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Chain Saw Chat

1246714

Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,311 ✭✭✭BreadnBuddha


    kay 9 wrote: »
    Well wear, that's as near to new as I've seen.

    A closer look shows lots of chips on the engine case, the top cover is from a different saw, the oil filler cap is broken, the thread's stripped on the front cover bolt hole and the chain brake handle base has a crack. The heated handle switch is cracked, chain guides and top and bottom chain catchers are damaged and the stink of burnt two stroke gave instance headache.

    Elbow grease and a drop of gun oil on a rag to wipe the plastics will work wonders. A helicoil and a few bits and bobs from ebay will see the little things right. OE bhainbrake handle already ordered from the local dealer and the other things can be done here and there. Cylinder is the original one and cold it's showing 155psi so I'm happy out with the machine. It oils where it should and doesn't leak where it shouldn't.

    There's a 162SE for less than 100 quid for sale now. Needs a full chainbrake. Maybe I should turn this yoke off and watch some telly before I get picture no sound for the next fortnight.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 560 ✭✭✭Flood


    Im buying a saw and cant make up my mind to get a stihl 362 or 441. If i get the 362 will I ever be saying why didn't I get the 441 as I would have more power or will it be after getting the 441 I will be saying why didn't I get the 362 as a lighter less powerful saw would have done.
    I plan on putting a 18-20 inch bar on either saw. Realistically I will probably be knocking trees bigger than that but I will be able to use cutting techniques to achieve it. I wont be buying into the ax-men image of a big bar.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,124 ✭✭✭jonon9


    Flood wrote: »
    Im buying a saw and cant make up my mind to get a stihl 362 or 441. If i get the 362 will I ever be saying why didn't I get the 441 as I would have more power or will it be after getting the 441 I will be saying why didn't I get the 362 as a lighter less powerful saw would have done.
    I plan on putting a 18-20 inch bar on either saw. Realistically I will probably be knocking trees bigger than that but I will be able to use cutting techniques to achieve it. I wont be buying into the ax-men image of a big bar.

    Iv been running a 362 for over half a year now and so far it's been great, I'm running an 18' on it. Realisticly I'd say a 20 would be max without losing power if you want to go 20'+I' id go 441. I'm only saying that is iv never ran anything bigger than 20' on the 362 yet.

    What size trees would you be cutting really?


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 560 ✭✭✭Flood


    jonon9 wrote: »

    What size trees would you be cutting really?

    Most of them are up to 20 inches, and sure a 20 inch bar will only give me an 18 inch cut after. A few of them are over 2 feet but ill keep the bar at 20. Do you use a smaller saw also or is it your main one?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,124 ✭✭✭jonon9


    Flood wrote: »
    Most of them are up to 20 inches, and sure a 20 inch bar will only give me an 18 inch cut after. A few of them are over 2 feet but ill keep the bar at 20. Do you use a smaller saw also or is it your main one?

    Yes iv a smaller saw for lighter stuff. If you can get the 441 for good money having the extra power will be handy you you ever decided to do any milling.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,311 ✭✭✭BreadnBuddha


    I spent 8 hours today cutting in a stand of silver birch with the 543 and 560 husky saws. The 543XP has really come to life and I will keep it and recommend it as a great replacement for the venerable 242XP.

    The 560XP/G is something else altogether. I have a 16" Carlton Premium Mini sprocket nose bar and Oregon BPX on it and that saw is a marvel for the job. The Internet is full of secondhand waffle and hearsay with all kinds of nonsense but I can tell you first hand it's a saw you shouldn't overlook.

    I ran it hard from day one on Aspen Full Range. Like the manual and dealer said to do, I buried it straight into an 18" birch trunk I left in the yard last spring and kept doing that for a few minutes. It started to stall a couple of times at the start and after about 3 minutes I couldn't make it do that again. Then off to the woods for the day and it never missed a beat.

