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Tips and Advice for the Irish Motorcycle Driving Test!

  • 14-04-2009 1:39pm
    #1
    Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Music Moderators Posts: 12,778 Mod ✭✭✭✭Zascar


    I've been meaning to do this for a while... Having now passed my test I thought I should write down all the advice that others have given me and what I learned myself while preparing for it.

    Here is my list - and I have also turned it into a blog post here - so please take a read through, let me know anything you think I should add or change, and I'll update it so that it can be a good reference for anyone who is doing their test soon - I hope it helps you out.

    Good luck!

    ---

    General Stuff:


    Lessons - Get them - no matter how good a rider you think you are, get a pre-test at least. There are lots of little things you might not think of that you can fail for easily. Definitely get a pre-test at a minimum, but do it early, weeks before your date. Practice is key - In the few days up to the test, whenever you are on your bike, ride like it was your test, do not be lazy. It’s very hard to just “Switch it on” for the test and start doing everything perfect. Sometimes you do know exactly what to do, but you can just make mistakes and forget stuff. Try talking to yourself and narrating your actions – it actually works!

    Wear all your gear, boots trousers, Yellow reflective jacket with L plates -and make sure it’s not brand new looking, dirty it up a bit. Park your bike in backwards so you can drive straight out and not have to reverse. Know the road signs, especially Clearway, Bus lane, Contra flow bus lane, pedestrian zone etc. Look the part and answer questions confidentially without rambling, and you are already off to a good start.

    He’s going to ask you all about your bike, how to check oil, brake pads, adjusting chain tension etc – know all this inside out. When he asks you to get on your bike, put your right hand on the bar and hold the brake before swinging your leg over.

    When out on the road – be confident. Don’t drive stupidly slow and carefully – he will fail you. Drive normally but just drive as near to the speed limit as possible at all times. Driving too slow is one of the main reasons for failure. Don’t hold up traffic. If in a 50kph zone, you can get away with doing a 33/34kph a few times – just don’t do it consistently.

    Don’t worry if you make a mistake – you can get away with a few and still pass- but you don’t know, he might not have even seen it! Don’t give up, give it your best at all times and relax…

    Exaggerate your observations – move your head, not just your eyes - if he can’t see you looking - you did not look – so make sure he sees you. Indicate early and manoeuvre - but not too early. Look into approaching junctions early.

    Check mirrors every 20 seconds or so. Don’t look at one mirror and then the other immediately, look straight ahead for a second or two in-between. Check your mirrors every time before you slow down, or even come off the throttle.

    Look out for stop signs - made sure to put your foot down at/before sign - regardless if there is not traffic.

    Keep elbows down especially on lifesavers - if your arms are straight when you look over your shoulder, your bike will turn slightly when you do a lifesaver – this can send a false indication to the driver behind you.

    U turn: Mirror and look behind you, but keep your hands on the handlebars, do not take your hand off to look around. Don’t drive too far forward before turning, be confident. Turn your head all the way around and look back up the road, do Not look at the opposite curb. Lean into it, drag back brake, feather throttle if needed. Don’t kit the curb whatever you do, you won’t fail if you put a foot down. He may ask you to do it again. Don’t forget to mirror, indicate, lifesaver and pull in on the other side. Practice these a lot.

    Obstruction Overtake Manoeuvre: Mirror, indicate, lifesaver, move to other side of road. Mirror, indicate in, lifesaver, move back in. Practice this, I actually fcuked mine up even though it’s something we all do all the time on the road.

    Theory Questions:


    When would you use dipped headlights?
    Dusk/ dawn, built up area, traffic coming towards you, travelling behind traffic, in fog/snow, Approaching a junction with a major road.
    On continuously lit roads outside built-up areas,

    How/Why would you skid / loose traction?
    Oil, Diesel, leaves, gravel, ice, rain, metal plates, bad tyres, improper use of Brakes or Throttle. Also because of bad tyres. Know the minimum tread depth: 1mm.

    When can you overtake on the left?
    When turning left or vehicle in front of you is turning right, or on dual carraigeway/motorway and traffic in the right lane is queuing

    When would you use a lifesaver?
    Junctions/Roundabouts/Moving off/ Changing lanes.

    Continuous white line - can you cross it?

    Generally no. Exceptions - For emergency and access.

