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Gears not working issue

  • 29-12-2021 11:26pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,184 ✭✭✭


    I have a large mountain bike All the gears were working fine for 6 months Now I can can change gear 1 to 7. so what happens is I change gear the chain moves down the rear wheel cogs to the left and ends up jammed tight in the small inner space between the inner cog and the bike frame .

    A few weeks ago I would just use gears. 1,2,3. or gear 7 and I could cycle normally. All the gear cables look normal. Not loose. Everything looks ok. No rust anywhere .

    If i.used gears 4 to 6 the chain would slip off all the rear wheel cogs

    So what I did is just take off the 2 wheels and put em on another bike for the moment until I figure out how to fix it .

    Do the gears need adjustment. am I missing something obvious. I know theres plenty of videos in youtube how to adjust your gears .

    If I put the bike upside down and put it in gear I can turn around the pedals and the wheel spins around at high speed. The chain does not move to the smaller cogs or fall off or get jammed.

    The only maintenance I do is oil the chain every 6 months. Ive been cycling for 20 years. I cycle everyday .

    Post edited by riclad on


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,092 ✭✭✭fatbhoy


    If the chain is slipping, but staying on the same rear cog, that's chain wear (chain is not meshing to the cog anymore because it's slightly stretched). Solution is new chain at least, and possibly also new rear cogs (AKA cassette) in extreme cases (if the stretched chain caused the cogs to wear).

    If the chain is going past the smallest rear cog, you need to adjust the limit screw: this prevents the derailleur from moving too far past the smallest cog, and too far before the biggest cog (there are two limit screws).



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,447 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    As fatbhoy says, chain wear and your limit screws need adjusting, possibly cable tightening after screws are adjusted =.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,130 ✭✭✭Explosive_Cornflake


    Gears sound complex, but once you learn it, they are easy.

    Limit screws only adjust the RANGE of the derailleur. The cable tension adjusted via the barrel adjuster adjusts where the derailleur is, the index.

    You really shouldn't need to adjust the limit screws once they are correct.

    It's a thing where a video will help, [url="https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-adjustment"]park tool do good ones[/url]



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,184 ✭✭✭riclad


    I. Ll adjust the limit screw, what's happening is I cycle for a few seconds the chain drops down all the cogs into the quarter inch gap between the small outer cog and the rear wheel fork,

    The strange thing is up til 5 weeks ago the gears 1 to 7 worked fine, right now I'm using bike no 2 which is working fine. Mostly I fix punctures , I oil the chain every 6 months and maybe every 2 years I might have to replace a wheel if it gets worn out . I'll look up video adjust limit screw mountain bike and see if that works

    Thanks for the advice, all the gear cables look OK not loose or worn, no sign of rust on chain or gears, back wheel in perfect condition before I removed it. I can change the gears but the chain just drops down off the cogs on the rear wheel

    I cycle about 50 minutes every day its safer at the moment, than using bus service for obvious reasons.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,184 ✭✭✭riclad


    I'll look at that video and write down the various steps in adjusting the derailleur etc before I do it, it looks pretty simple the difference I see is my bike uses round type gear selectors not the click type shown in the video . It's a lot simpler than working on building pcs for instance .



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 710 ✭✭✭mad turnip


    A rounded type shifter works the same as a click type shifter by tightening or loosening the tension in the cable.

    If the cable is getting stuck in between the smallest cog and the frame the H limit screw is set incorrectly.

    If the cable is getting stuck in between the largest cog and the spokes the L limit screw is set incorrectly.

    If you shift a gear and the bike doesn't change gear the cable tension is set incorrectly.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,184 ✭✭✭riclad


    the bike changes gear ok, i,ll try the H limit screw first .



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,184 ✭✭✭riclad


    To be clear cables look fine, clean, not loose, I think you mean is the bike chain getting jammed or falling off the cogs on the rear wheel into the space above the rear wheel axle and the bike frame , theres no sign of any rust on chain or gear set derailleur



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,721 ✭✭✭prunudo


    Increasing the oiling of the chain from every 6 months is probably a good start once you get them fixed. Chain and sprockets wear over time, the dirter, drier they are the quicker they'll need replacing.

    New chain, cables and a degreasing of the derailleur return spring will go a long way to improving the running of the bike. Just my 2 cents though as a diy bike mechanic.




