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Tinkering; Like Guntering for the Connected Generation.

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,070 ✭✭✭Kevhog1988


    Can put up mine if anyone needs them or can build others if anyone has a good idea. Lad i work with is an absolute genius on excel and ive been picking up a lot off him.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,224 ✭✭✭✭wrangler


    We've a prattley scales here, a great job, it reads records and give the ADG while the lamb's in the scales, I had to agree to buy it years ago to get a new jeep over the line here. Because lambs aren't handled in the scales they just run in and out of it on their own, even fighting to get into it,



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,204 ✭✭✭emaherx


    I made up an Electric Fence monitor and was testing it this evening. It is actually just to read the flash on an electric fence signal light, so I've been testing it with Christmas tree lights 🎄. I should have a few ready for when cattle go back out in spring, probably needs some tweaks to sampling time to conserve battery life and Data usage.

    .



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,204 ✭✭✭emaherx


    I added a touch screen in the Kitchen, with access to Home Assistant to monitor the House and Farm.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,204 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Electric Fence Monitor ready for some field testing.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 474 ✭✭pms7


    What kind of motion sensors do you use? Any issue with false alarms?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,556 ✭✭✭✭AckwelFoley


    I use a WiFi sensor. They are technically an indoor sensor but I mount them in an outdoor junction box leaving only the sensor dome exposed.


    The dome is then covered by a piece of 40mm wavin waste pipe cut at 25mm len which narrows the field of detection.

    As for false alarms, they are rare as I always install them in pairs in the avenues where I have them. So, both sensors need to be activated within 30 seconds inorder to trigger an event, ie, notify me or complete a command. In one avenue, the sensor is about 10m from the first, in the other, its about 20m and actually working off a different wifi network.


    I use a pretty basic smart app based on the Tuya system called Smart Home so all sensors and plugs are ran off that


    False alarms are always going to be an issue, but, I never have a sensor installed where it can't be seen by a camera so if i have an activation, I can have a quick look. Takes a bit of tinkering to get best position and angles


    Cat or dog will set it off, but birds and wind won't because of the pairs


    Sensors works of live power via a USB and plug into the box, or mostly a pair of batteries

    One sensors is mounted into a box with a camera and light mounted onto the front so i have a camera a light and a sensor. This is in the machinery shed


    Post edited by AckwelFoley on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,204 ✭✭✭emaherx


    I like the Wavin pipe mod, simple but effective. Did you consider beam breaks? or just nothing available for Tuya eco system?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,556 ✭✭✭✭AckwelFoley


    Yes. I would have preferred something like a beam breakers but couldn't find anything that was available



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,204 ✭✭✭emaherx


    The reason why I started using Home Assistant is its ability to mix devices from different IOT eco systems which gives far more choice , also in the case of Tuya with some third part integrations its possible to control the devices locally so they still work if the cloud servers or your internet connection go down.

    I've been using some image processing from my Hikvision DVR to send alerts to Home Assistant, but I'm using fairly basic cameras and it only supports smart detection on one camera and basic area detection on the others. I've the smart detection setup for the front gate and it rarely has false alarms, but the area detection on other cameras can be triggered by leaves on a windy day. I'm considering using Frigate with a dedicated processor for proper person and object detection.

    Having said that, sometimes you just can't beat simple, I have a few spare PIR's lying around so might give your idea to narrow the field ago.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,204 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Well that doesn't work very well. Flash from signal light is not prolonged enough to register reliably. Not sure if a better photo diode or a different signal light might improve it.


    Plan B

    I disassembled a cheap voltage divider type fence tester and put a volt meter on it Across the resistors.

    Sample Rate for the cheap meter is too slow to capture every pulse of the fence, but it is a measurable voltage.

    Think I'll need to go with a custom built circuit with a Voltage divider to reduce voltage to millivolts and an Op-amp to make safely readable by the Arduino.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,204 ✭✭✭emaherx


    plan B went up in smoke, due to under rated Resistors 🔥 😧

    Plans A and B will be revisited later but here is Plan C. I was avoiding this one as I thought it might not be accurate enough but initial tests are promising.



    A non contact EMF sensor, surprisingly easy to make with just a resistor and a short length of wire.

    Sensitivity could probably do with some adjustment, but its just a matter of using different resistor values.

