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10kWh LifePO4 DIY Battery Addition..... Here is my write up.

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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,123 ✭✭✭championc


    @S' looking good 👍



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,307 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    If it's from the inverter to the BMS/isolator (like your diagram), you can also use pylontech cable kit and snip one end and put whatever lugs you need on it. Or maybe it has the lugs on one end anyway don't recall, had to snip them to put them into the 125a mcb.

    Maybe add another one of those marine switches on the negative to tidy things up and have only one cable going to the inverter?



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,949 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    Is it possible to purchase the "insert" to battery (opposite end of the lug) for Puredrive/Pylontech and just crimp your own cables to custom length?

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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,307 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    Not worth it, those round plugs for the battery connectors are not cheap (cost more than the ready made cables) and require special crimper too.

    I picked up a pylon cable pack from midsummer for around 30 ish.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,949 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    €30 is decent, the reason I asked is because I was gifted a dryness set for my DIY battery pack and snipped off the "connector" end, at the end of the day a crimp and not propriety (crimp) in nature

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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,389 ✭✭✭randombar


    Hi Lads, does anyone know what the approximate losses in this set up are?


    10kwh LifePo + Seplos + Sofar



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,038 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk




  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,949 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    Which is why we encourage self consumption there and then as much as possible and also discourage batteries to charge an EV as there are further ~8%-10% there

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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,389 ✭✭✭randombar


    Yes, plus it's good to know when calculating the energy savings for overnight charging. It's not nightsaver vs daytime it's really nightsaver + 20% vs daytime



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,038 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    What I've found is it's mostly on charging eg 15% on charge, 5% on discharge but I don't have hard numbers for that

    I'd say in the summer, discharge the battery into a car, if your on a day night as your export isn't measured anyway



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,452 ✭✭✭DC999


    So that setup means you've around 20% less capacity in the battery basically (than what went into it). Am not being critical. Good for me to know when looking at battery options. All batteries have losses of course.



  • Registered Users Posts: 65,320 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    No, you get about 20% less coming out of the battery than you put into it (@graememk and others have measured this). But you have also got losses even before putting it into the battery


    The whole process: PV from your panels -> PV inverter converts to AC (10% loss). AC inverter (like Sofar ME3000SP) converts to DC for batteries (10% loss). Then AC inverter converts DC from batteries to AC for your house (10% loss). So overall 30% or so loss. This is less in a hybrid inverter as DC is stored directly and only once converted to AC for your house so only 10% loss in total



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,389 ✭✭✭randombar


    I'm just working out how much I save per day charging on the nightsaver so not working with Panel -> inverter losses. PV has paid for itself already I'd say.

    I'd say saving maybe 0.75 and 1.00 a day.



  • Registered Users Posts: 65,320 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    In my own case: 20kWh (usable) battery, day rate 27.43c incl VAT, night rate 7.90c incl VAT

    So savings per month:

    30 days * 20kWh * (0.2743-0.079) * 80% efficiency = nearly €100 per month saved by peak shifting...

    Paid €2300 for the battery a few months ago, so you can see it will pay for itself very quickly indeed. And of course taking electricity from the grid at night when it is mostly green (from wind) and using it when it is in high demand and mostly made from burning fossil fuels during the day is a very important consideration too.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,389 ✭✭✭randombar


    You are using 20kWh * 0.8 (16kwh) of electricity from 8am to midnight??



  • Registered Users Posts: 65,320 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    Yes I'd empty the battery alright every day in winter and then some. Busy 5 person household, working from home, I use almost zero fossil fuels. Heat the house with electricity, have 3 electric vehicles. Heat the water with electricity. Have a large solar thermal and very large solar PV setup too.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,949 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    Apart from EVs, I'll be able to run the home for three days with my battery backup, that's immersion, oven etc, everything (just not oven+immersion at the same time).

    I'll need a changeover switch first but for the time being will go with dedicated sockets fed from EPS of inverter, the need might never arise so why plough funds into it

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  • Registered Users Posts: 27 mrohare


    Any last minute tips???

