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Heat Pumps - post here.

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  • Registered Users Posts: 11,395 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    So potentially dumb question here


    I've been watching a lot of Heat Geeks and the content so far is brilliant. But there's one video which is bugging me a bit, the one about leaving the heating on all the time


    So I get the basic idea, a heat pump is most efficient when it's running for a long time at steady load


    You set the flow temp low enough that it's at maximum efficiency when running, but not too low that your house is cold. You use the thermostats as heat limiters instead, and use a setback temperature at night to ensure the house doesn't overheat


    Here's my issue with that, how can that work best with night rates?

    On one hand, nighttime is generally colder so the heat pump will probably be running more at night anyway. Using a lower setting at night would save energy and is cheaper to run anyway, so that makes sense

    However, you'd have a fairly constant drip feed of electricity consumption during the day when it's expensive.

    This doesn't seem like the best approach, so I'm wondering if it's worth sacrificing some efficiency to heat up the house in the early morning on night rate and minimise the daytime electricity consumption

    Anyone have any thoughts on this?

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Yeah, but most people wouldnt have the control to be able to do that. Been thinking about it a good bit. And how I would control a heat pump to maximise efficiency. Although that will all depend on how much control I have of said heatpump. (some sort of modbus control is a must), Possibly sacrifice some efficiency to heat the buffer up more on night rate and then back off during the day, only doing as needed...


    Suppose the setback temperature could kick in earlier than you think , maybe 9-10pm. as the house would retain heat, But have it kick in early in the morning so it gets a good run getting the house back up to temperature.

    Overnight my house is maintained at 18c, This is my hall,

    Hall (bungalow) is boosted to 21 in the evening, but all the doors off it are usually open




  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Oh.. found this much more useful graph..




  • Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭redmagic68


    I’ve tried both ways but find night time heating more economical. You use more kWh but pay substantially less for it.

    set back during the day a few degrees, evening boost as demanded by stats then set back until night rate.

    8.4 kwp east/west Louth,6kw sofar, 9.6kwh batt



  • Registered Users Posts: 11,395 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    I think most heat pumps have fairly decent controllers, although they might not make great provision for external control


    Mine for example can have different temperature settings at certain times on the downstairs controller (upstairs is a dumb mechanical thermostat unfortunately)

    Normally it's just set to 19C all the time but maybe I'll try setting it to 21C around 5am for a couple of hours to heat the house up and hopefully it just sips energy for the day


    It's slightly moot because I'll be getting a battery soon as well as solar panels. But if I can stop the heat pump from drawing a lot of power then it'll fit into the solar generation curve more easily

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



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  • Registered Users Posts: 11,395 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    Do you find the house gets uncomfortably warm at night?

    Personally I prefer a cooler bedroom for sleeping in, but my wife apparently sleeps in a sauna

    I'd be concerned setting the downstairs to heat up in the morning would make the upstairs a sauna

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭redmagic68


    we have Breton slab floors so the zones tend to work as zones. You can heat the main downstairs living area without the greenhouse upstairs.

    biggest issue we have is glass. You can set the heat to get to the temp you want by morning. Then you get a really sunny day and it can push it up 4-5c more. Easily enough solved we just open a door to a hallway that leads to the stairs for an hour and it dissipates through the house but not ideal.

    your wife and mine must be related. Everything is 2 degrees higher than it should be. I end up going around in a t shirt and getting the look….


    8.4 kwp east/west Louth,6kw sofar, 9.6kwh batt



  • Registered Users Posts: 11,395 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    Only a t-shirt? Spicy 😉

    I've got a similar problem with glass, the back bedrooms get really warm in the sun but the thermostats are on the north side of the house


    The TRVs kind of work to keep the temp under control, but not always

    Keeping the house at a balanced temperature is pretty tricky I find, downstairs often ends up a lot cooler than the upstairs

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭redmagic68


    Yeah ours is reversed the glass is in the living area where you generally have it a bit warmer then if it does lose the run of itself we open the door and the heat will rise to the bedrooms.

    it is tricky to get things perfect though especially if you get big fluctuations in the weather and outside temp. We’re pretty airtight but on an exposed location so wind creates a vacuum. After the cold weather of last week i’m finding the house hot but I suppose that’s the slab releasing the latent heat that has built up over the previous week.

