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The "Today I did something to my bike" thread

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    Swapped out the front pads for EBC HH Sintered as there was a little bit of juddering when coming to a stop

    Went out for a jolly yesterday to try them out while the roads were quiet the judder is almost gone not sure if it was the new pads or the calliper :-)

    Old pads looked pretty glazed and the right calliper was seized had a little bit of a mare removing the slide pins to clean & grease them up

    Have some new steering head bearings there so thinking of doing them over the Xmas break if the weather clears up a bit

    Also have new fork seals and oil there too so might be a good time to do them too even though the old ones are not leaking as the dust seals are looking a bit crusty I can only imagine the state of the fork oil

    Bike has 80000km on it now



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,483 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    Give your disc bobbins a clean and twist while your at it! 👍



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    Yeah that was the first thing I tried :-) but I was thinking I might rig up something in the drill and give them another blast when I have the wheel off

    Cheers



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    Changed the fork seals dust seals and oil

    Changed the steering head bearings also

    All 4 bolts for the mudguard sheared off so had to drill and tap :-( all 4

    Made up a tool to compress the fork spring from an old clamp :-)




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,829 ✭✭✭H_Lime


    Great work altogether, your getting things done.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    Bar end weights were looking a bit rusty and scratched so time for a tidy up :-) with a file and sandpaper then a lick of paint




  • Registered Users Posts: 458 ✭✭robbie_63


    Fair play looks good, I recently replaced mine as I had wrecked them fitting the heated grips.

    I'm planning on doing the chain and sprockets in a few weeks once the new shed is finally fitted, any other things I should change while I have the wheel off?

    I have a new chain slider as the current one looks very worn, Should I look at changing wheel bearings or seals while i'm there?



  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Today I swapped the stock brake and clutch levers for the Ducati by Rizoma ones. This should have been an easy 5 minute swap but turned out to be an absolute bastard of a job.


    The plunger on the stock levers had to be hammered out to fit them onto the new ones:

    Once fitted to the new lever, getting them back on was an ordeal. The plunger had to go into a rubber seal on the master cylinder which did not want to cooperate. Must have taken 20 minutes on each side trying to get the damn things in. Lots of profanity involved.

    Worth it though as the new ones look class:

    I have a new "supercomfort" seat and carbon fiber bits from Ducati in the post. Should arrive next week. The seat is badly needed as the stock one becomes fairly uncomfortable after an hour or so in the saddle.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    Nialler24

    "Today I swapped the stock brake and clutch levers for the Ducati by Rizoma ones. This should have been an easy 5 minute swap but turned out to be an absolute bastard of a job"

    Nothing is ever straightforward :-( is it What you think will just take a few mins turns to Sh1t



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    Hey Robbie

    I would have a look at the rear pads while you have the wheel off they are cheap and unless there is loads of meat on them I would consider swapping them and give the calliper a clean and grease

    Not sure about yours but my yoke has rubber Cush drive bits in the sprocket carrier Original Kawasaki are €9 each and there are 4

    Depending on the mileage Yeah I would also look at the wheel bearings and seals ( prob about €30 a set ) could not really tell if mine were muck till I took them out and when you gave them a shake there was a definite rattle but they appeared to be the original after 80000Km

    so swapped the front as well

    I have a cheap Chinese bearing pullers here if you need :-) and a chain riveter

    J



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    Replaced the stator a few months ago as the old one melted the plug

    Started the bike on Thurs and was a little surprised to see smoke coming from the new connector :-(

    Needless to say the new connector has melted a bit ( can be caused by a bad / loose connection )

    The plug in the piccy is the one on the cable from the stator ( male )

    The bike plug ( female ) got damaged / melted last time as well and was looking a bit dodgy so I cut them both off and replaced with 3 separate bullet connectors and soldered the wires in

    before changing the wires felt hot to touch

    After changing they are not hot to touch with the bike running but early days yet need to test out on the road but weather looks a bit off today



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,483 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    You could also get rid of the connectors completely.

