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Solar for Beginners [ask your questions here]

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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,240 ✭✭✭con747


    Once the inverter has 2 strings the second string will only need optimisers afaik. If it's a single string inverter they all would. Check the inverter spec sheet.

    Don't expect anything from life, just be grateful to be alive.



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,644 ✭✭✭micks_address


    You only need optimisers if some or the panels are shaded.. if they panels facing a different direction are or a separate string you won't need optimisers.. if it were one string you would



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,449 ✭✭✭DC999




  • Registered Users Posts: 47 prf


    Battery priority mode.

    I have had a few issues with “Low battery voltage” warning lately.I set the inverter to battery priority mode last night,and it charged up within a few hours to 100%.My question is how long do I leave it on battery priority before I set it back to self consume mode.

    Thanks for helping as the manual is not much help



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,520 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    Hey man - you'll have to give some details about your current config.

    To preempt some questions, most inverters have 2 strings input. I'm assuming from your comment above that you currently have 10 panels on one string (input) into the inverter, so you should have 1 string free. You would be able to use that and have your 4 panels on the north east roof into that.

    However, you would only need optimizers on those 4 panels, if one, two or three of the panels of the 4 are shaded during the day.

    If none of the panels are shaded, or all of the panels are shaded then optimizers will do nothing for you.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 65,317 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    And even at that, "needing" optimizers is a big word. They add significantly to the cost of the setup, they have a relatively high chance of failure and they at best only have minimal extra output / revenue. I wouldn't bother with them, unless you have no problem replacing them yourself if / when they break.



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,644 ✭✭✭micks_address


    ive noticed with the zappi.. that it will start charging that car once i have excess solar but even when the solar dips it holds onto the amount and keeps going.. the power is drawn from my battery.. its not a deal breaker but i suppose id prefer if it didnt start to draw power from my battery at all.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,735 ✭✭✭yankinlk


    What type of inverter do you have?

    I have a solis... And keep mine in self-use? Mode all the time... I only set the charging schedule to run in darker months... Oct/nov to march.

    Schedule should match your night rate if you have one so it's cheaper. As long as battery is charging it won't feed the house load... So I stop charging 5 minutes before day rate kicks in. I start at 11pm... On a low amp so it takes all night to fill.

    If you have an ev rate at say 4am for 2 hours... You could set it to fill during that cheap window. Then set another charge window at 0amp untill day rate starts.



  • Registered Users Posts: 21,900 ✭✭✭✭ELM327


    On a solis inverter you don't have the option to set two different windows with different charge speeds. You can set two windows but theres only one option to set charging speed. At least on my 6kW solis tahts the case



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,392 ✭✭✭Fingleberries



    Just with a query about Optimisers and reliability / performance. I am speccing out a possible system - the south facing roof of our terraced home has a dormer window and would likely lead to shade on the panels that would be installed on each side of it (in the morning and in the evening). My understanding is that optimisers would benefit the overall performance by not lowering everything to the 'lowest performing' panel at those times.

    Are the oprimisers likely to create more of a maintenance headache than provide performance increase?



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  • Registered Users Posts: 65,317 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    YMMV but if the average life of an optimizer is 10 years and you have 10 of them installed, that means you'll be up on your high roof replacing one every year on average. That wouldn't be for me!



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,735 ✭✭✭yankinlk


    Actually you are correct.

    My plan if I ever get a smart meter is to set it to charge at the start of the cheapest ev rate window.... So it's full in the two hours.... But extend the time to run until just before day rate

    I think once my battery is full the inverter will drop the charge rate to near zero anyway... Correct me if I'm wrong.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,449 ✭✭✭DC999


    Yeah, they work as you explained. They work for me and I'm not worried about them failing. I've a flat roof that gets shade all year round. 9 panels on the string but only 5 have optimisers. I've seen the lowest at 15w and the highest at 120w at the same time. Without optimisers at that time I'd only get 9 x 15w output. So it would drag the whole string down. And the shading I get means 1 panel gets shaded as the sun moves around the house, then the next.... So having optimisers on it means the output extends.

    If I need to replace them, I'll cross that bridge then. Mine have a 10 year warranty or more. I'd rather the system perform every day than worry about if / when they might die.

    So in total I've optimisers on the 5 shaded panels of the 16 I have. I also removed shade before the install - top of 2 pipes that would shade it were cut to gutter height.



  • Registered Users Posts: 65,317 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    If it's a low roof (like shed or kitchen extension or bungalow) then yeah, it's easy and safe enough to hop on and replace one. I've done the panels on all my low roofs myself, not even needed a ladder. Completely different ballgame on your high roof though, but I guess some people have no problem to go up there either.

    Personally I've seen optimizers used by people around me not only not really doing what is on the tin, but also failing at an alarming rate. I'd stay clear. But YMMV. Also when I was buying most of my panels I got them cheaply, an optimizer would have added nearly 50% to the cost of a panel. Wrecking the pay back time. And that's not on a south facing non-shaded, 100% performing panel of course. They don't need optimizers. The panels that people fit optimizers to already have compromised output, even with the optimizer.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,240 ✭✭✭con747




  • Registered Users Posts: 8,644 ✭✭✭micks_address


    Thanks I've already set to 100.. i will try 150..