    Adafruit lora32u4, Has built in LoRa Module and a LiPo battery socket with USB input and battery charging circuit, I'm hoping it will be a simple job to add a small Solar panel like the micro USB ones for Cameras like Reolink use.

    #define MY_DEBUG
    #define MY_RADIO_RFM95
    #define MY_DEBUG_VERBOSE_RFM95
    #define MY_RFM95_RST_PIN 4
    #define MY_RFM95_CS_PIN 8
    #define MY_RFM95_IRQ_PIN 7
    #define MY_RFM95_IRQ_NUM digitalPinToInterrupt(7)
    #define MY_RFM95_MODEM_CONFIGRUATION RFM95_BW125CR45SF128
    #define MY_RFM95_FREQUENCY (RFM95_868MHZ)
    
    
    #define MY_NODE_ID 84
    
    
    #include <MySensors.h>
    #include <Arduino.h>
    
    
    
    
    uint32_t SLEEP_TIME = 30000; // Sleep time between reports (in milliseconds)
    
    
    #define CHILD_ID_LIGHT 0
    #define LIGHT_SENSOR_ANALOG_PIN 0
    
    
    MyMessage msg(CHILD_ID_LIGHT, V_LIGHT_LEVEL);
    
    // EMF
    
    
    int aVal=0;
    int VL=0;
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    void presentation()
    {
        // Send the sketch version information to the gateway and Controller
        sendSketchInfo("EMF Sensor", "1.0");
    
    
        // Register all sensors to gateway (they will be created as child devices)
        present(CHILD_ID_LIGHT, S_LIGHT_LEVEL);
    }
    
    
    void loop()
    {
        aVal=analogRead(LIGHT_SENSOR_ANALOG_PIN);
       // if (aVal > 1 ) {
            VL=map(aVal,1,100,1,255);
            Serial.println(VL);
            send(msg.set(VL));
      //  } 
    
    
        
    
    
        // Sleep until interrupt comes in on motion sensor. Send update every two minute.
       //sleep(SLEEP_TIME);
    }
    
    

    Initial Arduino Sketch for testing. It is setup a a light sensor, as Home Assistant and MySensors don't have an EMF option.



  • Registered Users Posts: 831 ✭✭✭satstheway


    Would it be possible to use the electronics of a robotic house vacuum cleaner to operate a homemade slat cleaner. Using either the random function or with the more expensive mapped type?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,204 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Possible maybe, but probably not very simple or practical either. By the time you add required safety functionality for the high torque motors and sensors suitable for that sort of environment you'd be as well off building from scratch. There may well be open source projects that would provide a more suitable platform for a machine of that scale.



  • Registered Users Posts: 831 ✭✭✭satstheway


    Dang emaherx.

    I was hoping you would just say use the outputs to trigger solenoids to power high wattage motors.

    When ever you figure it out let me know 😆



  • Registered Users Posts: 831 ✭✭✭satstheway


    I seen a video of one with attached orbital sander



  • Registered Users Posts: 831 ✭✭✭satstheway





  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,204 ✭✭✭emaherx


    😁

    I've worked on a few Joz robotic scrappers, they are a simple enough machine mechanically.


    Building a decent DIY one though probably wouldn't be too cheap by the time you build the chassis, aquire appropriate motors and build the charging station, the electronics wouldn't actually be the hardest part, although software could be tricky but ROS would probably be a good starting place.

    https://www.ros.org/blog/getting-started/#

    I'd love to spend some time building a robot of similar scale but I think unless I find some sort of cheap donner machine for parts/chassis it's not likely for a while. I was thinking of a field robot for spot spraying weeds using openCV to recognize weeds like ragwort.



  • Registered Users Posts: 793 ✭✭✭Pinsnbushings


    I priced robotic scrapers for a new shed, I think I was quoted 17k for a Jos scraper..could it be done for 30-40% of that I wonder.

    I've long thought there would be a market for a an automated grassland spot sprayer..ticks the box's every way, labour,spray savings, environmental benefits.