    Forget brands and everything else. Try one, or a 550. Superb machines.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 174 ✭✭sthilmick


    blue5000 wrote: »
    A tip for a new file is to rub it in a lump of brass before you sharpen anything with it. This helps the teeth to last longer, also a flat file can be cleaned with a piece of hardwood, beech is good.

    I have a bit of teakwood it good for round and flat files


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 174 ✭✭sthilmick


    sthilmick wrote: »
    I have a bit of teakwood it good for round and flat files

    Must try the brass tip too


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 560 ✭✭✭Flood




  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,079 ✭✭✭Reindeer


    I use a Norwegian/scandinavian sawhorse I constructed not long ago for high out put on smaller limbs and rounds smaller than 14" or so:

    http://m8.i.pbase.com/g9/22/22/2/158973628.d7edNOfV.jpg

    http://m3.i.pbase.com/g9/22/22/2/158973933.X7BNqonk.jpg

    And this is what the shed is starting to look like as I also add split wood to the mess(various hardwoods near left, then neatly stacked ash and beech, ash and beech rounds, and then split oak:

    http://m0.i.pbase.com/g9/22/22/2/160042790.agUMnYqY.jpg

    And I have a pile like this still to process:

    http://m9.i.pbase.com/g9/22/22/2/158340399.GSihbSgE.jpg


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 174 ✭✭sthilmick


    Hi you should check out my sawhorse on youtube type in
    yella log holder
    its a homemade job works a treat


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 174 ✭✭sthilmick


    dose wrangler star on youtube have his bar in upside down ?
    your supposed to turn your bar reguarly and dress it too (file the burr on the bar caused by the friction of the chain on the bar )


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13 martink281


    Hi all.
    My 044 packed up, so I took it apart to find the problem. The small bearing on the top of the crankshaft broke and sent shards of metal up along the piston. In short i need a new piston new crankshaft and all the other bits and pieces to put it back together. My local stihl dealer wanted the best part of the price of a new saw for the parts alone so stihl parts are not an option. Any ideas for quality aftermarket parts. Do you know of a small engine repair shop that will swap out the crankshaft for a reasonable price? One repair shop wanted €110 just to do that much.
    Any ideas or advice appreciated.
    Thanks.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,079 ✭✭✭Reindeer


    You may be better off risking a parts saw to scavenge.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,648 ✭✭✭gyppo


    Anyone have a scrap Partner F55 (also badged as Farmer ) saw they want a few quid for.
    Looking for the clutch cover for one of these...

    Thanks in Advance


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,311 ✭✭✭BreadnBuddha


    gyppo wrote: »
    Anyone have a scrap Partner F55 (also badged as Farmer ) saw they want a few quid for.
    Looking for the clutch cover for one of these...

    Thanks in Advance

    Send this guy a message and see if he will send it to Ireland via USPS for you:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Partner-f55-f65-clutch-cover-/221621357242

    Most will if you ask nicely.


  • Users Awaiting Email Confirmation Posts: 260 ✭✭Jimlh86


    I have a stihl MS291 bought from new, well minded. Today while cutting I noticed the chain wanted to move even when the brake was on. I released the brake and the chain started to turn on it's own without me pressing the trottle.

    I knocked it off and tried to start it up again to show the father the problem and it won't start and the pull cord is really hard pulled.

    Any suggestions?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,268 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    Running too lean? Now semi seized?
    Can you take out the plug and try and get a look into the cylinder for scratches/scores?


  • Users Awaiting Email Confirmation Posts: 260 ✭✭Jimlh86


    Nekarsulm wrote: »
    Running too lean? Now semi seized?
    Can you take out the plug and try and get a look into the cylinder for scratches/scores?

    Yeah I'm not sure if it's running too lean, but I'd say you're spot on about it being semi seized! Trying to look into the cylinder is beyond my know how I'm afraid! Did I make a balls of it trying to start it?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,268 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    Jimlh86 wrote: »
    Did I make a balls of it trying to start it?

    No, whatever was done, was done.
    Best bring it to a repair place and see what they diagnose.
    A new piston and barrel wouldn't be the end of the world.
    Carb. overhaul kit while you're at it.