    Still better than the neighbour who ran out of oil a few days back and just got his delivery yesterday. Needless to say he’s borrowed a few of my T-shirts, your right though @the_amazing_raisin i should buy pants, could end global warming 😂

    8.4 kwp east/west Louth,6kw sofar, 9.6kwh batt



  • Registered Users Posts: 239 ✭✭mehico


    Trying to figure out heat pump temperature settings at the moment. The display is showing:

    T out begin 23°

    T return base 20°

    T curve gradient 27.5%

    T return target 29.1°

    T return real 30.1°

    The pump switched itself off when it reached 30.1° but should it switch itself off when it reached target of 29.1°?

    Do the temperature settings seem ok otherwise?

    An engineer checked the unit a few weeks ago and the outdoor temperature sensor was faulty but has since been repaired.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,789 ✭✭✭PowerToWait


    My Thermia A2W is set to 18 with stats set to 20. I was away for Christmas and checked today. Operation time for heating was 97 hours since 24th December, 16 hours a day. To my mind this seems quite a lot.

    House is insulated to high degree, brand new, airtightness test was just under 1.8.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Operational hours is meaningless figure.

    How much power was actually used?



  • Registered Users Posts: 11,395 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    It's fine for it to be operating for a long time if it's drawing low power, that's generally the way heat pumps are intended to operate

    If you're away for a couple of days then consider using the holiday mode if there is one to set back the temperature to a lower level. Most heat pumps will warm the house back up on the final day of holiday mode so it isn't too cold when you arrive home

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,789 ✭✭✭PowerToWait


    Yeah I’m fine if it’s not eating power. But how to know how much power it’s using?



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,789 ✭✭✭PowerToWait




  • Registered Users Posts: 11,395 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    It's depends, some heat pumps can tell you how much energy they're using

    Otherwise you'll need to invest in a CT clamp energy monitor. You can either put it on the heat pump supply, the house supply (in which case you'll have to deduct the house usage) or both, if you want to see everything

    I'd recommend getting a monitor that has some logging capabilities, I've used the open energy monitor but there's other options

    There's also an open heat pump monitor which can tell you your COP, but at €600 it's probably not worth it unless you're a total nerd (confession time, I am a total nerd 😂)

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users Posts: 165 ✭✭stickman1019


    Lads one more for the Ecodan users found this unit cost 125 and its pretty decent.

     

     

    Also allows the melcloud Mitsubishi app on your phone which show energy usage and allows full control via phone ect.

    installation & setup is very straight forward and do-able for the DIY'er.

     

    I purchased from IITC but they dont have a web link below has links to manual and setup etc..

     

    https://www.rvr.ie/products/melcloud-wi-fi-interace



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,743 ✭✭✭podge3


    I think it's a bit cheaper from Amazon:

    https://www.amazon.it/gp/aw/d/B09WH99JTL/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I agree it's a great addition to the HP system. It really should come as standard, especially considering the HP cost.



  • Registered Users Posts: 789 ✭✭✭staples7


    I insisted on it from the beginning, the heat pump provider posted it out to me and I installed it. 5 years later couldn't be without it. From monitoring to looking at usage reports etc its a godsend for the Ecodan



  • Registered Users Posts: 789 ✭✭✭staples7


    I don't care what anyone says for me it works way better running HP on night rate. My first 2 years 'were always on' and the last 3 were 'timed'. Bills were reduced a lot with the house always as warm. There is a bit of tinkering to get the set-up right. I do adjust if there's a very cold period but all done easily via the app.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 12,120 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    … heat up the house in the early morning on night rate and minimise the daytime electricity consumption

    I more or less do this.

    About 2hrs before night rate kicks in I set the HP back a few degrees so that it’s not running coming up to night rate.

    During night rate I have it set to boost a few degrees and also heat the hot water.

    Then at the end of night rate it steps back again but does still run during the day as needed, but obviously not as much.

    You need to tweak it to suit you and your house. There is no one perfect solution/setting.

    The key things would be to realise that UFH takes hours to react so any changes need to be measured over days and you need to avoid large temp swings in your house.



  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,422 Mod ✭✭✭✭igCorcaigh


    Hi,

    I'm wondering if someone can help me with my query.

    I have recently moved into a newly build apartment block with an A2 BER rating. It's a 2-bed apartment on the 4th floor with an air-to water pump for heating and hot water. No gas. I keep the setpoint for the heating quite low, 17 to 19C. I very rarely need to adjust it, and never turn it to OFF. I find that the apartment retains the heat very well, and there are no obvious draughts.

    The electricity bill for my first month was €360. The next bill is projected to be around €300 for the month. This is with Electric Ireland Home Electric + SST plan.