    Or you could just by a new bike which seems to be solution to problems on most fb pages 😂



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,184 ✭✭✭riclad


    The chain and cables look brand new , I see no sign of wear, I'll oil the derailleur and chain after I make the adjustments. I know how to , replace gear set sprockets if that's necessary in the future. I'll have to Google what is the derailleur return spring.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,721 ✭✭✭prunudo


    See if you can pick up a chain stretch tool. Cheap as chips and handiest way to know if the chain is beyond its usable life.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,184 ✭✭✭riclad


    I hope I'm not being rude but if I had a bike with a worn out chain, gear cables that need replacing, gears not working at all, it would probably be cheaper to take the 2 wheels off my old bike and buy a bike on adverts ie for 70 to 80 euro , maybe give the bike away free to a bike shop. It's always good to have a spare wheel or 2

    I doubt if the chain is worn out since I cycled it everyday for 4 months with no problem

    Like if I have an old broken laptop, I'll take out the ram and hardrive and buy a faster modern laptop maybe refurbished on amazon uk rather than get the old one fixed



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,131 ✭✭✭cletus


    I'm not sure who you think you're being rude to.

    You're unlikely to get a bike for 70 or 80 quid that would be worth buying.

    Chains, gear cables, brake cables, brake pads are all consumable items. Long term ownership of a bike would necessitate the changing of all or any of these things.

    If you're any way handy none of the above are very difficult to do.


    I definitely wouldn't be dumping s bike over stretched cables or chain



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,184 ✭✭✭riclad


    If I have an old bike very bad condition I'll take off the wheels and give it away, people will take almost anything its its free,



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,880 ✭✭✭✭Esel
    Not Your Ornery Onager


    Not your ornery onager



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,184 ✭✭✭riclad


    Because I always need spare wheels, if I get a puncture, swap in a wheel to save time, in my experience back wheels last 1 years approx before they wear out, it's not unknown for people in dublin to steal the wheels off a bike when the bike is locked up,

    I always lock the bike with a chain thru the back wheel and frame. It's like phones I always have 2 phones, buy a phone, keep the old one as a spare.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,184 ✭✭✭riclad


    Yesterday night I got a puncture, in the back wheel, I took the tyre and tube off a spare wheel, put em on the back wheel. I'll fix the puncture in a few days. I like to always have 2 spare wheels ready front and back with tyres and tubes on them.

    Post edited by riclad on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,130 ✭✭✭Explosive_Cornflake


    This isn't a personal attack or anything, but wheels should be lasting you a lot longer than a year. If there are too cheap though, maybe only a year?

    It remind me of this theory



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,184 ✭✭✭riclad


    I think it depends on how much you cycle, your weight, I have at least 2back wheels stop working, the cogs wear out, become very loose, I.m over 6ft, 12 stone in weight and sometimes I carry heavy items like 3 litre water bottles , plus you go over one hole in a road and it can wreck your wheel. On average wheels last 2 years at least. I wonder what is the safe weight to ride a standard old style bike, eg large thin wheels, not a mountain bike. I presume bikes last longer if you are 5ft and 8 stone in weight. If a wheel is going to break 90 per cent of the time it, ll be the back wheel. I bought a mountain bike 24 inch frame but I found it too small not as comfortable as a 26 inch bike



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,149 ✭✭✭✭Lemming



    What do you mean by "standard old style" bike?

    Your claimed experience with wheels, I just cannot fathom. In all my years riding bikes (and then mountain biking beyond that) I have only ever managed to split one rim (and that was a wear failure along a vertical braking surface seam, not an impact failure); said rim survived over four years of teenage years being used daily for school, mountain biking, or generally goofing around. I am over 6ft and now over 12 stone and even now, doing far more demanding off-road riding than I did previously, including more racing, I have yet to see another rim failure since my teenage years. I have two very distinctly different bikes that I ride now, one of which is "old school" with thin 26" XC-oriented rims, so your above comment has me curious.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,184 ✭✭✭riclad


    A bike not a mountain bike, racer type,




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,184 ✭✭✭riclad


    bike with thin wheels, not 26inh mountain bike wide wheels, eg thin wheels less than 2 inch width. My experience is back wheels stop working , eg due to wheel is buckled slightly, or else the cogset becomes too loose, eg the cogs go round but the bike does not move if you turn the pedal around, eg the cogs are no longer connected fully to the axle, cogs just free wheel. Also sometimes one or two spokes in the wheel break. Maybe you can cycle a bike with a slightly bent back wheel but it will be slow and tiring to do so. I'm not a mechanic so I might not get all the technical words right. Google old racer bike 60s , see image in my last post, eg mountain bikes were not common in the 60s, in the 80s alot of people ride old black bikes with a basket on them.

    Maybe I'm careless i cycle everywhere I carry large heavy items, tools, etc so I don't expect a back wheel to last more than 2 years.

    I have a racing bike with 2 thin wheels fully working but I'm afraid to cycle it as I'm 14 stone, 6ft 3. Eg I don't know if the thin wheels would last long if I used it. Maybe I'll give it to a charity shop.

    I got a racing bike for Christmas when I was 14 and I was happy to use it. But that's like 25 years ago. I usually buy an old bike on adverts ie and replace the wheels on it, I just make sure the gears are working before I buy it.