    Sequence of lights at a pelican crossing?
    Green-amber-red-flashing amber-green

    What’s the rule for entering a yellow box junction?

    Enter as long as you can drive out of it. Exceptions - Turning right and even at that provided you wont be blocking/obstructing traffic as a result.

    Who can give traffic instructions?

    Members of the Gardai, or if there are roadworks, you have to obey the instructions given by the workers. Also a person in charge of Animals.

    How do you recognize a zebra crossing?

    Black and white striped poles on either side of the road with a flashing amber beacon, zig zag lines on the road leading up to it, and black and white markings going across the road for the crossing.


«1

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,262 ✭✭✭Fabio


    Fantastic stuff there, good man. Should be a sticky.


  • Registered Users Posts: 286 ✭✭n.catenthusiast


    Cheers for this man-very comprehensive, gonna give it a solid read through.



    just want to confirm, before you change direction don't you check both mirrors, then indicate, then check relevant mirror, lifesaver & then turn?


    Got my test comin up next week and slowly realisin the bad habits i've picked up! :eek:
    Have a pre test but its 2 days afore the test itself, and I want to get started on gettin it together.....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,310 ✭✭✭Pkiernan


    Dumb question, but what is a lifesaver?


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Music Moderators Posts: 12,778 Mod ✭✭✭✭Zascar


    It's when you check your blind spot by looking over your shoulder to see what cannot be seen in your mirrors. Called a lifesaver for the obvious reason - if you manoeuvre without doing one, a car or bike etc could very easily be just behind you at your side and even though you checked your mirrors you would still not see them = potential disaster.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,496 ✭✭✭Mr. Presentable


    Pkiernan wrote: »
    Dumb question, but what is a lifesaver?

    Quick check over your shoulder. Like blindspot check in car.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 394 ✭✭JCDenton


    When doing a lifesaver, does your head turn to a 3 (or 9) o'clock position?

    This is what I always do to check over my shoulder, but, I remember driving behind a chap once who continually turned his head right around to a 5/6 o'clock. (i.e. turning his body as well to look).

    Just how far is necessary?
    (From the point of view of an instructor in the test?)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2 shadowlover


    has anyone done the test in mullingar


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Music Moderators Posts: 12,778 Mod ✭✭✭✭Zascar


    I was asked by a fellow Monster rider to give some more tips on U-Turns - which are notoriously difficult on Monsters due to their totally pants turning circle. Here's my advice:

    I had problems at the beginning trying to do U-Turns on my bike - and my instructor and I spent ages practising it.

    First, start off with a wide road. Some smaller roads can be intimidating and put you off, Get comfortable doing the turn with some space first before you try to make it tighter.

    The most important thing to do is to Lean into the corner. You can't amke a tight circle without leaning. Also very important is the direction of your head. It seemed strange at first but you really need to turn your head ALL the way around - Do Not look down at the ground, look way way down the road, but where your head points - your bike will do. It's tempting to look at the Kerb to see how far away you are, this will just make it more difficult.

    Get the Rev's up, feather the back brake a little, turn quickly and lean, not gradually - the more you wait the bigger the turn will be.

    At the beginngin try just doing circles in a carpark, and then a figure of eight. Then go to gradually smaller and smaller roads - keep practicing.

    I do know a guy who said to the instructor that Ducati's have bad turning circles, and the instructor brought him to a bigger junction - I did not do it on my test but it might be worth a try!

    Hope that helps!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,117 ✭✭✭✭MrJoeSoap


    Just stumbled across this thread today, very useful information. Cheers Zascar. Any chance of a sticky?

    http://www.citizensinformation.ie/categories/travel-and-recreation/motoring-1/driving-tests/motorcycle_driving_tests_in_ireland

    I also found that link quite useful.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6 schtat


    Hi folks,

    Passed the test today so thought I'd share the experience as I found it hard to find answers when I went looking on the interweb myself...


    Testing Office
    Road signs (usual array of about 10 of these)
    Hand signals
    Rules of the road questions (who can use motorway, slippy surfaces,dipped headlights, how junction boxes work - i.e. don't go near it if you can't clear it

    etc.)

    Outside:
    Bike tech questions (tyres, oil change)
    Bike checks: indicators front & back

    Driving:
    Usual left/right turns, changing lanes, roundabouts, junctions etc.