    Condensation and damp can cause oxidisation on connectors resulting in more heat on them.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,111 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    I wouldn't, just pack them full of liquid moly battery grease.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    I was thinking of just soldering the wires together but I thought that if there was an issue and they started to heat up I would not be able to disconnect them but that's just me being pessimistic

    Where as with the bullet connectors I could disconnect them should they start to heat up and I reckon I could get prob 45 mis or so riding with no charge to get home

    but your prob right if there is no junction there should not be anything to heat up

    Cheers

    J



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    Yeah I could have a look in the local parts place to get some battery grease to keep the crap out :-)

    Cheers



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Best to wire direct from stator to reg/rec and then direct to battery via fused wire. Don’t use bullets they are not rated for the current produced in most cases. If you have to use a connector between stator use a decent connector not the **** unsealed type, deutsch is pretty good or similar type sealed connectors and use plenty of dielectric grease as well. Corrosion is what causes resistance and high temps, grease avoids that problem.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35,569 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    Silicone grease works great in keeping damp out of connectors.

    The alternator connection is often barely big enough so replace with larger connectors and wiring if possible. When I had to replace the R/R it came with a larger connector to go on the alternator wires.

    Scrap the cap!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,483 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    Time for a service.

    The spark plugs on the front cylinder are a bastard to get at so easier to remove tank and airbox to do them. 🙄




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    Yeah same on the V have to remove upper fairings +tank and airbox



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  • Registered Users Posts: 217 ✭✭KildareMan


    Made and fitted a tank strap to the Centenario

    Quite p[leased with the outcome.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,747 ✭✭✭Bluefoam




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    Lovely bit of work :-)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59


    Power washed the 650gs Twin today! and by power washed, I got caught out on a grocery run in the heavy rain !! Bike looks nice and clean now though



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35,569 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    Be easy to get at the plugs on a Guzzi 😁

    I picked up a new, in box Michelin TPMS cheap on adverts.

    No buttons, no controls, no wiring. Charge up the display unit on the inductive USB charger then pop it into the holder on the bike. The holder on the bike is magnetic (attaches firmly to the tank if you want) and also comes with a pretty strong 3M adhesive sticker. Replace the tyre valve caps with the ones from the kit, ride off and it all pairs up soon enough. The display then alternates between front and rear pressure every few seconds.


    Scrap the cap!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59


    I've TPMS on my bike as well, great for just keeping an eye on it. If i've low tyre pressure the bike gives me an automatic warning



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,794 ✭✭✭✭galwaytt


    Not a bad day on the spanners: fitted new 'dynamic' indicators to the young lads bike. Now it thinks its an Audi, lol,

    Fitted engine bars and a radiator card and bar risers to the SOs NC750s.

    Had bar risers ready to fit to my Wing, but she declared it sunny and so we dropped everything and hit the road to Lahinch. Lots of bikes out, so chatted to a few.

    Ode To The Motorist

    “And my existence, while grotesque and incomprehensible to you, generates funds to the exchequer. You don't want to acknowledge that as truth because, deep down in places you don't talk about at the Green Party, you want me on that road, you need me on that road. We use words like freedom, enjoyment, sport and community. We use these words as the backbone of a life spent instilling those values in our families and loved ones. You use them as a punch line. I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and sleeps under the tax revenue and the very freedom to spend it that I provide, and then questions the manner in which I provide it. I would rather you just said "thank you" and went on your way. Otherwise I suggest you pick up a bus pass and get the ********* ********* off the road” 



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,443 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    Bit of a wash and refreshed the rear brake fluid, waiting for new screws for the front master cylinder and fork seals, will do all that together.





  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,483 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    Speaking of fork seals.

    Went to Cork today on my zzr and when I got home there was oil pissing out of both forks.

    The joys of being laid up for a while 🙄

    New genuine ones ordered.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    Bummer

    Changed out the oil and dust seals on mine for genuine Kawasaki ones a few weeks back even though they were not leaking yet they just looked crusty



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    Christ on a bike :-) had a pain in my neck


    Now they are off the wall :-)

    J



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59


    Made a wheel barrow today




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,443 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy




  • Registered Users Posts: 89 ✭✭Fox Mulder





  • Registered Users Posts: 89 ✭✭Fox Mulder


    Sorry about the blank post above. I cant seem to find out how to edit it.

    Below are some pictures of a petrol cap and filler neck I have made for my Honda CB550 cafe racer project. The tank on the Honda is rusted beyond my skills to repair it so I have gotten a Royal Enfield Interceptor tank as a replacement. The tank normally uses a Monza style fuel cap but I am not a fan of it so I have made a replacement.

