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STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,391 ✭✭✭olestoepoke


    I know a couple of really good experienced plumbers, they have never installed a system link heat genie or connected it to a boiler stove. Is this something a good plumber could tackle with the proper instructions or is it a specialised job where experience in needed?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,530 ✭✭✭Car99


    I know a couple of really good experienced plumbers, they have never installed a system link heat genie or connected it to a boiler stove. Is this something a good plumber could tackle with the proper instructions or is it a specialised job where experience in needed?

    Do you really want someone learning to install a boiler stove on your time , money and in your home?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,077 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    Car99 wrote: »
    Do you really want someone learning to install a boiler stove on your time , money and in your home?

    No the plumbers know how to install the stove it the management system. It will be thing about new technology and tradespeople they have to learn somewhere. If you have a good plumbing diagram any good plumber should know how to do it.
    When putting in insulated slabs 30 years ago I had to show plasters the method, I had to help carpenters to put in solar panels on a roof as it was the first time, we figured it out off a diagram.
    I know nothing about a heat genie but if given the diagram and if you understand the principal and can explain it to a plumber he should be able to install it

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,425 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    I'm pretty sure our plumber got an electrician to do the system link when the stove was going in.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,391 ✭✭✭olestoepoke


    Car99 wrote: »
    Do you really want someone learning to install a boiler stove on your time , money and in your home?

    So you are saying no it is not something a good plumber can do with the right instructions?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,077 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    So you are saying no it is not something a good plumber can do with the right instructions?

    I think it's the word instructions that causes the issue. It sounds like you will be telling him how to do it. In fact you will be explaining to him how it is supposed to work providing him with diagrams.

    If there is an electrical element most plumbers will hand that over to an electrician. Again when I did the solar panels I wired out the control unit myself as the plumber was wary of electrical work.

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users Posts: 262 ✭✭misc2013


    Stove shopping and this falls into budget range at 1,000ish. We predict light usage so don't see the need to go high end but don't want too cheap either.
    Any experience of this stove? An alternative on the similar price bracket is an ACR 550 5kw at 1200. Then it's 1500 and beyond.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,391 ✭✭✭olestoepoke


    Hi guys anyone any experience with using a Heat Hero to install a boiler stove? The system was on the Irish Dragons Den.

    Also, regarding the installation of the Flexi flu liner, is this something I could tackle myself? I'm a carpenter so handy enough and used to working with heights.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,077 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    Installation of Flexi flue is fairly straightforward. You need the flue, make sure it's the right size and length. It can be awkward to I stall before stove as you have to fill around with vermiculite. You will need to seal bottom of pipe. However as you install stove the flue will move a d vermiculite will go all over the place.

    If you know when stove installer is coming you can fit flue a day or two before. You will then need to have a bit of glass wool ( not rock wool) to seal bottom of chimney to prevent vermiculite going all over the place if you ever need to work on stove. Fill to the nearly the top of chimney around flue. I think they put a bit of mirror or fire cement to seal top before installing a cap on old chimney flue. This prevent crows from accessing chimney but also it prevents rain entering the Flexi.

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,391 ✭✭✭olestoepoke


    Greta, thanks for the help. I wonder can the flue be fully installed before the plumber comes to install the stove, so a register plate fitted etc that would prevent the vermiculte from falling down. Or would the installer need the flexibility? Im aware that the flexible liner cannot connect directly to the stove, 600mm minimum away I believe, so a 600mm + stainless steel connector from the back of the stove to the register plate connected to the Flexi liner.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,339 ✭✭✭The One Doctor


    I've gone to MCD in Naul for mine, good guys. Ask for Niall.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,489 ✭✭✭✭Supercell


    I'd like to replace the woodstove in our living room with a gas one. Our house is a bungalow with a gas boiler for the heating and water but no other gas piping bar where that enters from the outside to the boiler mounted on wall.

    The living room is across the other side of the bungalow from the gas boiler.

    What's normally involved in getting the gas over to the other side of the house? - go around the outside , go under the floors or over through the attic or something else?

    We are budgeting for around €1000 for the stove, are we likely looking at another €1000 to get the installation done?

    Have a weather station?, why not join the Ireland Weather Network - http://irelandweather.eu/



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,671 ✭✭✭jay0109


    I'm stove shopping at present and one of the issues a Stove shop has asked about is around the external insulation on our house (external boards put in 2 years ago). There's currently no chimney in the living room so a hole will have to be punched in the external wall and a flue attached on the outside to the external insulation.

