Heat Pumps - post here.

The heatpumps that are designed as drop in replacement for oil are nearly 10k by themselves. It really depends on what exactly they are planning to put in

chilling UFH coils can lead to condensation/damp in our humid summers, as when you drop the temp, the RH goes up

http://www.dpcalc.org

chilling in the MHVR is a better option but make sure you fit a condensate drain pipe and chill it down far enough

Real aircon drops the air temp right down to dump the moisture and then mix in some unconditioned air.

If you only chill it down, but not far enough to dump the moisture, the RH goes up and house becomes quite uncomfortable.

Was discussed here years ago with PHs beside lakes in summer.

Currently doing a full renovation (have not lived in the house yet), not going for the full retrofit grant but will go for the grant for heat pump.

Im waiting on a few quotes at the moment, but anyone i ring are telling me that im better off doing under floor heating upstairs and downstairs, and no rads, thats A2W works more efficiently with underfloor heating. Is this true or are they trying to sell me the more expensive option?

Any other advice while I am at this stage?

That is true

UFH is also more comfortable.

But it doesnt mean you cant use rads as long as the rads have been assessed and are adequately sized for the house.

So, its a financial decision really. If you are stripping the house and pulling up floors anyway you should probably do it but if you are strapped for cash and have adequate radiators already for a HP system, then needs must.

I'm not sure if I asked this previously but has anyone looked at the low profile stuff?

If the floors are adequately insulated would it be more straightforward to just put the low profile UFH on the concrete without having to take up floors?

We did a deep retrofit of a 1930s house and have UFH downstairs and low temperature rads upstairs. It would have been a lot of intervention to install UFH upstairs (I shudder to think of the disruption) and they're working out fine for us.

Yeah we've a similar problem, thermostat is in the north facing room while the south facing rooms can end up being overheated

TRVs are supposed to fix this to a point but I agree that having more zones would be better

Do you use the heat pump for cooling as well? If so, how's it going with the rads?

I was looking at the Daikin brochure and it looks like all their fan assisted radiators or convectors have condensation drains as well

I think they are zone stats, not room stats, so when the stat reaches the set point, the whole zone shuts down.

TRVs, stuck behind curtains etc, in my view are load of... each room requires its own wall mounted stat at the right level away from curtains doors windows wall vents.

Tried it, ended up with the kids nearly freezing to death in their bedrooms because the heating was so low

I think a lot of Irish people treat them like traditional gas or oil fired systems, “boosting” or otherwise raising the temp if there’s the slightest chill. Turning them on and off, especially with UFH.

There’s a bit of a learning curve I reckon. Also I think people forget it replaces oil and gas so the electricity bill will reflect that.

I would second what @the_amazing_raisin says.

We started a renovation on a 1930s house, then realised that we could make it more sustainable, and turned it into a deep retrofit, essentially.

In order to qualify for the heat pump grant, we engaged the services of a technical advisor. He was super, and reviewed the existing renovation plan, advising on where to increase or adjust insulation to give us a better result.

SEAI won't allow an application for the grant unless a technical advisor has reviewed the insulation plan, so that's your insurance that running costs should not be excessive. See: https://www.seai.ie/grants/home-energy-grants/heat-pump-systems/

The cost for the consultancy was really reasonable, and he basically walked us through the steps to go from a D3 to an A3 BER on the house.

DM me if you'd like details, the company are Dublin based. To be honest we only chose them because their office was 500m away! But we found their services very good. But there's a list of approved companies at the above link.

Either way, we found it great to have a 3rd party opinion, someone who could review the plans of the architect, builder, plumber, renewable energy company, and give us expert advise to improve the overall result.

Can you please PM me the details of your TA? Thanks, Paul

In my extra ordinary lack of knowledge as i have been pondering a heat pump for a while, the main difference is that refrigerant goes through the wall to the inside unit in a split and only water goes through the wall in a mono. So much harder to plumb a split and more likey to leak at some point. Also most splits are dealing with R32 which i personally am guessing the EU will ban at some point and the newest monos are using R290 propane which apparently is more efficient. Now if one of those leaks you should be ok provided your not smoking a fag beside it

Monoblocs are generally simplest to install as you don't need any specialist to fill the system with refrigerant. The advantage is that you're pumping water outside so you need antifreeze valves or glycol in you heating water (apparently this reduces performance)

I think the split systems are popular where you're using air to air systems. I guess they also offer some more flexibility regarding the outdoor unit