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Solar PV Hints, Tips & Troubleshooting

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  • Registered Users Posts: 516 ✭✭✭The devils


    I currently have heat pump and tks to the guys here I installed a shelly relay.

    Comes on at 6.30 and off at 19.30 from march to September. Winter will be different though..

    Also have EV car which can be charged by night rate or during pv excess when batteries are fully charged.

    However when I need to charge EV at night the batteries will drain down..so I'll have to charge car and batteries through the invertor (BOTH) if that makes sense.



  • Registered Users Posts: 444 ✭✭alan kelly


    Ah good auld Will Smith 😂😂

    Interesting that I may not need a battery,, A few pages back someone said the battery could charge on the off peak and supply the house during the daytime.. I had looked at a 5k Pure Drive. I need to do more research.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,528 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    That may have been me recommending a battery Alan. So many post/people, hard to remember names.

    I'd still (generally) stand by that viewpoint. With an EV, it would on the surface seem that you have a huge battery there to soak up the excess, and in some respects that's right. However, a couple of things have to happen.

    1. The EV has to be sitting in the driveway, meaning if you use the EV to drive into work and the sun is shining.....then its difficult for the EV to soak up the excess if it's sitting in the carpark outside of where you work! Unless you have a very (very) long extension cable! :-) If you work from home, this problem goes away though right?
    2. No - or at least not really. Your working from home and your EV soaks up 20Kwhr on (say) Monday and the battery gets charged. Brilliant! 20Kwhr is about 100km of driving distance. Will you (from sundown on Monday to Tuesday morning) drive 100Km to "make space" for another 20Kwhr to be there in the battery for Tuesday's .... considering you work from home.

    Course these are just generalities. Sure at the weekend, the car might be there but it's worth thinking about these things if your planning things so that you don't get a shock that you might not have thought about when deciding.

    (In general - of course there are edge cases) With an EV i think 5Kwhr is "about right", anything larger is covered by the EV as a "excess dump". As with all house batteries..... you NEED to crunch the numbers. Make sure that it's "fit for purpose" for your house and that your not paying WAAAY over the odds for a battery. There are of course other reasons for buying a battery (grid balancing etc), but one would presume that you want it to at least break even in 10-12 years.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,136 ✭✭✭championc


    You will not likely discharge any battery power during the non-BST time of year. You would be using night-rate for that. During BST, you can be somewhat juggling as to whether to put any or a fractional charge into batteries.

    However, this is all somewhat dependent on your battery size. For the potential savings of a single 2.4 kW Pylontech, it would make little sense to micro-manage it, given it's small capacity. But a 10kW would be a totally different story.



  • Registered Users Posts: 444 ✭✭alan kelly


    Thanks folks,

    The heat pump pulls an average of 30kwh but only 10kwh in the summer for hot water alone.

    We will have 2 hybrids that will each prob take 3hrs to charge and won't be stuck at home all day.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,136 ✭✭✭championc


    Jayses, that seems high, and is that with an air-tightness house with an A something rating ?



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,398 ✭✭✭randombar


    Looking for advice guys.

    Want to max out the panels now that I've ordered the batteries :D

    Just wondering what people would recommend for this space?

    It is south by south west facing.

    I was thinking I could slope them down to the garden potentially or maybe have them above the ones that are there leaning off the wall.

    What is the max recommended slope?

    Also what is the best value PV Panel at the moment, I see 700w which would suit the space but are they a lot more expensive?



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,528 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    Yeah, when I saw that, like you I thought you could effectively make a little "lean too" area. Sink a few posts into the ground 3-4 feet drop a little cement in there and add 5 more panels of similar spec to the 5 you already have on the actual roof. The panels effectively creating a bit of a dry area in underneath them. Guess you could store things there if needed.

    The angle of the extension angle would need to be the same as the existing roof, and you would need to get the same spec panels as the ones that you already have, unless you go the optimizers route. If you got 5x of the identical same panels, you could change the angle of the roof (without optimisers), but you would have to wire the 2x arrays (the one on the new roof and the existing) one in parallel.