    I understand I'm on a forum where people buy bikes for 500 euro or more, so I sound like a newbie. I fix my pcs, laptops etc so I like fixing things and that includes bikes , there's lots of videos on YouTube so it's easy to learn DIY if you have the time

    Post edited by riclad on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,184 ✭✭✭riclad


    I don't break rims, the cogs wear out, the spokes break, on the back wheel, I'm 14 stone and I also carry heavy items eg pcs, tools, when on my bike, right now I'm using an old wheel it has 2 broken spokes the reason I use it is the other spare wheel is too wide to fit inside the rear forks. I'll probably buy a bike in 2 years time if I need it. I'll buy a bike with no wheels as long as its got no rust, the gears work OK, it has a saddle, it's large type, 26 inch wheels, lots of people have old bikes they no longer use. Maybe 1 wheel is broke

    I don't know if it s safe to ride a racer type bike if your 14 stone weight , would the back wheel break after a few weeks? i don't think I have even seen a split rim, old bike equals thin wheels, 50s type bike, I think mountain bikes were not invented til the late 70s maybe

    Everyone Rode racer style ikes with thin wheels thin tyres til the late 70s

    First mountain invented 1978 usa Joe breezer from wiki

    I came to Dublin in 1980 ever since then I have ride mountain bikes



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 492 ✭✭Elvis Hammond


    You do realise broken spokes can be replaced?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,184 ✭✭✭riclad


    Yes i do, i,ll replace them after, i look up, video, how to replace spokes,



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,130 ✭✭✭Explosive_Cornflake


    At 14 stone, I think you're fairly light, there's no issue with most* wheels there.

    Certainly cycling style can affect it, you get a feel for taking your weight of the saddle and using your knees more over certain bumps etc.

    You are describing different things though. Cogs(cassette in this case) wearing out too quick is a sign to me that the chain is not clean, or lubed right.

    Weekly, you should pump tires. Buy yourself a track pump.

    At that time, inspect the chain. If it's dry, put some oil on it.

    If it's dirty, clean it.

    Start simple, you can CLEAN it with WD40. Dry it off with a rag, and then use a chain oil after that.

    I do 90% my shopping via bikes these days, 2 pannier bags. That's plenty of weight on the back wheel.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,184 ✭✭✭riclad


    I'll oil it tomorrow, and buy wd40



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,223 ✭✭✭xxyyzz


    There's some magnificent trolling going on here 😂



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,131 ✭✭✭cletus


    Ah, he sorta ran out of steam near the end, there



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,184 ✭✭✭riclad


    I'll read up on adjusting gears and follow the instructions I think bikes are like cars most people do not all the repairs or basic maintenace they go to a mechanic or a bike repair shop, I don't see who is trolling who, I'm asking simple questions, my friend can fix any car or diagnose engine faults he taught himself by reading books he is not a pro mechanic , doing something yourself is a good feeling rather than going to a bike shop every time something goes wrong



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,974 ✭✭✭✭Flinty997



    In fairness to Riclad, I think he might very single minded (literal) in how he thinks about things. I don't think its trolling.

    I'm a lot heavier than you Riclad and I rarely break a spoke or get a puncture. I have puncture resistant slick tyres, keep the pressure up high. Mine are max 80psi. Check every other ride. Make sure all spokes are tight. Avoid kerbs or potholes.

    The gears are tricky to adjust. Might be worth getting someone to help you with them.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,184 ✭✭✭riclad


    I abandoned that bike, eg back wheel has 5 cogs, it's buckled, I'll sell it on on adverts ie for all my spare wheels are too big wide eg 7 cogs, I bought a large mountain bike from a friend the gears all work fine I got the gears working OK on the old bike

    Íl put the bike on adverts ie for sale as I can't replace the back wheel as its too small standard back wheels are too wide to fit the forks

    I rarely get a puncture I post here as a non expert who likes to do his own repairs

    I went to a bike shop I was told a new wheel is 15 euro at least

    i find the new bike more comfortable to ride eg the seat is higher than the old bike



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,974 ✭✭✭✭Flinty997


    Not much point starting a thread if you won't listen to anyone.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,721 ✭✭✭prunudo


    €15 for a new wheel, too hot to handle by the sounds of it.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,184 ✭✭✭riclad


    The gears are working , but I have a bike that uses standard wide cog wheels , I have 3 spare back wheeIs I don't need a bike that uses the smaller 5 cog wheels. I prefer the handlebar style on the new bike



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,130 ✭✭✭Explosive_Cornflake




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,131 ✭✭✭cletus


    You say you like to do your own repairs, but when people offer advice on thing that you could actut do at home to keep your bike running, you dismiss it.

    I'm not sure whether it is trolling or not, but either way, one of the stranger threads I've come across here



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