VFR 750 or 800

Have a mate who prefers the 750 aesthetic also (the whole nr look with the cool testarossa slashes) but for me the brakes are weak hence why I'd go 8. Also, a bit more zap is always welcome:)

Purists prefer the gear driven camshafts of the 750. Personally, I had a V-Tec car, so I always wanted a V-Tec bike too!! Either way, the V4 engine is great, and sounds beautiful!

They are prone to electrical issues with the R/R, so it's worth replacing. Other than that they are fairly bullet proof.

There's a VFR owner club on Facebook, people advertise VFR's on there for very decent money, and plenty of other info on them there.

Personally I like the 750 RC36-2, The NACA ducts are such a 90's icon that I think it would be hard to convert me to the RC 46.

I remember before I got the 800 I was torn between the too, obviously I went with the 800. I can't remember my thought process at the time, but I think the fact it was more modern was a big selling point. One thing that a lot of people don't know about the 800, they have amazing headlights, if you'll be doing any riding in the dark, get the 800.

I had a 800 Fi (99) for years; had a brain fart & sold it.

Biggest mistake I ever made; really, really loved that bike.

Fantastic bike, brilliant all rounder. Had it all over Europe & it never missed a beat.

At this stage any 98-2001 VFR should have the rectifier changed; a handy mod is to attach a computer case fan to it powered from the tail light.

Other main point is the exhaust collector box, again will most likely have been replaced with a stainless. If not, it's expensive.

Owners usually cherish them, so good ones are common.

Yellow is the fasted colour

Both are fabulous. VFRs are some of the best road bikes ever made.

The 750 is becoming a bit of a classic these days, my own one is coming up on 90,000 miles and the only issue I've ever had is the regulator/rectifier but that was a 90s Honda thing....they all did it. Easy fix too. Everything else on the bike has been faultless. I bought brand new calipers for it a few years ago, they came up on ebay by chance, and that upped the game in terms of the front brakes. They're standard 90s brakes so they'll never be that special but they're perfectly fine when serviced properly.

The valves have never needed adjusting and the engine is superb, the torque delivery is just so creamy on them. People give out about carbs but my 750 has never suffered from any carb related issue like carb-icing or anything like that, just pure and perfect fuel delivery.

If you buy a 750 you'll probably need to have the forks serviced and the rear shock either replaced or rebuilt (MCT in the UK rebuilt my Showa original unit and it's lovely and supple now). Actually same for the 800 at this stage. Forks can be a bit squishy so change out the oil, change the seals etc, maybe splash out on new fork springs to match your weight and not only will it feel so much better but it'll also help the front brakes feel better too as you'll use more of your stopping power to stop the bike rather than just compress the forks.

It's a good idea to ensure all earth points are clean and corrosion free as well, that helps to keep the charging system in order. The 3-pin plug on the yellow generator wires which goes through the middle of the vee of the engine can melt and take the charging system down, if you buy one, remove the plug and solder those wires instead. If there are any dashboard related issues, it can usually be put down to some corrosion on the PCB behind the dash (same on the 800 too), so remove the front nose cone and clean the PCB of any corrosion if something like a temp gauge isn't working.

I have the 750 RC36-2 model, and an early 800 VTEC model. Both feel similar but the way the 750 delivers its power is sublime, so so easy. The VTEC is different in that regard, it's not as smooth because the fuel injection probably runs a little lean at lower revs but the VTEC transition noise is addictive and it really gets a move on above 7500rpm. Brakes are linked on the 800s (all of them), I find that grand, others hate it. Side-mounted rads are interesting too but you'd miss the whine of the gear driven cams on the 750...

The one thing the 750 did not have was official hard luggage although Givi and Hepco&Becker etc all made racks for them but it'll cost you. The 800 VTEC had factory hard luggage [made by Givi] which was matched to the bike. Givi topbox racks are available for all VFR models I think. All you need then is a set of soft panniers if going long haul. Speaking of which, you'll easily get 200 miles from a tank of fuel when touring on the 750. I got to 240 once and still had about half a litre left.

Both are super bikes and I'd be happy to answer any other questions on them either here or by PM, I spent a lot of time working on the 750 in particular to get to know it years ago and I'd say I've read almost every page of the bikersoracle.com/vfr forum and vfrdiscussion.com.

