Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Solar PV Hints, Tips & Troubleshooting

Options
1103104106108109151

Comments

  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,165 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    How many strings (pairs of DC cables, on left hand side of inverter) do you have?


    LmtByEpm is separate issue.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,135 ✭✭✭championc


    I very much doubt it. I'd reseat the connections on the inverter, then work towards the panels.

    You'd expect the string itself to be fine, so it can only be the cable to the first or the cable from the last



  • Registered Users Posts: 485 ✭✭septicsac


    Was in similar situation last week, contract up with energia, they offered me 35% discount or smart plan, but rates were not very appealing and once on a smart plan you are stuck on smart plans, you cannot go back to flat tariff or so they state?

    I told the guy I would leave it and price round and they offered me there max discount of 41% , which I had already priced as best value for me, so took it. I might fair better on a smart rate, but hard to tell, so decided for now to stick with the flat tariff.

    PS. they still have no FIT rate either, another month before announced.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,892 ✭✭✭Nolars


    How do I change the wifi connection for the solarman app? Recently got new internet.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,108 ✭✭✭mustang68


    EDIT: On to my installer, we did a restart and it seems to be behaving itself again. It would be a very hard one to spot unless you were digging through graphs.


    Hello,

    Solis inverter and 2.5 pylontech US3000c: The battery discharge never exceeds 385w, which means I'm importing when I shouldn't be (I understand if the charge goes down it should supply less), so is there some setting that I'm missing or is this normal?



    I see in the app that the Battery Discharge Current Limit is 37A, which should be giving me 1.776Kw, but it's stuck at 0.385kw... can I increase that and to what?

    Post edited by mustang68 on


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 1,452 ✭✭✭DC999


    Hey, could I get a steer on this please? It’s installers challenge to sort right now as haven’t paid fully yet. Do I have (at least) the dreaded issue that a string can’t start when it’s a low voltage with low number of panels? Looking to get a steer to challenge options they suggest to fix.

    Background: PV is live 2 weeks and looks like the South roof (and West but more on that later) isn't outputting what I’d expect relative to our East and others Boardsie’s here. And I’m trying to find why. South only 4% better than E (average kwh per panel since install). So what’s below might help that or not. Am looking to make sure we eek out the most to reduce our payback years.

    Q1 on South under performing: So if the voltage is 0 on a string, I assume it means it can't produce? Am seeing that on the S one. I’ve no idea if they are in parallel or series. Installer did setup, not a DIY job. 3 x 305w panels on South on it’s own string (all roof can fit and they planned to fit more until realised on install day). Then 4 on West into own string. It's a huawei inverter. No optimisers on S or W roof in case that matters. Have 2nd inverter with a single string of 9 on East and that output is flying – so no changes needed there. We don’t have any other space to add more panels – everywhere is full (roof, and no garden space / shed…).

    To my very noob eye it looks like the South string (green line in pic) tries to ‘wake’ at 6am, and hits ~100v and can’t sustain that and drops to zero. Then goes back to sleep. Hours later (8am) it somehow kicks in and stays ‘alive’ and starts to produce. But then drops to 0 voltage earlier than West too. I won’t pretend to know any of this bar what I’ve read. And the West (blue line) looks fine all day voltage wise.

    Stats wise I use fusionsolar.huawei.com (only access to PV system I have) and am somewhat limited in what I can see. But I can run reports for kwh per string by dates to can see overall output in places – just not easily in 1 report.

    What’s below is from yesterday, but it’s the same every day (S starts up and ends earlier voltage wise). Yesterday was a blue sky day for most part. Same graph on the worst day where couldn’t see the sun. So weather doesn’t seem to change it. 

    Q2:West is poor output too. So will ask them to look when they are changing anything on S (didn't flag that to them yet, only spotted it's bigger than I though today when checking stats). West only has 4 panels and that’s the lowest output on average I have per panel (across S, E and W). I did read that inverters (Huawei at least) like more panels per string as more efficient. So is having 3 S panels on one string and 4 on W also dragging down output? W is 23.5% lower than E (granted E has optimsers on half which give a performance boost it seems – don’t have much data for that as yet, but seems to be the case). But that huge % difference between E + W. Others see anything like that? And any ideas how to improve that?

