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Solar for Beginners [ask your questions here]

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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,520 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    Have a read of the FAQ.

    Interested in Solar PV? Read this FAQ first. — boards.ie - Now Ye're Talkin'

    it's got a lot of good information in there, including a general "rule of thumb" formula that people use.

    €1.1k per 1kWp in panels + €1K per 2.0kWh in battery + €500 (diverter/Eddi) = Rough price to pay. 

    I modified it a little based on price hikes over the past 12 months. It's worth noting that this is only a guideline. Guideline. If you are quoted withing a few hundred euros, that's fine. If you are being quoted (literally) €1000's more, then it's time to get another quote.

    You have two types of inverters. Standard and hybrid. You need a hybrid inverter if you want to have a battery and hybrids are a little more expensive. If you don't get a battery and never plan on getting one, then you can go without a hybrid. That said, I think 80% of people would gain benifit from a battery. Forget FIT (feed-in-tarrif), and if you go for a standard hybrid inverter, you can't at a later stage add a battery.



  • Registered Users Posts: 180 ✭✭cloughy


    thank you very much for the above, knew the approx 1000 per kW panel, but wasn't aware of the battery cost, and these figures should include the installation, and other bits and pieces, so using the formula then can compare the quotes to see the wood from the trees give or take a few hundred.


    And the above formula is for the Cost after deducting the Grant, isnt it.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,043 ✭✭✭TaurenDruid


    I'm wondering what would be the use case for not getting a battery? If you can generate more power than you need at any given time, why not store it in a battery until you do need it, when it's dark or cloudy? Yes, you can in theory sell the excess back to the grid if you don't have a battery, but you'll still need to buy power back yourself (at a much higher higher cost than what you sold it for), when it's dark or cloudy. Yes, you might save €3,000 for a 6kWh battery, but you'll end up paying way more for "wasted" electricity you've bought back over the lifetime of the battery. Or am I missing something?



  • Registered Users Posts: 180 ✭✭cloughy


    I suppose there are installers who try to push away from a battery, citing lifespan, so if it lasts 10years, then the cost is €300 a year that you would need to save in electricity bills to make it worthwhile,

    I think its worthwhile getting a battery to store excess, fill overnight to use during the day, but a lot seems to just quote for panels saying that your panel size wouldn't justify a battery.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,043 ✭✭✭TaurenDruid



    I guess the answer is "it depends". I mean, 3 years ago, I would have said we'd definitely need a battery to justify having solar at all: nobody in the house during the day, so minimal power use. Everyone arriving in between 4pm and 7pm, showers, cooking, TV, computers, charging phones, kettles. Six months of the year, there'd be no solar being generated at those times. Diesel car.

    3 years on: Most people at home most of the day (working from home), most days of the week, so power being used constantly for computers, some lights, maybe cooking at lunchtime or a slow cooker going for a few hours. Nothing heavy, but it mounds up. So theoretically less need for a battery, but now we're also looking a) massively higher electricity bills; b) next car being a plug-in hybrid or full EV, which would be charging overnight. €300/year saving needed to break even on the battery, but my electricity bill last month was €220 - compared to one in December 2020 which was €120! I think the battery will definitely save me more than €300/year!



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  • Registered Users Posts: 12,556 ✭✭✭✭AckwelFoley


    My theory around a battery is not the saving now, but future savings. All homes are getting a smart meter weather you like it or now, when that's fully implemented watch a see the ESB bull ride you for peak hour usage between 5 and 7pm. It at that point on a clear blue day I don't intend paying for electricity



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,520 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    It's a good question that .... reasons to not get a battery. It's been addressed a few times, but never directly. There are actually some (legitimate) reasons why you wouldn't get a battery. The easy one that springs to mind is if you have a small roof. You may only have 5-6 panels - let's call it 2.5kwp. With most house loads being 500watts or there abouts (it does differ of course), you may not have enough "excess" over your base load to fill a battery regularly enough to make it worthwhile in outlaying €1500 for even a small 2.5kwhr battery. If you are in the house for example, you could simply turn on the washing machine and that would soak up most of your excess that day negating the need for a battery.