    He wants me to be sure I have no issues with him making that hole through the insulation and attaching the flue to it up along the wall. Has anyone any experience with this and any issues they may advise on around it?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,391 ✭✭✭olestoepoke


    Hi guys, we are in the process of installing a 20kw Stratford EB20 multiple boiler stove in our living room. All plasterboard is down and so exposed. So far we have had 3 plumbers come to our home to look at the job, Im told we have a closed system gas boiler in the kitchen, single coil cylinder in the hot press and only one large tank in the attic (as you can tell I know nothing about plumbing). Anyway, 3 plumbers and each one uses a different system.

    1. Systemlink Heat Genie, single coil cylinder will work with this system
    2. Smart innovations Heat Hero, single coil cylinder will work with this system
    3. NRG Awareness, Single coil will not work so cylinder will need to be replaced with a dual coil.

    No prices as of yet, but does anyone have any experience with these systems? Which one works best? If I can get the same result without replacing the cylinder why would I bother with the NRG? Thanks for any advice given.



  • Registered Users Posts: 184 ✭✭nqtfarmer



    Hi all, we’re having problems with a back boiler stove and at this stage we’re wondering should we just disconnect it altogether. 

    I lit the fire for the first time on Sunday and we heard gurgling and loud bangs. The rads upstairs weren’t heating even after ensuring the thermostats were set. 

    so then I played with the orange thermostat down by the stove and moved it from 40 to 25 degrees and there was a big flush of water. And the rads began to heat. 

    but our cold water explanation tank in the attic began to fill with dirty water and even overflowed out the top pipes. 

    can someone explain what it going on?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,391 ✭✭✭olestoepoke


    Anyone know if regular tile adhesive, powdered flexible adhesive that you add water to is ok to use when installing a hearth the a stove will sit on? Also, for the thin (12mm) stone cladding on the walls around the stove, approx 200mm clearance on the sides and back. After a google search I came across Vitcas heat resistant tile adhesive, looks pricey, is it necessary? Thanks



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,404 ✭✭✭✭vicwatson


    Can anyone tell me how to visibly tell the difference between 904L and 316 liner?

    Are there identifying marks on them?



  • Registered Users Posts: 319 ✭✭allanpkr


    i have a olymberyl back boiler, it runs 5 large doubles, 5 small doubles, 1 towel rad , 2 alumn large rads. these are on end of long run, we put a scuttle of ecobrite and turf lite it at 5pm house warm by 6.30pm goes all nite till 11.pm on one load . if really freezing just add a bit of turf and set.had a horseflame 5kw for a 12 x14 ft room and was hard to load even with a glove great stove . but knocked wall down enlarged room so bought esse 200 that also gets one half load ecobrite plus turf for 6hrs of heat. but do remember to balance rads all our rads are HOT cause of balancing.



  • Registered Users Posts: 9,286 ✭✭✭seligehgit


    Seeking recommendations from the experts re the market leader/best quality pellet stoves for room heating in terms of efficiency rating ( insert variety )?


    Reliability in terms of a lack of proneness to breakdown is a big consideration.


    Waterford Stanley do not appear any.I've seen a variety of other models on line MCZ,Kalor,Ravelli,Ungaro and Palazzetti?


    There are few stockists,others require importation?


    I am seeking Ecodesign stoves with 2022 in mind.


    Thank you



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,094 ✭✭✭stevek93


    Hi all,

    I have an awful down draft coming into my stove, when the wind is bad outside it sounds like a hurricane inside my stove.

    I am getting the flashing replaced on the chimney, while the roofer is up there should I ask him to install a rotating chimney cowl?

    I am afraid in high winds this might create to much suction in the flue?



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,318 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Have you considered a H cowl? I've heard of some success with them. Difficult to stop it completely.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users Posts: 3 SUGS


    relatively new to the whole stove idea and there's such a choice out there and very confusing but have narrowed it down to two:

    Elm Stove - great heat output and very large glass however did note on two display models in operation that the heat bricks are cracked(okay you can replace these) and the retaining bar(for logs) at the front of the stove appears to be covered in rust. Is this unusual? Also only a 2 year warranty.

    Vitae 9 - 5 year warranty but have yet to see one operating (bar on YouTube videos). Looks very sturdy and well built and seals around the door looked pretty decent.

    Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 566 ✭✭✭stratowide


    I put in a stanley oisin stove about 2 years ago.All good since with no problems.Great heat from it.