    Thanks for any help finding the areas to change fully or tune.




  • Registered Users Posts: 6,135 ✭✭✭championc


    Ok, so you have data - perfect.

    Now look at the specs. You need to look at the startup / min DC voltage per mppt. Generally this would be 150v. Then look at the VOC of the panels installed. Under load, the voltage will drop. I would say with 3, they should have just used 3 micro inverters and then used a single inverter with dual strings for East and West. Of course, they likely expected 4 South which would have bumped up the voltage. Could the west have taken more ? It may be simpler to ditch the south and just go with E and W



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,452 ✭✭✭DC999


    Thanks for that. Appreciate the steer. Could you help me make sense of the numbers please?

    Panel says VOC is 40.8v. Panel also says says Vmp 32.5V.

    And seems to vary from 89V to 103V on the string when its running during the day. Which is around 3 times the 32.5 number above. Does VOC or Vmp have to hit the startup / min DC voltage per mppt? Won't pretend to know.

    Startup / min DC voltage per mppt on inverter looks like 100V. Screenshot below. Not sure I'm reading the right number. It's the only reference to 'startup voltage' in the doc. Or only word 'startup' relating to voltage.

    https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://support.huawei.com/view/PdfRead/EDOC1100136173/SUPE_DOC/6001/document.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwidlJS8k7j5AhXUSsAKHWnABg0QFnoECBIQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2KOCgKzdbR-xkSBKz-9k2w

    Mine is 3KTL model.

    So what all that means is.... basically it can't easily get to 100V so takes much longer to get going. That right?

    How come later in the morning it does hit the min startup voltage so it can fire up? Then it runs for the day. But also goes 'to bed' early too. Does heat or something else make voltage rise so it gets enough to start?

    Can't fit any more on roof unfortunately so no options to move stuff around.

    Ta for help




  • Registered Users Posts: 6,135 ✭✭✭championc


    While it's called the startup voltage, it's essentially the minimum running voltage, so you're snookered unless you add optimizers and join the West and South



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,452 ✭✭✭DC999


    Thanks for that. Am gonna see what they suggest now I have some options. As you say could be optimisers and join the West and South. Need optimisers on every panel?

    Or microinverters for South as you say.

    Not gonna ditch the 1kwp on South. Makes a difference on a small maxed out roof. And panels are there already. Would kill me to take them down again :)

    Anyways....they can mull over the options.



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 1,102 ✭✭✭manonboard


    Hey folks. I'm having issue connecting my 4 panels


    Panel 1 is the only panel giving a high open circuit voltage near spec. (64.1v). though still quite below.

    The rest are far below. Attached are panel pics n voltage on meter.

    Panel 1 is 58.4v oc.

    Panel 2 is 53.8v oc.

    Panel 3 is 55.4v oc

    Panel 4 is 53.6v oc.


    Panel 1 is the only panel consistently outputting power or appropriate power.

    When panel 1 outputs 100 Watts. I can see panel 2 outputs about 30w.

    Panel 3 outputs 0 to 8w.

    Panel 4 outputs 0w.

    Only panel 1 generates correct power. These are all tested by volt meter open circuit, by individually attached to victron mppt, and in parallel. All demonstrate the same problematic ratios except panel 1




  • Registered Users Posts: 6,135 ✭✭✭championc


    Post a pic of all 4 from distance. Are you paralleling them or in a string ?



  • Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators Posts: 5,039 Mod ✭✭✭✭spacetweek


    How can I tell from the cabling and socket arrangement in my Solis how many strings I have?

    Do SolarVoltage1 and Solar Voltage2 in the info display refer to the two strings?



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,165 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    Post of picture of the cables going into the inverter is probably the easiest. SolarVoltage1 and SolarVoltage2 refer to the two strings, but will be shown regardless of how many strings you actually have.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,135 ✭✭✭championc


    On the left underside of the inverter, are there two or four thin wires ?



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,063 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    How are you measuring the output of each panel?

    What happens when you connect them individually?