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  • Users Awaiting Email Confirmation Posts: 260 ✭✭Jimlh86


    Nekarsulm wrote: »
    No, whatever was done, was done.
    Best bring it to a repair place and see what they diagnose.
    A new piston and barrel wouldn't be the end of the world.
    Carb. overhaul not while you're at it.

    Fair play nek thanks for the reply!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,748 ✭✭✭ganmo


    any opinions on this chainsaw
    http://www.ie.screwfix.com/titan-ttl632chn-40cm-1-9hp-35cc-petrol-chainsaw.html
    seriously cheaper than the rest


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 40 Cowabunga


    ganmo wrote: »
    any opinions on this chainsaw
    http://www.ie.screwfix.com/titan-ttl632chn-40cm-1-9hp-35cc-petrol-chainsaw.html
    seriously cheaper than the rest

    Maybe for tipping around a few bits out the back or something. But heavy use and I can imagine it'll give. Often the engine will still be going with the cheap ones it's often silly stuff like plastic screws that thread arse ways, throttle levers popping and all the usual to expect with a cheap saw. Not really a bargain if you end up buying it a few times. My opinion.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 40 Cowabunga


    ganmo wrote: »
    any opinions on this chainsaw
    http://www.ie.screwfix.com/titan-ttl632chn-40cm-1-9hp-35cc-petrol-chainsaw.html
    seriously cheaper than the rest

    Maybe for tipping around a few bits out the back or something. But heavy use and I can imagine it'll give. Often the engine will still be going with the cheap ones it's often silly stuff like plastic screws that thread arse ways, throttle levers popping and all the usual to expect with a cheap saw. Not really a bargain if you end up buying it a few times. My opinion.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,268 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    Came across a Husky 65 dumped in a guys shed/scrap pile. It turns over and has some compression. Been there a few years, as briers have grown and died through the handle.
    Anyone here have one of these?
    Am very tempted to see will he part with it. I suppose it was the fore runner of the 61?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 233 ✭✭txpjl


    Hello,

    Anyone know what the button on the right of the rear of this saw does?

    Thanks
    T


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 281 ✭✭invicta


    txpjl wrote: »
    Hello,

    Anyone know what the button on the right of the rear of this saw does?

    Thanks
    T

    A lot of older saws,(from my youth) had a manual chain oiler, which was pumped from this button directly on to the chain.
    More than likely,that's what it is!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 47 tancoman


    Husky 435. The husky 435 has become harder to start. It actually backfires on occasions. It hasn't much done, nothing very heavy and bought at the ploughing in 2014.Any ideas from the experts.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,311 ✭✭✭BreadnBuddha


    tancoman wrote: »
    Husky 435. The husky 435 has become harder to start. It actually backfires on occasions. It hasn't much done, nothing very heavy and bought at the ploughing in 2014.Any ideas from the experts.

    Air leak is the prime suspect. That'll cause hard starting and backfiring.

    Don't try using it until you figure out where the problem is or you'll be multiplying the cost to fix it by many times.

    Hard to know not being able to get hands on, but start by checking the intake boot (PART # 504201201) as the most likely culprits. For 20 quid it's money well spent to replace the boot anyway I think.

    Ask your dealer and they'll set you right.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 47 tancoman


    Thanks, will bring it to a husky dealer tomorrow.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,457 ✭✭✭ford2600


    Went mad and bought a 560xp with 15" bar and an 18" for occasional heavier stuff.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,249 ✭✭✭GY A1


    ford2600 wrote: »
    Went mad and bought a 560xp with 15" bar and an 18" for occasional heavier stuff.

    Nice
    What sort money


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,311 ✭✭✭BreadnBuddha


    ford2600 wrote: »
    Went mad and bought a 560xp with 15" bar and an 18" for occasional heavier stuff.

    A bloody brilliant saw. Enjoy!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,457 ✭✭✭ford2600


    GY A1 wrote: »
    Nice
    What sort money

    €840 for the saw with 15" bar.