  • Registered Users Posts: 831 ✭✭✭satstheway


    Funnily enough I would be the opposite. The chassis wouldn't be that difficult. And if I went to the cost I know a guy would build it in stainless. I could do rough fit out, but the electronics would be a no go. It's a pity cause Dad was an electronics engineer but he's in his 80's



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,204 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Yes, but I'd say you could easily be in the thousands even with a good DIY build, the final refining of software then would be the make or break of it being worthwhile.

    If you add a cost for the time, effort and research involved I think you'd definitely want to be planning on making a lot of them in future to make anything that could be considered a saving on the 17K.



    The spot sprayer ticks a lot of boxes alright and I'd really love to automate dealing with ragwort especially.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,204 ✭✭✭emaherx


    I don't think it would be a major issue to fabricate, but think it will be costly enough by the time all the mechanical parts are fitted.



  • Registered Users Posts: 793 ✭✭✭Pinsnbushings


    At the right price it would be a real seller for sure..possibly a drone would be more practical can go over hedges, wires etc.

    I can imagine a future livestock farm with no tractors required only for silage and slurry maybe..drones/robots measuring grass,soil and crops and applying precise amounts of liquid fert to the requirements, using met data cross referenced with on farm weather stations for timing.....spot spraying or mechanically removing weeds.. add in virtual fences and robotic milking, robotic yard scraping and robotic feeding..

    Sure what would we do with our time, back to the real world I better open this bale of silage... ha



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,204 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Not sure a drone would really be more practical in practice.

    Licensing for Autonomous drones is more complicated for a start.

    A slow moving land vehicle for pasture weeds, would have better battery life possibly extended with solar panels, be able to carry more chemical and waste less due to better identification of weeds and better shielding due to drift. Drones probably better suited to tall craps and a slightly wider broadcast of chemical targeting problem areas of a field but probably not individual plants.


    Sure what would we do with our time?

    Your Automated world will still take a fair bit of administration and maintenance, I like to imagine it would leave more time for family. It could also provide more time for actually looking after the animals too, but I suppose it could go either way on many farms. I like the idea of devices for animal health monitoring as an aid rather than replacement for regularly checking and handling animals. Having recently given up working off farm, I'm beginning to wonder how I ever found time to farm.



  • Registered Users Posts: 793 ✭✭✭Pinsnbushings


    Yes I suppose output with a land based vehicle would be much higher..

    yes I love the idea of health monitoring.I like the idea of it highlighting an animal maybe not ruminating so it's just allowing the farmer to take a closer look before it might become out serious problem.. like everything the earlier you can get in and solve a problem the less time it will take.. I'm still working full time off farm, so collars are something I'd love to get but unfortunately funds not there at the minute..mind you as a value for money investment I'd say they are up there, not overly expensive.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,840 ✭✭✭Lime Tree Farm


    I haven't read all the contributions here, so forgive me for butting in. Re cattle health monitoring - i knew a computer programmer whose work involved downloading data from a large dairy herd's pedometers. A cow lying down for extended periods was investigated for health issues.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,204 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Butt away.

    Yea, any change in behaviour can be flagged as needing investigation, Activity, Rumination, lying time, milk yield, temperature, etc.



  • Registered Users Posts: 831 ✭✭✭satstheway


    € 1.914,96 | Automatic Gasoline Engine Remote Control Robot Cordless High Capacity Lawn Mowers ON750 For Sale

    https://a.aliexpress.com/_mtyN8cu



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,204 ✭✭✭emaherx


    What price is that actually? €1,914.96? + delivery

    Looks the business though, not sure I'd be willing to spend that kind of money on aliexpress

    Post edited by emaherx on


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,052 ✭✭✭SuperTortoise


    That idea has been rattling around in my head for the past couple of years! I would'nt be great with the software side of it but i think mechanically it is doable.



  • Registered Users Posts: 831 ✭✭✭satstheway


    It's says it's €33 delivery. Aliexpress is not bad but the wait can be months. The most I ever spent on if was around €1400 and I waited 3 months. Believe me I was sweating g but it turned out good.

    Times you'll see something like a mini digger for 4k but delivery could be 6k.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,625 ✭✭✭✭_Brian


    Some of you guys may be able to answer this for me..

    Do you think this 12v fan would be ok to make variable speed and reversible ?? If so can you suggest a control unit that would be suitible..



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,204 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Obviously you'd want the one without a check valve.

    What are you making? hardly want a bathroom extractor that both sucks and blows?

