Heat Pumps - post here.

Sorry if I'm out of the loop, but can you elaborate on this 4K bonus?

I saw the heat pump for Air to Water for a house is 6.5K, and found it was not really worth it with many installers jacking the price up, so even an install with zero remidial work or new rads was still around 13K. However if there is another 4K bonus on top of the 6.5K, then it suggests only 2.5K out of pocket, which is decent. Can you point me to any info on the bonus?

How much should a heat pump technical assessment cost? Does anyone have any recommendations in Dublin?

I've an A2 rated house with gas fired central heating (and water) at the minute and a heat exchanging ventilation system - so it should be good to go for a heat pump. I guess the only question I have about suitability is if the existing radiators are big enough.

Hi all. This is my second year in my current house. It is a second hand home and about 15 years old, but well insulated - BER A3. The house has a geothermal heating system.

Last year I was surprised how high the electricity bills were, 350p/m. We were operating blindly leaving the heat pump run overnight with only a strong idea that the heat pump was the culprit of the high bills.

This year we have solar panels and the beauty of having that system is that we have the stats showing what is going on. Last night I turned on the system for the first time post Summer observed the following:

When I switched the system on, the consumed power in the house increased by 1.5kw and remained relatively flat until about 4 hours later when the increase went from 1.5 to 3.5kw and this remained relatively stable until I switched it off this morning. Does 3.5kw seem very high?

Thanks

A typical heat pump can use upto 3.5kW alright, particularly in really cold weather and when trying to heat water to 60°C

However, you should not be turning it on and off. It is not like an oil burner where you fire it up for an hour or two and then shut it off.

You should set the HP so that it can get your house up to your desired temp and let it turn itself on/off as it needs.

If that results in it running continuously at 3kW for 24hr then you have something seriously wrong with your setup. My guess is that you do have something wrong as you said it consumed 1.5kW for a continuous 4hrs. That looks odd to me since its not cold yet.

Is the system showing any errors?

Have you ever got the system serviced?

It might be using its internal heating element instead of the compressor, which would drive costs up significantly but it should only do that if there are errors with the compressor.

It should be obvious enough... when the unit starts you should hear the compressor running. If its running off the element it will be absolutely silent except for the circulation pump.

What make/model is the HP?

rather than turning the unit on and off run it to heat on the night rate and then set it back say 2 degrees during day time.

That is the plan once the colder days kick in. For now I am just trying to learn what is happening and build up a list of questions for the poor person who will be servicing it.

I'll be back here in a few weeks with hopefully a better understanding of how the system is working, and hopefully not a large bill to replace something broken.

Is there any ideal temperature to heat the water to? Is there a temperature that you can achieve a balance between the energy used to heat the water and the efficiency of heating the floor area?

Mine is set to 42 - the house never really gets "cold", but I wouldn't say the floors feel particularly warm. And there are definitely cooler parts of the downstairs.

i thought there was a target temp for water to make sure there's no bactieria in it? maybe its 50 but i thought maybe 60?

Hi all, just looking for some guidance, new build with a Daikin Altherma 3r, underfloor bungalow.

I have the unit ticking over since tiling has been finished,stats turned down and off in some rooms, not moved in yet but we hope to move in end of month.

It has been 2 months since install and noticed today the unit has used the BUH for 50 hours for space heating. Is there any way to disable BUH for space heating? I think it is required to raise flow temp initially.

Also, playing around with weather curve, turned, lowered the slope and height of curve few days ago and power consumptions seems to have increased. Can you lower the flow temp to low as in the units will run longer and not reach desired temps?

Hey, you just looking to put more heat the WFH room and nothing else for now? If so I'd suggest make small changes instead for this winter until you see what's needed.

Buy an infrared heater and point it at your back. About 100 quid or a little more and cheaper to run than larger electric heaters. Room won't really warm up (and doesn't need to) but heats you as if you were in the sun. So whatever solid object in front of it gets heated, but not the air. Thread here: Infrared panels — boards.ie - Now Ye're Talkin'

It's a large space, 35sqm. Drag the tumble dryer in there if you use it. Or the slow cooker. Dry clothes on a clothes horse (on wet days) with your dehumidfier if you have one - believe it or not the dehumidfier is a mini heater. They will all heat the room while you work :) Google how to keep heat in a room (curtains, draught excluders....). Loads of ways to stay warm in a cold WFH room. Hot water bottle on legs, blanket on them too.... Or work somewhere else in the depths of winter if it's too cold (in a room that gets sun).

If you just bought the gaff, you could maybe hold off on larger work for now as you might be fairy smashed money wise. In the longer term you would wanna sort the insulation first (instead of adding more expensive heating).

And bear in mind a 750w heater is going to use 3/4 of a unit of electricity per hour. So if you pay say 40c a unit, that heater is using 3/4 of that per hour. Or 30c an hour.

That LG Standard Plus sounds like an aircon unit if it's 2.5k supply and fit, not a heatpump (which cost much more and are for a whole house). I'd suggest go 1 winter and then see what the room needs.

Yeah, this punter tried it few years ago and said it's supposed to be 1.6-ish COP. Gets well into the detail and ~200 comment from all angles to debate it. Heat your home with a dehumidifier - IWillTry.org

Jist seems to be the COP above 1 is due to it's taking water out that would have cooled the room (assuming you remove the water regularly or it heats to room temp so you lose the gain)

I tried it for the crack. Puts out 26c heat (granted it's low amount of heat moving thru it) and uses 140w constant. Wouldn't use all the time or would be dried out like a prune :) And it's a little noisy. I've it on for a few hours a day to mess around. It deffo did heat the room, but very very slowly (as you'd expect). And you can feel the heat from them in utility rooms - they do heat. I need some heating in the small north facing WFH room, but I'm trying to see what's the lowest constant heat I can get away with. Tis far from a serious scientific endeavour on my part :)

I was in your position a few years back and went for UFH (in slab above 150mm PIR) and combi boiler. UFH is great but it takes a good 24 hours to heat up and nearer 48 to cool down. That's actually good for the most part as I could use a heat pump at night rate for all heating. The boiler heats down to 30C so is ideal for UFH. Combi is also perfect as you're not heating water until you need it. Also means you don't need space for immersion tank. We're now thinking of getting heat pump just for the UFH while retaining boiler for DHW and heating backup. We only spend about €200 pa on DHW so don't see point of changing. We reckon if we run heat pump at night only and get COP of, say, 4 (big "IF") we could more than halve our home heating bill.