    Amrentals in Newry might do cheaper with Sterling dipping, but I'd rather have dealer support.

    Better price than most places I checked. Seems to have been teething issues with saw when launched but sorted now as far as I can see.

    Feels lighter than I expected. Have 22yr old wood and my 14 yr old 350 was starting to struggle when buried in the heaviest trees.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,249 ✭✭✭GY A1


    ALDI AXE
    https://www.aldi.ie/premium-axe/p/093477044007300
    anyone gooten this aldi axe last time round,
    whats it like,
    its 2kg
    compared to lidl had one couple weeks ago but was only 1.5 kg
    that was very light


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,371 ✭✭✭MickeyShtyles


    GY A1 wrote: »
    ALDI AXE
    https://www.aldi.ie/premium-axe/p/093477044007300
    anyone gooten this aldi axe last time round,
    whats it like,
    its 2kg
    compared to lidl had one couple weeks ago but was only 1.5 kg
    that was very light

    If ya chop a tidy amount of stuff, getta fiskars!
    She's tasty enough money, but well worth it!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,268 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    Bought this saw a few weeks ago, the owner was no longer to pull start it.
    I'm not surprised, compression is so good, its very hard on the fingers drop starting it.
    Needed a new bar and chain, as he seems to have been cutting barbed wire, and the bar tip roller bearings have also disintegrated .
    Great saw to cut, as good as any Stihl 044, anyway.
    30 years since we last bought a Husky, great to have another one.

    twWv5RA.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,311 ✭✭✭BreadnBuddha


    Nice saw! I have it's little sister, a 1989 242XPG. That sparkly gold sticker dates them easily.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,704 ✭✭✭✭drunkmonkey


    I'm after a handy size chansaw for home, Think I've decided on a Stihl ms181 CBE, it's my first chainsaw so just want to make sure I'm buying the right one for my needs.
    I won't be cutting anything huge, maybe 5/6 inch thick at most. I'll also be using it on a ladder cutting into the hedge. So I'm thinking the stihl with the 12 or 14 inch blade, should I stick with the 12 inch blade or go bigger to give me longer reach into hedge or is that dangerous? (Nearly bought a 20 yesterday being clueless)

    Also seems to be massive price differences they seem to be about €400 here and about £240 in U.K., it's at least €100 difference. Would an Irish dealer price match or come close?

    Safety gear, is the small saw a lot safer, do I need anything on my arms, chest or legs if I'm going to be on a ladder or is the little saw easily managable. I won't be cutting down, it'll be more cutting sideways if that makes any odds.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,457 ✭✭✭ford2600


    I'm after a handy size chansaw for home, Think I've decided on a Stihl ms181 CBE, it's my first chainsaw so just want to make sure I'm buying the right one for my needs.
    I won't be cutting anything huge, maybe 5/6 inch thick at most. I'll also be using it on a ladder cutting into the hedge. So I'm thinking the stihl with the 12 or 14 inch blade, should I stick with the 12 inch blade or go bigger to give me longer reach into hedge or is that dangerous? (Nearly bought a 20 yesterday being clueless)

    Also seems to be massive price differences they seem to be about €400 here and about £240 in U.K., it's at least €100 difference. Would an Irish dealer price match or come close?

    Safety gear, is the small saw a lot safer, do I need anything on my arms, chest or legs if I'm going to be on a ladder or is the little saw easily managable. I won't be cutting down, it'll be more cutting sideways if that makes any odds.

    First time untrained saw user on a ladder sounds like A&E visit being in your near future.