    Hazard/Obstruction test:
    Instructor parks car ahead of you and asks you to drive past him as you would any hazard (i.e. mirror, signal, shoulder, position)

    Emergency Brake test:
    Instructor will ask you to drive off at 55kmh and quickly brake to 25kmh without skidding.NB: This clearly means using the front brake. Don't forget to

    check mirrors during stop (and everytime you slow/stop)


    U-Turn
    Clutch/back-brake to control your speed. Don't forget to do a lifesaver and signal before moving off.
    I had a good sized road and it was no problem but worth mastering the clutch/feathering the back-brake.


    Driving at walking speed beside Instructor
    Clutch/back-brake to control your speed (as per U-Turn)


    Walking the bike and the stand test
    With engine off, take the bike off the stand and walk it a few feet.
    Put bike back on stand.


    Displaying Motortax disc
    You need to have this on the bike (even if the cops tell you it's safer in your wallet!)


    Restricted Engines
    This isn't checked by the tester. As far as the tester is concerned, your instructor is responsible for telling you to get a kit fitted.


    Overall:
    Firstly, it's actually pretty simple. Just know what you need to know (rules & signs) then drive as you would normally.

    People make mistakes when their nerves get the better of them, I'm guilty of that so I did my best to try and relax. I knew confidence is key: No tester will pass someone who isn't sure of what they're doing on a potentially dangerous vehicle, so I did my best 'oh yeah, I'm all over this' in the testers office without hopefully making a complete berk of myself (...jury's probably still out on that one). But confidence comes through practice, experience & knowing the rules of the road.

    The other cause of failure seems to be when people start to second guess themselves (i.e. 'should I be in this lane?' etc.). I failed my car test the first time because I wasn't sure where I should be on the road, so it's down to learning the rules of the road. Once you know them, you can relax and just drive normally & confidently.

    Common sense plays a big part - my instructor told me not to try and impress the tester with your safety skills if it means you're rubbernecking every 2 seconds and holding up traffic behind you. When moving off from a traffic light or junction, only do a lifesaver if you need to. For example, if there are pedestrians/cyclists around then by all means. If you're there alone then no need. The exception to this for when you're pulled in by the tester for the u-turn, walking beside him etc. then do a shoulder check before moving off.

    The general rule for shoulder checks or lifesavers is that they should be done when changing lanes, turning left/right & exiting roundabouts.
    I remembered the sequence of events for turning/changing lanes/roundabouts like this: MISP.

    M - Mirror
    I - Indicate
    S - Shoulder Check
    P - Position (check your position on the road after you've made the manoeuvre)

    Keep plenty of distance between you and the vehicle in front and don't forget to check mirrors everytime you slow or stop.

    (I'll get killed for this) but I also used the acronym 'PMS' while driving:

    P - Position
    M - Markings
    S - Signs

    I've a memory like swiss cheese so it helped me remember what I should be doing as I progressed:
    Position should be centre of the road at all times (until turning at a junction or roundabout).
    Markings obviously refers to Road Markings (don't drive on the hatch marks, check for filter lanes etc.) and
    Signs for looking out for any speed signs in particular as they're often not very obvious little round things behind some foliage etc.


    Lastly: LOOK.
    Look into a junction as you approach it - both ways.
    Look up the road you're about to turn into.
    Look into side-roads as you pass them.
    Look ahead before you move off from any position incl. junctions, or walking beside the tester etc.
    Look ahead after a shouldercheck, don't drive off while your still facing backwards!.


    HTH
    Cheers
    Ken


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,802 ✭✭✭bluefinger


    thought i'd bump this as the test might have changed since the last post.

    Have a test coming up in November. Any tips on what to keep in mind along with those above?

    is it really necessary to mucky up your l plate tabbard as mine will be brand new :o


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,761 ✭✭✭AgileMyth


    The licencing system has changed but I don't think theres been any change to the test itself.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 525 ✭✭✭Suasdaguna1