    Question is..Can a backboiler or water heater of some sort be retrofitted to the stove to make use of the excess heat.There is loads of room around the stove.

    The water would only be used for the sink to wash dishes etc and won't be connected to the central heating.

    Is this doable or pie in the sky stuff..?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,077 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    Pie in the sky. If there is a hot plate on it buy a kettle to boil water on it

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,212 ✭✭✭chris_ie


    We're getting a chimney repaired shortly, the stack is cracked and the liner is cracked also. Its an open fire, hasn't been used since we found out about the liner. We've been talking about replacing that open fire with an inset stove. It's in a room that's not used that often. Would be used a bit if we got stove etc again though..

    With regards to the liner repair, they were going to replace it with same liner (diameter) that was in it but I mentioned about the stove as I didn't want to end up having to undo any new works. I see a lot of people use the steel liners dropped down the existing chimneys. Is a new liner (clay) of the correct diameter for a stove better than dropping a steel liner down a wider chimney? Just want to make sure I'm not missing anything. We wont be going back to an open fire, so it'll be stove now and god knows, years down the line be removed if house is ever sorted to accommodate a heat pump.

    Been looking at stoves with external air kits to maybe negate the need for a bit vent in the room. Doesn't have one at the moment but I know when I get the chimney redone they'll need to put one in.

    Just want to make sure that it's lined the best way for the stove.

    Is there an option to drop a steel liner down and not repair the clay liner? Doesn't sound like a good idea. Replacing the liner involved breaking into the chimney in a few rooms which isn't great....



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  • Registered Users Posts: 25 kieronmc


    Hi folks,


    Any recommendations on who would fit a second hand fireline 9c cassette stove on Leinster. It would be into an existing fireplace and would require a new hearth, flexi liner potentially a new lintel.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,077 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    Technically it's not a difficult job. Leinster is a large area. You should define it to at least a county and preferably part of a county.

    A job line that also require's you to have decided what you want. If it's a cassette stove you are unlikely to want it at floor level unless it look like a stove. You also need to assertain what your present flue is set up like.

    You will definitely need a new flue liner, as well as fitting to attach to stove. You will need vermiculite, probably some rock wool.

    Is the house single or two story.

    It's probably a job you could do with a fairly good handy man especially if it's a bungalow

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users Posts: 55 ✭✭mccarthy.087


    Hi folks, need some advice if possible. I built a fairly airtight but not passive house 3 years ago and now I want to put a stove in a chimney I’m reopening in a sitting room. When we built, the plumber told me to run a pipe from the chimney Brest to outside for external air if needed in the future. The only problem is he only used a 35mm diameter pipe. I want to use this now and buy an external air stove but worried the pipe size isn’t big enough. I’m looking at maybe a 5KW room heater stove, the room it will be in has 4 windows each with trickle vents so I’m trying to figure out about a partial external air stove that I could connect to my 35 mm pipe and then make sure I leave at least 2 trickle vents open when the stove is lighting also to ensure they stove has enough air to draw from. Has anyone experience of something similar or any thoughts on this? Il attach a photo of the pipe Iv currently fitted. I don’t want to go drilling a 100mm hole in my wall to install an air vent if possible.




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,077 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    I would imagine that the pipe is big enough. Have you asked a any stove supplier what vent size is necessary. With trickle vents it should be ok I would imagine.

    You get better technical advice from a stove supplier they should have the technical specs

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users Posts: 55 ✭✭mccarthy.087


    Hi, yeah Iv sent an email to 2 suppliers and waiting a response. I called into a stove shop and they said no the minimum pipe size is 100mm. Iv been reading about partial external air stoves which takes air from outside through pipe and also directly from the room. I’m not sure are these a seperate type of stove or if it’s just an adjustment that can be made on all external air stoves? 🤷‍♂️.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 417 ✭✭slystallone


    I can tell above the metal plate in picture attached there is a lot of soot, but if I release the plate I will destroy the house. What would best way to go about removing the soot?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,077 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    Can you move the steel flue.

    Is the house a single or multi story. If it's a single story can you go on the roof and work the door into the stove

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users Posts: 417 ✭✭slystallone


    I'm not sure what you mean by work the door into the stove. Please elaborate.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,077 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,901 ✭✭✭SlowBlowin


    Hi

    I have a Stanley Fionn with a back boiler. I need to replace the glass in the door but I cant remove the door. Before I get more physical with it can someone please confirm it should just lift off ? I does lift up all the way but the bottom pin seems to want to stay put !

