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Solar for Beginners [ask your questions here]

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  • Moderators, Arts Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 10,654 Mod ✭✭✭✭Hellrazer


    Are those plug in grid tie inverters legal over here?



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,443 ✭✭✭kuang1


    Hi everyone.

    Couldn't find a thread specific for my query, so gonna chance my arm here.

    Recently got solar panels installed, working well, v happy.


    My issue is with the claiming of the SEAI grant. My house is almost 3 years old, and allocated a BER of A2 on completion of build.

    SEAI require me to get another BER done in order to claim the grant successfully.

    Given that SEAI's requirement is for the BER be equal to, or better than C after completion of the work, Getting a BER assessment on my place is entirely redundant for this purpose.

    I appreciate that part of the grant is dedicated to the cost of the BER being done, but I'm happy to give up that portion of the grant. It's just another example of bureaucracy gone daft imo.


    I've just emailed them with all of this, and provided a copy of my existing BER, so will post back here if/when they respond.

    Was also curious if anyone here found themselves in the same boat.

    (Apologies if this has been covered before. Had a quick search but couldn't find anything.)



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,469 ✭✭✭MAULBROOK


    It will come back saying "The computer says no".



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,520 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    On the surface, I agree with you - it looks daft. The BER is good for 10 years I believe. To be balanced though (and I'm not agreeing with it, just being balanced) you could argue that you've done some modifications on the structure of your house. For example, while you put in solar and it's working, let's say the installers left a gaping hole in the roof where a shed load of heat is escaping, or some other issue. Of course, that shouldn't happen, but I see why they might want a BER post installation. Again, not agreeing with it as it's a bit "reaching" if you ask me, but ok.....

    Aside: Didn't they get rid of the BER to "C" level with the changes in the grant scheme in Dec'21 ?



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,024 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    They did remove the requirement for a ber of C but the new rules still need a ber done after the works.

    It's in the new rules, so that box needs ticked.

    And technically as you have works done the original ber is invalid?/incorrect

    Do you know who done the first ber? Contact them, as to add the solar is a simple affair

    With mine, I had a pre works ber done, (the survey but no official documents) so when the solar was put in it was just a matter if adding it and getting the official cert.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,693 ✭✭✭SouthWesterly


    Same here. Hit a pre install bet done to endure I'd pass muster with panels.

    House was a C1 up from D1 when bought and went to B3 with panels



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,443 ✭✭✭kuang1


    Thanks for the responses.

    Yeah that's a good idea to get in touch with my original BER guy, see what he'll do.

    Am I right in thinking a BER is in the region of €250?



  • Registered Users Posts: 18,067 ✭✭✭✭fryup


    Two Simple Questions - How much (ballpark) to install solar panels on a average size bungalow like this...

    and would solar panels in themselves be enough to power a house for a year? or would i still have to rely on the grid?



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,556 ✭✭✭✭AckwelFoley


    You will always still rely on the grid. Winter output particularly December wouldn't fry an egg. The goal is to reduce your use of the grid over the year.

    Size of house is one thing but the biggest factor is actual usage. Check your ESB bulls over 12 months to see what your annual unit usage us then you know what you use. 2 people won't use as many as 2 people with 4 teenagers.


    I'm spending 9k after grant. I hope to have payback within 10 to 12 years. I can give that 9k to the ESB over 12 years, or I can buy panels and after 10 to 12 years I have my money back and any savings there after is in my pocket



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,469 ✭✭✭MAULBROOK


    That looks nearly the same as my house, currently have 20 panels and have space for 6 more.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 18,067 ✭✭✭✭fryup


    and how is it working out for you so far?? are you able to watch TV run a washing machine, tumble dryer etc on power generated by solar?



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,469 ✭✭✭MAULBROOK


    Its been very successful in keeping the bills way down. I'm not off grid but can run 100% self sufficient for many months of the year. In the poor months solar helps to take the edge off the bill.

    To fully disconnect from grid you will need to fill that roof and I'm guessing at least 15 to 20kwh of battery minimum. A generator will also be required. The costs for the extra battery and generator will be substantial.

    There are plenty of options available if you stay connected to the grid at lower costs.



  • Registered Users Posts: 332 ✭✭Liam2021


    Just wondering, getting a new copper cylinder fitted. Is there any special things I need on it so I can heat the water from the solor panals with the Eddie diverter.

    Any help would be great.



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,159 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    Try to get one with dual immersions. One half way down, and one at the bottom. Eddi supports two immersions and will switch between them. Get as big a cylinder as you can afford. Will tie you over the dull days.



  • Registered Users Posts: 332 ✭✭Liam2021




  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,159 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    Yes. Any cylinder with an immersion will suffice.



  • Registered Users Posts: 565 ✭✭✭stratowide


    What size cylinder would be suited best here..?

    On a good sunny day with little background electricity being used could it heat a 200l cylinder..?



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,520 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger



    TLDR: At the risk of sounding evasive.... it depends. :-)

    Longer explanation ->

    The reason I say that is that there are a lot of factors to consider. For example, if you only have say 10 panels on the roof (circa 3.8Kwp) then you might struggle to heat a 300 liter tank, but conversely if you had 20 panels then you'd have no problem in heating it. But this is somewhat academic.

    A better question to ask is to forget about solar for a minute and ask "What size tank do I need for the house?"

    That question is dependent on a number of factors such as, how many people in the house? Are they teenagers who tend to spend ages in the shower? How many showers a day, or do people take baths? Are all the showers at the same time or close together, or well spaced? What's other use for hot water is there. What size hotpress (or other area) do I have which will house the tank. No point in wanting a 500 liter tank if the hot press can only house 200L.