    Lifesavers ......they'll get you if you pull away and don't do same. A very basic test but by gawd it's a synch to fail. Do you rhome work, know the rules of the road backwards, know your bike backwards.....you'll be as nervous as sh!te starting off......just do what your instructors told you.....make a mistake and we all did, put it behind you and continue on. Keep up with traffic, know your roundabout positioning, know your junction positioning etc etc......practice like hell.....be familiar with your test centre routes in general......if I never see Tallaght again I won't worry.....lastly imo unlike cage testers , bike testers are bike enthusiasts....they have to comply with the RSA format and are not there to shoot the breeze......so don't get caught up in their remoteness.......they have to tick those boxes. My examiner post my test when I eventually passed was a mine of info re tips and advice. Lastly when you get your test, it is only a piece of paper to go and get experience......not to give it Dixie down the m50.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5 duke886


    mOST guys feel nervous about the uturn,so if you can do a perfect uturn everytime you will feel a lot more confident on the day.Find a large carpark or open area in an industrial estate and practise-practise-practise.
    I had to change the bullbar handlebars on my bike to a set of straight bars as it was impossible to do any normal uturn with the bulls.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,115 ✭✭✭chrismon


    I have mine in mid November.
    I know this sounds like a ridiculous question but I just want confirmation.
    When turning left I do a left lifesaver and right a right lifesaver.
    At roundabouts do I look left/right or both?
    Can someone give me a quick run through on when to use lifesavers and what direction to look?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,502 ✭✭✭RosieJoe


    chrismon wrote: »
    I have mine in mid November.
    I know this sounds like a ridiculous question but I just want confirmation.
    When turning left I do a left lifesaver and right a right lifesaver.
    At roundabouts do I look left/right or both?
    Can someone give me a quick run through on when to use lifesavers and what direction to look?

    Ilifesaver in the direction you are moving to. Use them whenever you are pulling off from kerb. Use them changing lane position, when turning left/right. Emergency swerve, when you are overtaking the tester. Roundabouts, left when you are turning left. If you are not taking the first exit left lifesaver as you are about to take your exit.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,115 ✭✭✭chrismon


    Thanks very much!
    Very informative.


  • Registered Users Posts: 108 ✭✭gotBass


    Put a contrasting color sticker postit size or less at the back off your lid that way all the head turning work can be seen easier less need for over exaggeration as a result. Worked for me. Good luck to all.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,216 ✭✭✭Ayrtonf7


    Planning on doing mine just before christmas. Very nice info thanks to all who posted!


  • Registered Users Posts: 8 beanns


    great posts here lads,doing my test soon and learned a lot here. safe driving..


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  • Registered Users Posts: 12 1986kennyd


    Alright lads, just passed my test this morning, big thanks to everyone who posted all the info here, was a huge help :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 2 paulflano


    Hi all,
    Sorry for reviving an old thread. Just wanted to say my thanks to the above posts and give my own account of a test in tallaght today. This thread comes up high on a Google search so figured might be a good place to add.

    Did my ibt and pretest with Tony Agnew (Irish motorcycle training, would highly recommend) a week before the test. I'd recommend doing a pretest at least 10 days before as you can cancel with no cost before this time if yourself or bike isn't ready. My bike had an all in one tail light cluster and mini reg which I was recommended to change. I actually seen a guy failing the test due to his indicators flashing too fast during the motorbike checks. (Caused by having led lights with no resistor in parallel with the lights BTW).

    The tester was very sound, I made a mistake early on one of the questions and he asked me again.

    Questions were around much of what's above. Single white line in middle of road. What can cause a bike to slip. When to use dipped lights. Hand signals. Then he picked a few roadsigns. Buy the rules of the road for the signs and cover the answers with your hand when testing yourself. The book is a boring read otherwise though so try find as many questions like above as you can get.

    Went out to bike and had usual tests. Get the manual for your bike from manuals lib online. Usual stuff, oil , brake fluid, tyres. Moved the bike (remember to look all around!!) Then got on the road.

    The route has recently change to include 60 and 80 km zone. Keep an eye out for the signs... I was unsure on one or two speed zones as I didn't know the route too well but just keep up with the cars in front and drop the pace when in the residential zone.

    Practice your U-turn. Find a road and do it till it's built in. A little bit of countersteer before you make the turn, feather the clutch and soft of the back brake to keep it tight. And look where you want to go.

    Finally, I dropped my guard slightly when all the tests were done (overtake, hillstart and u turn) and picked up a mark for missing a lifesaver at the end. Try keep focused till the end, it's only a short test through all.

    Passed in the end (felt it could go two ways at the end knowing I missed a lifesaver and a bad observation).

    Apologies for the long post, hope someone finds it helpful and again thanks to the lads above.