    Thanks



  • Registered Users Posts: 417 ✭✭slystallone




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,077 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves



    I have a Stanley Eirn and they just lift off. I think they are stuck on the door hinge but maybe give them a tap of a tacking hammer( this is a light hammer)

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users Posts: 417 ✭✭slystallone


    Also the Gap between the pipe and the edge of the hole cut for the pipe is too big and so the soot would fall out there anyway. This is in a house i've moved into. Looks to me a shoddy installation as the pipe is just sitting there not secured. What are your thoughts?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,077 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    Your problem is basically that instead of installing a continuous flue who ever installed the stove only connect the flue up to the existing chimney. This has meant that the chimney is not possible to clean properly.

    There is probably no easy solution. The ideal solution is to disconnect the flue and take down the plate and clean the chimney. Then reline with a continuous flue surrounded by vermiculite and glass wool. How to remove the plate and try to reduce the impact of the soot.

    You would have to remove the flue first and use some scaffolding or a mobile platform to allow you to remove the plate a box underneath the steel plate using some method of sealing around the gap between the box and the ceiling when the plate is removed

    No matter what you do it will be a mess. It's a matter of reducing the mess as much as possible.

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,832 ✭✭✭ablelocks


    We have a 10 year old Nestor Martin RH33 stove - it's been cleaned regularly and i've only had to replace a chamber baffle once (possibly needs replacement again)

    but given it's age, is there a more comprehensive service required and is this a diy job or does it need a specialist?



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  • Registered Users Posts: 417 ✭✭slystallone


    So your confident enough that the flue in the picture doesn't go up much farther than the plate?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,077 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    Really you need someone to go up on the roof to check. Is the pipe welded onto the plate. The pipe may extend 6-12 inches up into the chimney however it's unlikely to be going much further as the pipe would need to be 20' ling to go up to the roof.

    How old is the house. Is it clay flues or an old brick/ stone chimney. I cannot imagine that anyone completely removed a chimney breast and is using that plate to support the old flues.

    You could drill a hole in the chimney in the attic and put in an inspection camera to see what is there exactly. Either that or someone go up on the roof and inspect it. Are there similar houses to it( ie is it in a row of houses) if there is then chimney structure will be similar I would imagine

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users Posts: 417 ✭✭slystallone


    Pipe is not welded onto plate. It is just sitting loose as below with a gap between edge of flue and hole in plate.




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,077 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    Pipe is probably only going a foot or so above the plate. Take it off stove and you will get an idea of how far by moving it up and down. If you can remove the pipe a commercial hoo er will clean any soot above the plate before removal.of the plate.

    You then use a continuous flexible flue up into the chimney. From stove to the flexible flue you use a stainless steel flue and connect the two. You can leave the steel ate in place if you like. Otherwise you can use a concrete boards and fit it into position and skim it however it may be tricky to do. Fill around flue in chimney with vermiculite, use glass wool( not rockwool) at bottom of chimney just above the steel plate or concrete boards to seal around the flue.

    Seal top of chimney with glass wool and then mortor. Finally cap the flue with a stainless steel cap

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users Posts: 417 ✭✭slystallone


    How do i take it off the stove. It is firmly in place attached to the stove here as in picture when i try to lift it.




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,077 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    A pry, wrecking or nail bar. Get a few pieces if timber 10 mm, 20mm 40mm thick. Use these under the pry bar to protect the stove and to leaver the end of the pipe up. Something like below.

    https://www.espares.ie/product/es1775377?utm_source=google+shopping&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=google+shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1bqZBhDXARIsANTjCPLa-fGQkhcguQJaurMEH0n9jLv-22U_Jn9ztb4bK1itxUGRaDrnJ1AaAs1NEALw_wcB

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,832 ✭✭✭ablelocks




  • Registered Users Posts: 417 ✭✭slystallone


    To me it feels as if it is built in or secured somehow as part of the stove rather than being stuck and needing a prybar. Could that be the reason? Maybe this picture will help.




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,077 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    You should not need to servi e a stove. Having said that last year I replaced nearly all the rope seals on my stove. Biggest thing is making sure the stove is thoroughly cleaned once a year

    Slava Ukrainii



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,526 ✭✭✭Pepp1989


    Hope this is the right place. Had a stove installed last winter. Decoration put on long finger.

    Can someone tell me how to render over the fire plate at the side? Pic below will explain better. Anything I try cracks again due to heat.

    Is there a specific product for this job?




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