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General chat thread... Links, pictures, banter etc

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,253 ✭✭✭goblin59


    give overlanders in Gorey a shout, Chatting to Aran the other month and he mentioned they can get them in.

    I got YSS for my airhead,



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,597 ✭✭✭Richard tea




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35,329 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    Wemoto have a .ie website so should be able to sell to you VAT free.

    Scrap the cap!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,253 ✭✭✭goblin59


    There is a cheaper mod for a rear shock than a YSS though, I've a friend who got the shock off a CB600r on his NC700x with zero issues.

    He's selling the bike now though as he just got a F800gs

    https://www.donedeal.ie/motorbikes-for-sale/nc700x-2012/30631048



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 337 ✭✭Betsy Og


    Hope the health recovers. What do you think of it anyway? I have a 2020 XT, bought last September, only recently added the crashbars etc. Just as reference I paid €6,900 in Germany, then 18m.o., 16k on it, +€800 VRT (& I guess ferry etc etc if you don't count it as a "trip").

    For anyone out there considering it I think they're a great bike, I've only had smaller bikes so maybe I can't give compelling comparisons, but extensive youtube & magazine research 😳tells me they're a very solid purchase. Hope you get a good price for it and best of luck.👍️



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  • Moderators, Business & Finance Moderators Posts: 17,744 Mod ✭✭✭✭Henry Ford III


    A gorgeous day in the west. Sunny and warm. The Suzuki might get an airing later......



  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 663 CMod ✭✭✭✭LIGHTNING


    Picked up a new bike on Saturday, boy oh boy the fun of getting a new bike at the moment due to all the world parts shortages.

    KTM 390 duke - Nothing due in this year

    Kawasaski - pretty much nothing I wanted in this year

    Yamaha - long delay in getting a number of bikes in



  • Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators, Social & Fun Moderators, Regional West Moderators Posts: 60,429 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gremlinertia


    What did you get?

    Oops saw on other thread, health to ride 😉



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,442 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    Congrats on the new machine!


    Insurance is mental in this country, Principal want €850 to insure me on the current bike (CBR 600F) and add the 954 Blade.


    CN want €650 for just the Blade but if I add the 600 it's... €648, both fully comp.

    There really needs to be more transparency. The quote with CN also includes €50 loading because I was rear ended.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    Lovley day for a scoot today :-)

    Got out twice




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  • Moderators, Business & Finance Moderators Posts: 17,744 Mod ✭✭✭✭Henry Ford III




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,253 ✭✭✭goblin59




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,452 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    Out spinning the last 3 days.

    I am going to try to squeeze one more spin in today.

    A piss stop somewhere in the middle of nowhere




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,597 ✭✭✭Richard tea


    I did. Total including shipping was €450. Top bolt was the hardest part of the job.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,253 ✭✭✭goblin59


    Thats grand!

    They're not bad shocks from whats I've read, very hard to beat on price for new



  • Registered Users Posts: 287 ✭✭Acquiescence


    The price of petrol is really starting to knock the shine off longer spins.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35,329 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    The SW-Motech power socket blew its fuse for no apparent reason again 🙄

    The wires enter at close to 90 degrees so can't get the supplied rubber boot over the connections. Shrink wrap tube I suppose for the win... This is in the upper fairing and should be completely dry short of a firehose aimed up from beneath so I'm baffled as to why it blew but you never know with electricals, shrink wrap both wires (only live is currently shrink wrapped - see what I did there), shrink wrap the both of them then try to get a large diameter shrink wrap over the whole lot

    Scrap the cap!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,452 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    Speaking of electrics...

    I was getting the odd non start on first press of starter with the last couple of weeks. Dash cutting off and everything dead.

    Second press bike starts.

    Should have gotten rid of this connector long ago but kept putting to the back of my mind.

    Hopefully that will sort it.


    Post edited by blade1 on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,452 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    That's that gone anyway!





  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35,329 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    Is that the main alternator connection? Comically undersized if so.

    Scrap the cap!



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,452 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    Well it's one of two connectors between the reg/rectifier and the stator.

    The second one is a barrel type connector and is located between the cylinders.

    It is more robust than that brown connector but can still be a bit prone to overheating.

    Yeah those brown connectors are fairly shite.



  • Registered Users Posts: 458 ✭✭robbie_63


    Where's the roll and a half of insulating tape tying everything together, or maybe that's just the wiring on my bike!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,452 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    Heat shrink and self soldering heat shrink connectors means insulated tape can take early retirement for the most part.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    What kind of R/R is standard on those, Shindengen SH or FH?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,452 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    Not certain what the standard ones are.

    From my experience, they don't give trouble once the connectors are gotten rid of on gen1 rsv's

    On gen2 rsv's (up to 2009)I know some fit a series reg/rectifier but the main cause of the problem on them is the flywheel is too powerful so burns out the stator.

    An upgraded genuine flywheel costs about €1000

    There is a lad working in austria with Rotax that for €70 can de-magnetize the flywheel which takes it from 500w to 370w.

    So a no brainer really.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Funnily enough, I've been testing a new RR for a Canadian company called RMstator, they do a huge amount of aftermarket RR/Stators etc.

    They actually have a kit for the RSV that uses a series RR and a thinner Stator to allow better cooling as the issue is so common.

    https://rmstator.com/en_ca/solution-kit-generator-stator-machined-aluminum-series-regulator-for-aprilia-rsv-tuono-1000-r-2004-2009



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,452 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    I've a mod done to the oil return line (dry sump) on my gen2 Tuono where it sprays oil onto the stator to help keep it cooler.

    It's kept it good with around 5 years but if the stator does ever fail I'll be whipping out the flywheel and sending it to yer man in Austria.

    Another regular poster here has also done the oil return mod to his recently aquired Tuono so I hope it does the job for him.


    If buying a regulator the series ones would be the best I think as they only use what's needed when needed..

    Those kits like you linked will definitely be a big improvement but if you want to sort it properly once and for all it's the flywheel that needs sorting.


    Tapped into the oil return where the arrow on the left is.

    Extra oil line added and enter flywheel cover where arrow on right is.


    Post edited by blade1 on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,595 ✭✭✭hairyslug


    Looking for some advice here. The bike is a DR750, I did a front pad change a few weeks back, noticed that the pistons were in bits so got AMI to rebuild the calliper. I refitted it, bled it, and then bled it some more but it remains quite spongy and while I have only used the brake as a test under 5kph, I don’t trust it fully. I have also noticed that it is weeping slightly from the lid on the master cylinder. Is there something I’m missing here, I’m not getting any air out when I try and bleed but it remains spongy. I have the lever tied back for the night to see if that makes a difference.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,253 ✭✭✭goblin59


    if its a complete rebuild you could still have air in the system. it took me most of an afternoon to sucessfully bleed the DR650 front brake.

    If you can force fluid in through the bleed nipple and out the master cylinder you should push more of the bubbles out.



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  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 663 CMod ✭✭✭✭LIGHTNING


    Had an ESB van just try to swipe me off the road this morning. I had to swerve and hit the brakes. Pulled up alongside him and he said "I saw you whats the problem?" Unreal



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