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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,514 ✭✭✭hesker


    It works fine for some but can be a problem apparently on short chainstay bikes.

    If it were me I’d try fitting a 32t on rear first.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 533 ✭✭✭Mr. Cats


    Thanks - am going to try the 32 on rear first and see how that goes. If there’s issues will do the cage conversion.



  • Registered Users Posts: 837 ✭✭✭mazdamiatamx5


    Bit of an odd one this. I have a large Kryptonite M18 lock with an 18mm shackle diameter, weighs 2.7kg - in spite of it being a Kryptonite product, the standard holders sold by Kryptonite don't fit it. There is an after-market product made by a US firm but they don't seem to ship to Europe. I want a holder that fastens it to frame as if I leave it resting on frame it scratches it. Short term solution, use cable ties wrapped around the lock and the shackle for a standard Kryptonite but even the strongest cable ties I could find in Woodies keep breaking due to weight of the lock over bumps etc. Can any of you guys with a more practical mindset than I think of a better solution?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,061 ✭✭✭✭loyatemu


    do you have a rack/carrier on the bike - could lay it flat.



  • Registered Users Posts: 837 ✭✭✭mazdamiatamx5


    ^ I don't, I use a backpack if I am carrying stuff.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,914 ✭✭✭Nigzcurran


    Have you tried the Velcro type cable ties? They are very strong



  • Registered Users Posts: 837 ✭✭✭mazdamiatamx5


    Good idea, I will check Woodies tomorrow. Do you know do they have them usually?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,914 ✭✭✭Nigzcurran


    No sorry I’m not sure where I’ve seen them lately, I reckon they’ll have them though



  • Registered Users Posts: 650 ✭✭✭Pompous


    Tube straps are pretty strong and have a rubber coating to prevent slippage. You can strap things pretty tight with them and they're quite handy to apply/remove.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,274 ✭✭✭DaveyDave


    Time to replace the chain on my ebike. I usually do the big cog big chainring method but the Park Tool website suggests adding an extra link/2 rivets for 1x drivetrains but that's for 42t+ cassettes, I'm using 25t.

    I suppose 1 extra link won't make much difference if I don't need it with 25t, just wondering why as you still go big/big for sizing 1x.



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  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,899 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    not sure if i understand the question; you obviously want the chain to be long enough to cope with the gear which makes the greatest 'use' of the chain?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,712 ✭✭✭✭Squidgy Black


    Think he means why would you need to add an additional link on top of the measured length if you use the biggest gears.

    It’s probably to prevent stretching, usually with a 2x setup you’d get cross-chaining and you’d generally not do big ring up front, big ring rear, but with a 1x you need to account for that



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,689 ✭✭✭Tombo2001


    hopefully this falls within being not too stupid.

    Does it matter if you dont wash/ clean a road bike (ever).



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,841 ✭✭✭Large bottle small glass


    The only real benefit from a safety point of view is spotting cracking in frame/fork/rims before it fails catastrophically.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,055 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    The worse that will happen, it won't be as efficient (significantly so) and when you have to change something it will be a pain in the hoop but plenty of bikes never even get lubed in Dublin and survive just fine.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,274 ✭✭✭DaveyDave


    Yeah just wondering why an extra link is needed when using the same big cog big chainring measurement. Sure it's only one link, even if it wasn't needed it probably wouldn't make a huge difference!



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,899 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    if you were cycling in cold weather after the roads had been gritted, i suspect it might mean your bike might be more of a sponge for salt and rust faster.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,274 ✭✭✭DaveyDave


    Couldn't get the chain off at all, so down to the bike shop in the end! Need a better chain breaker as mine is tiny so no leverage. I think it was a KMC ebike specific chain, not sure what the difference is aside from not being able to take it off!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,243 ✭✭✭JMcL


    I was replacing a derailleur hanger today, and when trying to put the wheel back in, the entire cassette, freehub body and all, started to slide off the axle. It's a DT Swiss PR 1600 Spline wheel, which according to the spec sheet uses the "Rachet System 18" freehub system, which I assume think is this one https://www.dtswiss.com/en/wheels/wheels-technology/ratchet-technology That page says that the freehub is tool free maintenance, and it looks like it's supposed to slide on and off, but should it do so with the cassette in place? It's a newish bike, but I've had the wheel off a fair few times all the same and never noticed it before.I tried taking the cassette off to investigate a bit further, but couldn't for the life of me budge the lockring. It's torqued really tightly and as i've only got a fairly sh1t3 adjustable spanner to hand, I decided I liked my knuckles as they are.

    So is this something that's normal with DT Swiss freehubs or should I get me to the LBS tomorrow? With the wheel back in, it's pedaling fine on the stand, and gear changing is fine



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,055 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    As far as I know it can come off quite easily even with the cassette in place. Just be careful when its not on the bike. .



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,243 ✭✭✭JMcL


    I chanced a short spin on it this morning as I figured that it wasn't going anywhere when bolted into the dropouts anyway, or whatever they're now called in the through axel world, and all was fine. I'll have to be careful so when transporting the bike with the wheels off, there are a least a pair of springs either side of the rachets that could easily go awry if it did drop off



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,183 ✭✭✭Roberto_gas


    Folks i am not able to get front derailleur move to half click to do bit of cross chaining on climbs ! anything i can do for a quick fix using barrell adjuster or anything else ? Thanks in advance



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,055 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    I hate to give you the obvious answer as you haven't mentioned groupset, but maybe just don't crosschain. There should be overlap of gear after the midpoint. I say this knowing I crosschain all the time but some groupsets and chains don't mind as much.

    When you mention the half click I presume you are on the old Shimano groupsets, I think the newer ones don't really need it. Anyway, for many small small leaves too much slack and big big can be a stretch, so just don't do it unless you have no choice.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,183 ✭✭✭Roberto_gas


    I am on 105 rim…Thanks…i prefer staying in higher gear in front on small climbs not to lose momentum! Or maybe i just need to move to lower ring and use higher gears on back !



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,243 ✭✭✭JMcL


    I had something like this a few years ago. I think your cable i probably too tight, so you can try the barrel adjuster. If it's (barrel adjuster) fully closed in already, you'll have to loosen the cable a bit using the pinch blot



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,055 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Adjusting the cable should sort it if its the older 105, the newer one (possibly all 11 speed Shimano) shouldn't need it at all if set up right. In regards momentum, I used to change front and back at the same time and it would feel like you only dropped one gear most of the time, peoples mileage may differ.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 681 ✭✭✭wheelo01


    Quick two stupid questions, now that Covid has struck and I now have some time to myself.

    I have bought a new chain, and am going to fit it and some new brake discs.

    1. Do I degrease the chain before fitting it, or do I use what's on it as its first lube?

    The split pin is a bit new to me, in that it has what I would see as the normal flat on both sides , but is has an extra pointy bit.

    2. How do I break this to it's necessary size? Just bend and snap with a vice grip after fitting, or cut with a hacksaw prior to fitting? Or something completely different?


    Photo of split pin below.

    Thanks in advance.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,035 ✭✭✭cletus


    Once the pin is in, the guide piece should just snap off with a pair of pliers


    *Edit for spelling*



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 681 ✭✭✭wheelo01


    Cheers, any knowledge on question 1?

    Clean chain first, or not?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,035 ✭✭✭cletus


    Knowledge? No. I can tell you that I don't degrease a new chain before putting it on, but you'll find any number on websites arguing for both sides.



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