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Wall type for External Insulation

  • 11-10-2021 7:39pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 14


    I have an old house with solid concrete walls which I intend to get externally insulated. I am putting on a small extension and I was wondering if I should put in a cavity wall and fill it or a block on the flat. I was wondering what people's thoughts are.



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 391 ✭✭Biker1


    Block on flat and external insulation. No cold bridging at the junction between new and old.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 757 ✭✭✭C. Eastwood


    Do not use a block on flat under any circumstances

    Built the new wall in cavity construction, 100 mm conc block outer leaf, 40 mm cavity, 100 hi-density insulation and a 100 mm concrete block inner leaf. Fix a 30 mm insulated slab on to the inner face of the wall with adhesive and steel Easi-Fix Metal Mushroom Fixings, finish with 3 mm hard wall plaster skim.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 391 ✭✭Biker1


    Just wondering, if it's ok to do external insulation on the mass concrete structure then why do you think it's not ok for block on flat. As for drylining a new build ???



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 757 ✭✭✭C. Eastwood


    I do not know any details of the mass concrete wall you are referring.

    We stopped using solid concrete block on flat walls approx 1960.

    A solid concrete block external wall would not be in compliance with the Building Regulations. (from 1st June 1992).

    It takes the same number of blocks to construct a Cavity Constructed concrete block wall, which provides a 40 to 50 cavity in the wall between the inner and outer leafs to prevent ingress of rainwater and rising dampness. It also prevents a ‘cold bridge’ through the wall.

    There are many incompetent people applying external insulation to walls, who are not qualified craftspersons. Many of the people supervising them are incompetent unqualified professionals.

    When any ingress of rainwater enters through the External Insulation it will flow through the solid blockwork and cause surface dampness on the inner face of the wall, which will be almost incurable.

    You will be unable to have the solid concrete block wall Certified by any Qualified and Insured Professional person.

    I could go on and on.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,410 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Some straight shooting there from Mr Eastwood.

    So back to the OP's concern. They have "solid concrete" walls in an older house which they intend on applying EWI to, but want to know how a future extension should be constructed to function best with the EWI. C. Eastwood recommended a double-leaf with 140mm cavity of which 100m should be PIR and then 30mm insulated plasterboard internally.

    My question is: If the OP is going for EWI anyway, why not have a standard cavity at 100mm, but fully filled and then EWI on top of this? That eliminates the gaping cavity, insulated plasterboard, increases the internal floor-space and the cavity is afforded the protection of the EWI. Or do you foresee many defective EWI's going bad and leaking to the point where even a fully-filled cavity will be problematic?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 757 ✭✭✭C. Eastwood


    A New build dwelling must be in compliance with the Building Regulations. It must have a cavity wall. With insulation in the cavity or insulation in the timber frame inner leaf. Some drilining could also be applied to achieve the max U value.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 757 ✭✭✭C. Eastwood


    If you have been given biased advice that the 225 mm thick solid block wall is the “best way to go”, that is correct only for the mason/ builder. He will still get his €2.00 per block and finish the wall in 1/4 of the time it takes to construct an Insulated Wall.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 757 ✭✭✭C. Eastwood


    Biker1. You said that you are constructing a new small extension. There will be no reason to insulate this on the outside. Construct the external wall of the extension with an insulated Cavity Constructed concrete block wall. You could also fit a 30 mm insulated slab fixed to the inner face of the wall.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,141 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    OP

    can we assume the external insulation with be installed at the same / part of the same works as the extension?

    assuming this is the case, Then block on flat for the extension makes the most sense.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 391 ✭✭Biker1


    Incorrect, nowhere does it say that you must have a cavity wall to comply with the building regulations.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 391 ✭✭Biker1


    It is not me who is constructing anything. I was just replying to the original query.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 391 ✭✭Biker1


    A lot of Passive houses built in this country are of block on flat and 200mm EPS external insulation.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,557 ✭✭✭Markcheese


    Seen someone recently building their kitchen extension with quinn lite style blocks ( or what ever they're called ) , solid block wall and external insulation .. looked like a decent job -

    Would some thought want to be given to the use of the small extension and how it joins the rest of the house , and wether extra thermal mass is a good thing ?

    If your building a kitchen or living room that opens directly into a living space in the existing house it might make sense to have a wall that works the "same way", ie plenty of insulated thermal mass to "hold" the heat same as the existing house -

    Slava ukraini 🇺🇦



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,175 ✭✭✭kieran.


    A cavity is not required to comply with Building Regulations.The relevant regulation is Part C

    "C4 - The floors, walls and roof of a building shall be so designed and constructed as to prevent the passage of moisture to the inside of the building or damage to the fabric of the building"

    Once your EWI system is suitable to prevent the passage of water you do not have a Build Regs issue.

    The technical guidance documents if followed are a prima face way of ensuring compliance with building regulations but that is not the only route to ensure compliance.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 757 ✭✭✭C. Eastwood


    A Passive-house foundations and ground floors are all constructed on hi-density insulation.

    We were discussing an old house and proposed small extension not passive house construction

    The only reason that a 225 mm conc block on flat is constructed in a dwellinghouse is to support an overhead load like a precast reinforced concrete floor.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 46,268 ✭✭✭✭muffler




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 757 ✭✭✭C. Eastwood


    Kieran. dande67 asked for advice on external Insulation on an old solid concrete wall house, and also about constructing a small extension.

    Solid concrete walls are very old walls and most do not have DPC’s.

