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Home charge points (purchase/problems/questions) (See mod note post#1)

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  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,940 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    You may be using a 16amp charge cable

    My stuff for sale on Adverts inc. EDDI, hot water cylinder, roof rails...

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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,481 ✭✭✭NinjaTruncs


    It's a tethered unit, and when I turn off load balancing the car charges at 7kwh.

    I killed power to the house and still only got 3.5kwh, which suggests the load balancing isn't working correctly.

    The current unit is a replacement unit for the same issue, either the units are **** or there is something else at play with the install.

    4.3kWp South facing PV System. South Dublin



  • Registered Users Posts: 23,491 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    How are you turning off load balancing? It’s not a standard setting.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,481 ✭✭✭NinjaTruncs


    If you put the unit into installer mode you can disable Load Balancing.

    4.3kWp South facing PV System. South Dublin



  • Registered Users Posts: 487 ✭✭Metalpanic


    Just an update on my search for quotes for tethered Zappi installed at a pre-wired house. The original company came back with a cheaper price of €1,349. A second company quoted €1300. This seems to be the ballpark figure in the market going on those two prices.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 117 ✭✭GalwayMan74


    Pre wired with isolator and all ?

    If you can change a plugtop you could fit it yourself.

    Screw it to the wall and connect 3 wires.



  • Registered Users Posts: 487 ✭✭Metalpanic


    I'd need RCB, CT clamp and rotary isolator installed. Plus won't get the grant if I attempted a self-install.



  • Registered Users Posts: 117 ✭✭GalwayMan74




  • Registered Users Posts: 4,867 ✭✭✭budhabob


    What are the Pros v Cons of connecting the charger at the meter with all required protections or back to the main tripboard?

    We live in a mid terrace house with tripboard at the rear of the house. When Car charger survey was done the rationale explained to me was they could use the meter connection if connection to the tripboard would damage the fabric of the house.



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,116 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    What are the Pros v Cons of connecting the charger at the meter

    Mainly aesthetic reasons.

    If the consumer unit is in an awkward place in the house and you dont want trunking and drilling going through your inside walls its neater to install outside in some cases.

    If you can run a cable to your consumer unit (via attic) and have it all hidden its neater to do it that way.

    Once its in, there isn't any difference from the perspective of operating the charge point.

    Installing it at the meter box will also have some ugly items installed on your outside wall.


    So, its a decision you have to come to between you and your electrician.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,867 ✭✭✭budhabob


    Thanks for that. As long as no impact to safety or performance that's key for me.



  • Registered Users Posts: 525 ✭✭✭VikingG


    Any recommendations for an installer in the Limerick region? probably looking at a Zappi as would need built in load balancing.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,550 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    I ordered myself a Hypervolt 2.0. Asked them to remove VAT because it was being sent from UK to Ireland. Cost £560 (€650) including delivery. Didn't get hit (yet) with any VAT or customs charges. Happy days!!

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  • Registered Users Posts: 466 ✭✭17larsson


    Pros are you don't have to drill walls or mount trunking/have cable clipped to walls.

    Cons are you have another small board beside your ESB cabinet.

    If it's awkward to get to your board and your charger will be mounted close to your ESB cabinet it's probably the best option



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,731 ✭✭✭11811


    Possibly not the right spot for this question, but anyway...


    I have just bought PHEV and have installed a home charger as it's much handier than the granny charger. Now I'm wondering if it's worth changing my electric plan to day/night one instead of 24hrs. The thing is my PHEV has only a 7KWh battery or so. Is there any point in changing?



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,116 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    You'd need a few more bits of info to answer it accurately as it depends on a few other variables.

    What mileage do you do per year?

    How many units of electricity do you use right now per year?

    And, if possible, how much of it is by day/night? If you already have a day/night meter you should be able to press the buttons on the meter and it will give you that breakdown.


    Once you have that info it is then easy to calculate if you would be quids in or not with a day/night tariff.... my bet is that you would be and even more so with the addition of the PHEV.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,731 ✭✭✭11811


    Ah, I must go and check out my night vs day consumption so! I didn't realise I could check that on the meter!

    Haven't gotten a handle on total yearly units yet as it's a new home, but reckon ~6,000 (have air to water heating, so runs off electric too).

