Home heating automation

I'll have to look back at previous posts, search on new boards interface is useless, but looking at that image, is that an earth wire into terminal 3? I hope not, If its actually grounded it could have fried the relay for that CH channel. This is the backplate for a Drayton wiser kit 3 3 zone?

Ok, Ive just had a look back on a PC when I got home, I was away for a few days. I see you origonal post, you had a CTC timer.

"i have 2 zone plus hot water (current one is from CTC brand). I bought drayton wiser 2 zone plus hot water kit. I rang many electricians to install this for me but all refused as they had not heard of this brand. Finally one person agreed to help me out but he has never installed drayton wiser before."

Can you confirm that your Drayton system has Two wall Stats. On you previous CTC timer, could you heat Down only from the ctc controller. Its a pity I dont have an image of the old CTC backplate wiring. Can you check your system to confirm you have three Zone valves, each operating when you select boost on the hub, or from the app. Each of these wires from terminals 1, 2 and three shoud go live when the app switches on each if the two HW or the CH.

If the hub is powering the valve for downstairs, and the zone valve is opening, the only reason the boiler wont fire is if the downstairs live from the zone valve relay to trigger the boiler is disconnected, or the relay is faulty. The valve opens, but Downstairs will only heat if the upstairs is also triggered, and providing a live to the boiler. I assume the electrician did not change any other wiring, just swapped the two controllers. The frst thing to check is if eac zone valve is opening independently. If down stairs is not heating when upstairs only is selected, it would appear that the down stairs valve is operating, but not firing the boiler via its relay, and has become dependent onthe upstairs heating zone, or HW, to be on at the same time. This may have been the case before you changed the controller, or was introduced durin the wiring installation.

Swap terminal 1 and 3, see does the problem reverse or stay the same.

It's just two wires need to be swapped. Sparks should have checked the function of each Switched Live wire to It's valve, one for each, to be certain of which cable went live for which zone, especially the HW one, as these timers are often just three zone without a specific or labelled one for HW. A few minutes before he left would have confirmed the mistaken wiring.

Tradesmen, eh?

You did good. You'll get a kick out of everytime you tweak the settings, knowing you diy'd it.

Smart TRV heads will work horizontally or vertically. If you're replacing an existing TRV head, then no plumbing required. The old head is held on in 95% of TRV cases by an M30 screw ring, so its a straight swap. Drayton comes with a couple of adapters, and they have a full selection of other adapters for odd ball TRVs. https://wiser.draytoncontrols.co.uk/sites/default/files/documents/lm07-019_schneider_wiser_adapter_guide_2020.pdf

Have a go at taking off the manual TRV head and putting it back on. It's a doddle. Youtube your friend

Every home should have an air bleed key for your radiators, and give them a vent every year or so, or if they're not heating across the top. Any hardware store will have them, but don't force the key if its really tight. Spray with some WD releasing fluid and leave for a while. If the rad is hot to the top, don't bother.

channel 1 disappearing is a known defect with the app.

the support team can see channel 1 being saved in the cloud. so not to worry on channel1

this was confirmed during my 2 day marathon calls with the drayton support :-)

Thanks for that. I was wondering because I realised after my post that the system was performing as it should. As I checked such radiators were warm and cold when I was going to bed.

Lots of Happy Shiney people here, it's great. Now carefully clean and pack up your old Nest and it's Heatlink hub, (with luck you might have the original fancy box,) and sell it for a premium on Donedeal. Win win.

I was here a while ago looking for advice on thermostatic valves for the radiators. I have a hive thermostat up and running, just one zone for the whole house. I'm looking to get the smart TRVs installed and I was initially thinking of the HIVE smart TRVs.. But one problem I have is that some radiators are tucked behind furniture, couches, tables, beds.. I imagine it will be difficult for them to get an accurate reading.

Surely it'd be an extra cost, but are there any smart TRVs on the market that come with individualised thermostats which hang, for example, on the wall and which communicate the true temperature to the radiator valve. Basically I'm thinking some sort of system where I buy 5 smart radiator valves and 5 thermostats. Each smart radiator valve would look to their thermostat on the wall for the temperature and direction in terms of increasing/decreasing hot water flow to the radiator..

Or has anyone else solved this problem somehow?

Looking to do some minor upgrade on my heating system. Single zone 20 year old system, Grant external oil boiler with old fashioned APT style on/off/clock unit to control. Have existing TRV on my radiators so was looking to swap these out for Tado smart TRV. These are straight forward I guess. Was then looking to upgrade the APT style controller to smart controller also that we could turn on/off/setup via app, etc. Would the Tado smart controllers work here and if so what one would suit me? Any advice appreciated to steer me in the right direction.

Hot water for sinks, showers is immersion on cylinders. This has a similar APT on/off/clock control unit. Could upgrade this as well.

Thanks for that. CH for the moment only is what im interested in. Was going to put smart TRV on first floor area (5 rads) and leave the downstairs traditional TRVs for the moment although might go mad and do them all. This would give me two zones which is better than I have at the moment.

Thanks. You've answered a question that was puzzling me! I noticed Channel 1 gone a few weeks ago. I've been using Wiser for a a year or two without problems and couldn't understand why it was gone. Everything was still working so i left well enough alone but i was worried i was going to run into problems with it