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Solar PV battery options

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 763 ✭✭✭Bif


    Hi all. I have a Solis 6kw inverter and 5 kw puredrive battery. When charging from the grid on night rate what should the Charge Limit and Discharge Limit be set to? Currently at 050.0A for both. Thanks.



  • Registered Users Posts: 118 ✭✭simpsimp


    Hi:-

    I've been getting loads of quotes and we've narrowed down to three providers...

    Just wondering if anyone had any experience with these battery / inverter setups?

    • Puredrive Battery 5kWh / Solis Inverter 5kWp
    • GiveEnergy Battery 5.2kWh / GiveEnergy Inverter 5kWp
    • Alpha Battery 5.7kWh / Alpha Inverter 5kWp

    And there's the option for any of those to switch out for a Pylontech 2.4kwh battery for a discount, generally around €1,200

    Any thoughts? Thanks!



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,217 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    I have my charge limit set to about 10A and charge slowly over the entire night rate period. Easier on the battery and keeps it warm during the winter.



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,217 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    I have the Solis/Puredrive. Works well, no issues. Advantage of the Puredrive over the GivEnergy/Plylontechs (not sure about the Alpha) is that it has a 100A discharge which means it can provide up to 5kW of power. It means that you won't need to pull from the grid as often if you have lots of appliances running.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 763 ✭✭✭Bif


    Thanks Jonathan. Can you tell me where to find the fill and discharge limits e.g. 20% to 80% or do they exist?



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  • Registered Users Posts: 118 ✭✭simpsimp


    Thanks Jonathan. I had heard this claim, but good to hear it mentioned by a real world user! I believe this is known as the C-Rating, so here the Puredrive has a C-Rating of 1, while the Pylontech, for example, has a C-Rating of 0.5

    I've just noticed that the battery grant may be removed for 2022, so hoping to lock in a grant application this or next week.



  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    It'll be interesting to see if battery prices drop if the battery grant is removed.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,358 ✭✭✭✭Ha Long Bay


    Firstly just want to say thanks to all the knowledgeable posters on this forum it's an excellent resource for anyone looking at PV and wish all a Happy Christmas.

    I have one battery related question I am thinking to add a second 5KW Puredrive to an upcoming installation. I was quoted €2200 which after negotiation can be provided for 2k. Is this a fair price as it's hard to find wholesale rates?



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,217 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    Yeah, that's a fair price for a non-DIY battery. Rule of thumb is €1k/2.5kWh battery, so €2k is spot on.

    You'll get comments from others about going down DIY battery route, but it isn't for everyone.



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,217 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    As is where do they exist within the Solis settings or what is the Depth of Discharge for the Puredrive battery? If the latter, it is 90%.

    Ref: https://varme.nl/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/DC-Installation-Guide-1.pdf



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,358 ✭✭✭✭Ha Long Bay



    Thanks for the reply. I know there are big savings going down the DIY route but not for me. I am just spot checking the quote on the additional 5KW option.



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,217 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    Yes, the proper terminology is the C rating.

    I really don't think they are going to do away with the battery grant. I think it was just omitted from the press releases. If the intention was to use the grid as a battery, they would have introduced net metering. Self consumption is still the aim of the game, and batteries greatly aid that.



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,217 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    Would you mind PM me who that quote is from? Would be possibly interested if I can convince SWMBO.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,358 ✭✭✭✭Ha Long Bay




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 763 ✭✭✭Bif


    Hi Jonathan. Thanks again for that. I was wondering can the DoD be adjusted? Like my car, which recommends keeping the battery at above 20% and below 80% when possible to protect battery life. Is it relevant to the PureDrive?



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,217 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    The warrantied DOD from Puredrive is 90%, but you can reduce that if you want. The default config within the Solis is 80%.

    The relevant options (OverDischg SOC and ForceCharge SOC) are on the bottom of page 40 of the manual:

    https://www.ginlong.com/uploads/file/Solis_Manual_RHI(3-6)K_5G_ENX_V1,5.pdf

    To be honest, I wouldn't worry about it.. just leave it at 80% or 90% discharge and let it do its thing. Warrantied for 10,000 cycles anyway, that's 2.7 cycles a day for 10 years.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 763 ✭✭✭Bif


    Sound Jonathan. That’s what I’ll do. Thanks again.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,874 ✭✭✭garo


    Alright! We are in business. Finally finished connecting everything and the new DIY battery + Seplos BMS is talking to my Growatt inverter and doing what it needs to do. The old battery is disconnected and I am PMing those who were interested in the order they messaged me.



