Welger RP235 problem

Silage should never be touched with a haybob, as I always say to lads, it’s called a haybob, not a silage bob. The haybob didn’t cause all of your problems there but it would certainly contribute to them.

How did you tighten the net roll? Did you lock up the brake bar and then adjust the brass nut on the brake disc? If so how did you determine when it was tight enough?

The hollow in the centre of the bale is nothing to do with the baler, that’s the row in front of the baler that’s the problem. The rake must be set slightly too wide or is not spinning fast enough and is leaving more grass at both sides of the row than it is in the centre, there’s nothing you can do with the baler to solve that, that comes down to your rake settings

The haybob was certainly a major factor in the clogging. What type of grass were you baling and how many bales per acre? The haybob will make lumps out of the grass and when these lumps try to get through the knives they cause the clogging. If you think it’s clogging even with no lumps then your slip clutch may need tightening too. It’s not unusual to be down to 35 bales an hour after a haybob where you could comfortably be making 60 an hour if the haybob was left in the corner of the yard buried in nettles where it belongs!

The density of the welger is determined by the hooks on the back door these have sensors on them to measure the pressure on the door and therefore tell the computer when the bale is full. These may need calibration and that would solve your density issues then.

What do you mean when you say stall? As in the tractor die away or the baler get jammed?

I'd guess OP means the middle of the bale isn't packed as seen from the side of the bale. Ie where you would drive in spikes to lift it.

The problem with the haybob is usually the chap driving is tipping about trying to save diesel and not actually running it properly.

I read it the same as yourself, middle of the bale as opposed to centre density. You're bang on the mark about a badly set up or operated rake for that problem. You can't do anything other than rerake / wuffle the rows or just bale M-shaped bales .

The slip clutch definitely sounds under pressure as well moreso than encountering lumps from the haybob.

Do you have a manual for the Baler?

Might be an idea to get it serviced and set up by a dealer if you're not familiar with it yourself. At least it'd be right then and work correctly when you need it.

You shouldn't clog one of them. They're an animal to take in stuff, ahead of McHale and John Deere.

The sensors on the back door most likely need to be calibrated to set them correctly. There should be a good crack from the latches releasing as you open the door to leave out the bale.

Your local Massey Ferguson dealer would be handling Lely/Welger parts and servicing now. They were a very popular Baler back in the day so there are plenty dealers who sold them when new. If you can say what part of the country you are in, someone on here might be able to point you in the direction of a dealer familiar with them.

Best if you did, its a dealer job. If 8 is so soft, chances are 10 isn't good enough either. Can't run the net on auto if it needs to go beyond 10. Calibrated right 9 would be bringing 130hp to its knees. It will lead to more consistent bales too.

haybob a disaster. baled after once only once with a 235 xtracut 17 which was new at the time and made hopeless bales.

drive from side to side and keep going till auto net wrap kicks in

What hp tractor have you pulling it? Set it to manual and ignore all the beeping for the bale being full and keep driving. A 120 or 130 hp should be well under pressure before you start tying. When the bale is tied and you pull the spool for the door there should be a crack out of the door when it opens due to the pressure the bale was putting on the hooks and the baler should bounce when the bale comes out. You should feel that bounce without even looking back. That’s when you know you’re making a good bale. The last welger I had with the e link box like yours would have done that at anywhere above 6 or 7 on the density settings.

Gauge it by the sound the door makes when you open it. Need to hear a solid clunk. Combined with watching the rpms and listening to the engine note, you’ll be flying making consistent solid bales. I find myself clutching just as the beeper is about to start anyways so it does work. I’m sure most baler operators will say the same.