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Solar for Beginners [ask your questions here]

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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,504 ✭✭✭Ginger83


    Would you mind explaining what the double socket and change over switch does and is for?



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,404 ✭✭✭con747


    At the moment I have a double socket beside my inverter, (you have a picture of it from a PM) I set up all my basics to be able to run off the battery during a power cut. Router, cctv, microwave, toaster, kettle and such like off an extension lead. The changeover switch either manual or automatic will power certain circuits like sockets and lights up to a certain load in the event of a power cut.

    The SEAI have inspected some installations with changeover switches and said nothing so I believe when they were fitted but I heard of a few where they had to be taken out. So I just got the double socket until a possible inspection passed and will be putting in the changeover switch. When getting your install done get a double socket or ask your installer about the changeover switch.

    Don't expect anything from life, just be grateful to be alive.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,504 ✭✭✭Ginger83


    So do you plug something into the socket?

    It's a clever idea to have an option to power things off the battery. I use a machine to assist with breathing sometimes which only has a 6 hour battery.



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,720 ✭✭✭micks_address


    Yeah thats the idea - you can plug in and have power in the event of a power cut. I found it quite frustrating last night knowing Id a 50% full battery sitting there that i couldnt use.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,404 ✭✭✭con747


    If you look at the photo I PM'd you, there is an extension lead plugged into the socket sitting on on the right battery. I use that to bring it to my main devices I have set up about 15ft away. In summer I have the inverter set to stop discharging my batteries at 20% and 30% in winter to have power during outages which I have a lot! The PureDrive batteries can be discharged down to 10% under warranty.

    Don't expect anything from life, just be grateful to be alive.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 21,989 ✭✭✭✭ELM327


    I have the socket coming from the EPS for now, installer said the SEAI wouldnt approve anything else. I intend to change it after grant approval.

    Once your grant money is in, the installer should change it for you.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,075 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    Be very very careful with running the house from the back up supply on the inverter via a changeover switch, current regulations require both the phase and neutral to be switched which is madness. I would not have this in my house, it creates a dangerous installation as voltage on the earth can rise to mains voltage level in the event of a fault, Mcb's may not operate.

    ☀️



  • Registered Users Posts: 21,989 ✭✭✭✭ELM327


    Why is it dangerous? What are the chain of events? (I realise youve given an explanation, but given that this is the solar for dummies thread and I am a dummy with solar).



  • Registered Users Posts: 879 ✭✭✭Delboy5


    Hi,

    I got 12 400w panels installed yesterday, 4.8kwh system, i noticed after the install that the inverter is 4kw inverter.

    How will this affect me, should the inverter have been a 5kw ? Can someone explain how the inverter works?



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,720 ✭✭✭micks_address


    Depends probably how it's wired.. the panels are put on wires to the invertor called strings.. if you have panels on front and back if house or get sun at different times of the day they are put on different strings back to the invertor.. usually inverter can take two strings so you are probably fine



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  • Registered Users Posts: 879 ✭✭✭Delboy5


    All South facing on one roof at back of house....



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,720 ✭✭✭micks_address


    I'm not sure to be honest.. others will comment I'm sure. Even with 4.8kwh panels I'm not sure you'll see that much from them so a 4kw inverter may be fine.. I've 4kwh on my south east roof and I get at best 2.5kwh on a sunny day.. I expect that will improve as the sun is higher in the sky outside of winter..



  • Registered Users Posts: 21,989 ✭✭✭✭ELM327


    4kW inverter is a strange setup.

    I've seen 3.5kW (due to NI regulations) and then 5kW or 6kW here. 4kW on a 4.8kWp system doesnt make too much sense as you could have a 5kW inverter.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,075 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    Basically you need low resistance to earth for your mcb to operate in the event of a fault. Your neutral cable is what's called a protective earth neutral and by switching that you're left with a high resistance to earth. So your house is now in a scenario where under certain conditions your mcb's will fail to operate.

    As I said I wouldn't have this setup in my own house. I have a backup generator and inverter wired to a manual changeover switch but I didn't switch the neutral.

    https://www.ecdonline.com.au/content/electrical-distribution/news/the-dangers-of-switched-main-neutral-conductors-1150404969

    ☀️



  • Registered Users Posts: 21,989 ✭✭✭✭ELM327


    So is this related to the issue of having to have the house grounded as opposed to relying on the mains being the grounding? Thanks for sharing the article. This is still all relatively new to me.



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,720 ✭✭✭micks_address


    So it f you have an earth rod this isn't an issue?



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,404 ✭✭✭con747


    Don't expect anything from life, just be grateful to be alive.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,075 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    There're two "earths" coming in to a house. One is the pen conductor which is connected to the esb neutral in your meter cabinet. The other is the earth rod.