    Assuming its a basic DC motor a variable resistor and DPDT switch will probably achieve what you want. Not much info on motor type, but I'd imagine if were anything more than a basic motor it would say in the description. If its for a house and you are looking for domestic wall controls then a dimmable 12V transformer and dimmer switch for lighting to control speed and a switch/relay combination to reverse polarity of the fan.

    Of course you'd need to match current rating of motor and lighting transformer.


    However a reversible PWM motor controller would be a better solution, these are usually used as they are more precise on speed control and fans won't sit humming and just producing heat if turned to too low a setting. Something like this, but its not pretty for a domestic wall switch, you will still need a 12V transformer.


    or something like this, you could drill a blank cover 1 gang cover plate to fit the controls.




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,625 ✭✭✭✭_Brian


    Cheers I’ll look through those.

    its for campervan, I’m thinking of two. One over the cooker but with the option to reverse and draw in fresh air, our caravan has that option and it’s great of the van has been closed up in hot weather. One in toilet wouldn’t need reverse but would like to slow it down.



  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Had a thought today, probably explains the headache I had this evening, but looking at a few ewes I have on one parcel, there's a particular ewe spends her time around the mineral bucket. What use I wonder, a thingamajig (tech term) at the mineral bucket that'd record the tag # and time spent at that mineral bucket. Is she deficient, greedy, not suited to the area and in need of culling.

    No end of ways to spend money.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,204 ✭✭✭emaherx


    No end indeed.

    But choosing the right places may save time and animal health which ultimately may save money.


    Just be careful not to allow the sheep to chew on your thingamajig! 🤣



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,556 ✭✭✭✭AckwelFoley


    I've spend probably 20 or 30k on alo express in the last few years.


    Members are rated based on their spend.


    The advantage with being a higher spender is you'll get, as I have an instant refund by Ali express if you delivery doesn't arrive.


    Always buy from companies that have lots of reviews



  • Registered Users Posts: 380 ✭✭Gman1987


    Would anyone be able to help/guide me with IP configuration for a camera before I go about resetting each unit. I have two nanostations and one PTZ. I had them up and running last year but someone turned off the switch on the PTZ/Client side after calving finished. When I turned them on this week I cant get a signal back from the camera.

    Router - Default gateway - 192.168.10.1

    Submass - 255.255.255.0


    TP Link CPE510 Access point:

    IP - 192.168.15.254

    Submass - 255.255.255.0

    Default gateway - 192.168.10.1


    TP Link CPE510 Client:

    IP - 192.168.15.253

    Submass - 255.255.255.0

    Default gateway - Cant access to see


    Floureon PTZ

    IP - 192.168.10.194

    Submass - 255.255.255.0

    Default gateway - 192.168.10.1

    Primary DNS - 89.x.x.x (x represents numbers matching router)

    Secondary DMS - 89.x.x.x (x represents numbers matching router)


    When I plug the LAN going to the first nanostation directly into the laptop and set the laptop IP to static I can access the first nanostation (AP) and the camera but I cant access the second nanostation (client). I can ping the AP nanostation but cant ping the client nanostation or the PTZ.

    When I plug the LAN going to the first nanostation (AP) back into the router I cant access either the nanostation or the PTZ.

    Any idea what I am doing wrong? I know the TP links are at a IP 192.168.15 whereas the camera is at 192.168.10 so if ye dont see anything wrong with my setup then I might just factory reset each unit and line up the IP's to 192.168.10 range. Hope to avoid this if ye can help as I will need to go up to the roof of the shed to plug LAN directly into client nanostation in order to reset. Any help or guidance would be must appreciated. @emaherx you look to be the wizz kid with this kind of stuff!!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,204 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Are all addresses static? nothing set by DHCP?

    Router Address 192.168.10.1

    Camera Address 192.168.10.194

    What is laptop Address?


    Setup is Router +++Lan Cable++++ AP ///////Wireless//////// Client ++++Lan Cable++++ PTZ Camera ?

    In order for your laptop to connect from the router to the PTZ camera it needs to be in the same range 192.168.10.x

    The fact that your Nano stations have IP's of 192.168.15.x shouldn't matter. This is either just their management IP's or the Bridge IP's. How did you get these IP's? Can you logon to either of the Nanostations?