    Post edited by bullit_dodger on


  • Registered Users Posts: 361 ✭✭samdeluxjones


    Ignore that, added picture then couldn't delete it..



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,398 ✭✭✭randombar


    So the panels are 300W Mono Si 60 Cells

    Would I be better off trying to sell those 5 and get 10 x 450 or higher without optimisers, not sure would I get much for existing panels though.

    Not even sure where to order panels from at the moment to be honest, any recommendations?

    Would have to upgrade my inverter too (RHI-3.6K-48ES), although at this stage I'd like to split my hybrid inverter in two. I'm having issues with the batteries charging the car as Zappi can't see what the actual PV generation is.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,528 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    Those higher wattage panels (like the 450 or even the 700w jobbie you mentioned earlier) have their purpose, but they are also bigger than the "standard" 370Watt panels that are the norm. Basically it's roughly the same power for every sq meter of panels irrespective of if it's 370W or 700W, it's just that your buying fewer larger ones if you follow me? But getting the same power. As mentioned larger panels have their purpose and depending on your surface area you might be able to fit 5 large panels in a space but only 5 "regular ones", you need to see what works for you with the dimensions you have.

    Eyeballing it, i would doubt you will fit the large 700 watt ones there on your existing roof. You can get dimensions for a lot of the panels from midsummer.ie e.g. Midsummer Renewables (not endorsing qcells over any other one, but just wanted to give you a link to the site) or Solar PV Panel for Residential Commercial use (solartricity.ie)

    Aside: Generally it's not a great idea for solar power -> to charge house battery -> charge EV. You have a few losses along the way that would be best avoided. It's not "wrong" but if you could charge solar -> EV that would be best and you'll maximise your system production.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,398 ✭✭✭randombar


    Yup, there's a lot of waste at the moment with the hybrid inverter and zappi. The problem I have is I have no way currently that I know of, of getting zappi to talk to the batteries connected to the inverter. Zappi sees power coming from inverter and thinks it must be PV and PV sees load drawn by zappi thinking the house must need more power.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,528 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    Sadly don't know enough about it, as I don't have a EV/Zappi, but if you haven't already posted.....lots of knowledge here from more informed people than me. Someone might be able to steer you right.

    As a interim solution using the granny plug and not the Zappi would probably circumvent the problem albeit you'd probably be limited to 2-3kw charging. I know it's a bit of a waste of the Zappi though, I get that. Your inverter should just see the load from the EV as a part of the house and divert whatever solar production your getting to the house load (which would be effectively the EV) . You might have to set a low charge rate on the car (say 1.5kw), but you'd avoid those losses which could be 20-30% of your production. Shame to see that wasted.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,136 ✭✭✭championc


    Your best bet might be to use the ECO mode. It charges the car at a minimum of 1.4kW and a max of your excess from the inverter. So if a cloud comes over, it stays charging at the minimum. It also stays charging until you tell it to stop.

    So it is a way of charging the car and stopping the hybrid DC connected battery taking the charge.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,398 ✭✭✭randombar


    I think I can set the export margin to 100W which might also help.

    https://support.myenergi.com/hc/en-gb/articles/4716922623633-Hybrid-PV-and-Battery-How-to-stop-your-myenergi-devices-draining-the-battery-in-ECO-

    In the meantime I will look at the size of the roof and see what I can do there.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,136 ✭✭✭championc


    Not sure I really understand this. ECO+ is supposed to only start charging once excess exceeds 1.4kW. And as far as I know, a Hybrid will only allow generated power out of the inverter once the battery is full.



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,170 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    Yeah, the problem is though that depending on how your EVSE is wired (from CU or meter box), your Hybrid inverter may or may not be able to see it as load. If the latter, you can drain your house battery into the car battery. If the latter, the Zappi's ECO+ mode will only run on true export.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,398 ✭✭✭randombar


    Solis hybrid can draw power even when the battery is only half full.