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,240 ✭✭✭con747


    I had the same problem with an Eddi and set it to 150w and 30 seconds delay and it stopped the Eddi draining the battery. I would imagine it's the same process for the Zappi.

    Don't expect anything from life, just be grateful to be alive.



  • Registered Users Posts: 47 prf


    I have a kstar inverter and notice at this time of year I can get “low volts warning”,so to stop or reduce this happening I would put the inverter into battery priority mode,which will charge to 100%,.I had the inverter set to self consume and the battery to charge to 90% at 10ampsfrom 1.00 to 10.00 and then to discharge to soc 20%.That seemed to work fine,but after a week or so I was getting the low battery warning.Maybe it needs to be set to battery priority On a more regular basis.I get that it cannot discharge when in battery priority.I don’t see the option to set a second charge time slot in the menu’s.It is there in time of use mode,but the inverter was always set to self consume..?



  • Registered Users Posts: 21,900 ✭✭✭✭ELM327


    Today's Solar for Dummies question.

    Let's say you have more than 1 inverter in paralel. How does one connect batteries to this? Is it all connected to the main inverter and the slaves dont have any?

    I've only seen one video from will prowse where all batteries seem to go into a central busbar and then the busbar has positive and negative going to each inverter. Is that what happens? (In which case, if you have 2 solis "100a" capable inverters -70a realistic - can you then deliver 140a to the battery bank?)

    I'm at a stage where I know the basics about a single inverter system but single phase paralel inverters I don't get.

    TIA



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,027 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Assuming, your on about parallel hybrid inverters.

    I don't know how other batteries handle, but pylontech for example doesn't like being connected to more than one inverter,

    I have seen people who have tapped into the can bus, and relayed it onto a second canbus for the second connection. But assuming you can get the batteries to play nice there's a second hurdle.

    How to stop the inverters "fighting"

    The inverter measures the grid and tries to keep it balanced,

    So you stick on the kettle(3kw), both inverters see the demand. So both start discharging (3kw+3kw), then they both see 3kw export and stop discharging.. and cycle repeats.

    I have heard of a way to do it via paralleling cts on the sofar, so one takes over quite quickly but haven't tried it.

    My dual me3000, the second one is ran purely in passive mode, and told when to charge and discharge via automation. I have it starting to take some load when the first one hits 1.5kw.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 65,317 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    If you're smart and you can find one, get a Sunsynk 9kW. Far cheaper than 2 * Solis and can charge / discharge at 190A (far more than 2 * Solis) 😁



  • Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭redmagic68


    If you are on the night rate and charging batteries is it better for the batteries to charge them slowly over the length of the night rate or just let them charge up at max current?

    I had thought it better to let them trickle charge to protect them but the installer was very much just let them at it max wattage there’ll be no issue. They’re dyness b4850 (not popular here I know 🫣) but I didn’t have the space or confidence for a self build yet.

    That’ll be phase two on my south facing garage.

    8.4 kwp east/west Louth,6kw sofar, 9.6kwh batt



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,240 ✭✭✭con747


    AFAIK most here say to charge at a lower rate if you have time on the night rate to do it.

    Don't expect anything from life, just be grateful to be alive.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,520 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    I think your generally fine charging at max wattage, that's why they have a max limit. That said, why wouldn't you charge at a lower rate if you have a 9 hr window of night rate? As in what would be the advantage to charge at full tilt?



  • Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭redmagic68


    No advantage as such other than that’s what the installer said to do. Makes no difference to consumption and if it doesn’t hurt efficiency I’ll change it over.

    It’s really only going to have relevant for winter time anyway I hope as I’ll set the battery to be at 40% soc after night rate finishes and see if the panels do the rest in spring and autumn then 100% self use in summer with battery discharging in the evening and night. That’s the Plan at any rate I’m sure there’ll be lots of tweaking.

    8.4 kwp east/west Louth,6kw sofar, 9.6kwh batt



  • Registered Users Posts: 65,317 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    Depends on your battery. Many of us with the DIY batteries use CALB cells that can charge and discharge at 0.5C continuously. So if you have a 20kWh pack, it can charge at 10kW no bother at all, all day and all night.



  • Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭redmagic68


    That’s going to be stage two. Hope to put 10x420 kwp on a garage and small shed south facing. It’s here I’ll put the diy batteries as I have space for them out of the house. There’ll be no grant so I’ll squash as many panels in as possible, second inverter and 20kwh diy pack. Just spent a tonne on the the current one so I’ll let it run for a year at least see what it does and try to get some cash together.

    8.4 kwp east/west Louth,6kw sofar, 9.6kwh batt



  • Registered Users Posts: 21,900 ✭✭✭✭ELM327


    Even getting a victron 15kva quattro (the largest single phase I could find).. what if you want 30kWp of panels.

    There has to be a way of doing it. At this point I've pretty much accepted that the batteries I have (Dyness A48100) will not be part of my future setup, and neither will my Solis. But I dont want to make any more mistakes!



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,027 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    At what rate are you looking to charge batteries at?

    You could go for the big sunsync + a standard inverter(s)



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  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,933 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    It's only a matter of time before Sofar upgrade to a newer version of the ME3000 that will output at a much higher rate, I'd stand still for a while ELM and see how year 1 goes with the solar

    My stuff for sale on Adverts inc. EDDI, hot water cylinder, roof rails...

    Public Profile active ads for slave1 (adverts.ie)



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