    I've operated saw for 25 years and I'm very very reluctant to use unless both feet are planted on firm ground.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,380 ✭✭✭O.A.P


    Don't go using a chainsaw on a ladder anyway that's a sure way to hurt yourself . Build a scaffold and work off it, or a trailer if you can get one close enough to the hedge.
    A small cheap saw is every bit as dangerous as an expensive pro saw it may have a less aggressive chain (anti kickback) but its capable of lobbing off an arm leg or fingers.
    Get a small bar for now and spend the money on safety gear .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 573 ✭✭✭timfromtang


    I'm after a handy size chansaw for home, Think I've decided on a Stihl ms181 CBE, it's my first chainsaw so just want to make sure I'm buying the right one for my needs.
    I won't be cutting anything huge, maybe 5/6 inch thick at most. I'll also be using it on a ladder cutting into the hedge. So I'm thinking the stihl with the 12 or 14 inch blade, should I stick with the 12 inch blade or go bigger to give me longer reach into hedge or is that dangerous? (Nearly bought a 20 yesterday being clueless)

    Also seems to be massive price differences they seem to be about €400 here and about £240 in U.K., it's at least €100 difference. Would an Irish dealer price match or come close?

    Safety gear, is the small saw a lot safer, do I need anything on my arms, chest or legs if I'm going to be on a ladder or is the little saw easily managable. I won't be cutting down, it'll be more cutting sideways if that makes any odds.


    Hi drunkmonkey,

    Well I do not need to add to the previous posters safety advice, get some training if i were you, it is of course possible to use a saw safely horizontally at height, but you do need to know how. Personal protective equipment is essential i'd say, at the least a pair of chainsaw trousers, and gloves, and ear protection and a face shield or safety glasses at a minimum, if you plan on felling any trees in the future a helmet is essential for this (getting a bang on the head from a dislodged branch as the tree goes over quickly gets old don't ask me how i know!)

    The small saw is just as dangerous as a big pro model, that chain cuts through flesh beautifully savagely. Do not be intimidated though, safety is about mindfulness and understanding and knowledge, acquire the knowledge, and practice the mindfulness, do no hurry. PPE (personal protective equipment) does not make you safer, although it may help to prevent more serious injury when things go wrong, you've only got one neck (a common injury from kickback when working above waist height) and you would definately miss a leg should you hit one, so PPE is ESSENTIAL in my humble opinion.

    As for bar length, you will find that a shorter bar will perform better on any chainsaw for cutting, it is less drag on the motor, and chains are cheaper and quicker to sharpen. Again on sharpening I'd get some training and learn to do it yourself, a blunt saw is dangerous, and taking your saw somewhere to get it sharpened is inconvenient and quickly gets expensive. Sharpening a chain is not difficult, just a matter of pushing the file in a straight line, (I'd recommend using a file guide for this), and a sharp saw saves petrol and is a pleasure to use. I generally inspect the chain every fill of petrol, and touch it up with a stroke or two of the file if necessary, only takes a minute or two, and keeping a chain razor sharp prolongs its life.

    I would certainly recommend paying the higher price from a local dealer, you will get back any difference quickly in good service from the dealer, and when you need parts or repair he will naturally be much more helpful to customers who buy saws from him. If we all buy the cheapest online, very quickly we will have no local dealers to go to when we need our saws repaired in a hurry.

    The stihl 181 is a good little saw a sensible choice for the use you describe, do remember though if the saw is only going to get occasional use, to drain petrol and oil before storage, and clean the air filter regularly. The manual that comes with these saws is very good and is WELL WORTH STUDYING CAREFULLY, there is lots of advice on how to use the saw safely for a number of different tasks.

    I would NOT recommend a beginner work off of a ladder (some pro's use a light ladder in forestry for pruning but it is generally frowned upon and there are better ways), a simple platform that is STABLE would be a much safer option for your hedge, you'd want to be working the saw at waist level or lower, so bear that in mind when erecting your platform. 4 45 gallon drums and some scaffolding planks would do, but a hire shop could perhaps cheaply hire you something much better.

    best of luck with your new saw

    tim

    Fuisneóg Abú


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,704 ✭✭✭✭drunkmonkey


    Thanks for all the advice. Went about buying the saw today but went into one dealer and he said I might be better off getting a pole saw attachment for my hedge cutters, when the second dealer quoted me €100 less for the attachment I decided to go with it, it's not working out much cheaper than buying the saw but I think saftey wise it might be the best option for what I'm doing.
    Thanks aging for taking the time, some good advice there. Bit upset I don't have a real mans saw yet but at least I might still have my 2 arms come the end of the summer.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,061 ✭✭✭gutteruu


