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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Thanks for that. I took the rotor off with the standard cassette lock ring tool as in the video, but the new wheel came with one that also has an internal fitting but is a different size and pattern so it's different to the video. I'll try and post some pictures.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,638 ✭✭✭Qrt


    Anyone got any experience with installing a front pannier rack on a giant escape?



  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    It's the spanner for closing externally that I need. What I think are simple jobs always turn out to be more complicated than expected, especially when time is at a premium. Standard parts would really help.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus


    I feel your pain. I reckon you'd need less proprietary tools to work on a Ferrari than you do for a bloody bicycle.


    I don't have one that I can loan you, but if it's any use, the tool that will work on the 'external' ring you have is the same spanner used for bottom brackets. It is a Shimano TL-FC32 spanner, generic Amazon search results below




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  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Ah man, I only started riding bikes four years ago and can do a lot of the basics myself but it's the tools that are killing me. Started swapping out the rotors ready to put on shiny new wheels for a spin while I have some free time and it's all been eaten up by needing two different tools for the same job on slightly different wheels. So frustrating.

    I'll get that tool, but right now I'm off to my LBS as the mechanic said he'd happily do it for a 10e. I'm going to buy two new rotors and have both sets ready to go so no need for swapping around in future.

    I will buy that tool online though for future use. I'm accumulating bits and bobs but it's expensive business.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,791 ✭✭✭Rezident


    Bike got a weird puncture, seems to be right beside the valve, possibly due to a small gap between rim and valve and presumably the weather getting at it there over time. Do people block this with, tape or vaseline or something?


    Thanks.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 20,327 Mod ✭✭✭✭Weepsie


    Anyone know if I can use the QR adapters from Fulcrum 7 discs on Campagnolo Zonda discs?


    Cycleclinic says I need about 3 different kits for the Zondas, but other place just suggest I need the end caps.



  • Registered Users Posts: 218 ✭✭The Buster


    A question about bar tape! I have never changed on any of my bikes. It is now starting to "slip" up around the hoods and doesnt easily slide back so i think time to change. I was looking at videos and think i should be able to manage to change it. Some questions:

    • Whats the best type to go for - I am a recreational cyclist. Over last two years had reduced mileage but have a few 150km + sportives in sught for this year.
    • Should I remove the old tape or can I put new tape over it. Guess I should remove but just checking if any benefit to leaving the old on



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,059 ✭✭✭Roberto_gas


    Gents looking for this derailleur hanger for my merida scultura 300..assume these are easily available at all shops ? Can i fix it back on my own ? Any tips while installing it?




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  • Registered Users Posts: 21,649 ✭✭✭✭Squidgy Black


    Types of tape is all down to preference, standard would be the generic cork style tape, or else you can go for a more rubberised style that’ll give you more grip. There’s also then thicknesses, you can get thicker tapes that’ll have gel backing etc for more comfort.

    Generally you would remove the old tape, but if you wanted to you could double wrap them



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,412 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    i'd be wary about double wrapping if the old tape is starting to slip.

    the park tools video was the one i used when wrapping my bars.



  • Registered Users Posts: 940 ✭✭✭nicksnikita


    Very manageable DIY job as long as you have a set of Allen keys.

    Take care not to cross thread the frame.

    Also take care not to overtorque the mounting screws.

    They're usually only a few quid so it’s worth picking up a couple, just in case



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,242 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    Put a bit of grease on the bolts before installing them and they only need to be “finger tight”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,450 ✭✭✭jebidiah


    Have noticed a sound like a clicking/ticking coming from the rear derailleur as I pedal. I had the bike up on a stand yesterday and noticed that the teeth on the bottom pulley wheel are engaging the chain slightly before the gap in the link.

    Searching on line seems to suggest it could be chain wear, derailleur hanger alignment etc... Is this something I can fix my self or better to LBS it?



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus


    Fist thing I'd check us chain wear. Have a look at the jockey wheels while you're doing it, if the teeth are worn to a point they may need to be changed too. Check the cassette too.