    Paul


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Music Moderators Posts: 12,778 Mod ✭✭✭✭Zascar


    Great stuff, well done - glad it was useful!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,925 ✭✭✭pudzey101


    Well done . Great thread by the way . Have mine coming up in 2 months , only downfall is I'll be using a bike I'm not familiar with for the test ( my zx6r doesn't meet test requirements)
    As red above a pre test or 2 should be of great use .

    Safe biking all . And remember the pink lisence is still a learning process . Just because you have it doesn't make you king of the road .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,192 ✭✭✭TeaBagMania


    Lots of good info here. Note to self, don t use the Harley for taking the test. Harley has a really high first gear and makes slow maneuvers difficult, not to mention its 360 KG


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,595 ✭✭✭hairyslug


    I did my test in Wicklow, it was a few years ago so I'm sure it has changed but there, there were 2 options, clockwise or anticlockwise around the town. Got stuck behind a car getting a pretest so I just followed them.

    As for advice, I'm sure it's been said and I know how difficult it can be but try and relax, the worst that can happen is that you do it again, and show a bit of confidence about your bike and your riding style


  • Registered Users Posts: 5 Orla8


    hi! I'm new to this and find the above info really useful. I've my test on Friday and am nervous about the technical test at the start. Can anyone shed some light on exactly what they ask and how you answer this? For e.g. how do you answer a question about the chain or brake pads?

    any help would be great, thanks
    Orla


  • Posts: 4,186 ✭✭✭ Leah Some Tongs


    Orla8 wrote: »
    hi! I'm new to this and find the above info really useful. I've my test on Friday and am nervous about the technical test at the start. Can anyone shed some light on exactly what they ask and how you answer this? For e.g. how do you answer a question about the chain or brake pads?

    any help would be great, thanks
    Orla
    It's very simple, they ask you where you would check your brake fluid levels. You say you would have the bike level and check the fluid reservoir up on the handlebars and then at the rear of the bike under seat.

    They will also where you check the engine oil, same answer , I'd have the bike up straight and level and then point to the engine oil window.

    They will ask you what tyre thread depth you should have left on the tyres. They may say anything else yoh would look out for and you say I'd check all the lights are working and look for any signs of damage to the bike

    If you are doing a pre test they will run though it all with you.I ended up doing the test a load of times and that's all I was ever asked


  • Registered Users Posts: 5 Orla8


    thank you so much - that's really helpful. I was panicking there thinking I need to demonstrate how to check the chain, brake pads etc. thanks again. Orla


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,381 ✭✭✭✭Paulw


    I was asked how to check your oil and how to check/adjust the slack on the chain.

    All depends on the tester what they ask.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,013 ✭✭✭✭Wonda-Boy


    Orla8 wrote: »
    thank you so much - that's really helpful. I was panicking there thinking I need to demonstrate how to check the chain, brake pads etc. thanks again. Orla

    Remember the word - P.O.W.D.E.R


    P=Petrol (Where you put it and how you know you are empty (How gauge works, or the reserve if no gauge, I actually got asked this in my test)

    O=OIL (How to check it and where it goes in)

    W=WATER (If you have a water cooled engine know how and where to top up coolant, I got asked this also)

    D=DAMAGE (Checking for damage)

    E=ELECTRICS (Making sure lights are working and how to turn hazards on if needed etc)

    R=RUBBER (minimum thread depth and good overall condition

    Also if your bike has a centre stand be able to put it on and take it off the stand confidently. By able to walk with the bike confidently (Rest the bike on hip ALWAYS when walking)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,936 ✭✭✭stewygriffin


    Making progress means you do the speed limit on the road in question.
    So if its a 60KPH road,you go up to that speed and maintain it,if traffic allows.
    If its 80kph then you do that speed.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5 Orla8


    Thank you, very helpful


  • Registered Users Posts: 5 Orla8


    how did you answer to the question about checking or adjusting the slack in your chain?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,381 ✭✭✭✭Paulw


    Orla8 wrote: »
    how did you answer to the question about checking or adjusting the slack in your chain?

    On the swing arm on my bike it says the slack parameters - 35-45mm. The bike manual also has a section about the slack and how to properly adjust. Just read your manual.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5 Orla8


    thanks Paul.


