

    Wont know until I go home but looks like the power had been out for a period as I couldn't connect to any of the systems at home and looking at the solis online portal it would appear the frequency at this time was reading 0.02 whereas it would normally be 50hrz, assuming power outage would be reason for the error?

    Wouldn't normally have too many blackouts but time to get the backup power socket wired up.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,523 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    Similar thing came up on another discussion, Solis inverters (like most inverters) have a 600v limit per string.

    Datasheet_RHI-3-6K-48ES-5G.pdf (solartricity.ie)

    Each solar panel operates about 38-40V, and they are connected in series, so if you have 12 panels you are rocking about 456-480 volts already on that string. Your inverter probably has a PV Voltage telemetry. But you should be able to add 3 panels to that one safe enough

    Can you go above 600V? Possible for very brief periods but I wouldn't exceed it much. (610-620V would be all I'd push it)

    With the other string (your Peimar's) . I'd say getting panels to match the internal resistence is the key. Voltages should be ok I'd think, but I'd be interested to hear what others think also.



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,165 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    What time was this at? Big drop in grid frequency at at 15:56. One of the big plants must have tripped out.




  • Registered Users Posts: 1,606 ✭✭✭THE ALM


    Hi Jonathan,

    Occurred at 12:55 and rectified at 13:37

    EDIT: Will monitor the ac frequency in hassio and see how it goes.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,469 ✭✭✭MAULBROOK


    Just ask your installer if its worth it. Not an answer but if I have an issue or question they are always my first port of call.

    At the end of the day they are the experts.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,135 ✭✭✭championc


    Look at the spec sheet for the VOC voltage. Divide 600v by that to give the number of panels permitted on the string.

    Do NOT just take your current DC volts reading, because particularly in winter sun, that voltage level will shoot much higher than in summer

    So at 41v per panel, that would allow for 14 in a string. However, given that it's a dual string inverter, there may be a max amps level that you need to look at.

    So overall, look at the inverter DC Input Specs and ensure that you do not exceed any individual item



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,710 ✭✭✭Deagol


    I've managed to find the same panels so going to buy them instead of chancing mixing them and finding there's some incompatibility - thanks for the advise though all.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,456 ✭✭✭Evd-Burner


    Hi all,

    Long time lurker. I'm looking at a DIY install on my office/shed flat roof using the plastic renusol kit. Power is already pulled out with 2 spare cores for the solar to connect back to the main consumer unit.

    I can do 12x 410w panels with an E/W split, cost would be around 3750. My brother is an electrician so I don't really have any labour costs as I can do the panels and mounting in my own time and he the hook ups etc.

    I'm hoping to go from a C2 to at least a B3 so that I can remortgage my house to a green mortgage, ill have to get a ber done. I'm just wondering will ber take into account a DIY solar, is there documentation that's needs?

    Also could I get FIT with a DIY? I'm not going for a battery as I have an electric car with another on the way.

    thanks.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,135 ✭✭✭championc


    Good chance that BER will only be linked to installs which have been registered with be ESB with the NC6 cert. And your bro can be nominated on that - nothing needs to be "signed off".

    And get your bro to register for a trade account with Midsummer or Solartricity. It's worth about 20% saving on website prices



  • Registered Users Posts: 561 ✭✭✭idc


    My BER assessor had only done solar thermal panels before so my PV installer sent me and him details he required. From email exchange the main thing was info for the panels. Full spec and photo of back of one with name/id plate. Best plan line up some one to do your BER and check with them what is required?



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,456 ✭✭✭Evd-Burner


    Thanks for the responses and sorry for the late reply.

    If it's just the NC6 and then inverter/panel details I can keep all documentation (NC6 response and equipment receipts/spec sheets) and do it that way so. Will reach out to an assessor prior to installing.

    On the account registration what would midsummer/solartricity actually look for?



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,135 ✭✭✭championc


    On the account registration what would midsummer/solartricity actually look for?


    I think they only want a company registration number. Don't think a vat number is necessary since not everyone would be registered for vat. Just contact them and ask to be setup with a trade account



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,204 ✭✭✭irishchris


    Picked up a 6kw Solis hybrid this evening and will be fitting it tomorrow to replace my previous 3.6kw. just wondering for those who have 6kw inverters what size rcbo breaker have you fitted. I have a 20 amp in my consumer unit from the 3.6 KW but thinking this may not suffice now especially in fully production months?



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,165 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    My 5kW Solis wired back to CU using 6mm2 cable and is on a 32A MCB. Per the datasheet, the Solis 6kW has a max input/output current of 26.1A (and I've seen my inverter pull close to this when force charging the battery from grid at 100A DC).

    Before increasing the size of your RCBO, you need to check the of the cable run to the CU. Remember the overcurrent protection provided by the RCBO/MCB is there to protect the cable, not the device. 6mm2 would be preferable, but 4mm2 could also work, depending on how it runs from CU to inverter.

    If a 20A RCBO was used originally, it is probably 2.5mm2 cable. If that is the case, it will very tight. The current carrying capacity of 2.5mm2 cable is 20A if embedded in an insulating wall, but can accommodate 27A if clipped direct. The problem you will face is that you can't get a 27A RCBO, only 20A or 25A. Both of which are technically too small for max input/output current of inverter

    In practice however, a 25A RCBO will probably be fine (provided that the 2.5mm2 cable is clipped direct). The trip curve is such that it is very unlikely that overcurrent trips will occur.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,204 ✭✭✭irishchris


    It was a 6mm SWA 3 core that I ran but would be a 30m length underground and surface mounted between inverter and the consumer unit. It was originally a 3.6kw inverter (15.7A) that my electrician used a 20A rcbo but with new inverter able to go to 26.1A that is not going to cut it. I also have 10kw battery attached which will be charged/discharged now at up to 100A

    So would you suggest a 32A rcbo in this scenario. Also is there a particular rcbo to be used? B or C?



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