    Probably do about ~10,000km a year. My commute is about 20km, three days a week.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,820 ✭✭✭stimpson


    I had an outlander (10kW battery) and the house had night rate when I moved in. I did the sums after a year and it worked out cheaper on the night rate. We did run the dishwasher at night too. I probably did similar milage as you, but the outlander was heavier on the juice. It’s probably a close run thing with the smaller battery.


    What PHEV do you have? I’m wondering if you have the charge rate and capacity confused as 7kW seems quite small.


    Edit: I found the spreadsheet. It was only over a couple of months (Nov-Dec 2018), but a good yardstick





  • Registered Users Posts: 1,731 ✭✭✭11811


    Ah nice, that's a handy spreadsheet!

    I have a BMW 330e, that has a battery capacity of 7.6 kW. It's not massive but suits my needs.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,820 ✭✭✭stimpson


    Yeah, but you can only do it if you already have the day/night figures. If you can estimate how often you do a full charge and subtract it from your 24hr usage then you should be able to approximate it yourself. Remember that the standing charge is more for day/night.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 12,116 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    have air to water heating, so runs off electric too

    It will be a no brainer for you to move to a day/night tariff... with a heat pump and a PHEV it will be very easy for you to save money.

    You can tell the heat pump to heat all the hot water during night rate so overnight your hot water costs will be less than half the price, all year round. You could probably tweak the heat pump a little to run a bit more by night also and then the PHEV on top of that.

    You should be able to get 50%+ onto night rate which will more than make up for higher standing charge and slightly more expensive day rate.

    But lets see what your current day/night rate figures are and then we can add the PHEV in to see how it works out.



  • Registered Users Posts: 435 ✭✭mc2022B2TF


    Amazing how many big houses in the country built over the last few years all with air to water heat pumps but no solar panels. 100% of their energy coming from electricity (no gas or oil etc.) yet they decided against solar.

    Another one of my gripes is that why no one is installing air to air heat pumps is beyond me as those same houses are like sweat boxes in the summer with no way of cooling them down.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,508 ✭✭✭Manion


    It's because they didn't need to in order to get the BER rating. We've an air to water heatpump but a large number of houses in the same estate but built after by a different builder have gas and solar, which seems an odd combination.



  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 39,039 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gumbo




  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 39,039 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gumbo


    Cheaper is the basic answer.

    With the gas they don’t have the tighter Air Tightness requirements to make the HP efficiently work. They can rely on back stock values for the cold bridge points and don’t have to demonstrate a lower value.



  • Registered Users Posts: 20,021 ✭✭✭✭Cyrus


    Is it easy enough to get heat pump heating water at night ? Never fiddled with it too much but maybe I should



  • Registered Users Posts: 435 ✭✭mc2022B2TF


    You're all missing the point lads. Anyone that relies on electric as their only energy source and doesn't have solar is complete retarded

    People going on about regs. Wtf. Use your own brain for a change.



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,116 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    It should be easy but I dont know what make/model you have. I could only attest to my own. You need to pull out the manual and figure it out. It should be as simple as going into a hot water menu and setting up a schedule that tells it to only heat water between, say 3am-8am.

    Its possibly (likely even) that your installer just left the default settings which will have it heating water as soon as it drops below a certain temp which means it will start heating during the day rate (likely after a shower).



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,508 ✭✭✭Manion


    We've out coming on at 7am for the last hour of night rate. You don't need to run the heat pump through the night and there is usually a control panel where you can alter the schedule. Specifically out heat pump is a DWH as well, so that's what we have coming on. The radiators remain on thermostat. You don't have to run the heat pump through the night, your house will loose heat slowly and the pump uses a lot of power getting started in the morning, so the single best thing you can do is just shift that start point a bit early. Apart from that I wouldn't go messing with settings, could end up costing you a bomb.

    Solar may not be viable nor affordable for a significant number of people. Solar as a service is basically booked out. Additionally there is a massive range in terms of what installers are charging which can result in extremely long payback periods.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 525 ✭✭✭VikingG


    Talking to a friend yesterday who is starting out on a major renovation - asked why he wasn't putting in solar and the response was capital costs - said he simply didn't have the extra 10K that he had priced it at. Obvious solution here is government providing 0% interest loans for Solar. PS he is not retarded



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