    Your main earth is actually the one going to the meter cabinet. This is a low impedance earth. The earth rod impedance is quite high in comparison.

    Having an earth rod will not protect in the case of having a switched neutral.

    There is the possibility of anything connected to earth becoming "live". Think metal bath, sink, copper pipes etc.

    ☀️



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,710 ✭✭✭Deagol


    Can I ask are you a qualified electrician or similar?


    Reason I ask is that Australia uses different earthing system to Ireland and that article you are quoting is based on their system. An MCB will trip when the current exceeds it's rating so a direct short between phase and any earth will trip the MCB, correct? I don't see how it depends on neutral. Similarly RCB trips with imbalance between Live and Neutral - so again, I'm not following how your scenario effects this?

    Just trying to establish the certainty and correctness of your advise - not saying you're wrong but considering the safety aspect is very important I think it's good to get 100% correct advise posted! Cheers!



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,088 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    It's ohm's law isn't it?

    V=IR

    And depending on the state of the earth rod..

    Say if an earth rod has a resistance of 10 ohm's (very bad) it can only disappate 20ish amps.

    I've seen the state of the old earth rod in my house before it was replaced.(1980's house) we came across it almost by accident.

    Although shouldn't RCDs catch it...



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,710 ✭✭✭Deagol


    I would have expected them to - any imbalance between neutral and phase will cause the RCD to trip - max 30mA I think is standard.



  • Registered Users Posts: 19,654 ✭✭✭✭Muahahaha


    Trying to calculate the sqm of my roof to figure out how big a KWP system it could fit, its a small steep roof on a 3 bed semi and it has a velux window in the middle of it takng space. If I know the sqm of the ground floor and the distance from the front of the house to where the front roof stops (by measuring along the gable) and I know the approx angle of my roof (40-45 degrees) is there a formula I can apply to get the size of the roof in sqm?

    Also am I correct to say that in general 1sqm of panels equates to 150 watts? Is that the limit or are there special panels out there that will give you more watts per sqm?

    Eyeballing the roof space and accounting for the velux window I reckon there is probably 15sqm of space for panels which at 150 watts per sqm would give me a system size of 2,250Kwp which seems a bit small. Im looking to estimate how many kwh a year that could deliver,a pointer to a good calculator would be welcome.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,469 ✭✭✭MAULBROOK




  • Registered Users Posts: 879 ✭✭✭Delboy5


    Quoted for a 4 kwh system with a 4kw inverter but on day if install I asked to fit 2 extra panels....



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,469 ✭✭✭MAULBROOK


    So you got exactly what you ordered. Personally I would have gone for the 5kw inverter.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,075 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    My understanding is that Australia uses a tncs system same as here, I'm open to correction on this but the point still stands regardless.

    When you switch the neutral you lose the low impedance path to earth which is required for an mcb to trip in the required time, your earth electrode impedance can be quite high.

    In certain circumstances an rcd may not provide protection as current must flow to earth, that's how the imbalance occurs. The other thing to consider in a tncs system is that you have circuits that don't have rcd protection, ovens, lights etc. Rcd's can't always be relied on anyway, most rcd's here are type AC which can be blinded by dc currents or you may just have a faulty one. If you have a type AC rcd in your distribution board get it replaced as soon as possible, modern appliances can cause this blinding as well as EV's and PV installations. Type A is now mandatory and type B in certain circumstances.

    All I'm saying is to be very careful with changeover switches, is10101 isn't very clear on whether or not the neutral should be switched and is open to interpretation, I'll try to post the rule on this later.

    I would get advice from an electrical engineer before having one installed as most electricians just blindly switch both conductors.

    ☀️



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,404 ✭✭✭con747


    Ask your supplier to upgrade the inverter and pay the difference if need be, it would be best to get a 6kw one if you intend to add more panels in the future. If not then get the 5kw.

    Don't expect anything from life, just be grateful to be alive.



  • Registered Users Posts: 879 ✭✭✭Delboy5


    Yes I know I got what I ordered, my question really was how does having a 4kw inverter affect my production as apposed to a 5kw inverter?



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,720 ✭✭✭micks_address


    well i guess its going to be limited to taking 4kwh from the panels.. so in theory it will clip at that and you'll loose the excess... but as i said before.. you probably wont see 4kwhr anyway so its probably fine.. keep an eye on your app or however you measure generation.. if you are seeing 4kwhr a lot then you might be loosing the generation from the extra 2 panels.. but my guess is it wont hit that anyway.. your initial post made it sound like the 4kw invertor was a surprise to you..



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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,404 ✭✭✭con747


    You will only be able to use the 4kw generated not the 4.8+ you could possibly be able to use at peak production. That is why my previous post advised to get the 5kw or 6kw inverter depending on if you intend expanding in the future.

    Don't expect anything from life, just be grateful to be alive.



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