Random EV thoughts.....

Most likely 63A so almost 14kW. Your meter might have current rating on it.

50a?

That doesnt leave much headroom. If I'm charging my EV at 32a and then running my washing machine, dishwasher and tumble dryer at the same time... what happens if I put on a kettle or microwave?

I have a basic rolec 32a where I am now, I doubt it has load sensing ability. It's not even wired to my fuse box - only to the meter.

Imagine 32a to the car, 10a to the kettle and another 10a to the dryer, plus a couple more amps for washing machine and dishwasher. That's not counting idle load like TVs, phone chargers etc and you're already over 50a and close to 60.

The only things that physically limit the power you can draw into your house are the fuses and the wires. And fuses are there to protect the wires. If you draw more than the rated current your wires will overheat and possibly cause a fire. When we say your house is rated for 12kVA there is nothing measuring the watts you are drawing. So you could theoretically exceed 12kVA as long as your fuse (and wires) allow for it.

Based on the type of fuse you have you could draw more than the rated current (and note it's current not power) for a very short period of time before the fuse blows - to several tens of seconds or longer. Ultimately it boils down to how sensitive the fuse installed by ESB is. If it says 60A then there is a good chance a draw over 60A sustained for more than a few seconds will cause it to blow and you'll be left without power until ESB come and fix it.

@innrain The supply voltage being lower at 200V does not mean you can draw more current. That's not how fuses work. The 12kVA is derived using the nominal voltage of 230V. There is a large margin of error so the fuse is likely 60A instead of 12000/230 = 52.17A.

In conclusion, yes if you have a 12kVA supply and you charge at 32A and have your oven, dryer and dishwasher/kettle/toaster on at the same time you will cause the main MCB/RCBO in your consumer unit to trip. You want that to trip before you want the meter fuse to blow because the latter is expensive and involves a wait as only ESB can fix it. The trip switch on the other hand you can flick back yourself.

I can’t imagine a sparks will install and sign off an installation that’ll overload the main fuse.

I'd suggest you need a better imagination, plenty of people out there installing any auld stuff. Sure look at @ELM327 's post above, he has a 32A charger living it's best live. That said, load balancing isn't the only option, there where posts way back on this thread about chargers being installed and configured at 20A and even further back there are references to Pen devices which have to be manually reset if you draw two much power at once. I'd get an load balancer

another range test from some of the cars that will be getting a lot of interest, Mach-E, Ionic 5, EV6 ,Enyaq etc

We drove these electric cars until they DIED! - YouTube

Second Black_Knight & ELM327, I’ve a twin Rolec securicharge (dumb) charger that is running from 11-7 every night, once one car finishes the other car starts and with our milage both cars need to be charged every night, pulling big amps all night with washing machine, dish washer and two 3.5kw air to air heat pumps. 60amp fuse no issues.

Found the Rolec’s great, been using them since 2014 and the only issue was replacing a €20 contactor. That’s with one charger doing 90,000km’s of electric driving and 200,000km’s on the other.

I would never make back the extra for a zappi on what the solar could put into a car- I’d need to double my 5.4 kwp array to make a zappi worth my while, add in no serviceable parts and it’s not worth it. In summer I plug in the granny charger to soak up any excess.

The 9kw shower pulls 40amps in winter.

The load balancing is very clever though and would be a nice addition if the treble priority switch system is ever replaced.

Screen shot shows one car charging, tapering, 3am the second car coming on and two quick showers.