  • Registered Users Posts: 431 ✭✭Geeyfds53573


    Great stuff congrats Garo was connecting to the inverter more awkward than expected?

    I might prepare BMS cables this week but prob won’t see batteries for another month.

    anything we should do differently?



  • Registered Users Posts: 431 ✭✭Geeyfds53573




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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,874 ✭✭✭garo


    A couple of lessons for me. The Seplos BMS has four NTC terminals. I wasn't comfortable extending these cables so measure your battery distances and set your BMS cables to terminate at roughly the same point. I gave too much slack to the cables that were connecting to the furthest cells and this has made my install untidy. I may shorten these at some point. Measure twice and cut once.

    It pays to think about the orientation your BMS is going to be in in its final state and plan the layout of your 16/25mm2 cables and the angle of your crimps on them. Seplos recommends 2 (or 3 for the 200A BMS) positive power cables and a single for the negative. I crimped two cables each with 16-6 crimps on the BMS end and one 35-8 each for the battery/inverter ends with the wires from both cables going into the same crimp end. Heatshrink wrap was the business.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,185 ✭✭✭championc


    As for the Seplos unit itself, how have you mounted it, or have you managed to enclose it into something ?

    My second set of batteries order price indeed was too good to be true, so I got the full refund from AliExpress, but need to place the order now. I have been somewhat waiting to see if they do a new years sale to save a few more quid on the current pricing



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 793 ✭✭✭reklamos


    I would say there should be some deals on Chinese new year that starts in February.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,874 ✭✭✭garo


    No. Not yet. I have a couple of things in mind but right now it’s just sitting in the box it came in - propped up a bit by the wires attached.

    I checked last week and the best price at PWOD/Oye I saw was 1440. You can definitely do better by 200.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,517 ✭✭✭blobert


    Hi Guys,

    We've just started work on a new build passive house with a very large south facing roof. We have planning permission to have up to about 30-40kW of solar panels on the roof.


    My intention was basically to get planning permission to plaster the whole roof in panels and then when it came time to actually build the house see what made sense economically in terms of tariffs etc. Looks like we won't find out for sure with this for another few weeks but it looks like it won't be great.


    Previously it seemed as though battery storage (unlike the panels themselves) did not make financial sense but I've been reading here about the AliExpress DIY route with interest, it seems like you can get 10kW of batteries for a bit over 1k which seems great value.


    I have a couple of quick questions on the DIY route for anyone that knows their stuff:


    (1) How scalable is it? Most of you seem to have gone for circa 10kW of batteries. Is there any reason I could not do this with 30, 50 or more kW of batteries.

    (2) How safe is this? My intention would be to have the batteries and inverter for the solar panels in a "shed" (very well insulated garage type room) separate from the main house by a few metre so the batteries would not be in the main house. That said I have 2 relatively young children and I'd be wary of anything that would cause serious harm if someone touched the wrong wire (though I'd have some sort of barrier to prevent access to the batteries). I see a bit of talk of "the whole thing could go on fire" but I'm assuming that's pretty unlikely

    (3) The new house will have 3 phase power (partially to facilitate greater export of power) but mainly as we're building a very large house which despite being passive standard will still use a lot of power and be entirely (inc electric cars) run on electricity. Is there any issue with using the DIY battery rigs here with 3 phase power?

    (4) I'm not up to date with my battery knowledge. Is there anything coming down the tracks that might drop the price of the standard Powerwall type products significantly in the near future? I'd ideally prefer not to have hundreds of batteries linked together in my shed vs some off the shelf product but at the moment it seems only the former option makes economic sense.


    Sorry for the long post and thanks!