    Once you have the requirements for hot water then you can size your tank appropriately. You don't want to have a needlessly large tank as (again forgetting solar for a min) you don't want to be having to pay to heat 300L where you might only want to use 50L.

    With the tank size appropriate for your needs, solar will then put energy into the tank. Ideally you will get solar to heat it completely, but even if it doesn't - that's ok. Energy will still be put into the tank. You may only get it from (say) 20 Celsius up to 40 Celsius (where your target is 50C), but that means that your oil/gas/grid heater will only have to "top it off".

    200L to 300L would see most houses right. Average shower uses about 50-60L.



  • Registered Users Posts: 565 ✭✭✭stratowide


    Thanks for the detailed reply.

    There are 3 showers taken per day in the house so I guess a 150-200 litre cylinder is plenty.Water isn't used for anything else really.

    How many panels would I need for this..?

    Sorry if these seem silly questions.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,520 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    Honestly (and I mean this)....there really isn't such thing as a silly question. We all have to learn somewhere. The forums only "work" when people help each other. There is a pretty decent FAQ on the forum.

    Interested in Solar PV? Read this FAQ first. — boards.ie - Now Ye're Talkin'

    To answer your question directly, probably about 4-5 panels (each panel would be about 380 watts, so about 1.5-2.0 Kwp) however, that's not the right way to look at it. Ultimately your house uses energy, some of that energy is the immersion (assuming you use electricity to heat the water) and of course some energy is the fridge, TV etc. etc The main reason for getting in a solar instllation is to cut down on your overall electricity usage.

    The average home in Ireland uses about 4000-4500 units of electricity a year. Installing solar would help reduce that. How much it will reduce is dependant on the size (and cost) of the installation, but ballpark 50-60% usage covered. Summer will be 100% usually, but winter with the short darker (rainy) days, not so much.

    So a better way to look at it is, what is the right size panels for my house (which will also help heat the water as a side benefit) Looking at the bigger picture is 90% right for most people. That said, there are edge cases where hot water is the priority, and then there are alternatives (evacuated tubes) which heat water better than solar PV (electric generation)



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  • Registered Users Posts: 8,370 ✭✭✭BrianD3


    Might as well ask this here - I have a 10 x 10 metre piece of garden that is not used for anything and is not shaded for much of the day. I'm vaguely interested in solar PV and would also like a carport type structure for my cars. Could I kill two birds with one stone, planning permission? I read on Teagasc's website that a ground array no more than 2 metres high and 25 sq metres is exempt from planning (in an agricultural context which mine isn't)

    I also have a large roof on the house - I think I could fit up to 80-90 sq metres of panels facing SSW, the same on the opposite side and a small number on the hips of the roof - but insulation is the main priority for the house at this time.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,932 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    New rules passing through legislation blank out the number of roof panels and also increase the height of panels up to 4m (ground array) without the need for planning permission

    My stuff for sale on Adverts inc. EDDI, hot water cylinder, roof rails...

    Public Profile active ads for slave1 (adverts.ie)



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,932 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    My stuff for sale on Adverts inc. EDDI, hot water cylinder, roof rails...

    Public Profile active ads for slave1 (adverts.ie)



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,370 ✭✭✭BrianD3


    That is interesting. 4 metres would be high for a domestic "ground" array. 4 metres is also the max height for an exempted development shed with a pitched roof so perhaps there is some connection there.

    In any case, a ground array could be useful to people if they can store cars and other items under it.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,932 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    Very useful as a covered washing line!

    My stuff for sale on Adverts inc. EDDI, hot water cylinder, roof rails...

    Public Profile active ads for slave1 (adverts.ie)



  • Registered Users Posts: 11,226 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    Does anyone know if it's okay to run a gas boiler off backup power from batteries in the event of a power cut?

    As in give the boiler and associated electronics and pumps enough power to operate, since the gas supply should still be fine


    Logic says the boiler should be happy bit I'm wondering if there's some weird regulations to consider

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators Posts: 6,521 Mod ✭✭✭✭Irish Steve


    Directly off batteries, no as that's DC, and for the boiler and pumps to work, you'll need AC, which depending on what else is involved in this scenario, and I'm not going to presume anything, you'll need an inverter of some sort, and if you're charging batteries from Solar panels, you might also have as part of that installation an inverter that can do the job. There are some issues around the exact type of inverter, if the Solar system can also provide a "back feed" of AC into the grid (Feed in), if the grid fails, then the inverter system will (has to) shut down, to ensure that there is no risk of injuring network operatives as a result of there being live connections in your area. Some inverters have an option to provide a limited AC output if the grid is down, but it cannot feed into the domestic wiring, so that complicates the set up that would be needed to get the boiler working during a power cut.

    I'm not aware of any restrictions on using alternative power (solar, batteries via inverter or petrol.diesel generator) to run a gas boiler, and there's plenty of people using generators in the event of a power cut, and they can be using gas or oil boilers with no issues at all, as long as the power device is providing a stable voltage and frequency.

    Shore, if it was easy, everybody would be doin it.😁



  • Registered Users Posts: 11,226 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    Sorry yes I should have mentioned there'd be an inverter in between the batteries and boiler. Can't imagine the boiler would be too happy getting DC 😂

    I know only some inverters can supply backup power so I'd be taking care to ensure I pick one that does

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users Posts: 676 ✭✭✭bunderoon


    Anyone go the DIY route on slated roof? IE - Remove section of slates, attach mounts and re-slate including the slate covers.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,015 ✭✭✭Mr Q


    For the hipped roof with panels in three directions you can do that with a single inverter like a SMA Sunny Boy. But the number of panels on the small strings need to be identical.



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