    I therefore gave dande67 some very simple practical advice for the 2 problems given

    I could of course have given a person with little knowledge of present day construction (based on the questions asked) instructions to download all of the Technical Guidance Documents and inform them why there are many versions of each TGD and explained why and also inform them that the grey areas on the TGD are the Building Regulations, instructed them to read all of the TGD’s, and get Homebonds House Building Manual etc and read and comply with everything

    I could have given all the relevant sections OR given advice to construct a 225mm Cavity Block Wall. But no, I gave very simple practical understandable advice

    As you have prima facie done - I could also have explained that you do not have to comply with the TGD’s (why would anyone bother) when you can do something different that’s equivalent or better to that as specified in the TGD and that you would be PRIMA FACIE in compliance.

    But I prefer to leave all the Technical Stuff, than many builders don’t understand to Experts like yourself.

    I love the part where you quoted the following:- "C4 - The floors, walls and roof of a building shall be so designed and constructed as to prevent the passage of moisture to the inside of the building or damage to the fabric of the building"💧💦💦☔️ 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 it’s a pity that this doesn’t happen on All of the present construction jobs.

    You also state:- “Once your EWI system is suitable to prevent the passage of water you do not have a Build Regs issue.” NOTE- You forget to warn Readers that the suitable EWI system MUST be done by Competent People or the Building Regulations won’t prevent the passage of rainwater through the wall.

    I do not know if you have ever seen the damage in a dwellinghouse where a €24,000 EWI was carrier our by incompetent morans, plus the mental stress that it causes to the Homeowners

    You also state:- “The technical guidance documents if followed are a prima face way of ensuring compliance with building regulations but that is not the only route to ensure compliance.” NOTE:- Many builders and most of the tradespersons working on building projects have never seen any of the TGD’s not to mind different methods of compliance.

    I should have told dande67 all your advice the first instance, and it would have instantly solved all his problems.

    Thanks for all your advice Kieran, I will pass it on to Bob the Builder.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 757 ✭✭✭C. Eastwood


    muffler. That’s wonderful advice you gave to dante67 for his problem at he start of this tread.

    Do people like you and kieran just exist here to criticise people who offer free advice to boards.ie members looking for advice.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,960 ✭✭✭Dr Turk Turkelton


    @C. Eastwood it is better to give no advice than free advice that is wrong.

    At least the person you took your name from only played the role of a cowboy.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 757 ✭✭✭C. Eastwood


    Another critic. I will not refer to you as Dr. And YOUR name implies a lot about you

    You are using your own advice - don’t give dante67 any advice.

    Perhaps you will list and explain ALL of the wrong advice which you claim I gave to dante67.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,960 ✭✭✭Dr Turk Turkelton


    The most used method of constructing walls to attach external insulation to is 9" cavity blocks.

    This is what is currently being used on new build sites in the Dublin area.

    After that there is either an acrylic render or a brick slip or stone slip attached to the insulation to finish it.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 757 ✭✭✭C. Eastwood


    I am very aware of the construction of 225 cavity block constructed external walls are still used in Dublin and accepted by Homebond. There are 25 other Counties where the type of construction is mostly Cavity Constructed external walls with either a 100 conc block inner leaf or a 150 timberframe highly insulated inner leaf. This type of construction commenced in Ireland approx 1978 because of the terrible problem of condensation mould growth on the inner face of uninsulated hollow block walls which had a U Value of approx 2.1. This is when 25 mm Styrofoam was introduced to the cavity of a cavity constructed wall. Most counties adopted this construction. Dublin did not.

    Where I live we have not constructed external cavity block walls since approx 1978, and I have not specified this type of wall since then and never will with all the problems encountered with them

    When a cavity block (hollow block) constructed external wall has a failure such as poor or very porous external plaster or is exposed to strong winds or develops Cracks such as movement cracks, shrinkage cracks, expansion cracks, or Structural cracks etc, or incompetent construction, - rainwater will cause dampness behind the drilining on the inner face. This cannot occur on a Cavity constructed external wall. This is the reason I advised dante67 to construct a Cavity constructed external wall in the proposed small extension. You are entitled to advise dente67 to construct a cavity block (hollow block) external wall to the proposed small extension. I will not be Criticising you as you have me

    Is this ALL that you can criticise me for all the bad advice that you alleged I gave to dante67.

    You may realise that there are some members of this forum that live outside of Dublin.

    Also Clint Eastwood is actually an actor and film producer etc. I wonder who the readers will think who is the Cowboy here.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,175 ✭✭✭kieran.


    The OP suggested to build a 225mm wide wall block on flat and not cavity wall. A solid block on flat wall is structurally far superior to a 225 cavity block wall.

    You also stated "A New build dwelling must be in compliance with the Building Regulations. It must have a cavity wall. With insulation in the cavity or insulation in the timber frame inner leaf." I quoted the relevant section of the Building Regs to show that this statement was indeed incorrect, there is not such assertion in the Building Regulations

    No matter what wall system the OP has choosen all components should be install by suitable skilled trades men. If he has employed suitably experienced professional to design, tender and inspect the works "morons" should not make there way on to his site.

    The OP has said that he is applying EWI to the external face of their existing home therefore from a thermal bridge and watertightness continiuty view point a solid 225mm block on flat wall with EWI system would be the best solution in my opinion. While I note your issues with water ingress on a EWI system I have personally designed and signed off on many successful newbuilds and extension with a 225mm solid wall and EWI. Like any project the key is to get the design right first then to make sure it is excuted correctly on site but this goes for all build methods!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 391 ✭✭Biker1




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