    The bigger installations, the 5Kwp and above, it becomes more economical as you can more easily fill batteries as you have greater excess over base load, and it becomes lucrative to "load shift", charge it up at night time and then use those units during the day. I save about €1/day alone doing this on a 8.2Kwhr battery.

    Overall, batteries are something which (in general) are to be recommended. You definitely need to do your sums though - last thing you want is to over spend on the price or buy a battery which is too big. These will take 15-20 years to payback, if at all.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,735 ✭✭✭yankinlk


    I think you have to start with "how many KWh do i use per day?" and work back from there. I kind of think - 1/4 the amount you consume perday is a good starting point for a battery size. ie if you use 20 per day then 5Kw battery makes sense. Larger may be usefull but take longer to pay back.

    The key as someone else has stated - is to USE the battery everyday. - you have to be able to fill it and drain it in every 24 hour period - for 10 years. This also means you need to be able to generate enough electricy from your panels to fill that battery every day... a bit like building a Computer... CPU memeory and GPU all work together - undersize anyone and the whole thing runs slow.

    If you only use say 4 KWh per day - then a battery might not be worth it. They dont make 1Kw batteries normally.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,043 ✭✭✭TaurenDruid


    That makes a lot of sense, though I would add in to look at expected future use. We can't plan for things like COVID (nobody in the house during the day -> everyone in the house during the day) but I do know that within 5 years, my car will require a plug.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,932 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    It's been covered many times before, you can decline installation of a Smart Meter

    My stuff for sale on Adverts inc. EDDI, hot water cylinder, roof rails...

    Public Profile active ads for slave1 (adverts.ie)



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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,489 ✭✭✭Ginger83


    Does the system need to be wired to the fuseboard or meter box or both?

    My fuseboard may be difficult to get to from the attic.



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,159 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    Fuseboard. Might be able to fish 6mm2 down behind the plasterboard if drylined.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,489 ✭✭✭Ginger83


    I may have to look into this as it's an old stone building with the fuseboard in a separate single storey extension.



  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators Posts: 6,521 Mod ✭✭✭✭Irish Steve


    looking for ideas on stockists of a suitable meter or device with logging software so that I can establish some electric usage figures over time.

    I can get daily usage, as long as I remember to go out at the same time each day to read the meter, but I could ideally do with getting some ideas on what the peak usages are during the day and night periods, so I can do some more appropriate planning on what sort of size units will be appropriate for Solar PV system.

    Due to the nature of the system here, I can easily get access to a tail to put a clamp meter on to measure, but it's the monitoring device that will be the key to this, and a quick search of a couple of the suppliers that I'm aware of didn't show anything that would give me what I'm looking for, though that may be a result of using the wrong search terms.

    Shore, if it was easy, everybody would be doin it.😁



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,159 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan




  • Registered Users Posts: 5,116 ✭✭✭John mac


    i got a shelly 4 weeks ago , i had an owl years ago but died a death , with the shelly i can see the house usage , and a i have another clamp on the garage (for now )

    v easy to install . anyone in the house can access the current info via ip address.

    the app gives a daily usage can also down load to excel and play with pivot tables etc ,,

    bought it direct .

    ~€65



  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators Posts: 6,521 Mod ✭✭✭✭Irish Steve


    John,

    Where did you order from, looks like it could do what I need.

