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Domestic Solar PV Quotes 2022 - No PM requests - See Mod note post #1

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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,136 ✭✭✭championc


    As mentioned by build_dodger, I believe that heat pumps are more designed around heating water to a level more of 40 deg, so you should be looking at an Eddi onto an immersion rod for water heating instead.

    A control panel may allow 70 or whatever to be set, but this says nothing about the efficency



  • Registered Users Posts: 2 damdow


    Hi all,

    I am looking at getting a Solar PV system along with a EV Charger, and I would be grateful if someone could suggest a Cork area installer that they have had a good experience with.

    Thanks



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,415 ✭✭✭con747


    Check out this thread https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058234656/renewable-energies-forum-key-threads#latest look at the installers page and the spreadsheet on there as well. Not allowed look for PM's or name companies on this thread.

    Don't expect anything from life, just be grateful to be alive.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2 damdow




  • Registered Users Posts: 6,415 ✭✭✭con747


    There is or was a spreadsheet with members system cost and installers details and the area they covered but I can't find it so maybe someone else can post it if they know where it is.

    Don't expect anything from life, just be grateful to be alive.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,469 ✭✭✭MAULBROOK


    Just make sure its a Puredrive you get and don't get fobbed off.



  • Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭redmagic68


    All possible but with water heating on night rate even during the summer months when our usage is much smaller it’s more likely space heater is my issue.

    Heat pumps of course use an internal immersion to bring the temp up to the 70 but when run at night are pretty efficient.

    for now I’ll wait and see with the Eddie it’s a possible add on afterward.

    mad for the earlier pay back figure I’d be confident of getting over €800 annually and as unit cost is likely to increase that too should reduce payback. I suppose it’s realty down to good management of usage.

    8.4 kwp east/west Louth,6kw sofar, 9.6kwh batt



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,732 ✭✭✭poker--addict


    Out of interest has anyone ditched their electricity service provider (and the ever increasing standing charges)?

    What would such a system look like to be capable of comfortably being off the grid? Maybe it is illogical in Ireland?

    😎



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,136 ✭✭✭championc


    You need a genni and a ton load of batteries, all to save €365 per year (@ €1 per day Standing Charge)

    Completely illogical IMO



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    If its already in, Its not worth it. But green field.. Standard connection (12kva) is 2933, Enhanced (16kva) is 3972, Well that changes things...

    If our outfarm for example, didnt already have electric, (now comes under a standard domestic connection) I'd be going off grid with it. For some lights and a well pump.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 75 ✭✭Punchin A Keyboard


    Only makes sense in a out in da sticks build where you might have to pay for poles and lines to be put in



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,528 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    Why 70C though?

    Even if it's cheap'ish, unless you have a need for 70C water, why spend energy heating that water up to that temp? All your doing is denting your wallet and using energy which, to be fair, most at night time does come from renewables from the grid....but it seems a bit pointless. No? And if it wasn't from renewable then you'd be increasing your CO2 footprint.

    Most people take showers at 40-45C water temperature, so you could target 55C and you'd still have to mix cold water at the shower rose, or it'd be too hot? Probably save yourself a few quid too over the year and not even notice the difference in temp.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,469 ✭✭✭MAULBROOK


    It would be outrageously expensive to even try



  • Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭redmagic68


    The water is heated to 70 at the night rate. It comes out of the two shower etc at lower temp as you said giving you more usable volume of heated water. The heat pump coil is toward the top third of the tank. So you end up with enough hot water heated at the night rate to last the full day further supplemented by the solar tubes weather permitting is the logic of the high temp heat pumps as I understand it. If we heated to 60 at the top we’re likely to need to boost it in the afternoon on the much more expensive day time units. Those are Daikins recommended settings. I’m sure the tech has improved in the last number or years split systems etc but that’s the reason for 70

    8.4 kwp east/west Louth,6kw sofar, 9.6kwh batt



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,528 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    The math doesn't work out. Let me explain.

    So, when you heat to 70C, you have to get there from 55C (or so) via the immersion part of the system. The element which does that work is a 1:1 (roughly) from energy in -> temperature of the water. Ok, so you are doing that at night rate, but your missing out on the main advanatage of a heat pump, that being that they have 3 to 1 "COP" where you effectively get 3x times (or more) energy into the water than the energy you put into the system. The main thing is to take advantage of that heat pump efficiency.

    Now if that actually did require a boost of a little while in the afternoon, while you might be paying 2x the night rate electricity in day rate, your getting a COP of 3-to-1 using the heat pump as a heat pump. So you would only use 1/3 of the electricity. And that is assuming you had a completely empty tank of cold water. In reality there would still be some hot water left, or at least it wouldn't be 100% cold. So using the heat pump as a heat pump , even in the day, would still be cheaper than heating to 70C at night. You also have to suffer the heat loss of having the water there, losing temp until it's needed, so your paying for that too.

