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Electric shower issue

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  • 29-10-2022 3:29pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 3,208 ✭✭✭


    Hi

    I’ve a Triton T90z about 7/8 years old. An electrician replaced the pull cord in the bathroom with a new switch about 4 years ago after it was starting to burn out.


    The issue I’m having is when using the shower, it sometimes goes lower on power somehow, it’ll sound different and fluctuate a bit then it might stop altogether and come back on as normal.

    When it’s acting up and stops running the light on the pull cord switch is off.

    There's no sign of or burning on the switch or fuse board. Any ideas what could be causing it?

    It's intermittent, it could work fine five days in a row but can also give issues a few times a week. Generally I turn it off for a minute or two then back on and it’s fine again.

    Had a slightly similar problem with it back in 2016 and posted here about it. In the end it was just the pull cord switch. Would it be going again in 4 years?



Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    It's probably the pull cord

    Could be loose wiring there or damage u can't see



  • Registered Users Posts: 17,108 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    Pull cord switch can (sometimes) fail after a year or so. They can also last decades. It also could be a faulty RCBO.

    I would suggest turning it off at the RCBO and not using it until the issue is resolved.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    Ya true should have thought of that, light going off at pull cord doesn't necessarily mean pull cord issue could also be at fuse board

    It's at either of those 2 anyhow that the problem will be



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,208 ✭✭✭Keith186


    Cheers lads.



  • Registered Users Posts: 566 ✭✭✭adrian92


    For it is worth, I have found that the pull cord switches tend to fail over time.


    Suggest just leave this switch on all the time (it will be available for isolation, if required).


    A wall switch outside the room, I have found to be more reliable.


    I wonder, is there a possible plumbing problem here though - perhaps some air in the line to the shower? Some showers have a bleed valve accessible. It was just when you mentioned the noise that it may be air in the water line.

    Just a thought.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 12,390 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    I find these last way longer than the more flat square type




  • Registered Users Posts: 3,263 ✭✭✭naughtysmurf


    And easier to disconnect & reconnect or replace too, if it turns out to be the switch as another poster has said, after replacing it, stop using it every time you use the shower, there is no need, it’s available to isolate the shower if required & will probably never cause you an issue again



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    Ya as above they're crabtree good isolator

    And no need to keep using the isolator,.more likely to give trouble



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,514 ✭✭✭John.G


    I've often read that these switches are for isolation but I couldn't see any electrician working on the shower without isolating at the consumer unit. It's probably a good practice to isolate after each shower, I know of one instance where someone was in the shower when the power failed so they got out without pressing the stop button or using the pull cord, then left the house and came back about 6 hours later to find power restored and a bathroom full of condensation.

    Do the regulations stipulate that its required?.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    An isolator is all an electrician needs to isolate a shower , that's the point that its local to where you're working

    That's always been an issue with showers with them resetting or not tripping out when power fails

    The issue was always there with non- priority units, someone switches on shower no-power and then walks away, shower comes back on when other person finishes up , unless there's been design changes



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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    Theres no arguments that it is good practice to isolate after each shower

    But is it worth it in practice is another matter, probably the crabtree are not prone to failure in use



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    That was why we got warned not to make up our own priority units

    Because when you're example happened and say there was a flood

    Well you're the designer of the unit that caused the flood



  • Registered Users Posts: 566 ✭✭✭adrian92


    Keith,

    The comments strayed a bit from your problem.


    Any progress on your shower problem?



  • Registered Users Posts: 17,108 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    I've a sneaking suspicion it's going to be a faulty RCBO rather than a faulty isolation switch.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    I wouldn't think so there could be wrong though

    Would have thought connection issue at fuseboard or rcbo

    Or connection issue at switch or damaged switch



  • Registered Users Posts: 17,108 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    I'm not a sparks so just going on a hunch. Light goes out on isolation switch. Statistically from an over the phone diagnoses that reduces the likelyhood of it being the switch by 50%. It doesn't rule it out obviously. No mention of discolored switch of fishy smell reduces it further.

    It's just a hunch



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    When you say faulty you mean a connection issue or heat damage at the rcbo

    Fault to me means an issue with the trip so maybe I'm taking u up wrong



  • Registered Users Posts: 17,108 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    They can be faulty inside the RCBO. Not necessarily a loose connection. Same with the pull cord switch. Terminals can be good & tight but the Pull cord switch itself can become faulty in such a way where contact can be intermittent.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    Have u now



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,208 ✭✭✭Keith186


    Not really. It's powered off at the board. Had a peek inside the pull cord box and it looks like new so hard to say what exactly it is yet. Waiting for a call back from the electrician.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    Loss of power can be upstream such as the neozed fire in the other thread but once you go past the supply into the RCBO other circuits are affected

    So in the neozed overheating thread while in the shower you should see your lights dipping

    Same basically as when you've a poor ESB supply , turn on kettle and lights dim

    Unlikely to be relevant here



  • Registered Users Posts: 17,108 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    Did you ever get to the bottom of this?



  • Registered Users Posts: 566 ✭✭✭adrian92


    I wonder what was the cause of this?

    Any ideas?



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