    You can access the camera when connected directly to AP? So the wireless link is up?

    By Default traffic is not routed from 192.168.10.x to 192.168.15.x , I assume your laptop's static IP is 192.168.10.x range, so it won't be able to ping the Client CPE but should be able to ping the attached Camera.


    To me it seams something has changed at the Router? is it definitely 192.168.10.1?



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  • Registered Users Posts: 380 ✭✭Gman1987


    Thanks for coming back to me emaherx. Yes AP, Client and PTZ camera is all set to static IP. The reason that the AP and client is at 192.168.15 is that they were set up on a older router originally.

    TP Link CPE510 Access point:

    IP - 192.168.15.254

    Submass - 255.255.255.0

    Default gateway - 192.168.10.1

    Primary DNS - 0.0.0.0

    Secondary DNS - 0.0.0.0


    TP Link CPE510 Client:

    IP - 192.168.15.253

    Submass - 255.255.255.0

    Default gateway - Cant access to see

    Primary DNS - Cant access to see

    Secondary DNS - Cant access to see


    Floureon PTZ

    IP - 192.168.10.194

    Submass - 255.255.255.0

    Default gateway - 192.168.10.1

    Primary DNS - 89.x.x.x (x represents numbers matching router)

    Secondary DMS - 89.x.x.x (x represents numbers matching router)


    Router address is 192.168.10.1 - When laptop is plugged into router LAN the IPv4 address is 192.168.10.152 and the IPv4 default gateway is 192.168.10.1 so I presume the latter is the router IP? I dont have a primary and secondary DNS on the AP maybe this is causing an issue? If so would these need to be added to the client side also? Or maybe the default gateway on the AP should also be 0.0.0.0? Both are added on the PTZ

    In the following setup with a static IP set up (192.168.15.152) on the laptop I am able to access the AP by using its IP addresses but not the client for some reason?

    Setup = Laptop +++LAN Cable +++ AP /////Wireless bridge/////Client+++LAN Cable+++PTZ Camera

    When I change the laptops static IP to (192.168.10.152) on the laptop I am able to access the PTZ by using its IP addresses

    Setup = Laptop +++LAN Cable +++ AP /////Wireless bridge/////Client+++LAN Cable+++PTZ Camera

    When I plug direct through the router I'm not able to access either. The only other thing I can think of is our broadband service provider changed ownership during the year, dont think this would cause an issue with an internal network?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,204 ✭✭✭emaherx


    OK so the nanoStation IP's are the management IP's they don't strictly need to be in the same subnet, unless you want to manage them without changing your laptops subnet. They should just forward all traffic on their LAN ports across the wireless bridge to the other nanoStations LAN port. The bridge seems to work because you can ping the camera.

    For local network traffic DNS servers are not needed as they translate Domain names into IP addresses, you are already working directly with the IP addresses. Likewise the default gateway is the gateway to the internet i.e. your router so only the camera needs this and it should be your router IP.

    I'd bring the laptop out to the client nanoStation and try the opposite, disconnect the CCTV and see if the Laptop can reach the router and the internet using the 192.168.10.x network and the client nanostation using 192.168.15.x network.

    As for reaching the camera with its IP but not the client software, if the camera is setup using P2P then it must have an internet connection before the client software will connect as it uses a remote server to handle this connection even when used on the same LAN.


    Another thing to try is bring the camera to the router and plug it in to make sure it is not the issue. You could try a different DNS server on the Camera like googles 8.8.8.8 and 4.4.4.4


    Just to rule out, the new ISP owner did not replace the router by any chance? They could also be blocking certain types of traffic, but that wouldn't affect the local traffic.



  • Registered Users Posts: 380 ✭✭Gman1987


    Thanks for the quick reply emaherx. Without getting up on the shed this evening I had another look at the AP side. When I set my laptop with a static IP (192.168.15.152) I'm able to log into the AP (192.168.15.254) but cant access the client nanostation (192.168.15.253). When I change the IP on my laptop to 192.168.10.152 then I'm able to log into the camera (192.168.10.194). Doing the same process with pinging I'm getting a reply from the AP and the PTZ but not from the client.