    Ya I've the car charger coming from the CU next to the inverter. By right it should be coming from the CU in the house I guess. I really have to draw it out for myself at some stage.



  • Registered Users Posts: 9,760 ✭✭✭Effects


    Looking for some advice on adding panels to my home system at the moment. I've got 6 x 290w trina solar panels. I can't seem to find the same panels available now. If I add some other panels currently available, about 365w each, am I right to think they'll be pulled down to 290w output of the original panels?

    The place I bought my original kit only seems to have panels 365w and higher for sale anyway.

    I had thought my inverter had inputs for two strings, but it actually only has one.

    Possibly going to change to a hybrid inverter and run a battery pack, but not a for a few years.



  • Registered Users Posts: 430 ✭✭Geeyfds53573


    I missed the start but on sky news last night this company and their product was showcased -looks great but cost seems the issue



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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,398 ✭✭✭randombar


    If it was me I'd go with a new hybrid inverter and just leave out the battery pack for now. You might need to upgrade anyway if you're adding a lot more panels.



  • Registered Users Posts: 9,760 ✭✭✭Effects


    Is there any point changing my inverter now though? Current inverter is 1.5kw, and hoping the extra panels will give me closer to the max op of the inverter for more of the day.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,398 ✭✭✭randombar


    If you've 6 * 290 at the moment technically your max capacity is already over the inverter @ 1,740, I'm no expert but I don't think you can go too much over the inverter.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,136 ✭✭✭championc


    It's all about looking at the data of the output. It may be that the output does indeed hit 1.5kW at solar noon and your graph ends up with a flat top (clipping), but you might only lose out on 100w or so.

    However, to add any extra is down to the DC Input max voltage on the spec of the inverter. You need to find the VOC for your panel type x 6. So you are likely to be close to max.

    If you add more panels, you could just swap the inverter for a standard 3kW unit and then add a dedicated separate Storage Inverter (like the Sofar ME3000) later.



  • Registered Users Posts: 191 ✭✭Curiousness99


    Apologies for thread pollution....but I just looked at our electricity usage.bl over the last 120 days we used 10k kWhs... (old heat pump and big house, in hilly exposed site)


    I've a day and night reader but nearly all usage is on the day rate


    Trying to confirm the battery size I'd need charge the battery at night rate and drawdown during the day; am I right am using 83kHW a day I'd need a battery that size, if so I assume that would be very costly.


    Thanks in advance



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,341 ✭✭✭Nelbert


    Hilly exposed site..... Solar and wind an option? You'd cut down the battery size requirements massively if you generated enough to eat in to your predominantly day rate consumption.



  • Registered Users Posts: 191 ✭✭Curiousness99


    Based on my research so far, doesnt seem to be many companies offering solutions on this. Seem to read about ealry adopters having equipment which is expensive to fix and hard to find people to service.


    The combination of wind and solar is very appealing and I assume wind might be good source in the winter months when solar is not so good



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Heatpumps have resistive heaters in them,, as a backup.

    And if it can't make up the heat in it's normal way, due to say a refridegent loss etc it relies on the heater, and that uses 3-4 times more electric to obtain the same amount of heat. - get it looked at, especially if it's old.

    It's no different from Aircon in cars. And people don't think twice about getting them regassed/pressure checked.



  • Administrators Posts: 370 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭System


    Shuffled a few posts over from the quotes page.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 925 ✭✭✭OfTheMarsWongs


    Hi. Looking for some advice. I'm getting 3.6kw pv panels with eddi installed soon and as timing would have it also have to get the shower retiled.

    Was thinking as the walls being striped it would be a good time to get a new shower unit. Current one (instantaenous) is 10+ years old.

    I mentioned this to the guy doing the survey for the panels and he recommended looking at changing to a pump shower.

    I'm looking for some comparison tools to try and figure out which would end up using more grid electricity. Am not getting a battery.



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