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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,391 ✭✭✭nigeldaniel


    its the thomson tyres that were the issue, i never came across such a tough pair of rubbers in my life [i put a lot of miles on them]. i damaged a small bit of the back rim and that when i stopped trying. the bike is a flat bar triban 500. i have since gone back to using my mountain bike.

    Dan.



  • Registered Users Posts: 491 ✭✭Elvis Hammond


    Thomson tyres? Where did they come from? The originally fitted Triban branded ones are the same as the RC120 comes with, & I could get them on & off just with my hands.

    The wheels might be a bit different, but hardly in a way that makes trouble like that.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus


    I think I have sorted this issue.

    we all know how sounds like to migrate around the bike, and I finally settled on this particular sound coming from the seatpost area. Took the seatpost out, and the Giant D-Fuse post is held in place with a 3 piece wedge. Took it apart, greased all surfaces, reassembled and re-seated it properly (fore those of you familiar with the setup, it wasn't bottomed out in the section tht holds it.

    Also cleand and greased the seatpost, and cleaned inside the seat tube. Short spin down the road and back, and the noise seems to be gone 🤞🤞🤞



  • Registered Users Posts: 180 ✭✭Bot1


    So, I bought a new Giant TCR Advanced 2 disc from a Giant store in France.

    I'm back home but I'm looking at the tyres.

    Does anyone know if they come set-up tubeless already? no tube and with with sealent added?

    Or are they merely tubeless ready - with rim tape already added, need to remove tube and add sealent.

    How would I check?



  • Registered Users Posts: 21,648 ✭✭✭✭Squidgy Black


    Giant website says “Factory tubeless set up including sealant, 32mm max tyre size” so they’re probably setup with sealant.

    Have a look at the valve stem, usually they’ll have a much thicker locking ring than the usual skinny silver one for tubes.

    Or you could deflate it and peek into the rim but then you’ll have to re-bead the tyre of course



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  • Registered Users Posts: 180 ✭✭Bot1


    Yeah, it's got the thick locking ring alright.

    Just checked the website and as you say it says sealent added.

    I'm going to assume they are setup tubeless.

    Any recommendations for tubeless tyre pressures for Irish roads?



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,059 ✭✭✭Roberto_gas


    Best place to source cheap carbon paste for seat post ?



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,059 ✭✭✭Roberto_gas


    I keep them around 80-90 range most if the times



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,404 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder




  • Registered Users Posts: 2,212 ✭✭✭JMcL


    Any recommendations for tubeless tyre pressures for Irish roads?

    I'm running 70-75 on 28mm tyres for the past 4 months or so with no issues. I played around with pressures between about 65 and 80 and that seemed to be the sweet spot for me though depending on hoe heavy you are that might vary - I'm around the 90kg mark at the minute, though if/when I shift some of that, I'll likely back off the pressure a bit

    I keep them around 80-90 range most if the times

    If you're going that high, I'd make sure there's no upper limit (hookless rims for example usually have a limit in the low 70s). For what it's worth, I'd usually have run 25mm Conti 4 seasons around the low 90s (with tubes) and I think only ever got the one pinch flat (which in the particular circumstances would have been hard to avoid)



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,749 ✭✭✭Large bottle small glass


    What weight are you and bike combined? What's actual tyre width? Are you riding smooth tarmac, tar and chip or broken roads?

    There's no one answer but I don't see much point to tubeless unless you are looking for low pressures circa 4bar/60psi.

    I'm running around those pressures with tubes in 31mm tyres at a combined 95kgs on bad surfaces.



  • Registered Users Posts: 180 ✭✭Bot1


    As a mountain biker who has been running tubeless tyres, over the most extreme surfaces for about 3 years without a puncture!

    I'm completely sold on Tubeless tyres.

    In a mud-fest I can lower the front tyre pressure to 16psi on my 2.5inch tyres!

    I have zero experience of tubeless on the road though.

    I'm 68kg and the bike is ~8-9kg.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus


    Is it possible to take brifters from a rim brake bike, and put them on a cable actuated disc brake bike?



  • Registered Users Posts: 491 ✭✭Elvis Hammond


    What kind of levers are on the bike as it is? If they're brifters of some kind then it almost certainly has calipers with the same cable pull as the rim brakes.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus


    They are Sora brifters. Looking at replacing with 105 brifters



  • Registered Users Posts: 491 ✭✭Elvis Hammond


    Yeah, the same levers would be used for rim & disc. Of course, one would assume this is a properly spec'd bike, with 'road' type calipers.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus


    One can assume all other aspects of the swap have been thought of, and catered for 😁


    Cheers Elvis



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 20,327 Mod ✭✭✭✭Weepsie


    Decathlon and Halfords have it in very small tubes



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,404 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    not a maintenance question, per se - anyone here have a bosch motor on their e-bike and knows how conservative they are in terms of range estimation?

    my wife's bike currently states a range of 3 miles in tour or 2 miles in sport, but the battery gauge is still showing two of five bars; i think she's done 50 or 60km since last charge, so my guesstimate would be over 15km per bar of battery, but that doesn't match the range estimate when the battery does hit two bars.

    she's never let it get below two bars i think, mainly because of that estimate.



  • Registered Users Posts: 17,929 ✭✭✭✭Thargor


    What type of valve is this please? Is it actually a Presta? It lets all the air out as soon as you unscrew the silver wheel. A neighbour got given a bike with two of these on it and I couldnt get a fit to pump it without losing half the air, would a Shrader to Presta adapter work for his Schrader pump?




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  • Registered Users Posts: 922 ✭✭✭monkeyslayer


    Yea you'd need an adapter for your presta pump, it's a dunlop/woods valve, think halfords might do them as you'd find them on kids and 'ladies' bikes



  • Registered Users Posts: 17,929 ✭✭✭✭Thargor


    Okay thanks, thats weird that I never heard of that, this will do the job I assume?




  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,404 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    given the hassle involved, rather than the cost, i'd just consider replacing the tube.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 20,327 Mod ✭✭✭✭Weepsie


    I can inflate a Dutch valved tube, but can't keep them inflated. I just don't get the. Youve to take the collar off to get them on the rim, but that seems to be key to keeping air in too



  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Remember the old school pumps you could attach to the top tube and they had the attachment you screwed onto the valve and the pump, if you take the collar off the valve core will just pop out no? Modern pumps all seem to clamp on.

    I actually found some old valve cores in the shed not too long ago and took me a while to remember what they were for.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,626 ✭✭✭traco


    That valve brings back memories. Haven't seen one in decades.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,404 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder




  • Registered Users Posts: 7,962 ✭✭✭cletus


    The only thing I can think of is that li-ion batteries don't deplete lineally. If you've ever used one in a battery powered tool, you'll know that they work, and then just stop, pretty much




  • Registered Users Posts: 1,626 ✭✭✭traco


    Can you calibrate the display to the battery as this is something I've seen on systems before. It used to happen on Segways that were always topped up where the software needed to relearn the top and bottom levels. The reste was run it flat and fully charge and it might have needed to be done 2 or three times.

    The other thing you could do is get one of those wall plug power meter things. Run the battery flat and then fully charge and see if its taking the correct amount of power. A failing pack will not be able to take all it should.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 799 ✭✭✭ciarano


    Can anyone help?Im restoring an old C40

    I can't get the left crank off.

    Can it be tapped off? Any other ideas ?

    The self extracting bolt came apart and now won't work,It's a Dura ace 7700 crankset it's cream crackered.I just need to get crank arm off

    Thanks Boardies




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