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,197 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    1.Scalable in terms of 16 AFAIK, so 16/32/48 etc, your limitation is likely going to be output (determined by inverter)

    2.AE batteries mentioned on this thread safe for storage in house

    4.Linking is the most economic path at present

    PS forget about export, do your best to plan/scale to self consume/store

    Good luck with build, sounds very interesting



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,874 ✭✭✭garo


    1. No limit on scalability. 16 200Ah LifePO4 batteries get you 10,240Wh nominal. You can scale to 32, 48, 64 or more. The battery packs will all operate in parallel so will be at 51.2V nominal.
    2. LifePO4 is very safe. No risk of fire. Different chemistry to Li-ion that is used in Teslas and laptops and cell phones. As far as exposed wires are concerned, use the same basic precautions you would use with any electricity wires. Get yourself a case or cabinet to keep the batteries in and use insulated shrinkwrap to minimize any exposed surfaces.
    3. No issue with 3 phase but you will need a three phase storage or hybrid inverter. You also need to decide whether you will get a hybrid inverter that connects to both the PV array and batteries or a non-hybrid for the PV array and a separate storage inverter for the batteries. Latter is more flexible, about the same combined cost for non-hybrid+solar inverters as a hybrid inverter but takes up more space. 3-phase inverters are also more expensive that single phase equivalents (but can handle larger arrays). I am not even sure if 3-phase hybrid inverters are easy to procure in Ireland so you may have to go separate PV and storage inverters.
    4. Supply is tight right now as EV production ramps up. I don't think battery systems are getting cheaper in the next year or two. A 50kWh storage system (and you most likely won't need that) will be 80 cells not hundreds. Yes it's a large install but you can separate them into 16 cell modules, find or build decent storage cases for them. It's doable.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,874 ✭✭✭garo


    A 10kWh battery is frickin' awesome. After over 2 years of a 2.4kWh Pylontech, it's amazing to have everything covered by the battery all day and still be at 50% at 8pm and later in December. Will recommend. ++



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 739 ✭✭✭Feidhlim


    Likewise if it's not too much trouble! Thank you!!



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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,309 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    For home built batteries a few YouTube channels to look at :

    Off grid garage, lithiumsolar, digital mermaid(that one's for a boat), will prowse, solar garage.

    With three phase it makes it a bit more complicated (expensive) getting the right inverters etc but not impossible.

    Most of us have bought 200ah cells. But there is 300+ on the market.


    Oh give yourself plenty of space in your plant room. If your going of the shelf or DIY, all of them need space.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,763 ✭✭✭poker--addict


    speaking of youtube and other sites, any good resource for a total novice looking into DIY option?

    At moment I am thinking to get a 2.5KwH battery with a PV install, then I do know an electrician who I guess could install or add on more batteries with ease- but I dont want to trouble him to wire the whole setup....

    😎



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,185 ✭✭✭championc


    The electrical side is very simple. Panels have a male and female connector on each. You simply connect the male from one to the female of the next. It's easier than Lego. You then need two long leads from the inverter to the string of panels, with a DC disconnect switch along the path (or one at the panels and one at the inverter).

    So in reality, the difficult bit is to simply anchor the mounting rails to your roof. There should be plenty of videos online for how to remove / replace roof tiles.

    The installer companies can do an install in a day, and it's easy to see why.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,743 ✭✭✭yankinlk


    I assume he meant diy battery option. Been reading this thread but mostly lost if I'm honest.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,763 ✭✭✭poker--addict


    ya its the battery bit i would like to DIY, or to add on batteries after all the "hard" (easy?) work is done.

    I wont be going near the roof so the panels will definitely have to be mounted by someone who knows what they are at in terms of roof operations.

    😎



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,185 ✭✭✭championc


    The DIY battery option is stupidly simple. A string of batteries has a positive at one end and a negative at the other. These connect to the positive and negative terminals on the inverter.

    Some form of cutoff switch should be between the batteries and the inverter, as should a BMS too.

    The difficult and time consuming bit is wiring the BMS leads to each battery cell



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  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Is there any issues with insurance when doing a DIY battery build? Does it need to be signed off by a qualified electrician for example?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,743 ✭✭✭yankinlk


    Does anyone have a parts list?



  • Registered Users Posts: 45 fluffykre


    This video popped up on my youtube feed I found it interesting. Describes the troubles with ordering lifepo4 from china. What i found interesting is these Alibaba sellers will accept creditcard for an extra few % (3% in this persons example), maybe an alternative to aliexpress if you have confidence in your creditcard providers charge back process. this fellow is buying large quantity of these cells for ther off grid setup in the US.