    2 of my 4 boxes of cells arrived today, hopefully other 2 very soon. I have (near enough) all the other parts waiting - including ME3000SP.

    how long should it take to top balance the 16 in parallel? should I just do the 8 for now and then the 2nd 8 seperately?

    I have bought a capcity tester - should I capacity test each cell seperately or in groups. i.e. if 1 group is low then just test those 4 seperatly.

    after capacity test, how long will the 2nd top-balance take?

    for anyone who has already done this, are there any mistakes you made, or anything you have discovered that is worth giving me a heads up on?


    Thanks.



  • Registered Users Posts: 377 ✭✭munsterfan2


    I would fully charge a single cell, then test it with the discharge tester while charging the next cell. It will take a number of days to work through the cells. If any of the cells arent capacity lodge complaint with aliexpress / paypal ASAP. There are time limits on these. Dont bother trying to interact with OYear, they will only look to delay you.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,949 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    8 top balancing at a time, low amps first then higher, I assume you have a BMS in your setup that can manage 16 batteries, this means you don’t have to be 100% with the top balancing

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  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,949 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    Wrap your wrench in electrical tape as much as possible, you don’t want to drop it and short a battery

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  • Registered Users Posts: 520 ✭✭✭electricus


    What BMS and inverter would you recommend for a smaller power backup pack based on 8S CALB cells? Ideally the pack will be (semi) portable with built in sockets.

    Apologies if this is the wrong thread – I don’t have solar or an inverter so not looking to build anything as big as discussed here (as much as I’d like to!)



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,123 ✭✭✭championc


    You can't have 8s - the voltage will be too small. These inverters expect 48v



  • Registered Users Posts: 520 ✭✭✭electricus


    Thanks, that's what I thought. I'll need a 24v inverter and a BMS that will work with it. I should probably start a new thread somewhere but asking in case anyone has tried it.



  • Registered Users Posts: 65,320 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    If it's a backup pack just for very occasional (emergency) use, would you not consider those all-in-one packs? They have everything built in, a charger for charging them up, an inverter for powering your applicances with 3 pin sockets, usb sockets, some even have inputs for PV.


    This thread is more about large home attached power walls that are cycled every day and see some real heavy duty use.



  • Registered Users Posts: 520 ✭✭✭electricus


    I looked at the backup packs but it looks like I could potentially get a much better battery for less if I built myself. I know its more trouble but hopefully this experiment will better prepare me for a future solar install (if I get get a bigger south facing roof!).

    Anyway, I'll stop polluting this very informative thread.



  • Registered Users Posts: 65,320 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    Any reason it has to be a 24V pack? Would need 8 CALBS and that's going to be heavy. I would just buy 4 CALBS for a 12V pack, use the busbars that come with them and buy a decent quality sine wave inverter. Tape it all together. Don't bother with BMS if you are only ever going to use it occasionally. After use just check the 4 cells individually and charge up the ones that are lower, and then just store. Rinse & repeat.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,038 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk



    Something along these lines? What sort of power do you need?

    https://youtu.be/XFn1j1mq1U8



  • Registered Users Posts: 520 ✭✭✭electricus


    Very true, 50kg is heavier than I thought. I was thinking of a pack I could charge on night rate and use during the day for washer, dryer, air fryer etc. and also in case of power cuts as I work from home. Not sure how long I'd keep that up without grid tie in, so a smaller battery makes more sense if its not powering the whole house. Think I'll keep go with a BMS though to extend battery life and avoid problems.


    Thanks, looks interesting! Thinking about it, a 4 cell 12v setup will give me about 2kWh (80%) which should be enough, for now at least.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 65,320 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    How would you charge it up and use it during the day for washer, etc.? By micro managing the lot? Hey it's after midnight, I better plug it in to charge it? Hey the battery is full, I'd better buy a €1000 pure sine wave 2kW inverter so I can run my dryer off it? 😂


    You get the picture? You either want a cheap and cheerful all in one for emergencies like I suggested above, or you want a grid tie system. There really is nothing in between that is a good solution for anything.



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