    I'd also doubt that Dailkin would have a 70C as a recommended settings, effectively forcing their users to use the immersion element and not the "heat pump" side of the the heating. It wouldn't make sense, but I'm sure others will chime in who own heat pumps.

    Ultimately it's up to you, but I'd lower it. Try it out, see if you save a few quid which I'd be sure you will, and if not.....well, you can always revert.



  • Registered Users Posts: 93 ✭✭sosq


    I have done this over the phone. 5 minutes and old application have been canceled and after that I could go online to do new application.



  • Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭redmagic68


    Yeah checked again factory setting us 70. I’ve reduced it back to 55 in the field settings so see how it goes.

    thanks for the info and opinion. I’ll try it for a month when the suns goes away and let you know.

    8.4 kwp east/west Louth,6kw sofar, 9.6kwh batt



  • Registered Users Posts: 17,998 ✭✭✭✭VinLieger


    Just got quoted for optimisers for 80 euro each if i extend and add panels to all 3 roofs, reading on here that price sounds a bit high?



  • Registered Users Posts: 28 Lob1


    Can be bought for €40 plus VAT



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,528 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    Just to be clear - you have shading on some/all of your panels, right? People, sometimes mistakenly think that optimizers will improve panel efficiency irrespective of what else is going on.

    You may know this, and if so....sorry for stating stuff you already know, but optimizers will only improve production on panels which are shaded, and for that you only need to install optimizers on the actual panels which are shaded. If you have a panel which has a clear unobstructed view of the sun all day long you don't need to install optimizer on that panel. It would be unusual to need optimizers on every panel - but not unheard of



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  • Registered Users Posts: 17,998 ✭✭✭✭VinLieger


    Yup Im aware, ive an east facing end of terrace so same dimensions minus a velux on the west roof and smaller space on south side and im looking to get as much as I can installed



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,528 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    Yup maximizing your roof with panels is invariably a good strategy. I'm not seeing from your answer though why you need optimizers on all your panels though. Assuming no chimneys in the mix (etc), you have

    String1: East facing roof (no optimizers)

    String2: West facing roof (with optimizers) + south facing roof (with optimizers)

    This would mean that you save a few quid by not having optimizers on your east roof. Adding them would be pointless, in fact it may even slightly lower generation by 1-2% if you did install them where they were not needed.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,136 ✭✭✭championc


    If you can parallel one east panel with one west panel and feed into an East/West string, then you don't need optimizers on panels which are paralled.

    The string voltage will be reduced but the current will be higher on that string.

    It means that you may get away without needing any, and need just some Y adapters




  • Registered Users Posts: 30 Markbro1


    Sorry newbie question:

    In your example above there are optimizers on the west and south facing roofs. Is this because they are on the same string and will be getting different amounts of sunlight depending on the time of day therefore either aspect will be shaded at times?



  • Registered Users Posts: 3 hla


    Any views on which system is the best. Price is not an issue.

    I been offered a GivEnergy system OR a KStar system. Both include batteries



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,528 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    Correct. You can think of different aspect facing roofs as equivalent to "shading" in essence. Basically without getting too technical, the internal electrical resistance of a panel changes with the amount of sunlight on it. When all the panels are facing the same way and all have the same amount of light landing on them, they all behave the same.

    If however, you have a panel with some shade on it (Chimney/tree/etc) then because it doesn't have the same amount of light falling on it, it won't have the same internal electrical resistance and the production is reduced. UNless you have an optimizer on that panel, it will also drag all the panels in that string down with it.

    Championc above gives a very good (but little used) solution. You can wire different roof aspects in parallel. You have to have the same number of panels, and also the same type, but you could put 4x panels on "roof x" wired in parallel with 4 panels on the "roof y", and doing that would enable you to not use optimizers.

    There's was a recent thread on shading - have a read

    Solar PV - Effects of Shading — boards.ie - Now Ye're Talkin'



  • Registered Users Posts: 19 Freewheel


    I’ve received 3 quotes in cork for a small system that all come on around €6k which seems very high. All I can fit is 6 panels and adding a zappi charger and water diverter. No battery. Perhaps a small system isn’t as cost effective. Thoughts?



  • Registered Users Posts: 17,998 ✭✭✭✭VinLieger


    Thanks for that ill get back to them with this info see what they say



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,528 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    Go have a look at Solar As A Service (Saas) - they are very competitive for smaller systems. Infact I'd go as far as to say the best for that size install. I don't believe you pay them any money upfront, but €40/month (or whatever it is) for 10 years. You will invariably save more than €40 on your electricity bills so it's a positive instant improvement.

    Not used them myself, but look back over this thread, there's references to them.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 17,998 ✭✭✭✭VinLieger


    Right just chatted and adding in 3 panels, so 15 total and 8 optimisers brings it to 10790 after grant, im wondering if its worth it to bother for just the addition of 3 panels even if they will be south facing



This discussion has been closed.
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