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led install

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  • 26-02-2022 6:27am
    #1
    Josh2015
    Registered Users Posts: 43 ✭


    hi,

    I am replacing a light fitting with an LED, when I remove the fitting I find attached. Can someone explain the wiring please?

    DSC_0868.JPG




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    #2
    meercat
    Registered Users Posts: 4,746 ✭✭✭meercat


    Just connect your wires into the new fitting as originally done

    earth(green/yellow)

    neutral(blue)

    switched live(brown single,the one with black tape)

    don’t connect anything into the last remaining connector with the multiple brown cables. This is a permanent feed


    ensure power is turned off at the distribution board for safety



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    #3
    kirk.
    Registered Users Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    Yah turn off power at the board as there's a permanent feed

    Light switch won't isolate supply



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    #4
    Josh2015
    Registered Users Posts: 43 ✭Josh2015


    Thank you.

    What does permanent feed mean?



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    #5
    Padre_Pio
    Registered Users Posts: 5,231 ✭✭✭Padre_Pio


    Unswitched wires.

    Wires that stay live even when you turn off the light switch.



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    #6
    Josh2015
    Registered Users Posts: 43 ✭Josh2015


    Is it sufficient to turn off the upstairs lights fuse in the fuse box or should the main switch be turned off when working on the light fitting?



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    #7
    kirk.
    Registered Users Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.



    If in doubt turn off the main isolator

    Light switch never really isolates anyhow with looped neutrals unless you have a single t+e at the luminaire , light switches are not designed to isolate anyhow only control the light

    MCB may not even isolate either if your in bad luck separating neutrals and there's a borrowed neutral connected



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    #8
    kirk.
    Registered Users Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    You're supposed to be proving the supply is dead after switching off which can be problem for DIY

    At a minimum you want a voltstick if you're not doing above



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    #9
    Gant21
    Registered Users Posts: 1,261 ✭✭✭Gant21


    A Chicken stick is a visual guide at best. Prices of multi meters are so cheap I would recommend a meter. A phase tester would be better than a chicken stick and that’s clutching at straw’s



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    #10
    kirk.
    Registered Users Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    What's a chicken stick

    If you're deriding the voltstick you probably don't use them very much

    Phase testers and multimeters are not much good



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    #11
    goingnowhere
    Registered Users Posts: 4,190 ✭✭✭goingnowhere


    4 groups of incoming wires

    CPC/Earth yellow/green

    Neutral blue

    Brown with black switched live

    Brown live <-DONT CONNECT TO THIS



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    #12
    kirk.
    Registered Users Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    I never liked that 3-plate system except for bungalows maybe where it was a convenient system for wiring

    Most things domestic should be idiot proof so the loop to switch and single t+e to the light was a safer system where the homeowner is liable to be changing fittings



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    #13
    Josh2015
    Registered Users Posts: 43 ✭Josh2015


    Is the purpose of the 3 unswitched wires to provide power to other lights independently of this light?

    Must these 3 wires be joined to the same single connector.



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    #14
    kirk.
    Registered Users Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118712111#Comment_118712111

    Ya that's it and they go back the way they are



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    #15
    Josh2015
    Registered Users Posts: 43 ✭Josh2015


    Why are there 2 neutral wires as opposed to just one?



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    #16
    meercat
    Registered Users Posts: 4,746 ✭✭✭meercat


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118712135#Comment_118712135

    One is fed from previous light (or distribution board)

    the other then connects to the next light

    the last light on the circuit will only have one



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    #17
    kirk.
    Registered Users Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118712135#Comment_118712135

    The neutral and feed are both being looped from light to light to supply each one

    There's 3 feeds cos you have to drop one to the switch and the single back (black tape at the light there ) switches on the light

    I don't really like it for domestic , the single t+e at the light , supplied from the switch is a better system

    Neutral at switch then also covers you for smart wiring



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    #18
    Josh2015
    Registered Users Posts: 43 ✭Josh2015


    have managed to install the LED light. It requires the light switch on the wall to be left on 24/7 in order that the remote control can turn the light off and on, change brightness etc.

    Is it safe for the wall switch to be in the on position continuously?



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    #19
    kirk.
    Registered Users Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118716612#Comment_118716612

    Depends on the fitting really , install method etc., lot of factors but probably not a hazard

    Anything electronic energised continuously can be a hazard to a degree

    AFAIK there's no regulation says you need a lightswitch , control however you like and MCB protects circuit and isolates supply



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    #20
    jumbone
    Registered Users Posts: 609 ✭✭✭jumbone


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118716612#Comment_118716612

    Safe enough yeah, you might consider changing the switch to something like this

    https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/1146392

    and mounting a remote next to it



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