Arcade & Retro Repairs & Mods, all new recipe, with no added MSG...

Ok I had a look at it under a microscope.

Looks like it says M4 100 6v?

Would that make sense?

I really do wish that I could find a board schematic...

Anybody else here have a Tekken Tag board that they could check?

Ahh you absolute legend thank you so much!

Good news! Managed to solder the cap back onto the PCB and... Looks like I was worried about nothing! Board works fine! 🙂

Thank you for remembering - PM'd sir :)

You win some, you lose some re repairs. I bought a Game Gear on eBay a while back, usual fare, faulty, sold as seen. Received it, and sure enough, screen was very dim and no sound. Relatively straight forward repair....new cap kit, and that should be it.

I ordered a cap kit (should have thought more about this and not cheaped out), and when it arrived, it was all radial caps...crap, I remember doing this a few years ago and it's awkward to fit them in place of the old ones as they're quite a bit bigger. Did it today...

Relatively decent job on it, considering. It's a pain bending the legs to fit, and placing the caps in places they're not meant to be due to their size. Anyway, job done, took my time, few hours....put it back together, lovely crisp sound which was great....black screen however. No signs of screen life whatsoever, despite the game happily running away regardless.

Queue another hour fault finding, reflowing solder, triple checking cap values, triple checking orientation of caps, same goes for sound board and power board (all recapped today too), different batteries, using a psu....nothing. Half the day wasted, f%#k 🤬. It has to be a dodgy cap somewhere, so I'm going to just order a decent more suited cap kit, and do it all again!

Sometimes OCD has its benefits....

I said I'd prep the mainboard today by removing all the caps, braiding all the pads clean, Ipa the board, have it ready for new caps. I ended up going over everything again, and gave the board one last look over. I found I could see an unlit image on the screen, so it was a back-light problem. Found some schematics, and tested the two radial fuses each side of the screen.

One was blown, no continuity on the multimeter. I didn't bother checking these yesterday because the screen initially did work when I received it, and then didn't after recapping...so all my efforts were on checking/re-doing the caps. Anyway, I bypassed the blown fuse with a jumper wire (hardly ideal, but this is destined for a screen mod down the line anyway), and voila, a beautiful (horrendous) 90s lcd image sprung to life!

I'll still buy a new ceramic cap kit, as I don't like the pressure needed to properly close the case currently, and then screen mod/case mod it too eventually.

I’ve borrowed this from my brother in law to help with my crappy eyesight as I work on finer pitch components.

LED lighting, USB powered, magnification and it looks like a sentinel from The Matrix with all the clamps

Its pretty bright even with a 1amp power supply.

I think I’ll get something Without the clamps in the long term.

Sorry, I meant to add to the post, he got it on Amazon, I’ll ask him to send me the product link.

Super, appreciate it 👍

I bought a faulty Mega CD recently. Sold as not powering on, so I took a chance. A simple reseat of the internal ribbon connector and it sprung to life (the second such issue I've seen with one of these recently).

There was noticeable cap leakage on both the main board and power board though, so I ordered a kit for each board and got stuck in today.

Got it all done, pads all cleaned down, ipa'd the leakage spots, and gave it a good clean down at the end. I popped a disc in to check, and I now have a fully working and recapped Mega CD that reads discs.

Bonus - one of the free Megadrives I picked up recently is a non-TMSS "high definition graphics" model too, couldn't believe it when I tested it. Yus!

Appreciated Andy 👍

Does the monitor have a remote adjustment board ? A dodgy connection there or bad pot will give you the same symptoms.

Urgh , my astro is also showing some pot issues since rotating, shouldn't have touched it, ahhh arcade machines.

Sanity check here guys, an Amiga 500 cap kit I received had these two caps. The original one is rated for higher voltage, and the seller is telling me these lower rated ones are OK to use....seems odd?

The original is a 10uf 50v, and the ones in the kit are 10uf 35v