    However when I plug the LAN going to the AP into the router instead of the laptop I'm not able to reach the camera using the IP address, any idea what would be causing this as its working direct to the laptop but not via the router? to confirm the ISP owner did not replace the router

    If you were resetting the Nanostations would you just set them up with a defined IP and submass and just leave the gateway and DNS' at 0.0.0.0? Apologies for all the questions, networking certainty would not be my strong point!

    I'll take up your recommendation and bring the laptop out to the shed and see about accessing it from that side, I might just line up the IP's on the nanostations to that of the network IP 192.168.10 when i am at it.

    Post edited by Gman1987 on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 849 ✭✭✭Easten


    Change the TP Links to be on the same network as your home network which is IP - 192.168.10.XXX

    currently the TPlink are IPs - 192.168.15.254 and IP - 192.168.15.253

    Change them to IP - 192.168.10.254 and IP - 192.168.10.253



  • Registered Users Posts: 380 ✭✭Gman1987


    From reading what Emaherx said above it wont fix the issue as they are just working between the AP and client and will still carry the signal from the router and deliver it out the LAN out of the client. However, I am going to reset them as you have suggest so everything is on the one IP network going forward.

    I have only tried access the camera via the webpage using the IP address, there is a program on a laptop too for the camera also where the connection was previously set up to but its showing that it cant establish the connection now (Same with the app). Emaherx mentioned above re client software and given its nearly a year since it was used it might be worth removing the camera there and reinstall it if I can find it!!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,204 ✭✭✭emaherx


    There is something not right at your router/ between your router and the AP

    You can ping the camera with laptop directly connected to the AP using the 192.168.10.x address so the wireless bridge works, logically the wireless bridge is a replacement for a cable and it does this. Really the IP addresses on the nanostations are only needed for administration of them (they actually probably have another separate subnet to talk to each other). Aligning them will be no harm but just to make administration easier in future.

    But with the Router connected you can't connect, in this scenario the router is not actually acting as a router at all (as in no data is being routed out of the home network). The router is doing two functions though,

    1 it is acting as a switch and as such connecting the AP and the laptop to the routers switch ports should work the same as connecting directly to each other. You hardly have a cross over cable in your setup? These can cause issue with some devices, but "most" modern devices can automatically detect a crossover using Auto-MDIX (check the cable between router and AP that the plugs on both ends are wired exactly the same order)

    2 the router is acting as a DHCP server, when you connect your laptop to the router do you still use the static IP or the DHCP assigned one? If DHCP what IP is it getting. Also try pinging the camera IP address with AP disconnected to rule out an IP address conflict with something else on the network. If you are using DHCP addresses and static addresses then the static addresses should be excluded from the DHCP address pool.


    If in doubt with IP Addresses for any devices its probably best to:

    Keep all subnet masks the same: 255.255.255.0

    Gateway Addresses to your Router address (its your gateway to the internet)

    DNS can be set to your routers IP, your ISP's DNS or any public DNS like Googles 8.8.8.8

    Use the same subnet for all devices that you want to communicate



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,204 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Another thing to consider RE: the apps, if using P2P especially with some of the cheaper brands is are their P2P servers still active?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 849 ✭✭✭Easten


    They need to be on the same network, by having another network which the 192.168.15.XXX is then you would need a router on that network to route traffic to the 192.168.10.XXX network. The TPlink client acts as a switch at the AP. A switch can only work on the same network.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,204 ✭✭✭emaherx


    You are incorrect,

    The bridge is like a switch alright, but switches require no IP address at all as they work at the Mac address level not IP. A single switch can handle as many IP subnets as you like although those subnets cannot communicate with each other without routing they can communicate with devices in their own subnet.


    This is already proven in this instance as the laptop can communicate with the camera through the bridge when set to an IP within the same subnet. I presume it was working like this last year too.


    Switches that have IP addresses have them for management purposes only (or are capable of basic routing / VLANs and other basic services)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 849 ✭✭✭Easten


    I never said the bridge needed IP addresses to communicate what I am saying is he is using two different networks not subnets, the wireless bridge is on a totally different network to his home network, so at the access point side of the bride he would need a router to route traffic back to the home network otherwise.

    It's a simple change all he has to do is change the ip addresses of the Bridge and access point to the same network.

    Change them to IP - 192.168.10.254 and IP - 192.168.10.253



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