    These bills are approx. 3 times higher than my older apartment with just electric heaters and no central heating. Other tenants in the apartment block are experiencing similarly high bills.

    Could there be some fault with the heating system to result in such high bills? The typical daily energy usage pattern (from Electric Ireland's website) is a big spike in the morning (when very little power is being used by appliances) and another in the evening.

    Could an air lock be the culprit?

    TIA

    Post edited by igCorcaigh on


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,395 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    Unfortunately my setup is a bit more basic. I've only a basic mechanical thermostat upstairs, downstairs is controlled by the smart thermostat for the heat pump 😬

    I think the trick might be to set the downstairs to a lower temp at night and then raise it up to 21C around 5am. With the heat from the hallway radiator going up the stairs then it should warm the upstairs as well

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,341 ✭✭✭Nelbert


    Are you sure they are monthly and not bi monthly amounts? If they are monthly they are more than my bill for the house. Do you have any energy monitoring in place? Depending on the heat pump it may have a screen you can see usage on or even better an app to see. That'll tell you if it's the culprit.

    Also with the weather that we had December is going to be expensive for everyone so don't read too much in to that.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,370 ✭✭✭kabakuyu


    Check with the rest of the occupants to see if they all have the same experience, if so, there may be a problem but also remember that electricity costs have increased massively.

    My son and his neighbour who live in identical A1 rated homes with the exact same number of occupants and age profile have very different bills, son was charged for 700 units (bi monthly oct/nov) and neighbour was looking at a bill for 2100, they set up whatsapp group for small estate (26 houses) and have noted that about 15% of residents are experiencing very high bills, they are waiting for developer to get back to them.



  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,422 Mod ✭✭✭✭igCorcaigh


    I'm sure it's monthly :(

    There is no app for the heat pump; just an icon on the screen to indicate if it's currently active (it rarely is).

    The €360 bill was actually for November, when we had very mild weather; and the €300 one will be for the very cold month of December. I have probably been keeping the setpoint deliberately low in December in light of the first bill!



  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,422 Mod ✭✭✭✭igCorcaigh


    Yes, we have a WhatsApp group for the residents. Some are getting very high bills; one person in particular had a monthly bill of €700, but they had their setpoint turned up high at 24C.

    Some others are getting very low bills, and as my setpoint is at the lowest it can go, there's not much more tweaking I can do. I won't be able to afford paying €300 pm.

    I know the charge for energy has increased a lot, but not by 300%. It seems that something must be wrong to me, but I'm not knowledgeable enough about these things to figure it out.

    The landlord said they'd send some engineers around in at some point, but I'm not hopeful for a resolution!



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,341 ✭✭✭Nelbert


    If it's rarely active then it's less likely to be the culprit unless the unit is faulty and the immersion heater is what's actually being used to heat both the central heating and hot water.... But that's unlikely given it's similar for others.....

    What type of meter have you got? If it's a smart meter there's two things to note 1. You could be on a really bad tariff for your usage (could be true regardless of meter) and 2. If it's a smart meter you may be able to see your usage in half hour blocks and identify what's going on based on time.


    The other thing with apartments is if you are using a tumble dryer a lot and it's not one of the newer heat pump based ones.... Getting a new dryer is high on my 2023 to do list energy wise. They use a lot of energy.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    To help narrow things down a bit. Quantify things.

    How come you get a monthly bill?

    What is your actual unit use?

    Sounds like you have a smart meter, what is your unit rates?

    What was the unit rates from your old place?.

    To put things into perspective my 2020-2021 unit rates were 14c day/7 c night

    The rates for your plan is now 44day, 47peak and 23 night.

    I agree 300/m is a lot. Just need to get more info than "it's more than my last place"

    Does your new place feel warmer? Is it bigger?



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  • Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭redmagic68


    You can check a few thinks out yourself.

    take a meter reading when the heat pump is off. Set it off for a few hours and take another reading. Work out your base load without the heat pump. Your heatpump should have a load of between 1.5kwh and 4kwh depending on the function hot water or heating. If you have it cycling low and slow it should use about 2kwh I’d estimate.

    if something other than the heatpump is pulling kwh hours you can figure it out that way. An energy monitor might be worth while also with a ct clamp on the consumer unit giving you a live output of what’s being consumed. If you have the ability to fit this safely or have a spark do it if not I don’t recommend you take any chances with electricity

    if you do a search here you’ll get some recommendations for a monitor.

    8.4 kwp east/west Louth,6kw sofar, 9.6kwh batt



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