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Solar for Beginners [ask your questions here]

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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,027 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk




  • Registered Users Posts: 2,171 ✭✭✭Paul Kiernan


    Another quick one re location of inverter -

    I was looking at the Hypontech inverter and they recommend putting it outside, protected from elements, at eye level! It's meant to have up to 500mm clearance all around it!

    I was hoping to put my inverter in a non-ventilated attic space mounted on a timber stud! Do I need to rethink this?



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,451 ✭✭✭DC999


    I've our Huawei inverter outside (different brand than yours). If it's IP66 (I think that's the standard) it's outdoor rated. Ours has no covering to protect it, it's just bolted to the wall. Backs onto the fuseboard so easy install. Doesn't look very pretty but it's beside a car charger, so that's not pretty either. I put it higher up so less risk of damage.

    Only other place we could put it was a small unventilated attic that gets like an oven in summer. But loads of people have them in attics. Some here with them in hot attics have fans set to come on to cool them when attic temp / inverter temp gets too high.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,508 ✭✭✭Manion


    Regarding the Solis inverter, is a CT claim required to measure grid export and if so would a harvi be suitable?



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,027 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Yes, and No for the harvi. That CT can be in the main consumer unit though, It doesnt have to be at the meter.



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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,027 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk




  • Registered Users Posts: 1,508 ✭✭✭Manion


    One issue with that is the EV charger is wired from the meter so I guess that would show any EV power as an export if I took the CT from the consumer unit.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,508 ✭✭✭Manion


    Would any one have any good you tube videos of end to end solar installation. I'm only starting to realise I need to give serious thought to inverter location. Vendor hasnt visited so I'm unsure what his plan is but I hate surface level cabling.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,489 ✭✭✭Ginger83


    Hopefully not a stupid question...

    Is it possible or silly to install a battery without panels to charge at night time rate and discharge during the day? Obviously the intention would be to add panels at a later date.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,027 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Its more that it just won't "see" the ev charger.

    The zappi will still charge with excess though.

    There is wireless options, I've heard of them using LoRa for the rs485 instead of a cable. But that means the solis meter needs to be beside the consumer unit.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 65,317 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    It's possible and it's not silly. And most certainly not a stupid question. That's exactly what a Tesla Powerwall system does. It is independent of having a PV system or not.

    If it is a financially wise decision depends very much on how much you are paying for the system, the difference between day and night rate, how much electricity you use, etc.

    At this very moment (only 30 minutes from night rate), my house is still fully running (including heating) on my battery which is fully powered from night rate and from solar PV.



  • Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭redmagic68


    My install is coming up in a few weeks time. I’d like to get an idea on the best location for inverter battery and the best set up to control and monitor everything

    Currently we have a utility room where the consumer unit is. I had intended to put the batteries and inverter in this room, it’s a sofar inverter. The consumer unit is on an outside wall so intended to put the inverter here also, inside of course.

    In the future we will get an ev so I want to future proof for that, so was planning kn having it on the same outside wall as the inverter and consumer unit. Not planning on an Eddie as we have solar thermal and a hp.

    one potential complication is that our meter box is on a detached garage approximately 10 metres from the consumer unit with no easy/tidy way of running a cable from the meter to the consumer unit unless it can be worked through the existing duct that the power cables run in.

    my question is, is it possible to get everything set up in the utility room without running cables to the garage and monitor the whole system in terms of production, import and export and also have it work when we get the ev charger or is the fact that meter and the consumer unit aren’t easily connected by a cat cable going to cause problems. If it’s possible how is it best done? I’d like to have a few ideas in advance of the installer coming and going for a quick fix and get out the gate and I’m left with less than I expected in terms of monitoring and control. Thanks.

    8.4 kwp east/west Louth,6kw sofar, 9.6kwh batt



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,489 ✭✭✭Ginger83


    Thanks i thought I was a bit mad thinking about it.

    We are currently saving for solar pv and not sure if we should go for a small system with what we have now and add to it later or keep saving for a bigger system or do something like a battery now and panels later.



  • Registered Users Posts: 65,317 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    Go solar PV first and go big. Maximise the actual panel setup. Yes really. At a later point you can always "upgrade" your system with a hybrid inverter and / or battery or with a separate battery system. Concentrate on PV for now.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,171 ✭✭✭Paul Kiernan


    Does a battery still make sense with the FIT in place? I have a 58kwh battery sitting in my driveway which is perfectly capable of providing my daytime power if I could utilise it! It seems mad to fork out an extra 3 grand for another battery!



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,508 ✭✭✭Manion


    Could you expand on the last point. Why would that affect the positioning of the inverter?