    Looking for a file to sharpen the father in laws chainsaw. Its a husqvarna with about a 24 inch bar. Anyone know what size file I need or can you recommend a good file kit? I'm not fully sure of chain size , i.e 3/16' 5/32 etc but hoping they are standard. Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 573 ✭✭✭timfromtang


    gutteruu wrote: »
    Looking for a file to sharpen the father in laws chainsaw. Its a husqvarna with about a 24 inch bar. Anyone know what size file I need or can you recommend a good file kit? I'm not fully sure of chain size , i.e 3/16' 5/32 etc but hoping they are standard. Thanks

    Hi Gutteruu,
    You'd probably use a 5.2mm file on that chain, a file guide is a good plan as it takes considerable skill and experience to sharpen with file only, however with a guide pushing the file in a straight line at the correct angle is all thats required.

    tim


  • Posts: 3,637 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    gutteruu wrote: »
    Looking for a file to sharpen the father in laws chainsaw. Its a husqvarna with about a 24 inch bar. Anyone know what size file I need or can you recommend a good file kit? I'm not fully sure of chain size , i.e 3/16' 5/32 etc but hoping they are standard. Thanks

    You need to know what the chain pitch is. 24" guide bars are readily available for both .325 or 3/8" chain in Husqvarna mount. Don't waste your money or a good useable chain by buying or putting the wrong file to work on it.

    This information should be useful if you want to look it up from the chain that's fitted now:

    http://www.chainsawchains.eu/CHAIN-IDENTIFICATION__p-648.aspx

    Once you know the Oregon chain type, it's easy to cross reference the correct file size. It may well be an Oregon chain anyway, which makes it easier.

    The thing that could trip you up is if it has a Stihl chain fitted, in which case you'll have to use the Stihl information, or go old school and measure the chain to determine size.

    Failing all of that, and my own recommendation, is to pull the chain brake and if need be spin the clutch off (easy), so you can read the side of the chain drive sprocket. It will say clearly if it's .325 or 3/8 drive.

    While you're in there, see if the wear marks are still clear on the sprocket and if they're not, replace the sprocket while you're doing the job.

    Sounds complicated but it's all pretty easy once you have a look.

    You can always bring the saw to the local supplier and ask them to get you set up to sharpen it. If you don't have any gear at the moment then I would absolutely recommend getting a 2-in-1 combination file/guide. Like thePferd CsX on this page (great price, nothing to do with me!):

    http://irishforestryproducts.ie/chainsaw-files-and-filing.html


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,061 ✭✭✭gutteruu


    Thanks for input. I used to sharpen it myself last year but I wanted something with a guide thats easy enough for him to handle. I'll take a look at the chain/saw tomorrow and suss out the size. Its a husqvarna dealer he buys them from but I'll double check. The Pferd Chain Sharp® CS-X looks like it would suit him perfect.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,704 ✭✭✭✭drunkmonkey


    Any advice for red watery eyes think it was caused cutting the big trees in the hedge Tuesday evening with a pole chainsaw sometimes at eye height, was wearing a full face helmet but not any glasses underneath. Fine for flying bits but fine dust must have got in.
    Didn't notice anything at the time but woke up Wednesday and eyes were red and blurry. Got drops from the chemist then but eyes are still as bad now and sticking together.

    I'm not sure it was the sawing but only thing I can think of, had done loads more cutting over the last few weeks with no effect.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,380 ✭✭✭O.A.P


    Fumes off the saw Id say,
    Its happened me before cutting where there was little or no ventilation. I just gave it a few days and they cleared up.
    It might well be dust though so the best thing to do is go to the doc and find out .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,704 ✭✭✭✭drunkmonkey


    Yea the engine was pretty close to my head most of the time the saw was a good bit away, it might be it.


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