    As regards whether it's easy or not, that all depends on your ability and tools available to you. In general, they would be relatively easy jobs to do if you're handy enough



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,450 ✭✭✭jebidiah


    Fairly handy, but don't have a lot of bike specific tools. I'll take a look at the chain to see if it lifts off in the largest gear, or if it's stretched by measuring with a ruler. I should be able to replace that myself, and I suppose a chain tool is something I should have anyway!

    The bike is in very good condition (bought second hand, almost new in August last year) and if I recall correctly from cleaning yesterday the jockey wheels are in good nick.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,412 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    you can pick up a chain wear tool for under a tenner in halfords IIRC, if you have one near you.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus


    You'll want a either a chain breaker or quick release pliers for the chain replacement (needle nose pliers can be made work, but there's a knack to it)

    Allan keys should suffice if the jockey wheels need replacing. You'll need a specific cassette tool for the cassette



  • Registered Users Posts: 940 ✭✭✭nicksnikita


    I’d say if you fancy doing some servicing and bits and bobs on the bike, start by picking up the basic tools mentioned above.

    CRC and other outlets have tool sets that include all the commonly used tools in one box. At a guess, it may be €50.

    Once you have the basics, you can pick up more complex tools as the need arises.

    I was lucky starting off, my sister and her fella left me a tool chest when they emigrated..



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  • Registered Users Posts: 37 BarrowBoard


    Any tips on stopping pad rub on a set of TRP HYRDs. I got a replacement set under warranty & mounted them as per instructions, but no matter what I do, I can't stop the pads rubbing. Centred them by pulling the brakes whilst loose, ensured pistons were pushed back, and the rotors are new too, so shouldn't be warped. Never had to worry about bedding in the pads before, but that's all I can think of now - just ride with the rub and hope that it stops when they wear a bit. Any other tips/hints would be greatly appreciated.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,412 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    are they rubbing on both sides? might it be possible you've a slight warp in the disc?



  • Registered Users Posts: 37 BarrowBoard


    It seems to be a constant rub on both sides - on rim brakes, I'd ease off tension on the cable, but that's a no-no for the TRPs. Rotor/Disks are new, so shouldn't be warped, pistons are fully reset, so I'm at a complete loss. Even my thoughts of wearing the pads down a bit shouldn't work in theory due to the self-adjusting qualities of the HyRds.



  • Registered Users Posts: 940 ✭✭✭nicksnikita


    I know next to nothing about disc brakes so this may be a stupid suggestion but could your discs be too thick?



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,412 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    is it like that without the cable attached? if not, i'd suspect too much cable tension; are you able to to release tension with the cable adjuster?




  • Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus


    I know it's not the same system, but with cable actuated calipers, it's possible to sometimes slightly engage the lever arm, by accident, when securing the cable.

    I'd be inclined to redo all the steps involved in running the cable again, just to be sure.

    A good rule of thumb that has helped me on many occasions is "Never trust the work that went before you, especially if it's your own"



  • Registered Users Posts: 37 BarrowBoard


    Yeah, it's tight even with cable loose. But I've always been told that for TRPs, before playing with the cable, you have to lock the actuating arm (the locking mechanism is on the right side of the unit in your photo) and that adjusting tension on the cable is only to adjust amount of play in the brake lever. Apparently if you adjust the cable tension without locking the actuating arm, it can affect the hydraulic piston.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus


    Maybe a stupid question, but have you unlocked the actuator arm afterwards? I think you have to, anyway



  • Posts: 0 ✭✭✭ Jovanni Tinkling Treasury


    Ok, this is really verging on the limit of "no such thing as a stupid question".

    I have only got into cycling in the last 2 or 3 years (I learnt to ride when I was over 50). I have a couple of fairly cheap Argos folding bikes, they do the job for holidays OK. However the wife wants a new saddle, the original one is small and quite uncomfortable. I'm looking at some average leisure saddles at the likes of Decathon, but my question is (having never changed one) - do all saddles fit all bikes ?



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  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,412 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    generally; the standard nowadays is for saddles to have two rails underneath, which are held on by a clamp on the seatpost; you can see the rails in this product shot, and if the bike currently uses this system, it's standardised, so any saddle with rails should do:

    https://www.halfords.ie/cycling/saddles-seat-posts/halfords-urban-saddle-355238.html



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