    I've an Andersen with a CT clamp already so I think from a practical point of view it will continue to use excess power, but from a monitoring point of view i guess my consumption figures would be way off.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2 gonepostal


    Can anyone help, I'm looking for an electrician to help with a diy pv install. Also an NC 6 form. North Kildare area. Thanks for the help



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,469 ✭✭✭MAULBROOK


    Fill the roof with panels you won't regret having too many panels but you will regret having too few.



  • Registered Users Posts: 65,317 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    No not really. Particularly not if you get an installer to do it for you and they use pre made battery packs. There's still some merit in it, if you make your own battery and install it yourself if you have high day use and are on a day/night meter, with possibly no smart meter for years


    And yes, V2H / V2G is the holy grail. Charge the car at night cheaply and cleanly from mostly wind and during the day from sun and then provide power to your house when electricity is dirty and expensive. Even sell it back to the grid. Unfortunately affordable solutions are still years away and most EVs can not do bi-directional charging. That said, I implemented a rudimentary V2H system myself this week, where I plug in the high voltage battery from my EV conversion into my solar PV inverter, which then thinks there is electricity coming in from solar, so it immediately starts powering my house 😁



  • Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭redmagic68


    8.4 kwp east/west Louth,6kw sofar, 9.6kwh batt



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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,171 ✭✭✭Paul Kiernan


    That's very interesting! I've been thinking of getting a V2L cable for my Ioniq5 and wiring it to a "generator" switch. It can supply 3.2kw and my average day rate use is less than a kw! The cooker is probably the only thing that would cause it to exceed 3.2kw but even if it does it should trip! The big drawback is I lose power during the switchover so all the clocks have to be reset! Still very handy for, say, power cuts if we start getting them. But it'd be great if there was some way for it to act as a PV array with no switchover and the grid handling any surges in excess of the V2L limit.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,171 ✭✭✭Paul Kiernan


    That's very interesting! I've been thinking of getting a V2L cable for my Ioniq5 and wiring it to a "generator" switch. It can supply 3.2kw and my average day rate use is less than a kw! The cooker is probably the only thing that would cause it to exceed 3.2kw but even if it does it should trip! The big drawback is I lose power during the switchover so all the clocks have to be reset! Still very handy for, say, power cuts if we start getting them. But it'd be great if there was some way for it to act as a PV array with no switchover and the grid handling any surges in excess of the V2L limit.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,171 ✭✭✭Paul Kiernan


    Sorry redmagic, quoted the wrong post!

    I don't know much about yours but I'd suggest do what's needed now and not worry about the future. You can probably get wireless to substitute for a cat cable if it was needed.



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,159 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    Unless your current meter tails are too small, there should be no need to run new ones from meter box back to consumer unit.

    I'd install everything in the utility room. The EVSE should be connected back to the consumer unit (other side of the wall?)



  • Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭redmagic68


    Sorry I must have misunderstood a previous post where in order to monitor what was being used or uploaded to the grid it was necessary to have a connection back to the meter box, initially I thought that could be done at the consumer unit. I’m hoping to connect my battery and solar into the utility room consumer unit and then in a year or so set up the ev charger off the garage which has a second consumer unit running the heat pump. My concern was based on a few posts yesterday that the system wouldn’t know what was going where once the ev charged was connected.

    8.4 kwp east/west Louth,6kw sofar, 9.6kwh batt



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,508 ✭✭✭Manion


    I essentially have the same question but I think it's based on a lack of really understanding how CT Clamps work.



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,159 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    The grid CT should be placed on the meter tails. It doesn't matter which end of the cable it is placed (meter box vs CU).

    I have a similar setup and it works fine. It also has the benefit of not being able to empty my house battery into the EV as the inverter can never see any EVSE loads. The Zappi CT can see any surplus solar and uses it to charge the car.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,508 ✭✭✭Manion


    That is a really nice benefit, but won't your export stats be completely off as measured by the inverter. Any solar used for the EV would show as export to the grid? That said, powering up the EV during the day seems a waste when FIT is higher than night rate it's probably better just to export.



  • Registered Users Posts: 65,317 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    @Jonathan - "It also has the benefit of not being able to empty my house battery into the EV"

    How is that a benefit? Sometimes it's a benefit to be able to charge the car from the battery. Particularly on a good sunny day, when I know the car is going to move in a while and I can charge it at full 7.4kW whack for a few hours, half from the sun and half from battery, as I know the battery will be full again before evening



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,508 ✭✭✭Manion


    That's really depends on the person. It's much easier I think to shift EV charging to night. I'd see a lot of value from that.



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