  • Posts: 4,186 ✭✭✭ Leah Some Tongs


    Wonda-Boy wrote: »
    Remember the word - P.O.W.D.E.R


    P=Petrol (Where you put it and how you know you are empty (How gauge works, or the reserve if no gauge, I actually got asked this in my test)

    O=OIL (How to check it and where it goes in)

    W=WATER (If you have a water cooled engine know how and where to top up coolant, I got asked this also)

    D=DAMAGE (Checking for damage)

    E=ELECTRICS (Making sure lights are working and how to turn hazards on if needed etc)

    R=RUBBER (minimum thread depth and good overall condition

    Also if your bike has a centre stand be able to put it on and take it off the stand confidently. By able to walk with the bike confidently (Rest the bike on hip ALWAYS when walking)

    Did you do your IBT with Mick haha?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,013 ✭✭✭✭Wonda-Boy


    Its actually on many websites Goose.......http://www.saferrider.org/the-garage/p-o-w-d-e-r-checks/


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,899 ✭✭✭frozenfrozen


    same with

    MILF

    Mirror

    Indicate

    Lifesaver

    ****ing manoeuvre!!!!!!!


  • Registered Users Posts: 2 Coming up for air


    Great thread!

    I have my test this week.

    For the technical checks, what does checking the steering and brakes entail?

    Thanks


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  • Registered Users Posts: 9 Boilermaker1


    Hi

    I know this post is a few years old but the information is this correct.

    Just passed my test today thanks to this post



  • Posts: 14,344 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I'm also aware this thread is old, but it comes up high in Google searches, and it helped me out. So I figured I'd post my experience from a week ago, about what was involved:


    I passed mine, on my first attempt, last week. So it's fresh enough in my head.


    Arrive at the centre a little earlier than your time. Reverse your bike into the parking space, as far back as you can (but leave enough room to walk around behind it).


    Have your learner permit, your logbook (if your logbook doesn't show the bikes power output, or if it just says 55555, then you may need a certificate of power output). Bring your insurance details and bring your IBT certificate. Make sure to bring a pair of standard, 3.5mm jack headphones (with no microphone, just a normal pair of headphones).


    When you arrive and park the bike, make sure you've a helmet and hi-vis vest with the L front and back. That's all that's legally required, but you'll set a good impression if you also have pants, jacket and boots that are bike gear/safety gear (I had a leather jacket and jeans, with obvious kneepads/shoulder pads etc.).


    Examiner will bring you into the office and sit you down. He'll ask for the above documents and confirm your name/address. He'll ask a couple of questions, for example:


    Q: What would make a road surface slippery?

    A: Wet weather, fallen leaves, oil or fuel spills, etc


    Q: What affect would wet weather have on your stopping distance?

    A: It would double it.


    Q: When would you see two red lights flashing together? (this one caught me out)

    A: A railway crossing (or fire station, apparently).


    Then he'll have a few pages of road signs on the desk, and he'll randomly point at them. You tell him what the sign he points at means.


    At this point, you whip out your headphones and he gives you a walkie talkie with a strap that goes over your shoulder. You connect the earphones to it and he tests that you can hear him okay. Then you move out to the bike in the car park.


    He walks around the bike and makes sure your legal (tax disc displayed, tyres aren't obviously bald, number plate is legal). He'll ask you where different things are on the bike (horn, killswitch, etc.) and will get you to demonstrate that all lights are working. He will ask you some practical stuff now, like:


    Q: What's the legal minimum tread depth on a bike tyre?

    A: 1mm (1.6mm on a car)


    Q: How would you check the oil/brake fluid/coolant?

    A: Varies from bike to bike, answer specifically about your bike


    Q: What checks might you carry out regularly or before a long journey?

    A: P.O.W.D.E.R Checks (this is what i rambled on about, and he was happy enough).


    You'll then be asked to push your bike forward. They can ask for about 5 meters, but if you've parked your bike back in the space, like i advised above, they may only get you to do 2-3 foot to keep you within the parking space. Move the bike forward by using both hands on the handlebars, and leaning the bike on your hip for extra stability. Before you move the bike, look around you, make sure it's safe to move it and there are no hazards.


    Then he'll go to his car, you'll get onto your bike. When getting onto the bike, reach your right hand over and engage the front brake before you try to get onto the bike. Remember: it's not a driving test, it's a safety test. Safety, safety, safety.


    You'll then ramble around on the roads for half an hour doing nothing in particular. If you cross a solid white line at a stop sign, it's game over. So be careful of road markings.