Hard luggage is nice but spends 360 days of the year in the attic for most people. Top box and roll bag, bosh. Happy bike hunting.

Very tasty indeed fatbast. What sorta money on it?

fatbast wrote: »

The 750 looks better but the brakes better on the 800..both will have tired suspension by now and brake lines will likely need replacing. Great bikes . I have a rare vfr800 : the current model ....with luggage quickshifter abs . Its an underrated bike no one buys them though.

I replaced the 750s brakes with brand new calipers from the Hornet 600. Exact same caliper! It made a big difference and was cheaper than buying new seals and pads etc at the time. There's an ebay seller from Italy who has all of these random brand new Honda parts. He probably has something for the 800 too.

You can also go all out and buy adapter plates to fit four-piston Firestorm calipers to the standard forks and pair it with a master cylinder from an ST1300 Pan European to keep the standard look or just get a Firestorm m/c [but it'll block your view, partially, of the dash] to match. Or remove the front end entirely and fit a set of Firestorm forks [you'll need the Firestorm mudguard too]. Wheel fits perfectly as does axle so you'd be grand. However, you'll need to rebuild the Firestorm forks, they weren't brilliant to begin with. I opted to just rebuild the standard forks and am very happy with my setup.

New brake lines are easier on the 750, no front-rear linkage, so an easy home job to do.

Check the rear fairing under the rear light on the 750, that can crack and break and is a weak spot on the aging plastics. Not a bad idea to have it strengthened up by someone good at fibreglass repairs, it'll save headaches down the road.

Also, good idea to find some rubber washers to put between the fairings and frame contact points to prevent rattles and small cracks worsening from our "roads".

MY VFR gen 5, I would consider getting a 2nd VFR 750, to start a small collection.

Would have to be Red, on Wicklow Plates, anything with less than 40k miles on Clock, I would consider buying.

If you go for the Fi, there are a few things to look out for, namely charging and cooling.

The reg/rec can not only give trouble, but replacements need to be up to the challenge, so just because they are replaced doesn't mean problem solved. Check for overheating, and if possible, go for the MOSFET type, to be sure to be sure.

The rads are split left and right on these, and if the wrong sort of coolant has been used (Silica based) it will cause trouble. I had the water pump seal go needing the whole pump to be replaced. They run **** hot and the frame acts as a sink, which is why other things can get cooked too. There is only a fan on one rad, which doesn't help. T-stats can stick in the open or shut position as they run under rough conditions. They sit in the V-bank, under the throttle bodies and are a bitch to get to. For peace of mind, there is a Mitsubishi one that is a better spec of opening and closing to get better cooling ranges.

Also, there is an access panel under the nose of the fairing. This allows access for lights, AFAIR. If it is missing, walk away. Moisture will have gotten in and corroded the PCB for the clocks and digital display. This is usually an expensive fix. In fact, if it's missing run.

Apart from that, great bikes. :)

Lots of Honda's would be known for reg/rectifier and frying stator problems.

Also any bike with a ceramic water pump seal, coolant containing silica isn't good for them.

This isn't widely known either, lots of bike specific coolants are silica based. Castrol Radicool springs to mind.

Silica was introduced to combat scaling inside the coolant system.

Basically there were two camps Japanese and USA that developed different coolant technologies based on their common water chemistry, the US has lots of hard water and opted to go for a silica based coolant that scoured the metal as it passed over it to reduce buildup.

The Japanese have mainly soft water and didn't use silica instead and designed their engines around silica free coolant which in some cases like the Honda Pan/Deau/CX etc meant that they could use ceramic seals for long life in their waterpumps.

People unknowingly used silica coolant in the Japanese spec coolant system and the seals wore away and failed.

If you want coolant buy JIS K2234 Spec or buy Honda Car coolant which is fine for bikes.

I think that one has Silicate in it, as does the Kool. I use the Kool XL which is silicate free.

Good info on coolant!

Yep, I am mistaken the Iced Kool is Silicate free. I was looking at the Kool Meg, they have rebranded some of the range and it threw me.

https://www.motorcycletrader.net/ROCK-UPGRADES-KOOL-RANGE.5752249.cms