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EYqemUdIo08
    




  • Registered Users Posts: 431 ✭✭Geeyfds53573


    Saw this well worth watching I would have thought he should have got a better deal for that many cells. I like watching his battery built perfect for those of us who are doing the same setup I may even copy the plywood casing.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,185 ✭✭✭championc


    If connecting a DC power pack to an already installed inverter, then nothing whatsoever. Your installer of a hybrid inverter might get arsy if you had a problem but realistically, after the fist week of operation, I very much doubt if any customer has seen or needed their installer since



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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,185 ✭✭✭championc


    16 cells, a BMS, a DC disconnect and decent cable. And a half decent digital multimeter too



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,185 ✭✭✭championc


    From personal experience, buy with a credit card via AliExpress. Do NOT buy direct. If you have any problem, you can raise a Dispute with AliExpress, and 99 times out of 100, they will go against the retailer and issue a refund.

    I bought a set of 16 cells recently. They never arrived. The seller claimed they were at the PO awaiting collection. They then said that they were signed for too. AliExpress issued me a refund.

    So in my opinion, they are actually easier than Ebay or PayPal



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,904 ✭✭✭cian1500ww


    I'd also add some sort of suitable fuse. There's a lot of potential in these batteries so worth investing in a fuse to protect things. Lithium Solar did a good video on the suitable types of fuses that should be used with lithium batteries.




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,874 ✭✭✭garo


    I posted a shopping list a few pages back. Also I agree with championc. Go with Aliexpress. People's experience with PWOD and OYE has been good. Look for videos from Ray (same guy linked above by fluffykre) or Will Prowse for good how-tos.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,431 ✭✭✭Big Lar




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,869 ✭✭✭Alkers


    I have an existing 2.52kWp array with no battery.


    I'm considering adding some battery storage.


    As I see it, I have two options - avail of the €600 grant and get a hybrid inverter installed and a 2.5kW battery (or larger), then sell this and replace with a DIY battery. Or, get a stand alone inverter installed and go straight to the DIY battery route. Probably 5kWh would suffice given our array size - is this possible or is 16 cells the minimum?

    We have a PHEV which we're putting circa 11kWh into each night so I would be happy with the battery covering up to the night rate period and it would probably be uneconomical to try and cover the car charging from battery even if we had the excess.

    What are people's thoughts on the best option. I'm very comfortable with 12v electrics from campers and boats but have v.limited experience with higher voltage stuff. I assume I'd need a sparks to install the inverter if going with a standalone?



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,185 ✭✭✭championc


    Going with a separate Storage Inverter will, in the long term, give you more options I believe. You can build it while the other is working away, you can also locate it in a completely separate location. Most of all, you can CONTROL what goes in and out, and measure it too. This is exactly what a Tesla Powerwall is.

    16 Cells is 16 because each cell is only around 3.2v and therefore, it's about making up a 48v pack. So we're not really talking about High Voltage at all. With Campers, people may have rigs with 4 x 12v in parallel (12v but lots of amps). In our case, we are 4 x 12v in Series. I assume the 12v on a camper feeds an inverter - well so does the 48v in exactly the same way.

    You shouldn't really be thinking about charging the car from the battery if you have night rate. Obviously car charging only really kicks in when excess solar is 1.4kW. So if you had a Hybrid, it would ALWAYs fill the battery first, but with the likes of a Zappi charger, you could fill the car before the battery.

    Lastly, you should only really need a sparks to make the final AC electrical connection into your fuse board. You could mount the inverter, build the powerwall and do all the cabling yourself. So in reality, you could literally do the whole thing yourself.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,570 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    Alkers I'm also in the research phase here with respect to options like yourself......and my thanks to you championc. These forums are awesome for the level of sharing that goes on. Truly.

    Only thing I'd comment is that 48v isn't to be trifled with. With a 48V pack I guess you could get up to 55-56v upper voltage, that is enough to "ruin-your-day"(tm) if your not careful and accidentally had that charge going across you, esp if it was hot day or something and your hands might be sweaty. Only takes 30-40 mA for you to "wake up dead" :)

    However, bad-mojo/doom-gloom aside, 48V is generally ok to deal/work with. Sure, your not going to be going around licking terminals - just wouldn't like for people to get into their heads that you can be flippant like you can with a 12V, but 48V is generally pretty safe.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,460 ✭✭✭✭DrPhilG


    Wait... I wasn't supposed to lick the terminals???



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,185 ✭✭✭championc


    The I believe the batteries are safe to work with then not connected to the system, in the same way that you could get a right belt off a car battery when the starter is turning the engine. The deadly part is the current, and keeping the positives away from the negatives



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