    Every 20 seconds check your mirrors. One at at time. Look at left mirror, look straight ahead, then look at right mirror. Don't do it like you're watching a tennis match.


    Every turn you take: Mirror, Indicate, Lifesaver, Manoeuvre.

    (don't forget to cancel your indicators)


    Every lane change: Mirror, Indicate, Lifesaver, Manoeuvre.

    (don't forget to cancel your indicators)


    Approaching your Roundabout exit: Mirror, Indicate, Lifesaver, Manoeuvre.

    (don't forget to cancel your indicators)


    Also, incase i haven't mentioned it: don't forget to cancel your indicators!



    Follow all speed signs accurately. You'll get away with speeding up and down a couple of km/h, but not large amounts. Practice holding a steady speed.


    Mirrors and Lifesaver when entering a higher speed zone. Mirrors when entering a lower speed zone. Mirrors and reduction in speed for speed ramps.


    When sitting gormlessly in bumper-to-bumper traffic, don't tune out because you're not doing anything. Still be checking your mirrors. Never put two feet down at the same time unless it's a fraction of a second (to make sure you're in the right gear, etc). Should always be just your left foot down.


    You have to do Four different tasks in the test.


    U-Turn

    Arguably the most difficult. You'll likely be taken to a road that's approximately 7 meters wide (a standard 2-lane roadway). You'll be asked to stop on the left where it is safe to do so (ie; don't stop in a bus bay, on double yellows, in hatched markings, etc). Then do the U-Turn


    In order: You're currently parked on the left, so: Right Mirror, Right Indicator, Shoulder Check (don't take your hands off the handlebars), move off, Lifesaver, U-Turn. Now pull in and park on the left (left mirror, indicator, lifesaver, and stop).



    Obstacle Avoidance

    Examiner will tell you to pull in on the left and stop. He'll drive down the road in front of you and park. You'll then move off towards his car, getting up to the speed limit. You'll Mirror, Indicate, Lifesaver and Manoeuvre around his car. You treat this like any other car on the road, it's not a sudden swerve or emergency move.


    'Slow Walk'

    This goes by a few names, but this is the one I've seen it go by a few times. Tester will walk at a fast pace on the footpath beside you, and you'll match his speed. You'll do this by feathering the cluth or gentle braking (or both).

    You won't be panic-wobbling your hands left and right to keep your balance. To avoid this, you'll look straight ahead and focus on a point in the distance (a road sign, a car, etc.).


    Reduction in Speed

    For this one, you'll be brought to a road with an 80kph limit. You'll be instructed to get to a speed of at least 65kph, and then will be instructed to hit the brakes, and reduce your speed to 20kph (but not stop, and don't lock/skid your wheels). You'll do this by using both brakes at the same time.


    You'll then be told to move off, and you'll swiftly move down through the gears and ride off (again, without stopping).

    This is not an emergency braking exercise. You get a couple of seconds to reduce your speed.



    You'll get back to the test centre and the tester will tell you to park in an available space. You'll drive forward into the space to make life easier. Tester will tell you he'll see you inside the centre. You'll go in, give back the radio/walkie talkie (with a €100 note and a wink*) and he'll tell you whether you've passed or failed.


    (*meant as a joke, obviously)

    Post edited by [Deleted User] on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,800 ✭✭✭✭galwaytt


    excellent post, bookmarked for my young lad who's waiting on his test atmo.

    One thing bugs me is the VLC and the Kw stating as 5555 - that's just pure laziness on the part of VRO/VRT/Whomever. The amount of hassle I had to get my book corrected is just nuts. (see a post on it here: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118595491/#Comment_118595491 )

    Now, my young lad's bike (a CB500F) actually has 35Kw stamped on the frame, so I assume that suffices ? - that and the fact that model is on the RSA list as being a 35Kw bike anyway, and doesn't exist as anything else.

    Ode To The Motorist

    “And my existence, while grotesque and incomprehensible to you, generates funds to the exchequer. You don't want to acknowledge that as truth because, deep down in places you don't talk about at the Green Party, you want me on that road, you need me on that road. We use words like freedom, enjoyment, sport and community. We use these words as the backbone of a life spent instilling those values in our families and loved ones. You use them as a punch line. I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and sleeps under the tax revenue and the very freedom to spend it that I provide, and then questions the manner in which I provide it. I would rather you just said "thank you" and went on your way. Otherwise I suggest you pick up a bus pass and get the ********* ********* off the road” 



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,553 ✭✭✭✭Varik


    Sent off cert recently it didn't take too long to get back. Spoke to them and they gave me the below address.