    Thanks

    Shore, if it was easy, everybody would be doin it.😁



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,116 ✭✭✭John mac


    one of these , , with 2 50anp clamps 49.90 with vat and shipping cane to €68.01



  • Registered Users Posts: 43 Emperor Tomato Ketchup


    Hi Bit of a solar dummy here - though I've read a lot of the threads so definitely less so. Appreciate the knowledge. Got an annual usage around 2.5 -3kWH but have a new EV so with home charging we can expect that to increase. Working patterns are hard to predict currently but likely some home working will continue. Though I'm thinking a (modest sized) battery will still be a good long term option as there's always a lot of evening electric usage. I know there's the argument that an EV might replace a battery but as we just had a bit of an inheritance we can afford to install a good system as an investment in both financial and more general sustainability sense. House is more or less north/south so front of the house gets plenty of sun.

    So is this the thread where I ask about PMs of reputable suppliers (I'm in Dublin) so I can get to the next stage? Hints appreciated.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,520 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    Best place for looking for suppliers and quotes is over in the quotes thread (where you'll get a good feeling for what's good.....and more importantly what's "not so good")

    Domestic Solar PV Quotes 2022 - Page 59 — boards.ie - Now Ye're Talkin'



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  • Registered Users Posts: 43 Emperor Tomato Ketchup


    Thanks. I wasn't sure if that was just for when you already have a quote.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,213 ✭✭✭digiman


    Not sure if this is the best thread to ask in or not, but I'd like to know a bit more about start-up voltage for a newbie

    I'm going to have 2 strings, 1 facing south with 4*400W panels and another facing east that will have 8*400kW panels and might even add 2 more that would be shaded a small part of the time.

    For the 4 panels facing south, would I have any concerns about start-up voltage? According to the specs the Solis inverter has 120V start-up voltage and the panels have the specs below. How can I tell if I would have any issues with these 4 panels causing the inverter to start? My panel should be the JKM400N-6RL3-B



    Also, how well would I expect these to perform on a cloudy day and how much does that impact the start-up voltage?



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,520 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    You should be fine with 4 panels. I can't remember if it's the Open circuit (OC) or the loading one that matters, but I'm reasonably sure it's the open circuit and if the startup is 120v, then your well covered with 4x40volts.

    As for how it performs on a cloudy day. That is very much how long is a piece of string type question. Typically though on an overcast day (no sun, but the sky is bright) you might get 20% of your rated capacity. On a dark wet day.......5-10%. None of that affects startup voltage. The amount of power which is taken from the panels is driven by the amps, not the voltage.

    If your worry is can you run 4 panels.....you should be fine mate (I've 4 panels myself on a string and the startup voltage is also 120v - and I get production, as limited as it sometimes is, on wet overcast days too no problem)



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,213 ✭✭✭digiman


    So what actually impacts the startup voltage? Trying to find some answers online but struggling to see anything.




  • Registered Users Posts: 4,213 ✭✭✭digiman


    Actually found this article that seems quite helpful, need to do some calculations though!


    https://www.cedgreentech.com/article/solar-inverter-string-design-calculations



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,556 ✭✭✭✭AckwelFoley


    It was mentioned here that when the grid is down that solar is down.

    I've heard that there's a switch or a relay that can be installed that can turn off solar access to grid to keep solar up while grid is off


    Is this true?



  • Registered Users Posts: 76 ✭✭littlecopilot


    Sorry if it's a silly question, when you're getting providers out for quotes do they charge you for the survey/quote?



  • Registered Users Posts: 219 ✭✭millb


    No they don't. Some do a sales visit and some give you a quote based on Google Earth & some photos..



  • Registered Users Posts: 219 ✭✭millb


    I have a Solis single phase inverter "A.C Coupled Inverter" connected to my battery storage (pylontech).


    For some reason it has no Generation input (I have 4 microinvertors) and I'm having trouble figuring out the m.ginlong.com reports / APP because daily figures do not match the Eddi / Harvi data and the ESB Bill. Is there anyone who has solved this crux as my supplier is no help.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,469 ✭✭✭MAULBROOK


    Absolutely not, is someone trying to. If they are please PM me with the company name.

    Payment for quotes is not on.

    BTW its not a silly question at all.



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