    The ring piece will be welded to the tank, the filler neck then bolts to this and Viton O-ring seals them.

    The cap itself is aluminium and has a nitrile o-ring which engages on the last thread or two on the fuel cap.

    The filler neck is made from two separate pieces. The threaded section and the flat plate are press fit together. I have fitted them so when the fuel cap is fully screwed down the cap is aligned along the centre line of the bike.

    Below are some pictures the cap being made.




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59


    I am well jealous of your skills with a lathe!! I'd love to be able to use one.



  • Registered Users Posts: 458 ✭✭robbie_63


    Wow amazing work there in fairness



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,747 ✭✭✭Bluefoam


    How do you knurl the edge? fantastic, it looks great!



  • Registered Users Posts: 89 ✭✭Fox Mulder


    I have a cheap ebay knurling tool. It has two rollers with grooves on them at 45 degrees. The rollers pinch the work piece and form the pattern as the part rotates. It works great on aluminum, on steel you cant apply enough pressure to fully form the diamonds and you kind of just get a cross hatched pattern.



  • Registered Users Posts: 89 ✭✭Fox Mulder


    Haha, as I have been at this bike project for ages now and there is no end in sight I don't think anyone is going to have the patience to wait for me to make some parts for them.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 337 ✭✭Betsy Og


    Added Shad Top Box Brackets, I already had Givi top box and plate which worked fine. Also, you can see it here but I put an Admore Light under the Top Box, has a accelerometer on it (lights when engine brake). Easy fit, even for me...😳....just take about 4 times longer than anyone else.

    I know it'd look better without the box (obv can take off the top box in 2 seconds) & the plate wouldn't stand out, but I don't think it looks desperate either. Will road test it, see if much crosswind difference (had it on a bigger bike and no issues, but that's a 125 so.... Handy to lock up a helmet, carry a gear bag etc (not a fan of backpacks if can help it). I had one of those Bagtec things over pillion seat, not v reliable to stay put & wouldn't fit much either. Am waiting on some cheapo crash bungs (small, barely notice I'd say) and I think that's it for this lady.





  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭goblin59


    Haha, i've a friend restoring a series 3 in the same lock up as I'm in, don't think he'd mind the wait for something like that to replace his old fuel cap.

    When I get my own permament shed a lathe is one of the first things I'm buying.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    Also have the Shad top box on mine I think its 40L

    The bracket does tend to block visibility of the brake light from anything up high like a van or truck

    I picked up a 8" light bar from eBay ages ago just haven't got to fitting it yet

    Where did you get the admore light ? is it any good

    ta



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 337 ✭✭Betsy Og


    I got it from their website, really quick, excellent product (super bright & initial modulation).....but..yikes...really expensive. On top of the price below there was postage from Canada & 23% import VAT.

    Anyway, I've burned the receipt and I don't want it ever mentioned again......😳😂. There's surely cheaper ways, or if it was being sold at a show or something you might do a lot better, but as a product I couldn't fault it.





  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    Ouch that is expensive :-)

    But it looks like a great bit of kit

    Will have to get round to connecting my bar only has 3 wires earth low power ( side lights ) and full on just need to pick up some kind of a plastic sleeve to run the wires through and mount it on the end of the top box bracket



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 337 ✭✭Betsy Og


    I got to connect it without drilling anywhere which was handy, and they have these pinch connectors for joining to the bike wires, so that was really simple and worked well.

    I turned off the tail light function, and didn't bother connecting the indicators. The lack of contrast between tail light and brake light was the main thing I was trying to overcome, so didn't want to recreate the problem with the bar. So now it's dormant until it screams HE'S BRAKING, which is all I wanted. Of a dark or dull day I can always dab the brake if I think the tail light is a bit buried under the bracket and topbox.

    If you're not sure of the wires on your bike let me know, Admore have a search function - not sure if you can find it direct on the website but there's a QR code with installation instructions that brings you to page that'll tell you what coloured wires Suzuki (or whoever) use for different functions.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    They look great really bright :-)

    Hopefully it will stop some fool running up your rear end



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 337 ✭✭Betsy Og




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,483 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    Getting ready to do these.

    Need a loan of a special tool so hopefully tomorrow afternoon.


    Seals arrived




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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    What oil & wt are you putting in ? just out of curiosity



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