    Just a letter from a Honda dealer with cert and it's freepost, I did add the word free post to where the stamp should be and made sure there was a return address as the sorting machine can mess up apparently without them.


    Freepost,

    National VRT Service,

    Amendment office,

    Revenue Commissioners,

    Anne Street,

    Wexford,

    Y35 E29K.



  • Registered Users Posts: 601 ✭✭✭garlad


    Passed mine last year. Pre-test was a huge help. Did one a week before and another the day before.

    The first was a big help to learn the route. I could then drive the route for the week at my leisure. Also pointing out tricky sections, most common u-turn location etc.

    The day before was a real confidence boost.

    I actually found the obstacle avoidance the trickiest. He didn't park too far ahead of me so I had to get up to speed quicker than I normally would have when learning, and at the same time mirrors, indicate, lifesaver, manoeuvre past his car. A lot to remember in your first few months on the road.

    The first few times I practised it I would just keep speeding up and fly past over the limit. I would have taken this bit of the test for granted if it wasn't for the pre-test.



  • Posts: 14,344 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Is there any reason why you bothered? I assume that, outside of the RSA Practical Test, you never need it? (or if you do, you have the letter from Honda, anyway?).


    I'd be tempted to get my logbook rectified but I'm not sure it's worth the hassle. Do you just send them a cover letter explaining what you want to change, along with the logbook and the letter from the dealer?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,800 ✭✭✭✭galwaytt



    Some people have had their tests cancelled over it, so tbh, I'd get it corrected, if only for the next owner.

    Ode To The Motorist

    “And my existence, while grotesque and incomprehensible to you, generates funds to the exchequer. You don't want to acknowledge that as truth because, deep down in places you don't talk about at the Green Party, you want me on that road, you need me on that road. We use words like freedom, enjoyment, sport and community. We use these words as the backbone of a life spent instilling those values in our families and loved ones. You use them as a punch line. I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and sleeps under the tax revenue and the very freedom to spend it that I provide, and then questions the manner in which I provide it. I would rather you just said "thank you" and went on your way. Otherwise I suggest you pick up a bus pass and get the ********* ********* off the road” 



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,800 ✭✭✭✭galwaytt


    out of curiousity, what dealer did this, and was it f.o.c. ?

    M50 Honda wanted €175 for a CoC from me.

    Ode To The Motorist

    “And my existence, while grotesque and incomprehensible to you, generates funds to the exchequer. You don't want to acknowledge that as truth because, deep down in places you don't talk about at the Green Party, you want me on that road, you need me on that road. We use words like freedom, enjoyment, sport and community. We use these words as the backbone of a life spent instilling those values in our families and loved ones. You use them as a punch line. I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and sleeps under the tax revenue and the very freedom to spend it that I provide, and then questions the manner in which I provide it. I would rather you just said "thank you" and went on your way. Otherwise I suggest you pick up a bus pass and get the ********* ********* off the road” 



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,553 ✭✭✭✭Varik



    Wasn't a CoC for me, just company headed letter saying we're a honda dealer and the bike has Vin blah and reg blah and power and weight blah.

    No real cover letter, the dealers letter was straight to the point and just the details, and I assume they put 2+2 together.

    It's still not 100% but power is right at least, and while I don't need it it's better to have it right. My brother said he might start so partially did it for that and if I sold it I'd not want someone getting stuck for test as bike would suit someone starting.

    It was free but I was collecting something I ordered off them so money was changing hands anyway.

    Got the letter before I called the VRT office.

    The lad in the VRT office was very agreeable on the phone and I could hear the eye roll when he read off the bike details after I gave the reg and he mentioned the laziness from whoever did it.

    When I was talking to him he said to send logbook in and only then did I mention the letter so I'm not sure they're that picky and might have taken a letter from me with the correct details. If it's obviously a wrong power and you're not telling them it's power restricted or something but it's the power that's listed anywhere they'd be able to check I think they might just accept a letter from you.

    Worst that happens they send logbook back unchanged.



  • Posts: 14,344 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I got mine off Ronan Pentony Motorbikes (rpm) in Drogheda. He charged a tenner. Maybe give him a shout?



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