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,102 ✭✭✭manonboard


    For current, I'm measuring using the victron smart app connecting to my victron mppt 100/20.

    For voltage, (which also shows up in the victron app), im connecting a multimeter directly to the mc4 components on the solar panels.

    When i connect them individually to the mppt. It shows ratios approx like:

    panel 1: 105 watts

    panel 2: 30 watts

    panel 3: 0-8 watts

    panel 4: 0-8 watts



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,102 ✭✭✭manonboard


    parallel is the goal but i currently only have 2 mounted, the other 2 are just unmounted until i figure out the problem.

    2 are on my van conversion, 2 are just moved about for testing.




  • Moderators Posts: 12,374 ✭✭✭✭Black_Knight


    Got quoted €400 to make my impending solar system work off grid, manually.

    Worth it, given the possiblity of blackouts? We're city based and our only power cuts of the last 5 years have been planned maintenance, so this is pretty much exclusively for blackout situations. Seems like for 400 it's worth it for that security.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,821 ✭✭✭stimpson


    I’m fairly sure I asked about this during my install and I was told €1500. Maybe he just didn’t want to do it. I think I would have gone for it for €400



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 6,135 ✭✭✭championc


    So are you saying that with nothing else connected, these are the readings from each panel, one by one, with the other 3 disconnected ? Or is this a reading per panel when all 4 are connected ?

    If the latter, check them individually with nothing else connected.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,102 ✭✭✭manonboard


    Correct, all other panels are fully disconnected, and each panel is checked without anything else connected to it (no other panels)



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,135 ✭✭✭championc


    Well there you are then, get the other 3 replaced. They are clearly malfunctioning. Every panel, in an individual basis, should be identical



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,311 ✭✭✭✭DrPhilG


    Any myenergi experts here? My system has had a meltdown this afternoon.


    https://www.facebook.com/groups/happizappi/permalink/470277217898463/



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,991 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    Not all of us on FB DrP

    My stuff for sale on Adverts inc. EDDI, hot water cylinder, roof rails...

    Public Profile active ads for slave1 (adverts.ie)



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,311 ✭✭✭✭DrPhilG


    Dammit @slave1, so inconsiderate...


    Basically my Zappi is losing its marbles

    Sun is blazing down, generating about 5kW. House battery is full.


    One minute the generation icon hits zero, next thing its accurate, one minute it's showing house consumption of 11kW, next thing nothing.

    The picture showing a 3.9kW feed to the house is wrong, the house load was less than 1kW.


    Earlier the Eddi stuck at a 3.1kW feed even though the car was available for export.

    I've now exported more than 1kWh because its not correctly directing it to the car.


    If I leave it on eco+ it keeps cutting in and out. If I leave it on eco, it exports half and charges half.


    I've updated all firmwares and reset the Zappi.


    No clue what's going on.


    If I plug it in fresh, the display still says awaiting surplus even though its showing as exporting 3kW. Then it recognises it and the 30 second countdown starts, but at 9s or so left it starts counting up again.


    I've exported a few units because the system is cracking up.





  • Registered Users Posts: 6,135 ✭✭✭championc


    Is you Zappi is a spot hit by sunshine ? Sounds like it derated itself due to it thinking it was overheating



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,165 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    How are your generation and grid CTs wired? Are they to the Eddi/Zappi or to a Harvi?

    I have a Harvi for my generation and it has occasionally dropped off the face of the earth (despite there being generation to power it). Not a a major deal as it only impacts the graphs. Sometimes it joins the network again, and sometimes it needs to be paired again.

    My grid CT is hardwired to the Zappi and is rock solid, thankfully. The grid CT is the main one and is required to allow the Eddi/Zappi determine if there is surplus.



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,311 ✭✭✭✭DrPhilG


    It's in the garage with no direct sunlight. No noticeable heat at the unit, it was cool to the touch.


    Plus if I boosted without any limits at the car, it was delivering 7.2kW without any derating.



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 12,311 ✭✭✭✭DrPhilG


    I don't know how and where my CTs are set. I think the Zappi is hardwired with a cat5 direct from the house. There's a Harvi in the meter box at the back door.



Advertisement